Dhaulagiri Attempt. Five French climbers led by James Merel climbed only to 6100 meters on Dhaulagiri’s normal northeast-ridge route. They had frequent heavy snowfall. All five members and one Sherpa reached the high point on October 5 and then ab...
Jurm I and II. The Jurm valley was the last valley in this part of the Hindu Kush to be visited by climbing expeditions. The highest peaks, Jurm I and II, lie near Awal. The mountains climbed by the Italians from Padua mostly lay on the ridge betw...
Apsarasas, Mamostong and Saser Kangri I and IV. Three Indian expeditions to the Eastern Karakoram have been successful, but we have been unable to get details. An Indian Army expedition placed six of its members on the summit of Apsarasas on July ...
Fisht (2,867m), west face. One of the most important first ascents in the Caucasus during 2009 was a direct route up the middle of the west face of Fisht, the most westerly snow-and-ice peak in the range. To enter the 27th Russian Championships fo...
Anyemaqen II. In 1960 a party of eight Chinese surveyors made the ascent of a peak in the Anyemaqen group the altitude of which they at first grossly overstated. It has later been determined that the highest summit (6282 meters) lies several miles...
K2 Troisieme expedition americaine au Karakorum. Charles S. Houston, M.D., Robert H. Bates and George I. Bell. 100 pages, including 70 full-page photographs, 10 in color and a 20-page resumé by Charles S. Houston, M.D. Paris: Arthaud 1954.This pap...
Cerro Mariano Moreno and Cerro Pirámide, Southern Patagonian Icecap. In the summer of 1972-3 Argentines Jorge Aikes and Eduardo Rodríguez and the Germans Martin Schiessler and Günther Sturm made two new routes, the south and the southwest ridges, ...
Makalu Attempt. The great west face of Makalu had defeated top-class alpinists with its extreme difficulty at very high altitude. This season, a well- publicized, massively financed group of eight British members and one Australian under the leade...
Uummanarsuaq, Pamiagdluk, South Greenland. The southern tip of Greenland, the world’s fifth largest island, is called Uummanarsuaq by the native Inuit. Close to storm-bound Kap Farvel soar bold granite peaks with smooth walls that rival the mounta...
INADEQUATE BELAY, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATIdaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Twist and CrawlTwist and Crawl is about a 35-39-meter route. The leader (53) of the route, clipped draws to the anchor chains and was to be lowered off. The belayer’...
Wedge Peak, North Face. Ian MacRae and I started walking, in the rain, into Mount Wedge on August 1. Early on August 3 we set up base in the Wedge Cwm. It was no longer raining; now, it was snowing. It continued to snow until the 6th. Early on Aug...
Everest, first descent by paraglider. First to reach the summit on May 22 were Bertrand “Zébulon” Roche and his wife Clair Bernier-Roche. This was the second time for Bertrand on the summit of Everest. In October 1990, when he was 17 years old, he...
Changtse, Southeast Face, 1986.I made an unreported ascent of Changtse in 1986 up a new route, the southeast face. This was the fourth ascent of the mountain and the first American one. I first tried a new line on the right of the southeast face o...
Junai Kangri, west face and south ridge. On August 22 Francisco Ferrero, Juan G. Hernandez, Jose C. Llamas, and I, from Spain, with Phurbu Bhutia and Dawa Sherpa from India, made the first ascent of a 6,017m peak we have named Junai Kangri.Our goa...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED Alberta, Mount Temple, Greenwood/Locke RouteOn August 20, a party of two attempted the Greenwood/Locke Route (V, 5.9 A1). The two got a predawn start and reached the rock pitches above the upper icefield in good time...
Pts 6,132m and 6,154m, first ascents. These previously unclimbed mountains are situated at the head of the Armasong Nala, which drains into the Baspa River. A 13-member team from West Bengal led by N. Prasad Rao traveled via Sangla, Chhitkul, and ...
Cerro Zorrita, Sierra Almeida. On March 2, Edward T. Hobaugh and I departed Antofagasta with Chilean Gaston Oyarzun providing logistics and transportation. We established a base camp near the Llullaillaco massif in Quebrada de las Zorritas at an e...
Glacial Geology and the Pleistocene Epoch, by Richard Foster Flint. 598 pages, with six plates, 88 text figures and 30 tables. New York: John Wiley and Sons, 1947. $6.00.This is primarily a textbook on Pleistocene glaciation. Richard F. Flint, Pro...
Purcell Range of British Columbia. The Department of Lands, Victoria, B. C., issued in 1943 a new map which has just become available to the public: 4G Windermere (two miles to one inch, uncontoured). To mountaineers its chief interest will be in ...
Reticent Wall, Solo Ascent. Tomaž Humar (Slovenia) climbed El Capitan’s Reticent Wall (VI 5.9 A5, 850m) solo, finishing on October 26 after 15 days on the route. In Slovenia, in the Kamnik Alps, Tomaz has put up several demanding technical routes ...