Cerro Torre. The furor goes on unabated over the 1971 ascent of Cerro Torre by Cesare Maestri, in which the Italian climbers placed an enormous number of bolts with the help of a pneumatic drill. It will be remembered that in 1959 Maestri claimed ...
Pre-Monsoon in the Nepal Himalaya. Seven climbers died this spring in the Nepalese Himalaya, all during descents from 8000-meter summits. Two had no previous success on any 8000-meter mountain and used artificial oxygen during the final hours of t...
Mt. Hermon. Mrs. V. Z. Lotowycz writes of climbing Mt. Hermon (9232 ft.), a mountain of both archaeological and historical interest, on the borders of Syria and Lebanon. She reports: “The summit consists of three peaks which rise from a small plat...
STEPHEN WAYNE JENSEN1952-1982Although he considered himself an amateur climber, mountaineering was playing an increasingly large role in Stephen Jensen’s life. His hobby had taken him to McKinley in Alaska, to Athabasca, Eisenhower, Assiniboine an...
Istor-o-Nal. On June 5 Zvone Kofler and Janko Ažman of the Third Yugoslav Hindu Kush Expedition made the second ascent of Istor-o-Nal (24,271 feet) by a new, direct route on the south side. The route ascended the southwest buttress and ridge. (Fir...
Vinson Massif, East Ridge, 1989. Chileans Arturo Fernandois, Fernando Luchsinger, Jaime Roca, Italo Valle and I as leader were flown from Punta Arenas by the Chilean Air Force to its base on Isla Rey Jorge and only 21 days later, because of bad we...
Nameless Tower, Trango Towers, Baltoro Karakoram. Our members were Andrew Atkinson, Stuart Holmes, Alan Scott, Ian Lonsdale and me as leader. We wanted to climb a new route on the Nameless Tower alpine-style. We arrived at Base Camp on the Trango ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADEOregon, North SisterThe following accident on May 13, 1989, was reported as follows:All my information is secondhand. As a result of head injuries, I have no memory of the climb. I belayed my partner onto the glac...
Mount Fortitude, Selkirks. The first ascent of Mount Fortitude, a 9100-foot summit at the western border of Glacier Park, British Columbia, was made by Dr. and Mrs. Robert West August 21, 1956. This climb up the east ridge of Mount Fortitude was c...
Stiletto, Sierra I and Eaglehead, Coast Range. Technical new routes were done on each of these peaks, flanking the Tellot Glacier. A two-day climb was completed on the east buttress of Stiletto by Steve Must and John Chilton. These two also climbe...
FALL ON ROCKMinnesota, Taylor’s FallsOn Saturday, April 6, while waiting for a friend at a local area called Taylors Falls, I did some easy soloing and some bouldering. I chose a crack route that was overhanging and has an excellent landing. After...
AAC, North Central Section. The North Central Section covers Minnesota, Iowa, Nebraska, South Dakota and North Dakota. In July, 1999, Scott Christensen took over the post of chairman, which had been vacant in 1997-’98. A first goal was to make a w...
CUMBER PULLED ROCK OFF, ROCK FALLColorado, Eldorado Canyon, Wind TowerOn June 17 rescuers were called to Eldorado Canyon State Park for a rock- slide with a person trapped. Selma Hafizbegovic (39) was going to climb the Wind Tower rock formation v...
Unbekannte Schweizer Landschaften aus dem xvii. Jahrhundert, by S. Stelling-Michaud. 4to., pp. 103, with 40 plates. Zürich: Niehans Verlag, 1937. Sw. Fr. 16.50.The great Dutch masters, like Rembrandt, seldom traveled south of the Alps—there were e...
Angelino Wall, Drop Zone. From November 27-December 1, 1996, Chris McNamara and I climbed Drop Zone (11 pitches, 5.8 A4-) on the Angelino Wall, the chocolate-colored pillar on the first large formation behind the Visitors’ Center. The Angelino Wal...
P2, first ascent. As noted above, one of the aims of the Ukrainian expedition to Manaslu was to make the first ascent of P2 (6251m a.k.a. Simnag Himal East), a minor summit along the east ridge of Ngadi Chuli (7871m a.k.a. Peak 29) immediately sou...
K7 Attempt. Bob Wightman, Bob Brewer, Luke Steer and I hoped to make the second ascent of K7 by a new route, the southwest ridge, capsule style. We arrived at Base Camp on July 23. Camps I and II were placed at 4600 and 5000 meters on July 25 and ...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AberdeenAbout 1700 on August 27, a party of four were descending the north glacier separating the summits of Mts. Aberdeen (3152 meters) and Haddo. On the lower ice tongue (angled ab...
Norbu Kang, first official ascent. During the summer, Japanese led by Tamotsu Ohnishi made the first ascent of Norbu Kang, a recently opened 6,005m peak in the Upper Dolpo region of northwest Nepal. From a base camp pitched on June 20 at 4,805m, w...
Broad Peak Ascent and Attempts. As in previous years, a number of expeditions attempted to climb Broad Peak, mostly by the normal route. An international group of eight climbers from seven different countries was organized commercially and guided ...