Changping Valley, Celestial Peak, east face. From February 7-19 the Russian team of Kolesov, Shelkovnikov, and Sherstnev climbed a major new line up the east face of Celestial Peak (5,413m). The accompanying photograph shows the line but no furthe...
Mount Jefferson, East Arête. On August 23, 1964, Jock McPherson and I crossed the White Water Glacier to the longest continuous rock route on the mountain’s east side, rising from the glacier at the 8000-foot level. Once on the rock, climbing was ...
Tignes. Even mountaineers who have never been in the Val d’Isère, who know it only through the affectionate accounts by frequenters of the region, must notice with regret the abandonment and inundation of Tignes. Not quite a mile down the valley f...
ROCK HOLDING PROTECTION BROKE OFF–FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTBritish Columbia, Yoho National Park, Mount StephenOn September 27, a party of three were attempting a new route on the China Wall of Mount Stephen. They had ascended the lower 3...
Fitz Roy Attempt. Our expedition (also including Jordi Pons—Editor) was prevented from reaching the summit of Fitz Roy by very strong winds. We tried the American route early in 1979.Jose Manuél Anglada, Club Montañés Barcelonés
P 9290, Kahiltna Glacier. On July 14 Ernst Bauer, Dennis Burge and Carl Heller climbed P 9290 by its southeast ridge. This peak lies southeast of Kahiltna Dome. The climbers had just descended from climbing McKinley by the West Buttress.
Broad Peak. A 13-man Japanese expedition led by Michio Yasua made the second ascent of Broad Peak (26,400 feet) by the route first ascended by the Austrians in 1957. Base Camp was established at 16,000 feet on July 7. Camps I, II, III, and IV were...
Alaska Section. Our Section celebrated the summer of 2010 by commencing construction of the new hut on the edge of the Snowbird Glacier. Located in the Hatcher Pass area of the Talkeetna Mountains, the original hut was purchased by the Alaska Sect...
New Routes on Daff and Fairview Domes, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite. On July 2 Bob Kamps and I climbed a new route on Daff Dome and called it “The Cooke Book” after the blacksmith-climber, Bruce Cooke. The route ascends the obvious left-facing open-...
Refugio Autocamping, Lago Viedma, Patagonia. On November 15 an inn opened on Lake Viedma near the foot of Fitz Roy at the northern end of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Not only will food and lodging be available there, but the management has ...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. In the pre-monsoon period Hans Berger led a Swiss expedition that attempted Lhotse Shar (8383 meters, 27,504 feet) by its southeast ridge, the Swiss route of the autumn of 1981. Only the four-man team carried loads above Camp ...
Kohe Lakhsh, Wakhan. An expedition from Southern France (Lyon and Nice) was led by Louis Dubost, who was accompanied by his wife, Bernard Denjoy and his wife, Paul Gendre and his wife, Mlle Suzanne Valentini, Mlle Bernard, Louis Gevril, Jacques Br...
On October 26 Zach Lee and I did a new route on the west face of the peak north of, and connected to, Bridge Mountain, The peak is officially unnamed but known locally as Sub Peak or Confluence Peak. We dubbed our effort Satan’s Waitin’, aft...
Longs Peak, East Face, La Dolce Vita. During three days in June, the famous Italian Renato Casarotto and I established a new route on the east face of Longs Peak. Starting from Mills Glacier, we took a line up the huge right-facing comer system ju...
Phunangma. The first ascent of Phunangma (22,272 feet) in Ladakh was made on August 4 by Captain F. C. Bahaduri, Naik Satish Kumar Thapa, Naik Sonam Tashi, Hav S. S. Bhandari and two Sherpas. The peak was climbed again on August 5 by Captain N. K....
First Across the Roof of the World, Traverse of the Himalaya. Graeme Dingle, Chewang Tashi and I formed the traverse party with other Indian and New Zealand members as a support team with which we rendezvoused every three or four weeks. Far more t...
National DefenceIn December, 1940, the cooperation of the American Alpine Club was invited by the United States Army. So far this cooperation has consisted of supplying the Army with information concerning equipment to be used in mountainous regio...
Gasherbrum II, First Iranian Ascent. Gasherbrum II was the first 8000-meter peak organized and climbed independently by Iranians. The ascent was via the normal route from the south in Pakistan. We set up four camps on the ascent: Base Camp (5200m)...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Buttress of Chasm View. In May Rob Kiesel and I braved the regular descent gully, north of the northern rim of Chasm View. We crossed the river to the foot of the northern buttress of the south rim of Chasm View...
Donjek Glacier, first ascents. On June 1 Jonathon Wakefield and I flew into the Donjek Glacier, where we made first ascents of eight peaks around the East Donjek Glacier, a spur off the head of the main Donjek. Geoff Hornby and I had researched th...