Cherskiy Mountains. Michael Doyle, Simon Inger, John Kentish and I were the first western climbers to visit the Cherskiy Mountains of the Sakha Republic (Yakutia) in northeast Siberia. They lie near the Arctic Circle 400 miles northwest of Magadan...
FALL ON SNOW, FALL INTO MOAT, CLIMBING UNROPED, LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, NO HARD HAT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEUtah, Mt. TimpanogosThis narrative and analysis will cover the accidents of both Richard Lambert, m.D., and Richard ...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR TOOL PLACEMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hidden FallsOn December 20, Ben Johnson (21) was leading Hidden Falls Left (I, WI, 3+) belayed by Krys Obrzut. Johnson climbed the ...
Arches National Park. Jeff Widen and Dawn Burke climbed the Heart of the Desert route, one pitch on Entrada sandstone in the Park Avenue area of the Courthouse Towers section of the park. When viewed from the Park Avenue parking area, the route is...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. On 16 June Jim Lathrop was lead man on a rope of three while descending the steep West Buttress wall. Much snow had accumulated during a bad storm. Travel was extremely slow in the hip deep and sometimes chest deep snow. He w...
Beaverhead Mountains, traverse. On August 12, 2003, I finished a 1,362-mile journey that included a traverse of the Rocky Mountains. The journey was completed in segments involving kayaking, hiking, climbing, and mountain biking. I began in Montan...
AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn the evening of June 15, 1982, a North Cascades Alpine School (NCAS) expedition of four and the Valley Mountaineers expedition of four were camped at the 3900-meter level on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. On ...
FALLS ON ROCKColorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Cruise RouteOn June 17 th, Zach Alberts (20) fell while leading a climb of the 5.10+ Cruise Route. Alberts was climbing about ten feet above his last piece of protection when he lo...
FALLING ROCKBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Sir Donald MeadowsOn August 22, 1983, seven climbers from an Alpine Club of Canada group based at the Wheeler Hut and a separate party of two Americans were camped in the meadows below the Sir Donal...
Huascaran Norte, Attempt and Tragedy. On July 12, Peruvian mountain guide Marco Perez and Duncan Elliot, a South African mountaineer, left Huaraz to climb the north face of Huascaran Norte (6654m). The chosen route for the climb was the Paragot Ro...
Manaslu, East Ridge Attempt. Five Austrians led by Wilfried Studer attempted to climb the unascended east ridge of Manaslu from the north. They established three high camps. Studer and Manfred Kessler reached 24,275 feet on October 7. Very deep sn...
Pumori. We climbed the normal southwest ridge route on Pumori. Climbing began on April 10 and on the 11th we set up Camp I at 5700 meters. There were no climbing problems in getting to Camp I but the route was threatened from the left (Kala Patar)...
In September, Italians Rolando Larcher, Marco Stemi, and Erik Svab established the 670-meter route Never the Same (V 5.13c/d A0) on the east face of Tsaranoro Atsimo. The 13 pitches of the route range from 35 to 60 meters each; 122 bolts were plac...
Quimsa Cruz. From May 28 to June 30, I carried out a solo reconnaissance of the Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz, south of Illimani. In a first campaign, I entered from Pongo by truck and explored the valleys of Pusi Cota, Coricam- pana and El Aguila at ...
Ice Climbing in Alaska. There is a growing interest in ice climbing in Alaska. Two areas have been getting most of the attention: Portage glacier and Thunderbird Falls. Terry Becker, Jim Hale, Gary Bocarde, Paul Denkewalter, and Peter Sennhauser h...
HvitLinje and other ascents. On November 25 Marius Olsen and I climbed a new ice line below and northeast of Poincenot. Hvit Linje (600m, WI5 85/90°) is visible from way out on the pampas as you approach Chalten by bus, the line melting down from ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Yosemite ValleyOn August 16, 1988, Mark Peebles (23) fell while leading the seventh pitch on the regular route of the Northwest face of Half Dome. After leading from the belay, he entered a thin crac...
Both Sides of the Pyrenees, by Bernard Newman. 8vo, 224 pages with index, sketch maps, and illustrations from photographs. London: Herbert Jenkins, 1952.A middle-aged Englishman has written pleasantly about his bicycle tour, starting from Pau and ...
Mazamas. The climbing program in the Mazamas continued its expansion as it has each year since the war. There were 770 individual ascents—more than any previous year, and no accidents. The club’s climbing school expanded to an average attendance o...
Huandoy Norte, Northeast Face. Our party consisted of Michel Parmentier, Hubert Moreno, Alain Node Langlois, Evelyne Lyons, Laurence Arnaud, Michel’s sister Poupy Parmentier and me. We established Base Camp on July 15 at the foot of the east glaci...