Canada: Data and narratives not available from 2011. Visit alpineclubofcanada.ca/services/safety/index.html for information on the Alpine Club of Canada’s safety program.United States: We have created a new section in ANAM called “Know the Ropes: ...

  Before Mount McKinley was first climbed in 1913, two expeditions made false claims for the honor. In 1906 Dr. Frederick Cook reported that his fast, light expedition had taken eight days to reach “the top of the continent.” Shortly after Cook...

Yosemite’s Last StandThe defense of the heritageby John Middendorf“Among all of the debates affecting America’s national parks, the most enduring— and most intense—is where to draw the line between preservation and use.’’—from the opening line of ...

Dinosaur Tower, Peshastin Pinnacles. A new route on the east wall of the north edge of the tower was done last spring by Don Claunch, Fred Beckey, and Frank Tarvur. This short climb is fifth class, with the exception of one bolt on the blank secti...

Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1985 with membership at 1000. Over 300 members participated in one of the various instructional courses, the mountaineering camps, or the foreign expeditions that were one to four weeks ...

Sfingi di Ghiaccio, by Alberto M. de Agostini, S.D.B. Turin: I.L.T.E., 1958. 235 pages. 104 photographs, of which 15 are color; 4 maps. Price 3,500 Italian lire.Monte Italia, Monte Sarmiento are two ice sphinxes rising 7000 and 7900 feet out of th...

Taulliraju’s Southwest FaceMichael A. Fowler, Alpine Climbing GroupOUR TEAM WAS composed of Michael B. Morrison, Christopher Watts, Anita McKee, Michael F. O’Brien, Dr. John English, John Zangwill and me. A two-day approach brought us in early May...

AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. As we moved closer to the end of the 20th century, 1998 gave us some disconcerting glimpses of what climbers probably will encounter in the century to come. Facing the challenges of increasing commercialization of our n...

Colorado Climbing Notes, 1935Though perhaps not quite so brilliant as the 1933 and 1934 seasons, the 1935 climbing season in Colorado witnessed some important work and several first ascents. Mountaineers were again active in the San Juan, and of e...

Teebone Ridge traverse. This little-traveled piece of country lying ten miles northeast of Marblemount was fully traversed from one end to the other this past Labor Day weekend by our group of The Mountaineers from Everett. The party consisted of ...

A Survey of Andean AscentsPart II. Chile and ArgentinaEvelio Echevarría C.Included in this work are the Andean areas that have registered the oldest high mountain ascents in the history of mountaineering, dating back to before the 16th century, wh...

Mount Fay’s North FacePeter T. CarmanUPON first sight the best choice was obvious: the bulging, convex non-gulley of ice which flowed from the summit ridge of Mount Fay to the glacier below. What a strange sight — not a gulley of ice, rather a fro...

Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. We were four in the Kichatnas as usual, but while this was my third trip, it was the first for Bryan Becker, Rob Milne, and Andy Tuthill. The mood in Talkeetna when we arrived was dismal. Several parties had b...

The Mountain EnvironmentThe year in garbageby Brent Bishop and Chris NaumannEach year, climbers push the limit of what previously was thought possible in the mountains. Eight thousand-meter peaks, once considered the domain of only a handful of el...

Kangtega’s Northeast ButtressJay SmithMY OVERBOOTS WERE rapidly disintegrating before my eyes. No matter how I kicked and stomped, no warmth was generated to thaw the freezing Lincoln Logs where my toes were supposed to be.“My goddamn toes are fre...

LEIGH N. ORTENBURGER1929-1991On October 19, 1991, Leigh N. Ortenburger, who had survived over 40 years of active mountaineering in the world’s greatest mountain ranges, died in the firestorm that swept the Oakland, California hills and destroyed 3...

FALL, PROTECTION FAILURE, OFF ROUTE—California, Yosemite Valley. On April 30, Suzanne Carne (31) and John Carne (30) parked near Rixon’s Pinnacle at 7 a.m. and walked to what they thought was Lower Brother — Southwest Arrete. Mr. Carne did not thi...

Attempt on Yerupajá. The unsuccessful attempt of the Scottish Expedition of 1964 to Yerupajá (A.A.J., 1965, 12:2 p. 447) left two of its members anxious to prove a route that seemed feasible. The 1966 party consisted of Dez Hadlum, Ian Howell and ...

PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Tuolumne Meadows, Stately Pleasure DomeOn June 7, 1996, Shannon Meredith, 25, and Dennis Papa decided to climb “West Country”, 5.7 PG, on Stately Pleasure Dome in Tuolumne Meadows. Shann...

Retinal Haemorrhage at AltitudeJohn R. Sutton, M.B., B.S., M.R.A.C.P., F.R.C.P.(C)*, Gary W. Gray, M.D., Ph.D., Murray McFadden, M.D., A.C. Peter Powles, M.B., B.S., F.R.A.C.P., F.R.C.P.(C) and Charles S. Houston, M.D.oN MOUNT LOGAN, Canada’s high...