AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. KitchenerOn February 28, 1979, Scott Gilbert and Tom Pulaski, both of Denver, Colorado, left Highway 93 and started up the normal approach to the north face of Mt. Kitchener. Approximately 300 yards off the h...
WEATHERBritish Columbia, Comox, Mount Albert-EdwardThree climbers were reported overdue on September 17. They had been attempting a four- to five-day traverse which involved glacier travel in the Mount Albert-Edward area in the Comox region of Van...
Jasmaba Goth, west ridge attempt. Jasamba Goth is the name given to the 6,730m shoulder toward the end of the long northwest ridge of Pasang Lhamu Chuli, where the ridge splits into two branches; one falling north of west and the other south of we...
Glacier Camp of the A.A.C. The 1947 camp of the Alpine Club of Canada was held at Glacier from July 13th to July 26th. It was located on the old Canadian Pacific Railway Glacier House site, as were the Sir Donald Camp of 1932 and the Arthur O. Whe...
Langtang Ri. Virgin Langtang Ri (7239 meters, 23,750 feet) was climbed by its south ridge by a joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition led by Hideyuki Uematsu. Base Camp was established on September 20. On September 30, immediately after the big storm,...
Sorcerer Group, Selkirks. On August 20, W. S. Litterick and William J. Buckingham made the first ascent of “Mount Merlin” (9334 feet), between Fang Rock and Mount Graham. From Flat Creek Station we packed in to camp near the mouth of Farm Creek. W...
K2, South-Southeast Ridge, Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by Yamamoto Atushi (33) put 12 members on the summit of K2 and recorded the third and fifth ascents of K-2’s south-southeast ridge. Deputy leader Matsubara Masayuki (31) led a team of si...
Huandoy Oeste, North Face. I joined British climber Alan Hinkes for two climbs. We made a two-day ascent of Huandoy Norte by its northwest face for acclimatization. After a rest day, we camped at a small lake below the north face of Huandoy Oeste....
Chearoco, Southeast Face. Our expedition consisted of Mary Stigge, Jean Aschenbrenner, Wesley Berg and Jack Zuzack as members and Doug Solfermoser and myself as co-leaders. The objective was to climb Chearoco (6127m), the large peak to the southea...
Aguja de la S and St. Exupéry. After their successful ascent on the fourth try on December 3, 1986 of the Franco-Argentine route on Fitzroy, Austrians Hans Bärnthaler and Ewald Lidl returned to the region in late 1987. (Their companions Ernst Konz...
SLIP ON SNOW/ICECalifornia, Mount WhitneyOn February 4, 1984, Rob Heineman (22) was descending the Mountaineers Route off Mount Whitney after a successful ascent of the East Face with his partner. The descent route is normally done third class, bu...
Shisha Pangma. Our expedition was made up of Setsuko Kitamura, Yoko Mihara, Yoshiko Kato, Keiko Tsurube, Yumiko Kurosawa, Yuko Kuramatsu, Etsuko Otsuki, Noriko Watanabe and me as leader. We traveled by car from Lhasa to Base Camp (16,900 feet) fro...
P 7400, East Side of the Ruth Gorge. Doug Klewin and I climbed the southwest face of P 7400. The first eight pitches were 5.9 or 5.10 with an occasional aid move. After that, it was easier, 5.8 or so. The route was 22 pitches in all and included r...
California, Yosemite Falls, Yosemite National Park. On 28 July, Kenneth Klein (23) and John Gunn (19) left a trail bike parked approximately three miles west of trail head to top of Yosemite Falls. Their automobile was left at the trail head, but ...
“Cloudburst Buttress, ” near Temple Lake. While in the Temple Peak area during the first week of September, Reid Dowdle, Jeff Niwa and I made the first ascent of a very attractive buttress on the west valley wall immediately north of Temple Lake. ...
Satopanth, Kedar Dome, Bhagirathi II. A Franco-Italian expedition led by two guides, Italian Cesare Cesa Bianchi and me, had 12 members. On August 13 Cesa Bianchi, Nicola Di Primio, Michel Bernard, Raymond Eynard-Machet and I climbed Satopanth by ...
Guide de la Chaine du Mont Blanc, by Marcel Kurz. 12 mo. ; 501 pages, with index and 56 diagrams. Fourth edition. Lausanne: Payot et Cie., 1935.The fourth edition of this standard guide (par pur piété filiale et pour perpétuer la tradition) contai...
Icefall Peak, Alaska Range. In March and April, Roman Motyha, Larry Reynolds and Bjarne Holm made a new route on Icefall Peak. The route from the Gulkana Glacier had been tried several times before, but all previous parties had been turned back by...
Mount Root. On May 30, Silas Wild, Sam Grubenhoff, Jim Urvina and I made the first ascent of Mount Root (10,570 feet), which we believe had been the second highest named but still unclimbed peak in North America. We were flown from Yakutat to 6700...
Lhotse Shar, Ascent. On Lhotse Shar, the 8400-meter eastern summit of the Lhotse massif next to Everest, a team of 15 Russian climbers led by Vladimir Savkov sent four men (Alexandre Foigt, Evgueni Vinogradski, Gleb Sokolov, Sergei Timofeev) to th...