Cable Mountain, Hammer and Sickle. In September, Ron Ramonde and I did the first ascent of Cable Mountain in Zion. The route climbs the thin, diagonaling seam on the left side of the wall, summitting about 100 feet left of the cable ruins. It’s se...
Ganchenpo, north face, attempt. Bruno Burr, Oskar Wachter, and I left Kathmandu on May 6 and after a five-day trek through the Langtang Valley established base camp at 4400m in the Nyangtsa Chui Valley. We hoped to climb the north face of Ganchemp...
Nameless Tower, Trango Towers. Our five-person international climbing team was composed of Frenchwoman Catherine Destivelle, Swiss Lucien Abbé, and Americans Jeff Lowe, Jim Bridwell and me, with additional filming support from Paul Sharp, Veroniqu...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount IndefatigableOn September 5, Kananaskis Country rangers were informed that someone had fallen down the East Face of Mt. Indefatigable (2670 meters) from the ridge joining its two peaks. A helico...
Dhaulagiri II, south face to east ridge, attempt. The seven-man Czech expedition led by Pavel Trefil chose the very rarely visited Dhaulagiri II (7,751m) as its objective for pre-monsoon 2003, hoping to repeat the 1978 Japanese Route (summit reach...
Broad Peak. Our team consisted of David and Diana Dailey, Scott McKee, Nels Niemi, Paul Stevenson and me as leader. We arrived at Base Camp on July 1. We had three camps at 18,600, 21,600 and 23,900 feet. The weather was good enough to climb to th...
Appalachian Mountain Club. In 1948 the Appalachian Mountain Club continued its usual round of lectures, walks, ski trips, rock climbs, white water canoeing, etc. The longest trip scheduled during the year was an excursion to Glacier National Park....
Kampf um den Berg, by Robert Montis. 8 vo.; 239 pages, with 8 full-page illustrations, and numerous smaller drawings. Graz: Verlag Styria, 1937.The Gesellschaft Alpiner Bücherfreunde has chosen as its most recent offering a volume (Band 6, Die Deu...
British Mount Everest Medical Expedition. Some 75 people in all were members of our expedition, but only eight were allowed to climb in the Western Cwm. Dr. Charlie Hornsby and Dr. Roddy Kirkwood reached the summit of Everest on October 11, accomp...
Greenland Icecap, East to West Solo Crossing. Miroslav Jakes crossed the Greenland icecap solo from Johan Petersen Fjord on the east coast to the airport in Kangerlussuaq (Sondre Stromfjord) in the west. The route (ca. 600 kilometers) took him 30 ...
Kula, First Ascent. It was reported that Kula (a.k.a. Chalung, 6546m) was climbed for the first time by a 11-member Japanese expedition led by Tsunso Suziki. The team ascended the northwest ridge; eight climbers reached the summit on July 11, 1997...
Puscanturpa Group. Climbers from Varese led by Luigi Ossola made a new route on the northwest face of Puscanturpa Noroeste. They also climbed Puscanturpa Sur by its south ice face and Puscanturpa Central by its west face and south ridge. Because o...
Donnell Reservoir, Moonshadow, Stanislaus National Forest. A 1500-foot wall lies on the north side of Donnell Reservoir just off Highway 108. The unique approach to the wall requires a canoe and is about as close to sea-cliff climbing as one can g...
New Routes in Pinnacles National Monument. Lifeline follows an indistinct water chute on the Hand, about 20 feet right of the Salathé route. There are many bolts. (I, 5.10b.) Peregrine ascends in four pitches the farthest west and most massive wat...
Kamet. A 25-man expedition of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police led by Sohan Lal left Joshimath on April 10 and, hampered by snow, got to Base Camp at 15,550 feet on April 25. Camp I was set on April 29. Then came blizzards. As they moved to Camp III...
Previous History of Gunnbjørns Fjeld. James Lowther has been kind enough to supply us with further data about Gunnbjørns Fjeld. After Gino Watkins’ expedition of 1930-31 had spotted the peak, Martin Lindsay fixed its position in 1934 during his re...
Diran, Ascent. Adrian Burgess and Rob Ziegler made the first American ascent of Diran (23,838') on July 10. The mountain was climbed in alpine-style over three days; we climbed the final 4,800 feet in eight hours to summit at midday. Base Camp was...
Tilitso. Our expedition consisted of Max Jeanpierre, Michel Laurent, Roger Laot, Denis Jeanvoine, Dominique Moutel and me as leader. I give a word on our approach and return. We followed the classic route to Manang in seven days. It takes a couple...
Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca. Our party consisted of Ernest and Richard Hildner, Ernest Kuncl, and me. During a brief trip into Quebrada Ishinca we ascended two peaks, Ishinca (18,143 feet) on July 20, and Urus Este (18,012 feet) on July 23. A ...
Panwali Dwar. An Indian group from Bombay’s Pinnacle Club, led by P.B. Bodhane, made the second ascent of Panwali Dwar (6663 meters, 21,860 feet.) They climbed the southeast ridge, joining the 1980 Japanese first-ascent route on the summit ridge. ...