Nun, Kun and White Needle. Many expeditions now successfully climb the peaks in the Nun and Kun Group. Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) was climbed by French led by François Chantran, Austrians led by G. Steinmair, Poles led by Waclaw Otreba, Spania...
Ama Dablam Attempt. Our members were Edward Ramey, Austin Weiss, Chuck Hanaway, Fred Sralam, Clyde Soles and I as leader. We established Base Camp, Camps I and II on April 5, 14 and 16 at 16,000, 19,000 and 19,800 feet on the southwest ridge of Am...
Mount Vancouver, North Buttress. A Japanese expedition made the first ascent of the north buttress of Mount Vancouver from the Hubbard Glacier. The first-ascent route (AAJ, 1950, p. 367) went up what might better be called the northwest ridge, tho...
Climbing in the Adirondacks. Don Mellor. Lake Placid Climbing School— Sundog Ski and Sports, Lake Placid, 1983. 178 pages, black and white photographs.
Northern Urals, Peak Sablya, two new routes in winter. These ascents took 10 days for the climbs (820m, Russian grade VI) and were done simultaneously by two teams. The joint Peterburg-Ekaterinburg team earned second place in the “first-ascent cla...
Pumori. A Spanish expedition led by Josu Feijoo climbed Pumori (7161 meters, 23,494 feet) by the southeast face to the east ridge. On April 25, Jesus María Díaz and Luis Angel Rojo completed the 61st ascent of the peak.Elizabeth Hawley
FALL ON ICE, FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING ALONE Washington, Mount RainierWhile descending Mount Rainier on July 3 via Tahoma Glacier, I slipped on some fairly steep ice. I tried unsuccessfully to self-arrest and was quickly out of control. I lost ...
Off the Beaten Track. Elizabeth D. Woolsey. Wilson Bench Press (PO Box 104, Wilson WY 83014). 208 pages, black and white photographs, glossaries. $19.75.Off the Beaten Track, Elizabeth Woolsey recounts a life that from her birth in New Mexico to t...
Ndoto Mountains, Poi, Doing A Dirty Eastern Groove. During July of 2003, we climbed a new 17-pitch route up the east face of Mt. Poi in the Ndoto Mountains of northern Kenya. Our team consisted of four university students from around the world: Fe...
P 2000. This peak lies just south of Cerro Catedral in the Valle del Francés. A route on its east face was worked out on six different days during December, 1992 and January, 1993 by Italians Svaluto Moreolo, Mauro Valmassoi, Alessandro Raccamello...
Mount Drum, Southwest Ridge, Wrangell Mountains. Two local groups climbed Mount Drum (12,010 feet) by the southwest ridge in early May. Jim Jennings and Jim Meigs reached the summit in one push from their camp at 5600 feet, bivouacking at 9900 fee...
Mount Foraker and Mount Crosson. On June 2, Doug Geeting flew Paul Barry, Jacques Boutet, Ron Rickman and me to the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, east of Foraker (17,400 feet). Our goal was the seven-mile-long Sultana Ridge, via Mount Cr...
Deoban attempts and P 21,122. An Indian Air Force team set up an advance camp on Deoban (22,480 feet) and made summit bids on June 17 and 19 but was foiled by inclement weather. They diverted to P 21,122 which Nawang Phenzo and two other members c...
P 20,240. Chanchal Mitra, Harsha Muni Nautiyal and Debi Ram claim to have climbed this virgin peak due north of Suvarna on August 9. They left for the summit from camp on the Kalindi Pass.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
New York, Shawungunks (1)—In June, 1956 Bob Graef and Mary Syl- vander were climbing “Gaston.” While leading the top pitch of “Gaston,” a practice climb, Bob lost consciousness due to heat and fell 20 to 30 feet. He was held by Mary but he suffere...
Siguniang, first ascent of north face. Taking 6 days, Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden made the first ascent of the north face of Siguniang, in April, 2002. Then, they made a two-day descent of the unclimbed north ridge. Most of days they endured snow...
Outpost. A new route was made to this summit on August 5 by Mr. and Mrs. W. V. Graham Matthews. From Fairy Meadow the northwest ridge was followed with minor variations onto the adjoining faces. Rope was used sparingly on a round trip of eight hou...
Pasang Lhamu Chuli (Jasamba, Cho Aui) (7,351m), attempt. A six-member Slovenian team led by Uros Samec went up a new line on this mountain just south of Cho Oyu. Although it is officially called Pasang Lhamu Chuli, it used to be known as Jasamba o...
Trango Nameless Tower. Two members of a 5-man South Korean expedition led by Kim Chang-Ho are said to have climbed the Trango Nameless Tower. Details are lacking.
Mount Rainier, Russell Cliffs. The previously unreported first ascent of these cliffs was completed in July, 1960, by Dave Mahre, Jim Kurtz, Don Jones, and Gene Prater. From a camp at Steamboat Prow, we crossed the Winthrop Glacier as soon as the ...