Kohe Lakhsh, Wakhan. An expedition from Southern France (Lyon and Nice) was led by Louis Dubost, who was accompanied by his wife, Bernard Denjoy and his wife, Paul Gendre and his wife, Mlle Suzanne Valentini, Mlle Bernard, Louis Gevril, Jacques Br...
On October 26 Zach Lee and I did a new route on the west face of the peak north of, and connected to, Bridge Mountain, The peak is officially unnamed but known locally as Sub Peak or Confluence Peak. We dubbed our effort Satan’s Waitin’, aft...
Longs Peak, East Face, La Dolce Vita. During three days in June, the famous Italian Renato Casarotto and I established a new route on the east face of Longs Peak. Starting from Mills Glacier, we took a line up the huge right-facing comer system ju...
Phunangma. The first ascent of Phunangma (22,272 feet) in Ladakh was made on August 4 by Captain F. C. Bahaduri, Naik Satish Kumar Thapa, Naik Sonam Tashi, Hav S. S. Bhandari and two Sherpas. The peak was climbed again on August 5 by Captain N. K....
First Across the Roof of the World, Traverse of the Himalaya. Graeme Dingle, Chewang Tashi and I formed the traverse party with other Indian and New Zealand members as a support team with which we rendezvoused every three or four weeks. Far more t...
National DefenceIn December, 1940, the cooperation of the American Alpine Club was invited by the United States Army. So far this cooperation has consisted of supplying the Army with information concerning equipment to be used in mountainous regio...
Gasherbrum II, First Iranian Ascent. Gasherbrum II was the first 8000-meter peak organized and climbed independently by Iranians. The ascent was via the normal route from the south in Pakistan. We set up four camps on the ascent: Base Camp (5200m)...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Buttress of Chasm View. In May Rob Kiesel and I braved the regular descent gully, north of the northern rim of Chasm View. We crossed the river to the foot of the northern buttress of the south rim of Chasm View...
Donjek Glacier, first ascents. On June 1 Jonathon Wakefield and I flew into the Donjek Glacier, where we made first ascents of eight peaks around the East Donjek Glacier, a spur off the head of the main Donjek. Geoff Hornby and I had researched th...
LOSS OF CONTROL–VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Little TahomaOn August 20, 1983, a party of three, Bryan Harris (leader), Susan Harris (28) and Tom Anderson registered to climb Little Tahoma via the Fryingpan Glacier. They took the tra...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. Our members began their 1961 activities by following on snowshoes the historic 30-mile trail over Crow Pass in January. Lack of snow made travel difficult, and the seven took 3½ days to complete the journey. An April...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face, Alpine-Style Attempt. Our European expedition was composed of Patrick Bérault, Michel Lassagne, Laurent Chevalier, André Muller and me, French; Laurent Cosson and Heinz Steinkötter, Italians; and Bernd Neubaur, Michael Ho...
Peaks near Cerro Torre and San Lorenzo, 1987. An Italian expedition made a number of excellent ascents in the Fitz Roy-Cerro Torre region and near San Lorenzo in late 1987. The members were Davide Brighenti, Monica Malgarotto, Alberto Rampini, Ste...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE BELAYColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn August 3, 1985, I was on Mt. Meeker with two friends when the following happened. I had begun the last pitches of the Flying Buttress which consisted of ap...
Tuctubamba, Middle Earth. Clay Wadman and I tried the prominent couloir on the right, climbing ca 300 meters and reaching the rock band before rappelling the line of ascent. We found conditions that varied from one-inch ice over rock to perfect né...
(b) OTHER ACCIDENTSArizona: Catalina Mountains. On 30 October 1949 Wally Lundbohm (20), of Tuscon, was rescued from a tiny ledge 1000 feet above the head of Pima Canyon. He had been stranded on the six-foot-wide, 20-foot-long ledge overnight and h...
Dan Beard, West-Face Couloir. In May, two women living in Alaska, Carol Snetsinger and Dori McDannold, climbed Dan Beard (3127 meters, 10,260 feet) by a new route above the Ruth Amphitheater, the prominent couloir in the west face.
California, Yosemite National Park. On 13 November John Michael Wrightman (20) left Yosemite Lodge on a drizzly afternoon in hopes of shortcutting up to the base of the upper Yosemite Falls. He walked along the base of Sunnyside Bench below the fa...
On February 9 Kate Rutherford, Brittany Griffith, Jonathan Thesenga, and I arrived in the small village of Yunek, below Acopan (Akopan) Tepui. The local Pemon people were happy to see us and eager to porter a few loads, and soon we were on our way...
Mount St. Elias Ascents and Attempts. A number of expeditions entered the St. Elias Mountains via Yakutat. Eleven expeditions with 43 people climbed in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park or Glacier Bay National Park. Only four groups and ten climber...