FALL ON ICE, EQUIPMENT FAILURE—CARABINER, FALL ON ICEColorado, Vail, Rigid InseminatorOn December 7, Jim Amidon (31) and Joe Crotty (30), both experienced ice climbers, set out to ice climb in the Designator area. Around 2:00 PM Jim Amidon fell 85...
Tomurty, far eastern Tien Shan, first ascent. The National Defense Academy Alpine Club of Japan organized an expedition to the Tien Shan to commemorate its 50th anniversary. The objectives were to climb Tomurty (4,886m), the highest virgin peak in...
JOHN ANDREW McCOWN, II 1918-1945John McCown was born in Philadelphia on July 4th, 1918. He was educated at Wm. Penn Charter School, from which he graduated in 1936, having been a three-letter man as well as a member of the Senior Honorary Society....
California, Tahquitz Rock. On November 4, John Suppe (18), Stuart White (19), and John Bahr (18) were climbing on Tahquitz Rock. Suppe was leader; he had had five seasons general mountaineering experience, including one summer of rock climbing in ...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn the morning of July 5 at approximately 0100 the “Death March 2000” expedition left basecamp to begin a climb of Mount McKinley. At 0330 Kelly Thomas (35) fell into a cr...
Mt. Manse (6,355m), Mt. God Tang (6,013m), Mt. Ye Zi (6,046m), Mt. Lazio Tagh (6,045m), first ascents. Our Finnish Kun Lun Expedition set off with a donkey caravan from a Tadjik village on August 4, for a 24-day journey to attempt virgin peaks of ...
Middle Triple Peak Attempt, P 8055 and P 6000, Kichatna Mountains. Chuck Comstock, John Harpole and I were landed on July 5 by Jay Hudson on the Caldwell Glacier in a gutsy landing with our first objective, the east buttress of Middle Triple Peak,...
This is the seventeenth report of the Safety Committee and the fourth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. Data from accidents that occurred in 1962 and not previously reported have been included in the tabular material. An accident from...
Summit Chief Mountain, north face. On April 18 Colin Haley and I climbed a new snow and ice route (IV AI3) on Summit Chief Mountain’s north face. The route climbs roughly 2,000' up the center of the face, connecting ramps between two major snowfie...
Numerous attempts had been made on the Southwest or "Wishbone Arête” of Mt. Robson since the first try in 1913. In that year the Swiss guide Walter Schauffelberger led Basil S. Darling and H. H. Prouty to within 400 feet of the summit, but they we...
Winter Ice Climbs in the Canadian RockiesPeter Zvengrowski, Calgary Mountain ClubTHE winter of 1973-74 proved to be a very active one for climbing new waterfalls in the Canadian Rockies. The standards of free climbing were pushed farther than in t...
HAPE, HACE, AMSAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 4, the “Joyful Expedition,” led by Chun Byung-Tai, was flown to basecamp on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier by Hudson Air Service. The eight man Korean expedition began their as...
North of DhaulagiriJohn S. HumphreysSo Dhaulagiri has finally been climbed, and of the seventeen 26,000ers in the vast arc of the Karakoram and Great Himalaya the number of untouched summits has been reduced to two. As the four of us sat on a high...
Canada: This was the year of the avalanche. In two incidents involving backcountry skiers 14 people died. Although these incidents did not involve climbers, the effect will be felt by the climbing community for years to come. Parks Canada is curre...
PrefaceOver the course of H. Adams Carter's 35-year tenure, The American Alpine Journal evolved as one might expect from an editor who was an expert skier, accomplished climber, and mountain scholar. Fluent in five languages, Ad relentlessly pursu...
Mt. Johnson, Tree House of Horror and Force Boyle. Zach Lee and I established the Tree House of Horror (12 pitches, IV 5.11) in winter 2007-08 with assistance from Bryan Bird and Jeff Richerds. This route is equipped with chains and can be rapped ...
BARRY C. BISHOP1932-1994Noted climber, scientist and scholar Barry C. Bishop was killed in a one-car accident on September 24, 1994. He lost control of his car outside of Pocatello, Idaho.When I try to paint a picture of my father, I am at a loss;...
Gasherbrum IV. A very strong Italian party under the leadership of Riccardo Cassin overcame extremely great climbing difficulties and made the first ascent of Gasherbrum IV (26,000 feet). On August 6 Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri left Camp VI at ...
THE MOUNTAIN. Getting there is never part of the fun. The car is crammed with gear, the occupants tucked in as afterthoughts. The urge to climb smoulders somewhere beneath a numbing apathy and the dust of the road. Perhaps the Alaska Highway ...
Caucasus, 1984. David Broadhead and I spent three weeks in the Baksan valley of the central Caucasus in the summer of 1984. We made ascents of Ushba North by its north ridge, the north face of Ullu-Kara-Tau, a traverse of Dongus-Orun and Nakra, an...