FALL ON ROCK—CAUSE UNKNOWN, CLIMBING ALONEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton, Owen-Spaulding RouteOn June 23 at 0825, Amer Beslagic (38) obtained a back-country camping permit at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station for a campsite at the Mor...

Arch Canyon, Bridges National Monument. In April, 1984 Tim Coats, Gary Rugerra and Scott Baxter made the first ascent of Dream Speaker, two pitches on the west face (II, 5.11). The 250-foot Cedar Mesa sandstone tower lies five miles up Arch Canyon...

Alaska, Mt. McKinley. It was at our 17,200-foot camp that we had trouble with the camp stove (optimus). On this day it was 16°F below zero inside the snow cave, I removed my silk snow gloves to try to fix the stove. This operation took approximate...

Manaslu, Northeast Face Attempt in Winter. A little after midday on December 22 my brother Alan and I were climbing carefully upwards at 23,000 feet on the northeast slope of Manaslu. Winds of more than 80 mph kept throwing us sideways into the wa...

Pumori. Pere Rodés, Joan Alarcón and I reached the summit of Pumori on May 5, having left Base Camp two days before. Base Camp was at 5260 meters and we made only one camp at 6250 meters on the climb. During the descent we had to bivouac in an ice...

Tsaranoro Massif, Various Activity. Last summer three different teams visited the Tsaranoro Massif in the Andringitra National Park. All the visiting teams, except Kurt Albert and Bernd Arnold, who had first visited the area some years before, use...

Volcán Juriques, 1987. In September, 1987, nine women led by Julia Meza made a 12-day trip to the Licancabur district. On the 16th, all nine climbed Volcán Juriques (5704 meters, 18,713 feet) on the Chilean-Bolivian border.Evelio Echevarría

FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL DEVICE DETACHED California, Yosemite ValleyAt 2209 on September 19, 1988, Alksander Lekic, of Celje, Yugoslavia, reported that Dragan Rogic (28) of Zagreb, Yugoslavia, had been killed in a fall to the ground from the Aquarian ...

Peaks in Southern Cordillera Apolobamba. Ken Findlay, Les Holbert, Pamela Holt, Ray Dimmock, Ian Wadsworth, Sue Cooper, Ashley Hardwell and I visited the Cordillera Apolobamba, where we were able to locate a southern area which seems to have had n...

Satopanth. Our group of nine Austrians and a Swiss had first hoped to climb Satopanth (7075 meters, 23,212 feet) by its northwest ridge. We failed when five members fell sick at the beginning of the climbing period. On September 14, Klaus Reininge...

Grand Central Tower, Peshastin Pinnacles. The central chimney of the east face was climbed in April by Don Claunch, Ed Cooper, and Galen McBee. A variety of wooden wedges, wide angle pitons, bolts, and regular pitons were required on this class 5 ...

Mount Goode, East Buttress. One of the most magnificent alpine faces of the northern Cascades, Mount Goode’s northeast wall sweeps 3000 feet to its granite summit. In 1954 John Parrott and I climbed the ice apron and steep slabs of the direct nort...

A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. This Section met four times during the year, starting with a dinner meeting in April at the sprawling Phipps mansion in Denver. Gerry and Barbara Roach had just returned from an around-the-world junket, a part of wh...

Meru Shark Fin, East Face Attempt. Britons Paul Pritchard, Johnny Dawes, Noel Craine and I from South Africa tackled the technical and demanding east face of Meru Shark Fin (6660 meters, 21,850 feet) via a new route. In early September, we were ha...

FALL ON SNOW, FALLING INTO CREVASSE—SNOW SLIDE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Oregon, Mount Hood, Cooper SpurOn July 23, 1994, about 1330, a party of four was descending the Cooper Spur route when at least one individual lost his foot...

Alberto de Agostino, Swiss missionary and author of the fine volume, Andes Patigonicos (1941), now in our library, has ascended the highest peak (3600 m.) of the St. Lawrence massif in the Patagonian Andes.

Stewart Valley, Baffin Island. An expedition of the Ottawa and Montreal Sections of the Alpine Club of Canada spent three weeks climbing in the Stewart valley at N 71° 03'. The party consisted of K. O’Connell and E. Whalley, leaders, and J.A.R. Bl...

Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face. Kim Schmitz and I made the first winter ascent of this route in February. We were surprised that this most prominent of High Sierra wall climbs had been left alone in winter. Not only was it selected as one of the “F...

Valley of the Gods, Various Activity. In 1999, with various partners, I visited the Valley of the Gods in southeastern Utah five times. While the bulk of my time was spent racing around Valley of the Gods Loop Road like a maniac (trying to set a n...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—Wyoming, The Tetons. On August 4, Allan Eddy (28) and Ken Mayers were climbing the Southwest Ridge of Symmetry Spire. At 2:30 p.m. Eddy fell from about 90 feet above the beginning of the “nose” pitch where Ken M...