Mount Cooper, Southern Lakes Group, Selkirks. Two unsuccessful attempts were made during 1958 on unclimbed Mount Cooper (10,000 feet), the highest peak in the Southern Lakes Group of the Selkirks. The first attempt was made in late June by A.A.C. ...
K2, Ascent and Tragedy. Italian climber Lorenzo Mazzoleni, 30, died on July 29 in a fall from the Shoulder (8000 m) after having successfully climbed K2 via the Abruzzi. According to sources, Lorenzo, along with three others, reached the summit at...
Siulá Grande and Other Climbs. Simon Yates and I established Base Camp beneath the lake, Sarapoqocha, at 4500 meters after a two-day walk from the Cajatambo roadhead. Two days later, on May 17, we took an acclimatization climb on Rosario to 150 me...
Cordillera Real and the Cordillera de la Quimsa Cruz, Various Ascents. On June 1, the Salt Lake-based team of Ben Folsom, Steven Su, and Andy Gresh arrived in La Paz, Bolivia, intending to do lightweight ascents in the Cordillera Real and the Cord...
Aguja Guillaumet and Gorra Blanca. A seven-man, two-woman expedition of the Club Andino Bariloche, with Victor Krajcirick as leader, entered the Chalten (Fitzroy) massif by way of Piedra del Fraile, where they established Base Camp. Bad weather he...
RAPPEL FAILURE, OFF ROUTE, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE PROTECTION AND EQUIPMENT, FATIGUE, ILLNESSCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn April 23, 1984, about 1900 hours, Donald W. Barnett (39) took a fatal fall of approximately 50 meters from about mid-point of a...
Shisha Pangma. Reinhold Messner climbed his eighth 8000er during the pre-monsoon season. He and his fellow South-Tyrolean, Friedl Mutschlechner, reached the summit (8012 meters, 26,286 feet) from the Tibetan side. Also members of the expedition we...
“Naglishlamina Peak, ” Tordrillo Mountains. The last unclimbed Anchorage skyline peak exceeding 10,000 feet was finally ascended on April 5 in a seven-day expedition under perfect early-spring conditions. “Naglishlamina” is one of the five promine...
California, Eagle Scout Peak. On 19 July David Ogden (43) and David McCord (25) were making a traverse of a 45° snow slope which sun had not reached and which was still holding rather hard crust. McCord kicked steps as he had crampons. After trave...
Little El Capitan, Southern Wind River Range. In August, Jeff Alzner and I hiked 16 miles to climb a half dome marked on the map as Little El Capitan. The first day, we free-climbed two 5.10 pitches, fixed two ropes and rappelled off. The next day...
Bhagirathi II. The expedition of me Siegerland Section of the German Alpine Club (DAV) had ten members. Base Camp was at Nandanban at 4450 meters. For Bhagirathi II we established Camps I and II at 5050 and 5800 meters on May 15 and 18. The summit...
The Playground of Europe, by Leslie Stephen. 243 pages, 19 illustrations.My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus, by A. F. Mummery. 256 pages, 16 illustrations.Blackwell’s Mountaineering Library. Edited by H. E. G. Tyndale. Basil Blackwell, Oxford. The...
Mount Kimball. Mount Kimball (10,350 feet) was climbed for the second time in June via its north ridge, a new route, which had been attempted by Grace and Vin Hoeman and Fred Beckey in 1969. Doug Buchanan, Jerry Johnson and Ken Irving flew to Slat...
P 7450 (“Ivers Peak”) Ascent and Mount Orville Attempts, Fairweather Range. In 1991, Patrick Simmons and I flew with bush pilot Mike Ivers of Yukutat when we made an unsuccessful attempt to climb Mount Orville. In 1992, we were saddened to hear th...
Pumori, Southwest Ridge. The Internet contributed this spring to a new type of awkward situation concerning membership of an expedition. A Swiss, Markus Sofer, saw that a Canadian team was listed for an attempt on Everest’s neighbor Pumori, so he ...
Nun. Two Polish expeditions climbed Nun in 1987. Starting from the Shafat Glacier, they established four camps at 5300, 6150, 6550 and 6800 meters. On August 12, the summit was reached by leader Waclaw Otreba, Andrzej Rykaczewski, Bozena Bruzdowic...
Ama Dablam Attempts. An Australian-New Zealand expedition of six climbers led by Michael Groom failed in two tries on Ama Dablam. They got to 5700 meters on the northeast spur on April 26 and to 6740 meters on May 11 on the southwest route.Elizabe...
St. Elias Ski Traverse. From April 12 to May 13 Craig Patterson, Steve Darrow and I traversed the St. Elias Range. Our route followed the Tana Glacier onto the Bagley Icefield to the Seward Glacier, which flows between Mounts St. Elias and Logan. ...
Touch the Sky: The Needles in the Black Hills of South Dakota. Paul Piana. The American Alpine Club, New York, 1983. 304 pages, 48 black and white photographs, separate maps. $13.50.There was a time when the mountains were complicated, and a guide...
Zaalaisky Range, Sat Peak traverse. In July 2002, I led a team of Moscow climbers on several climbs in the western Zaalaisky Range (the Pamir), and the first full traverse of the Sat Peak massif. Because the western Zaalaisky Range is separated fr...