Lost Eagle Pinnacle, Wind River Range. From a campsite on Slide Lake, Rick Horn, Joe Larson, Dave Eland, Pat Paddon, and I made the first ascent of this 2000-foot pinnacle on July 30. We ascended by the easiest route we could find and this reached...
Mt. Victoria. First guideless traverse N. to S. peak. August 1, 1938. E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard. “Plains” to Lake Louise (12 hours).
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. In 1995 our section worked hard to improve communications both within the club and with non-members in the local climbing communities. Hosting the A.A.C. Annual Meeting last December in Oakland provided a perfect foc...
Mountaineering in the National Parks. Interest of the National Park Service in mountain climbing in Park areas has steadily increased. The responsibility of Park personnel in encouraging safe climbing and in carrying out rescues is now more clearl...
Pik Lenin, Pamir Mountains. After fifteen years of attempting to get permission, an Austrian expedition was finally allowed to leave for the Pamirs on July 21 under the joint leadership of Erich Vanis and Franz Huber. The other members were Karl K...
The members of the expedition were Edin Alikalfic, Mario Bago, Janez Benkovic, Željko Gobec, Branko Pusak and I as leader. We established Base Camp and Advance Base at 4620 and 5240 meters on October 6 and 10. In spite of bad weather in the next f...
Cerro Solo. After the Anglo-Swiss expedition to Cerro Torre, Eric Jones made in February a solo ascent of Cerro Solo in five hours.
Post-Monsoon in the Nepal Himalaya. In the post-monsoon in the Nepal Himalaya, the summer monsoon rains and snowfall continued throughout September and into early October, several weeks beyond the normal end of the rainy season, only to be followe...
EquipmentRawl-Drive Climbing Anchor. In recent years, some of the climbers in the Northwest have begun carrying and using rock anchors as standard equipment in rock climbing. Usually the anchors have been used either for safety or for direct aid i...
CLINTON M. KELLEY1913-1982Clint Kelley, 69, fell to his death June 20, 1982 while climbing with friends on Mount Shuskan. Clint had first climbed Shuskan in 1938 while working on his Ph.D. at the University of Washington. He had started climbing i...
Tirich Mir. Shunzo Masue led the 14-man Ishikawa Prefecture Section of the Japanese Alpine Club expedition. The notorious southwest ridge of Tirich Mir (25,290 feet) was their first objective, but because of avalanche danger they changed to the we...
Vinson Massif. During the southern 1990-1 winter, Pedro Nicolás and I made the first Spanish expedition to the Antarctic mountains to carry out geological research. We approached Vinson in the company of the Canadian Adventure Network, but we clim...
Trango Tower, Ascent of Southeast Face and Tragedy. A four-man Norwegian team climbed a very difficult new route on the southeast face of the main Trango Tower (6237 meters, 20,463 feet). It took them 21 days in unstable weather to reach the summi...
FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS—JUMPING CREVASSE Oregon, Mount HoodOn June 11, 1989, while descending from a climb of Mount Hood, a rope team of four Mazamas reached the bergschrund, about 3250 meters. At this time and location, the ’schrund was opened abo...
Mount Edith, Canadian Rockies. Horst von Hennig made the second ascent of a route on the southeast face of Mount Edith in the summer of 1956 with the guide, Hans Gmoser. The latter describes the route as follows: “Our route was just on the east fa...
Rufous Peak, Northwest Face. During a five-day trip into the Tchaikazan River valley in September, Steve Sheffield and I climbed a new snow-and-ice route on one of the more prominent peaks of the area, between Taseko and Chilko Lakes. After five h...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTMinnesota, Minnesota State ParkOn July 8, 1991, Nancy Czech (38) fell about 45 feet from a moderate rock climb in Minnesota State Park.“What she was climbing was not a difficult climb for her at all,” said Czech’...
AAC, South Central Section. The South Central Section held an annual meeting in Dallas, Texas, on October 16. The newly elected officers for 2000 are Andy Jones, chair; Mike Doyle, co-chair; and Gail Billings, treasurer. Mike Lewis will assist the...
On June 26, Bill Wright (45) and Tom Karpeichik (48) attempted to simulclimb 100 pitches in Eldorado Canyon (Eldo) in a day. At about 7:30 a.m. the climbers were on their 11th route/34th pitch on Redguard Route (5.8) when the higher climber fell a...
The Alps in 1864, by A. W. Moore. 2 vols., 8vo., pp. 524, with illustrations. Oxford: Blackwell, 1938. Price 10 s.Some of this material the writer has read at times, in the original volume of which these are a reprint. Assembled together, however,...