Death of Pilot Mike Ivers. Mike Ivers, owner of Gulf Air Taxi and the pilot for most of the expeditions in this area, died in a plane crash on July 29. He was attempting to haul rafting parties and their gear out of Glacier Bay National Park. He w...
Dhaulagiri Winter Attempt by Spaniards. The Koreans agreed to share the normal northeast-ridge route with the Spanish Catalans. The highest point reached by this expedition was 7000 meters, where leader Enric Lucas and Joan Carlos Griso bivouacked...
Akher-Chagh, Koh-e-Tez, Shayoz Zom. A Polish expedition, led by Ryszard Koziol, first made several acclimatization climbs in the Salang massif near the Salang Pass road. They then entered the Urgunt-e-Bala valley, which had been explored for the f...
K2 Attempt. On May 10, Pete Athans, Steve Matous, Andrew Lapkass, my brother Alan and I arrived in Islamabad. Athans and I began travelling north on the Karakoram Highway with 70 prepacked loads in a privately hired local bus on May 17. Meanwhile ...
Kodar Range, Stolb (2,850m), west pillar. Russians Bashkirtsev, Davydenko, Glazunov, Pedenko, and Veretenin, from the Siberian city of Irkutsk, made the first ascent of the pillar forming the left edge of the west face of Stolb, the southwest summ...
Gongga Shan. Hans Engl, Heinz Zembsch and I as leader made up the expedition, which left Germany on September 12 and returned on October 27. On October 6 all three members reached the summit of Gongga Shan (Minya Konka) via the northwest ridge. We...
Nanga Parbat 1953, by Dr. Karl M. Herrligkoffer. 192 pages, with 78 black-and-white photographs, 9 colored photographs, maps and plans. München: J. F. Lehmanns Verlag, 1954. Price, D. M. 16.80.Nanga Parbat, by Karl M. Herrligkoffer, translated fro...
Lautaro. Eric Jones, Mick Coffey, the Argentine Ernesto O’Reilly, and I crossed the southern Patagonian Icecap, covering a total distance of 300 miles on ice and taking 52 days in all. During this time Cerro Lautaro (11,089 feet) was climbed for t...
Makalu Attempt. Our members included Americans Peter Getzels, Brad Johnson, Peter Carse, Dr. James States, Brian Cox and me as leader and Britons Adrian and Alan Burgess. Our objective was a light-weight ascent of the northwest-ridge first-ascent ...
Sierra de la Culata, New Routes. This range situated north of Mérida offers an array of climbs on good rock. The peaks vary from 4200 to 4762 meters. In 1994, we opened two new routes. On April 17, Eduardo Márquez and I climbed the northeast spur ...
NO EXPERIENCE - SOLO CLIMBING, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT FALL ON ROCKKentucky, Red River Gorge, BeachcomberOn February 13, Shaun Wilhoite (28) was camping in the area with a large group of friends. The group hiked to Pebble Beach around 2:00 p.m. Upon ...
Mount Deception, Northeast Ridge*. Our goal was the southeast ridge, a long double-cor-niced tight-rope walk that had rudely turned back one strong party. Jeff Benowitz and I flew onto the Eldridge Glacier just south of the Denali Park wilderness ...
Everest, East (Fantasy) Ridge attempt. The only expedition that did not attempt the standard Everest routes on the north and south side during the spring was a team of 10 Indian climbers and five Nepalese Sherpas led by Santosh Yadav, the first wo...
Changtse, Southeast Face. We completed the second American ascent of Changtse by a route previously climbed by Ed Webster solo (see above), the southeast face. We also made a significant achievement in using the Gamow Bag as a treatment for cerebr...
Saser Kangri II (7,518m), southwest face. Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the world’s second highest unclimbed independent mountain (attempts on the highest, Gangkar Puensum in Bhutan, are banne...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, BELAY FAILURE Alberta, Chinaman’s PeakOn August 22, B.P. (20) and M.K. attempted to climb the usual Northeast Face of Chinaman's Peak when something went wrong, probably on the third or fou...
Meru Central (Shark’s Fin), east face, attempt. The Korea Meru Peak Expedition comprised Kim Sae-jung and Cho U-ryeong from the Extreme Leader Alpine Club, Lee Sang-woo and Jang Seon-tae from the Bong-ahm Alpine Club, and Park Young-sik from the G...
Agua Negra Region, Central Andes. In January, Horacio Sánchez went to this important zone with many virgin peaks. He ascended solo a peak (ca. 5100-5200 m) between the Paso de Agua Negra (4779 m) and the Glaciar de Agua Negra, a little north of th...
Mt. Kerkeslin: First Ascent by W. Face and First Traverse. The second ascent of Mt. Kerkeslin (9790 ft.) was made on 8 July 1946, from about Milepost 22 on the Jasper-Banff highway, about one mile and a half S. of Athabaska Falls. E. R. Gibson and...
Porcelain Wall, Sky Is Falling. In late July, Eric Kohl and I established a new line on the left side of the Porcelain Wall. We named the route Sky Is Falling (VI 5.10+ A?, 15 pitches, 73 holes) due to the amount of loose rock regularly shed from ...