FALLING ROCKBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Sir Donald MeadowsOn August 22, 1983, seven climbers from an Alpine Club of Canada group based at the Wheeler Hut and a separate party of two Americans were camped in the meadows below the Sir Donal...
Huascaran Norte, Attempt and Tragedy. On July 12, Peruvian mountain guide Marco Perez and Duncan Elliot, a South African mountaineer, left Huaraz to climb the north face of Huascaran Norte (6654m). The chosen route for the climb was the Paragot Ro...
Manaslu, East Ridge Attempt. Five Austrians led by Wilfried Studer attempted to climb the unascended east ridge of Manaslu from the north. They established three high camps. Studer and Manfred Kessler reached 24,275 feet on October 7. Very deep sn...
Pumori. We climbed the normal southwest ridge route on Pumori. Climbing began on April 10 and on the 11th we set up Camp I at 5700 meters. There were no climbing problems in getting to Camp I but the route was threatened from the left (Kala Patar)...
In September, Italians Rolando Larcher, Marco Stemi, and Erik Svab established the 670-meter route Never the Same (V 5.13c/d A0) on the east face of Tsaranoro Atsimo. The 13 pitches of the route range from 35 to 60 meters each; 122 bolts were plac...
Quimsa Cruz. From May 28 to June 30, I carried out a solo reconnaissance of the Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz, south of Illimani. In a first campaign, I entered from Pongo by truck and explored the valleys of Pusi Cota, Coricam- pana and El Aguila at ...
Ice Climbing in Alaska. There is a growing interest in ice climbing in Alaska. Two areas have been getting most of the attention: Portage glacier and Thunderbird Falls. Terry Becker, Jim Hale, Gary Bocarde, Paul Denkewalter, and Peter Sennhauser h...
HvitLinje and other ascents. On November 25 Marius Olsen and I climbed a new ice line below and northeast of Poincenot. Hvit Linje (600m, WI5 85/90°) is visible from way out on the pampas as you approach Chalten by bus, the line melting down from ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Yosemite ValleyOn August 16, 1988, Mark Peebles (23) fell while leading the seventh pitch on the regular route of the Northwest face of Half Dome. After leading from the belay, he entered a thin crac...
Both Sides of the Pyrenees, by Bernard Newman. 8vo, 224 pages with index, sketch maps, and illustrations from photographs. London: Herbert Jenkins, 1952.A middle-aged Englishman has written pleasantly about his bicycle tour, starting from Pau and ...
Mazamas. The climbing program in the Mazamas continued its expansion as it has each year since the war. There were 770 individual ascents—more than any previous year, and no accidents. The club’s climbing school expanded to an average attendance o...
Huandoy Norte, Northeast Face. Our party consisted of Michel Parmentier, Hubert Moreno, Alain Node Langlois, Evelyne Lyons, Laurence Arnaud, Michel’s sister Poupy Parmentier and me. We established Base Camp on July 15 at the foot of the east glaci...
Cordillera Apolobamba, 1992. Our expedition consisted of Ian Farmer, Steve Phillips, Rob Weight, Shona MacKenzie, Dr. Vivek Kulkarni and me as leader. We arrived in La Paz on June 26, 1992 and, after organizing food and transport, left for the Cor...
Shisha Pangma. Our nine-member Hungarian team climbed Shisha Pangma by the original route. We had a difficult journey to the mountain and back: Budapest-Moscow-Tashkent-Delhi-Kathmandu-Base Camp-Lhasa-Golmud Beijing-Ulan Bator-Moscow-Budapest, hal...
Stanford Alpine Club. The Club pursued a varied program during the past year, mixing local practice climbs with larger-scale ventures into the Sierra and beyond. The first day of spring vacation found three members at Glacier Lodge preparing for a...
Satopanth. Our team was made up of Gabriel Denamur, Mirosiaw Bukowski, Tomasz Samson, Dr. Tomasz Juda, Jadwiga Skawinska, Kazimierz Wszoiek, Mirosiaw Konewka, Emil Witos, Bogdan Remplakowski, Wladyslaw Janik and me as leader. Our original objectiv...
Fitz Roy Region, 1975. We can add a few names and details to the preliminary report given in A.A.J., 1975 on page 188. The Swiss who made a one-day ascent from the col of the American route on Fitz Roy in early 1975 were Hans Peter Trachsel, Paul ...
Rattlesnake Rock, Tumwater Canyon. This wall, located behind Piton Tower, was the scene of two new routes during the summer. The “Marlboro” route, climbed by Ed Cooper and Galen McBee started up almost behind Piton Tower, and proved to be medium-h...
Gasherbrum II. As in previous years, a large number of expeditions had Gasherbrum II (8035 meters, 26,362 feet) as their objective. Only three of them reached the summit. A six-member Swiss expedition was led by Nicole Niquille, the only woman of ...
Mukerbeh. An Indian all-woman expedition climbed Mukerbeh (19,910 feet). From Camp III on May 29 six women and two Sherpas climbed to the nearby summit of Manali Peak (18,600 feet). On May 30 two of the women, Thrity Birdy and Bharati Banerjee, an...