Mount Everest—The Best Writing and Pictures from Seventy Years of Endeavour. Edited by Peter Gillman with a forward by Sir Edmund Hillary. Little Brown & Co. Boston, 1993. $35.What has been prominently missing in the profuse literature of the ...

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry Spire (2)— On August 24, a climbing party led by Sterling Neale (22) of the Exum Mountaineering Concession, Janet Crane (18), Tom Lightburn (12), Steve Howse (17), and John Manley (17), had completed a ...

Mount Temple, North Face Direct. A climber driving the Banff-Jasper highway will not miss the huge north face of Mount Temple. To Jeff Lowe and me the center rib, attempted by Abrons, Eberl and Roberts in 1969 (A.A.J., 1970, 17:1, pp. 82-3), which...

FALLING ROCK, HYPOTHERMIA, BAD WEATHERAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LouisOn November 20, 1980, after a late start and a somewhat slow ascent, Steve Langley and two companions, Lorene and Jay, reached the summit of Mount Louis, where they met Hel...

Aconcagua, South Face. We arrived at Plaza de Mulaz on December 26. We made our first attempt on the normal route up to c.6500 meters on December 31, but returned because of storms and deteriorating weather. On January 3,1997, we summited via the ...

To the Unknown Mountain by Wilfrid Noyce. London: Heineman, 1963. xii and 183 pages, 19 photographs. Price 21 s.Trivor (25,370 feet), above the Gharesa Glacier in the western Karakorum, was Noyce’s unknown mountain and a worthy find. Perhaps from ...

Latok II Attempt, and Ascents of Ogre Thumb and Spaldang. It was reported that a German expedition powered by the bold young climber Alexander Huber reached a height of 6600 meters on Latok 2 before turning back in the face of unsettled weather an...

East Peak, Mount Logan. During June and July Albert Nickerson, Jr., Leif Patterson, Edward Carman, Jr., Walter Gove and I made the third ascent of the east ridge of the east peak of Mount Logan. All except Gove are members of the Harvard Mountaine...

Castle Rock Spire. In September TM Herbert and Tom Frost did a new route on the face of Castle Rock Spire. The climb follows a crack system that eventually connects with the original route about two-thirds of the way up the face. The first two pit...

Vallunaraju Group, Cordillera Blanca. On July 28 seven Americans left Huaraz and climbed up the Quebrada Mullaca to establish Base Camp at Lake Mullaca. That same afternoon they began the reconnaissance of the lower icefall. On the next morning Sa...

Hummingbird Ridge’s Thunderbird VariationDavid Nettle, UnaffiliatedThe Logan Effect: A phenomenon whereby everything you see is actually four times longer, steeper and more difficult than it appears. See also: The Hummingbird Ridge.STANDING BY THE...

The High Sierra: Wilderness of Light. Photography by Claude Fiddler. Foreword by David Brower. Introduction by Steve Roper. Chronicle Books, San Francisco. Hardcover, 132 pages, color and black and white photography. $25.00.The High Sierra: Wilder...

Bandako*, Central Hindu Kush. During the summer months, Michael and Ruth Wortis, Sandra Merrihue, Steve Jervis, Bob Jahn and I drove across Europe and the Near East and climbed in Iran and Afghanistan. After a leisurely, five-week drive from Paris...

Good Neighbor Peak, southeast ridge and clarification; Mt. Vancouver, St. Elias Range, Alaska and Canada. Paul Barry and I climbed a new route on the southeast face of Good Neighbor Peak (15,700') during May 18-21. We also completed the two-mile t...

Putha Hiunchuli. An expedition led by Nicolaas van Lookern Campagne climbed Putha Hiunchuli (7246 meters, 23,775 feet) by the south ridge to the south face, much the same route as that climbed in 1972, 1978 and 1979. Netherlander Dr. Rinus Lamers,...

The Shining Mountain: Two Men on Changabang’s West Wall, by Peter Boardman, with material by Joe Tasker. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1978. 192 pages, 15 black-and-white photos, 12 color plates, 2 sketches. Price £5.95.The climb that may well be ...

Upernivik Island, West Greenland. Eight members of the University of St. Andrews, Scotland, spent seven and a half weeks on the compact mountainous island of Upernivik at 71 °N in the Umanak region of west Greenland. The island had been visited pr...

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Ouray, Ouray Ice ParkJohn Ohlson (61) was leading Pic O’ the Vic (WI 4) in the Ouray Ice Park. He led up to a stance at a cave—about 20 feet up, and placed an ice screw. He then cont...

First on the Rope, by Roger Frison-Roche. Translated by Janet Adam Smith. 246 pages. New York: Prentice-Hall, 1950. Price, $2.75.Written by a mountaineer and skier who is thoroughly familiar with the region of Chamonix, First on the Rope has alrea...

FALL ON SNOW—INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, OFF ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATEDCalifornia, High Sierra, Mount Ritter, Southeast GlacierOn August 9 the body of Otto Loenneker was found by Mono County Mountain Search and Rescue at the base of the Southeast Glacier on...