Fitz Roy Region, 1975. We can add a few names and details to the preliminary report given in A.A.J., 1975 on page 188. The Swiss who made a one-day ascent from the col of the American route on Fitz Roy in early 1975 were Hans Peter Trachsel, Paul ...
Rattlesnake Rock, Tumwater Canyon. This wall, located behind Piton Tower, was the scene of two new routes during the summer. The “Marlboro” route, climbed by Ed Cooper and Galen McBee started up almost behind Piton Tower, and proved to be medium-h...
Gasherbrum II. As in previous years, a large number of expeditions had Gasherbrum II (8035 meters, 26,362 feet) as their objective. Only three of them reached the summit. A six-member Swiss expedition was led by Nicole Niquille, the only woman of ...
Mukerbeh. An Indian all-woman expedition climbed Mukerbeh (19,910 feet). From Camp III on May 29 six women and two Sherpas climbed to the nearby summit of Manali Peak (18,600 feet). On May 30 two of the women, Thrity Birdy and Bharati Banerjee, an...
"Halleluja Peak.” This 7150-foot peak in Cascade Pass country, a mile southeast of Trapper Lake, has occasionally been referred to as the west peak of Glory Mountain, but the first ascent party of Ursula Wiener, Jim Whitcomb, Bob Briggs and me on ...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. Section activity continues to center around the four dinner meetings which are held quarterly. Chairman Carmie Dafoe gave an account of his expedition to Aconcagua, with an interesting analysis by Dr. Shults of the Universi...
Shivling Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition to Shivling ended in tragedy. Mlle Odile Loncle fell 400 meters to her death. It happened at 5700 meters while we were moving up fixed rope between Camps II and III. We immediately gave up our attempt.Y...
Sierra Nevada de Cocuy, Southern Peaks. I used the upper valley of La Cueva to tackle several peaks in the southern half of this range. On December 23, 16-year-old Mateo López, a local hillman, and I, reached a point some 120 feet below the top of...
FALL FROM RAPPEL, UNCLIPPED FROM SAFETY LINE, NO HARD HAT Oregon, Camp BaldwinOn July 6, 1994, Adam Clark (17) was teaching a group of Boy Scouts—about 17 of them—how to rappel. According to the report, he unclipped from his safety line to adjust ...
South AmericaOur fellow-member, Mr. Anderson Bakewell, has compiled from the American Geographical Society’s Millionth Map, a list of the major peaks of Hispanic America. Names, locations, altitudes, climbing data and references make this a valuab...
Virginia Glacier Expedition. In 1967, the writer led the Cape Dyer Arctic-Alpine Expedition into an unexplored area of arctic mountains west of Cape Dyer on the Cumberland Peninsula of Baffin Island (see AAJ, CAJ, 1968). At that time we approached...
Slick Rock, Crystal Basin. Placerville climbers have been doing new routes on Slick Rock this year (consult the USGS 15-foot map for Robbs Peak). To find the area, leave Highway 50 at Riverton via Ice House Road. A bit north of Jones Place, a road...
Organ Rock, Pilon’s Pillar. On Organ Rock, Pilon’s Pillar (V A5a 5.10) was soloed in November with three bolts. The route starts up Pele Nubian Sacrifice and goes straight up the overhanging east pillar. Although the crux has a 60-to 65-foot runou...
FALLING ROCK, INEXPERIENCE—Wyoming, The Tetons. On August 4, about 11:30 p.m. Doug Calloway (17) was climbing the Owen Spalding Route on the Grand Teton a short distance above the Upper Saddle. A rock was dislodged by his partner’s rope while the ...
Further note on Mankial expedition. A Pakistani group was in the Rosh Gol area before going to Mankial. The Briton Norman Norris, who was with them, climbed P 19,594 feet, five miles southeast of Saragarh Peak.Trevor H. Braham, Himalayan Club
FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS—GLISSADING New Hampshire, Frankenstein Cliff and Gulf of SlidesAt Frankenstein a woman was doing a seated glissade from just below Standard Route. She caught a crampon and was flipped face down for the remainder of the slide...
Castle Peak, North Face. Significantly peaking just over one mile south of the boundary from British Columbia, Castle Peak has an impressive 1500-foot north face. This feature, standing in firm granitic stock, displays three prominent buttresses, ...
FALL ON ROCK, HARNESS FAILURE California, Yosemite ValleyOn April 15, Sonny Cubillo (28) and David Wilson (19) were climbing the direct route on Reed Pinnacle. Cubillo was leading the second pitch, and was approximately 60 feet above his belayer w...
Longs Peak, Diamond. On August 7, 1967 Rick Petillo and I started a route between the Curving Vine and Diamond 7 routes on Longs Peak. Heat forced us to leave three leads fixed and return for water. On August 11 we returned to finish the route, wh...
Changping Valley, Thorn, first ascent; Falcon, first ascent; Camel Peak, southwest face, attempt. In October Josh Butson and I ventured to the Quonglai mountains, inspired by conversations with Charlie Fowler, Keith Brown, and information lifted f...