The Royal Geographical Society has awarded the Gill Memorial to Capt. F. Spencer Chapman, author of Helvellyn to Himalaya, for his exploration of high peaks in Sikkim and Tibet, in particular for his exploit in climbing Chomolhari on his way back ...
Everest Summer Attempts. The North Col attempt by John Roskelley and me was unsuccessful. Although healthy and well acclimatized, we never got a shot at the summit. The monsoon arrived late and was said to have been the worst in 40 years. Despite ...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Goat MountainOn September 14 M.D.L.C. was climbing with D. C. on a route called Twilight Zone when he was hit in the right hand by rockfall. His thumb was badly crushed and almost amputated. D. C. called Kanan...
Everest. The majority of notable events on worlds highest mountain took place on the Tibetan side. See that section of the Journal for more details.
Mount Owen, Southeast Face. It is surprising that there have been only two climbs on the face between the south ridge and the regular Koven couloir of Mount Owen, especially since this is the most accessible portion of the mountain. On August 18 A...
After 14 years of rock climbing, I have finally been moved to written comment.What prompted this? One of the most important events I have witnessed during my years of climbing, an event which was completed on February 4, 1971, when Royal Robbins a...
Makalu II or Kangshungtse. The five-member Japanese team from Chiba University, led by Hidekai Yoshinaga, was attempting the northwest ridge. Akira Murata and Sonam Sherpa reached 24,450 feet from Camp IV on this 25,066-foot peak on May 15, but th...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. The Annual Banquet for the Cascade Section was held at the Mountaineers’ Club Room on February 15, 1994 with guest speaker Seattle’s own Ed Viesturs, the only American to have climbed the three highest peaks of the world. ...
Huandoy Norte, North Face. Matt Kerns, Tom Hargis, Hal Tompkins and I left the Quebrada Parón for the north face of Huandoy Norte. Tompkins came down with a high fever at our bivouac at 19,000 feet. His condition did not improve after a day of res...
Mr. Bradford Washburn led a party of one other Harvard student, three Appalachian Mountain Club hut boys and a former Rainier guide to Alaska in an attempt on Mt. Fairweather this last summer. The expedition was unfortunate in being unable to effe...
Redwall Peak, East Face. Not far north of Grave Lake in the southern Wind River Range is an outstanding small peak with a spectacular 1000-foot east face, quite reddish in color. Layton Kor and I made its first ascent on September 6, climbing the ...
Keeler Needle, Australopithecus. Australopithecus was established by Ammon McNeely and Kevin Conti on October 9, 1999, after a week of establishing base camp and eight days on the wall. The VI A3+ route begins left of the Crimson Wall. They report...
FALL ON SNOW/ICEWashingtonTwo climbers requesting a rescue for a third team member on Liberty Ridge contacted Mount Rainier National Park early on June 16th. The injured climber, Talbot (60), had severely broken his lower leg during a 200-foot fal...
Mount Terror, North Face, Left Side. From July 14 to 17, I soloed a new route on the north face of Mount Terror. The climb follows the prominent buttress left of the original 1961 route. The approach was made in two days via Stettattle Ridge and u...
Stok Kangri Region, Ladakh Himalaya. In 1976 Gretel Johnson and I spent the summer in the Ladakh Himalaya, exploring route possibilities in the Thadjiwas valley south of Sonamarg and in the Stok Kangri region near Leh. We both climbed Katzim Pahal...
Kwangde Shar, Northeast Spur, Attempt. It was reported that a British team led by Phil Wicken had hoped to make an ascent of Kwangde Nup (6035m), but unstable weather forced them to change their objective to the northeast spur of Kwangde Shar. The...
Liberty Bell Mountain, North Face Direct. After an unsuccessful attempt on the Red Gully last year, the stage was set on August 8 for Jim Yoder, Bob Vaughn and me to push up one of the last unclimbed faces on Liberty Bell. Third-classing up left o...
Middle Triple Peak, Kichatna Mountains, Attempt. In July Roy Kligfield, David Loeks and I were landed on the Tatina Glacier. Our main objective was the unclimbed Middle Triple Peak (8835 feet). Unfortunately we did not attempt the peak by the rout...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Grace FallsOn January 2, 1983, Chris Waydeveld (19) and Royal Laybourn had topped out on the 35-meter, near-vertical, Grace Falls in Rocky Mountain National Park. They were on low-angle water ic...
P 21,750, near Sri Kailas, Gangotri, 1979. After failing to climb Sri Kailas, an Indian expedition ascended P 21,750 (6629 meters), which lies west of it. In September 1979 Ranvir Singh, leader and high-altitude porters Narayan Singh and Gopal Sin...