Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Mountains of Starbird Ridge, Purcells

Mountains of Starbird Ridge, Purcells. In August Kenneth and Corky Rinehart, Bob and Peg West, Dave West (12), Scott West (8) and Sandy Rinehart (5) visited the mountains of the Starbird Ridge between Forster and Horsethief creeks. We traveled by ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Indian Creek

Indian Creek. New routes continue to be established at a fast pace on the miles of Wingate Sandstone walls of Indian Creek. Details of approach may be researched in the Desert Rock climbing guide or information gained by writing to Eric Bjømstad, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mt. Bradley, Season of the Sun; Mt. Church, Memorial Gate; Mt. Johnson, The Ladder Tube

Mt. Bradley, Season of the Sun; Mt. Church, Memorial Gate; Mt. Johnson, The Ladder Tube. Japanese climbers Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato, and Tatsuro Yamada established three impressive new routes in the Ruth Gorge in April and early May. Season ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, The Bride

The Bride. In a hidden canyon west of Moab stands a 300-foot sandstone tower known locally as “The Bride”, since its profile does resemble a lady and her bouquet. In the fall of 1970 Eric Bjørnstad and I climbed closely beneath the bouquet but did...


Accident Reports ANAM
HAPE, Party Separated, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

HAPE, PARTY SEPARTEDAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 28 at 0745, John Tatzalaff (39) of Team Springer Zissou requested NPS assistance at the 14,200-foot camp because he was experiencing difficulty breathing. A thorough examination by Pa...


Book Reviews AAJ
On the Hills of the North

On the Hills of the North, by J. Hubert Walker. Square 8vo., xv, 182 pp., 24 photographic illustrations, 6 maps. London, 1948: Oliver and Boyd. Price, 15/-.Mr. Walker’s new book describes his ramblings and scramblings among the highlands of the no...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse Shar Tragedy

Lhotse Shar Tragedy. The ten-man Spanish team’s attempt on the south face of Lhotse Shar ended abruptly when on October 30 Pedro Alonso fell 2400 meters to the bottom of the face from ten meters below the site for Camp IV at 7400 meters. He and th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Itsoc Huanca, Dominguerismo Vertical

Itsoc Huanca, Dominguerismo Vertical. The wall is situated in the Quebrada Rurec. To get there obtain transport to Olleros. Here you can get burros to carry gear to base camp, four hours’ walk from town. Three hours into the hike the walls become ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Panch Chuli III, Attempt

Panch Chuli III, Attempt. The virgin Panch Chuli III (6314m) was attempted from May-June by a young IMF team selected from all over India. The leader, S. Bhattacharya, was an experienced mountaineer from Delhi. They attempted the peak from the eas...


Book Reviews AAJ
Trekking in the Himalayas

Trekking in the Himalayas. Stan Armington. Third Revised Edition. Lonely Planet Publications, South Yarra, Australia, 1982. 218 pages, black and white illustrations, maps, bibliography. $6.95.Contrary to the implication of the title, this book is ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kashmir, Nun and Kun

Nun and Kun. Of these twin peaks, Nun (23,410 feet), first climbed by French Mme Claude Kogan and Swiss Pierre Vittoz in 1953, is much more difficult than Kun (22,250 feet) first climbed in 1914. They were climbed this year by an expedition of the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Fortaleza, Northwest Spur, Paine Group, 1989

Fortaleza, Northwest Spur, Paine Group, 1989. Roberto Cazan, Fabio Bristot and I made a new route on the northwest spur of Fortaleza (2754 meters, 9038 feet). We were in the region from October 28 to November 30, 1989, generally with bad weather a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres Del Paine National Park, Central Tower of Paine, South African Route

Central Tower of Paine, South African Route. A team of six Mountain Club of South Africa members—Alard Hüfner, Mark Seuring, Michael Mason, Dermot Brogan, Marianne Pretorius, and Voitec Modrzewski—spent December 2003 and January 2004 climbing the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Sur, South Face Attempt

Huandoy Sur, South Face Attempt. Stevie Docherty, Sam Crymble, Ian Nicholson, Don Higgins, Ian Singleton and I as leader arrived in the Blanca on June 27. Camp I on the easterly moraine below the face was stocked by June 29. On the 30th we made an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine—Chilean Patagonia, Punta Herron Attempt via West Buttress

Punta Herron Attempt via West Buttress. Andrea Sarchi, Odoardo Ravizza and I arrived at Base Camp at Piedra del Fraile on October 25. Despite bad weather between October 28 and November 2, we managed two carries to the Paso Marconi at 1500 meters....


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Karjiang, Kula Kangri Group

Karjiang, Kula Kangri Group. This peak lies just northeast of Kula Kangri. Under the leadership of Nobuhiro Shingo, six climbers of the Himalayan Association of Japan traveled from Lhasa to Monda. They headed up the glacier on September 9. At firs...


In Memoriam ANAM
Washington, Stuart Range, Mt. Stuart

Washington, Stuart Range, Mt. Stuart. On 30 June Charles K. Rothgeb (23) was leading four inexperienced persons on a climb near the base of Mt. Stuart. During the climb one of the members lost his ice-axe so Rothgeb gave him his. Later as they cro...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment—No Ice Axe, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO ICE AXColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn July 14, 1991, at 1530, Mark Horton (30) slipped while traversing the snowfield at the base of the Cable Route on the North Face of Longs Peak. Horton...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Southwest Desert Soft Rock Climbing

Southwest Desert Soft Rock Climbing. Among the main attractions of the desert around Moab are the rich reds and blacks and blues of hematite and manganese, the alpenglow at day’s end, the play of light and shadow on angular rock, and the lure of t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Quebec, Val David, Mount King

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Quebec, Val David, Mount KingOn September 25,1993, F.C. (30), with seven years’ climbing experience, and F.D. (33) with two years experience, were attempting “The Crown,” a medium difficult route on Mount King. ...