INADEQUATE BELAY, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATIdaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Twist and CrawlTwist and Crawl is about a 35-39-meter route. The leader (53) of the route, clipped draws to the anchor chains and was to be lowered off. The belayer’...

Wedge Peak, North Face. Ian MacRae and I started walking, in the rain, into Mount Wedge on August 1. Early on August 3 we set up base in the Wedge Cwm. It was no longer raining; now, it was snowing. It continued to snow until the 6th. Early on Aug...

Everest, first descent by paraglider. First to reach the summit on May 22 were Bertrand “Zébulon” Roche and his wife Clair Bernier-Roche. This was the second time for Bertrand on the summit of Everest. In October 1990, when he was 17 years old, he...

Changtse, Southeast Face, 1986.I made an unreported ascent of Changtse in 1986 up a new route, the southeast face. This was the fourth ascent of the mountain and the first American one. I first tried a new line on the right of the southeast face o...

Junai Kangri, west face and south ridge. On August 22 Francisco Ferrero, Juan G. Hernandez, Jose C. Llamas, and I, from Spain, with Phurbu Bhutia and Dawa Sherpa from India, made the first ascent of a 6,017m peak we have named Junai Kangri.Our goa...

FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED Alberta, Mount Temple, Greenwood/Locke RouteOn August 20, a party of two attempted the Greenwood/Locke Route (V, 5.9 A1). The two got a predawn start and reached the rock pitches above the upper icefield in good time...

Pts 6,132m and 6,154m, first ascents. These previously unclimbed mountains are situated at the head of the Armasong Nala, which drains into the Baspa River. A 13-member team from West Bengal led by N. Prasad Rao traveled via Sangla, Chhitkul, and ...

Cerro Zorrita, Sierra Almeida. On March 2, Edward T. Hobaugh and I departed Antofagasta with Chilean Gaston Oyarzun providing logistics and transportation. We established a base camp near the Llullaillaco massif in Quebrada de las Zorritas at an e...

Glacial Geology and the Pleistocene Epoch, by Richard Foster Flint. 598 pages, with six plates, 88 text figures and 30 tables. New York: John Wiley and Sons, 1947. $6.00.This is primarily a textbook on Pleistocene glaciation. Richard F. Flint, Pro...

Purcell Range of British Columbia. The Department of Lands, Victoria, B. C., issued in 1943 a new map which has just become available to the public: 4G Windermere (two miles to one inch, uncontoured). To mountaineers its chief interest will be in ...

Reticent Wall, Solo Ascent. Tomaž Humar (Slovenia) climbed El Capitan’s Reticent Wall (VI 5.9 A5, 850m) solo, finishing on October 26 after 15 days on the route. In Slovenia, in the Kamnik Alps, Tomaz has put up several demanding technical routes ...

FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INEXPERIENCE, NO BELAYWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount TeewinotChris Thompson (16) and Forrest Hill (?) had left Idaho Falls early the morning of June 6 to climb the East Face of Mount Teewinot. Thompso...

Cherskiy Mountains. Michael Doyle, Simon Inger, John Kentish and I were the first western climbers to visit the Cherskiy Mountains of the Sakha Republic (Yakutia) in northeast Siberia. They lie near the Arctic Circle 400 miles northwest of Magadan...

FALL ON SNOW, FALL INTO MOAT, CLIMBING UNROPED, LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, NO HARD HAT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEUtah, Mt. TimpanogosThis narrative and analysis will cover the accidents of both Richard Lambert, m.D., and Richard ...

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR TOOL PLACEMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hidden FallsOn December 20, Ben Johnson (21) was leading Hidden Falls Left (I, WI, 3+) belayed by Krys Obrzut. Johnson climbed the ...

Arches National Park. Jeff Widen and Dawn Burke climbed the Heart of the Desert route, one pitch on Entrada sandstone in the Park Avenue area of the Courthouse Towers section of the park. When viewed from the Park Avenue parking area, the route is...

Alaska, Mt. McKinley. On 16 June Jim Lathrop was lead man on a rope of three while descending the steep West Buttress wall. Much snow had accumulated during a bad storm. Travel was extremely slow in the hip deep and sometimes chest deep snow. He w...

Beaverhead Mountains, traverse. On August 12, 2003, I finished a 1,362-mile journey that included a traverse of the Rocky Mountains. The journey was completed in segments involving kayaking, hiking, climbing, and mountain biking. I began in Montan...

AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn the evening of June 15, 1982, a North Cascades Alpine School (NCAS) expedition of four and the Valley Mountaineers expedition of four were camped at the 3900-meter level on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. On ...

FALLS ON ROCKColorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Cruise RouteOn June 17 th, Zach Alberts (20) fell while leading a climb of the 5.10+ Cruise Route. Alberts was climbing about ten feet above his last piece of protection when he lo...