Leslie Stephen: His Thought and Character in Relation to his Time, by Noel Gilroy Annan. 342 pages, with 11 photographic illustrations. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1952. Price, $5.00.Mr. Annan, whose primary themes are indicated by...
Jatunhuma, West Face. On August 14 our expedition from the Brescia Section of the Italian Alpine Club from Hacienda Tinqui crossed the 16,650-foot Pacchanta Pass to place Base Camp on the shores of Ticllacocha at 15,750 feet. We established a high...
Located on the Qinghai-Ganshou border in central China, the Qilian (locally, the “Heavenly Mountains”) run northwest for some 800km from the town of Xining. The main range is split between northwestern and southeastern sections, though a separa...
Everest Diary, by John D. McCallum. Based on the diary of Lute Jerstad. Chicago: Follett Publishing Co. 213 pages + 32 pages of photographs. Price: $4.95.This book is written in a rather sensational style. We could not persuade either of two membe...
Mount Logan, First Ascent of Northwest Ridge. On May 28 Paul Kindree, John Howe, Reid Carter, John Wittmayer and I were flown to the westernmost cirque of the upper Logan Glacier. With 30 days’ food, climbing gear and 3000 feet of rope, we were le...
Winter Climbs. Thanks to prolonged spells of cold and unusually dry weather, a number of first winter climbs were possible during January and February. Most noteworthy was the ascent of Mount Index’s north peak by Dan Davis and Pat Callis, an effo...
Angmagssalik Region, East Greenland. Cormac Higgs, Colin Wootton and I arrived in Angmagssalik on July 20 where we met our sea freight. Our plan was to travel in our inflatable boat to the head of Kangertitivatsiaq Fjord, about 140 miles to the no...
Laila Peak, North Face Attempt. It was reported that a seven-member Italian expedition led by Oreste Forno failed in its attempt to make the first official ascent of Laila Peak (6096 meters). (High Mountain Sports 157)
Washington, Cascades, Granite Mountain. On March 25, Dr. Charles B. Andrews (35), and Donald J. LeBeau (29), set out to climb Granite Mountain, west of Denny Creek and west of Snoqualmie Pass. The climbers followed the Granite Mountain trail until...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Mount WhitneyOn May 15, Graeme Taylor (39) and Keith Reid (37), both experienced climbers, were in the Giant Staircase of the East Face route on Mt. Whitney. Graeme was about 40 feet out on lea...
Washington Column, East Face. The east face of Washington Column was climbed by Layton Kor, Jim Madsen and Kim Schmitz in May. The climb, which took three days, was rated as NCCS VI, F8, A5.
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlaska, Alaska Range, Idems PeakOn March 24, Karoline Frey (27), a German graduate student at the University of Alaska, Fairbanks, died after falling 90 feet into a crevasse while snowshoeing down a glacier abou...
Annapurna III. Our expedition was composed of Jean-Pierre Rieben, Bernard Polli, Patrik Gaillard, Bruno Vocat, Dr. Claude Pfefferlé, Jean-Claude Gay-Crosier and me as leader. Temba Sherpa was also a full member of the climbing team. Base Camp was ...
Espada, Chilly Willy. From January 21-February 8, Thierry Bionda and Jean Michell Zweiacker (Switzerland) put up a new route on the west face of Espada in the Valle del Frances. Chilly Willy (VI A3 5.8, 250m) was reported to have excellent granite...
West Quarter Dome, North Face. The Quarter Domes have two summits. Chouinard and Frost did an excellent route on the higher of these in 1962. The remaining face was climbed by Dave Goeddel and me last fall. We followed a prominent left-facing flak...
McKinley, Solo Winter Ascent. Overcoming the usual high winds, extreme temperatures and blustering storms, Vern Tejas became the first man to climb Mount McKinley solo in winter and live to tell about it. He had previously climbed the mountain 13 ...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)At the same time as they were searching for C.N. on Mount Brock on April 23, the conservation officers were called to a rescue on Mount Yamnuska about 1300. A climber was f...
Annapurna Ski Descent and Tragedy. Our team was composed of Dr. Lucien Adenis, Michel Berquet, Bernard Germain, Jean-Louis George, Yves Morin, Henry Sigayret and me and three Sherpas, Dawa Gyalzen, Chawang Rinzee and Dahunga Pemba Lama. We followe...
Alaska Alpine Club. Numerous week-end trips, particularly in the vicinity of the Club’s hut on the Castner Glacier, were made during the past year. An attempt by a new route was made on the White Princess, but was stopped by severe whiteout condit...
Dhaulagiri, Winter Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by So Anma made a successful winter ascent of Dhaulagiri on December 13 by the normal northeast ridge when Akio Koizumi and Sherpa Wangdu reached the summit. They bivouacked on the descent in a ...