Feature Article AAJ
Ascents Along the Athabaska

Ascents Along the AthabaskaFrancis S. NorthTHE highway from Jasper toward Lake Louise runs southward through the jackpine forests of the Athabaska River, past the great falls with rainbows in its spray, and on to the Sun- wapta Canyon. Near Milepo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mt. Waddington, Possible Variation and Bushwhack from the Sea

Mt. Waddington, possible variation and bushwhack from the sea. On July 28 Patrick Farrell and I began the approach to Mt. Waddington following the Mundays’ first 1926 attempt via Coola Creek. This journey proved to be unusual in several ways. Firs...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Gronau Nunatakker, First Ascents

Gronau Nunatakker, first ascents. In August three undergraduates from Oxford University, Chris Abbott, Ben Spencer, and I, flew by ski-equipped plane to a glacier in the Gronau Nunatakker Range and made first ascents in largely unexplored territor...


Feature Article AAJ
Three Expeditions in Southern Chile

  Boating and Climbing in Skyring Waters THE art of mountaineering evolves rapidly; the achievement of the innovating climber is rapidly built upon. When the Nose of El Capitan was first climbed, nineteen years ago, it was an epic involving hu...

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| Published 1976 | Author Jack Miller


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, South Georgia, Mt. Roots, First Ascent

Mt. Roots, First Ascent. Approximately 850 nautical miles east-southeast of the Falkland Islands, the island of South Georgia is approximately 100 miles long and 30 miles wide and lies just outside the Antarctic Circle. A wet, cold, and hostile cl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Venezuela, Amuri Tepui, Amurita

Amurí Tepui, Amurita. From September 13-19 we did our most adventurous big-wall expedition yet, making the all- free first ascent of Amurita (E7 6b), on the south face of Amurí Tepui. The 10- pitch route has sustained 5.12 climbing alongside a rem...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Miscommunication—Inadequate Belay, Climbers Unknown to Each Other, Maine, Bald Mountain, Shag Crag, Tightrope

FALL ON ROCK, MISCOMMUNICATION-INADEQUATE BELAY, CLIMBERS UNKNOWN TO EACH OTHERMaine, Bald Mountain, Shag Crag, TightropeJed Piatt (29) of Dover, N.H., was in a group of experienced climbers when he fell from the route Tightrope (12d) on Bald Moun...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Morro Rock, Near Morro Bay

California: (4) Morro Rock, near Morro Bay. On 9 October 1950 Pvt. Miles T. Armstrong, member of an Army medical detachment at Camp Roberts, and two other soldiers narrowly escaped death while attempting to scale precipitous Morro Rock. Armstrong ...


Feature Article ANAM
Mt. Rainier Curtis Ridge Operation

Mt. Rainier Curtis Ridge Operation. On 13 June a party composed of Gary Fredrickson (27), Glen Fredrickson (20), George Dockery (37), Carl Moore (34), and Pete Sandstedt (22), began an ascent of Curtis Ridge via St. Elmo’s Pass. On Sunday 15 June ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Serkhe Khollu, Chamaka South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real

From our base camp on the glimmering shores of Sirki Khota Lake, Robert Rauch, Stefan Berger, and I spotted a logical line on the southwest face of 5,546m Serkhe Khollu, which is the main summit of the Serranias Serkhe and Murillo, situated betw...

| Published 2010 | Author Florian Hill, Austria-Germany


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Umarata and Other Peaks,1984 and 1985

Umarata and Other Peaks, 1984 and 1985. Important climbs have been belatedly filed with the Federación de Andinismo de Chile. In August 1984, 30 climbers, including four women, climbed in the Nevados de Quimsachata, in Lauca National Park on the C...


Feature Article AAJ
Mount Seattle—From Sea to Summit

Mount Seattle—From Sea to SummitDonald J. Liska“When I saw the look on the pilot’s face, I really got scared.” Herb Staley spoke for all of us after our wild ride under the great tidewater ice-cliffs of the Hubbard Glacier. Our converted World-War...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Homathko, Essex, and Queen Bess, Coast Range

Homathko, Essex, and Queen Bess, Coast Range. This fine area at the northern tip of the Homathko Snowfield had attracted us since we read the late Don Munday’s Canadian Alpine Journal account of his first ascent in 1942 of Mt. Queen Bess. He refer...


Feature Article AAJ
Cambridge Climbing

Cambridge ClimbingDavid Allan Robertson, Jr.IN 1657 one Joshua Poole, M.A., of Clare Hall, Cambridge, published his English Parnassus: Or a Help to English Poesie, which included “an ample treasury of phrases, and elegant expressions” properly app...


Editorials And Prefaces ANAM
Accidents in North American Mountaineering Twenty-Fifth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club

This is the twenty-fifth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and the twelfth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada.Data from accidents not previously reported have been obtained and the statistical tables have...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley, Various Ascents

Nangma Valley, Various Ascents. A team of six climbers (Mike Turner, Steve Mayers, Elfyn Jones, Di Lampard, Louise Thomas and Libby Peter) from North Wales, U.K., visited the Nangma Valley in the Hushe region of the Karakoram from July 25 to Augus...


Accident Reports ANAM
"Interfering with Agency Function" — Unnecessary Helicopter Evacuation, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

INTERFERING WITH AGENCY FUNCTION" – UNNECESSARY HELICOPTER EVACUATIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 1st, a female Lithuanian climber (47) was air evacuated from the 14,200-foot camp on Denali’s West Buttress. NPS rangers made numerou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Pucahirca Central and Pucaranra, Cordillera Blanca

Pucahirca Central and Pucaranra, Cordillera Blanca. The Franco-Swiss Expedition to the Andes 1957—Mlle. Françoise Birkigt, Mlle. Renée Colliard, Mme. Annette Lambert and M. Raymond Lambert, of Geneva; Mme. Claude Kogan, of Nice; Jean Lamy, of Lyon...


Feature Article AAJ
North Ridge of Mount Hess

MOUNT Hess is 50 miles due south of home, Fairbanks, and is visible during clear weather. Its unclimbed north ridge runs straight toward us, beckoning our crampons. In May Steve Hackett, Tom Hillis and I set off. Horace Black landed us in his Su...

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| Published 1976 | Author Daniel L. Osborne


Feature Article AAJ
The Spanish Version of the K2 Tragedy

The Spanish Version of the K2 Tragedyby Xavier EguskitzaBased on the statements provided and corroborated by JOSÉ GARCÉSand LORENZO ORTAS, August 27, 1995A seven-strong expedition from the Spanish region of Aragón was formed by leader José (Pepe)...