Chicago Mountaineering Club. During 1948 the Chicago Mountaineering Club enjoyed a series of fine monthly meetings from January to June and from October to December, and held a number of local outings. The favorite local climbing spot is Devils La...
Over Tyrolese Hills, by F. S. Smythe. xv + 297 pages, with illustrations, map and index. London : Hodder & Stoughton, 1936. In the summer of 1935, as a preliminary to a more arduous Himalayan journey, the author, accompanied by a Canadian, Cam...
Everest in the Post-Monsoon Season. On the standard South Col route on Everest, climbers are somewhat better protected from the terrible winds that sweep the Tibetan side and on October 10, Japanese Muneo Nukita reached the summit with Sherpas Apa...
Schweizerland, Various Ascents. It was reported that Britans Ian Brewer, Rupert Finn, Steve Fisher, Lucy and Richard Pash, and Cynnedd Richards skied some 100 kilometers through the Caledonian Alps and across the Glacier de France to reach their c...
During the last week of April and the first week of May, a four-person New Zealand-American team, comprising Lydia Bradey, Kenny Gasch, Penny Goddard, and I, attempted the east face of Nyambo Konka. This beautiful summit lies just south of M...
Gya, Mistaken Attempt, and Other Ascents. It was reported that three expeditions attempted this unclimbed peak in 1997. In April, Arum Samant led a three-man team (Anil Chavan and Vinod Bodh) from Bombay that also included High-Altitude Porters Pa...
Siulá Grande, South-Southeast Spur. On July 12 Jean Baehler, Luc Défago and I were at Base Camp at 13,775 feet on the shores of Siulácocha to the east of Siulá Grande below the unclimbed south-southeast spur. On the 13th we fixed rope on a 1000-fo...
Glacier National Park, Various Activity. A cool, dry fall, a full moon, and the sudden arrival of an arctic front coincided with a trip Ryan Hokanson and I had planned for the first week- end in November. To ensure we didn’t waste such rare condit...
Viewing the massive south-facing Bubbs Creek Wall, one will see two obvious continuous crack systems on the right (east) side of the face. The left crack was climbed by Fred Beckey and party in 1974. In July 1983, Bill McConachie and I climbed the...
Washington, Olympic Mountains, Mt. Cleaver. On August 26, a large party of Mazamas was climbing different spires in the vicinity of Mt. Cleaver. As the climbers were descending individually by different routes Dennis Searcy (18) apparently stepped...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite ValleyOn June 3, 1980, Jeff Jackson (21) and Bill Crichlow were climbing the Jam route on Glacier Point Apron. Jackson was leading the first pitch when he was struck twice by a rockfall and fell about...
Originally we had planned to attempt a first ascent of Kawaluori (Kawarani) near Ganze. However, it proved impossible to secure permission due to religious celebrations and the need to avoid disturbing the delicate political balance in the region....
American-Japanese Climbing Exchange, Part I in Alaska. In February four Japanese came to Alaska, at the invitation of the Alaska Section of the AAC to climb ice. In October, an American (mostly Alaskan) team made a reciprocal, rock-climbing visit ...
Deadman Buttress, Sonora Pass Region, 1982 and 1984. In July 1982 Don Neer and I climbed the Arête Route up crack systems on the central of the three buttresses on the south side of Highway 108, ½ mile east of Chipmunk Flat. The route is on the ar...
Mt. Whitney, …Lost. Our climb was spectacular and, compared to our expectations, epic. Not counting 8,000' vertical of carrying loads in the first 24 hours. Not counting getting snowed off the Fishhook Arête, our training climb. Not counting our t...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, PROTECTION PULLED OUTAlberta, Bow Valley, Yamnuska, CMC WallOn June 15, a female climber was leading on the CMC Wall on Yamnnska (Mount John Laurie). On the third pitch near the top, she pulled out some large l...
Trisul, West Face. A seven-man Japanese expedition climbed the Yugoslavian route on Trisul’s west face. The leader was Kozo Sakano. Base Camp was established at 15,550 feet on September 4 and Camp I at 16,900 feet on the 7th. Camp II was placed at...
Makalu, West Buttress Attempt and Tragedy. New Zealanders Peter Hillary and Bill Denz and Australians Mark Moorhead and Fred From attempted to climb the west buttress of Makalu. They pitched three camps above Base Camp. The death of two of the fou...
From June 13-15, Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Colin Haley climbed Mt. Foraker by starting on False Dawn, then making the first ascent of a 3,000' mixed wall on the southeast face, and finishing via the French Ridge. Their climb, Dracula (AI4+ M6R AO), ...
Ama Dablam, North Ridge Attempt. Steven Davis, Charles “Mick” Holt, Jeffery Alzner and I attempted the north ridge of Ama Dablam. After some delay in getting our baggage because of the continuing monsoon, we established Base Camp on September 25 a...