Combatant, Coast Range. Mount Combatant’s 4500-foot south pillar rises from the Tiedemann Glacier, next to Waddington. This big wall of excellent granite had been tried only once, in 1992 by Greg Collum and Andy Selters. In the fall of 1994, Collu...

JOHN HENRY HALL 1944–1971John Hall was a student in geochemistry at the California Institute of Technology. Before that he had studied medicine at Harvard University and chemistry at Reed College. It was at the latter that I came to know him in th...

While working in Afghanistan with development projects, I was constantly impressed by the beauty of the Hindu Kush and excited about its climbing potential. “Being involved with projects that attempted to promote sustainable development for poor m...

Cervin: Belle Epoque. Gaston Rébuffat. Grand Vents, Genève, 1983. French text. 168 pages, black and white and color illustrations. 150F.However it is called, the classically shaped Cervin-Cervino-Matterhom must be among the best known peaks in the...

ALLSTON BURR 1866 - 1949Allston Burr, long a member of the American Alpine Club, died in January 1949 at the age of 82. His life was one of quiet accomplishment, devoted to his family, to his wide circle of friends and to his great interest in and...

Shimshal White Horn (ca. 6,400m), attempt. Shimshal White Horn (a.k.a. Ishpardin) is an elegant snow pyramid located to the northeast of Distaghil Sar. In July-August a French team comprising Jacques Autino, Brimbelle Grandcolas, Luc Jarry-Lacombe...

Give Me the Hills, by Miriam Underhill. London: Methuen & Co., 1956. 252 pages; ills. Price 25 s.This book will be enthusiastically received by all who respond with a hearty "For me, too!" to Miriam Underhill’s exclamatory "Give me the Hills!"...

Shipton Spire (Hainabrakk), Fragments of Freedom. Our team of four climbers from the Moscow Karakoram Expedition— Denis Savelyev (leader), Evgeny Korol, Andrew Muryshev, and Sergey Nilov— ascended a new line called Fragments of Freedom on Hainabra...

Number ofTotalAccidents ReportedPersons InvolvedInjuredKilledUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164019119...

My Tibet. Text by His Holiness The Fourteenth Dalai Lama of Tibet. Photographs and Introduction by Galen Rowell. Mountain Light Press, published by the University of California Press, Berkeley and Los Angeles, 1990. Large Format, 162 pages, 117 co...

Mera Peak (6,470m), south ridge, In Memoriam. From October 29 to 31 I climbed a new route, solo, on the right side of Mera Peak’s southwest face. I named it In Memoriam, as a tribute to Mal Duff and Ian “Tat” Tattersall; the only other route on th...

WILLIAM WILLIAMS 1862-1947William Williams was born in New London, Conn., on 2 June 1862, a son of Charles Augustus and Elizabeth Hoyt Williams. He was a descendant of William Williams who signed the Declaration of Independence. A bachelor, he di...

FALL/SLIP ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—Washington, Mt. Rainier. Frederick Hamly (35) was cleaning a billy pot at Camp Hazard (11,000 feet). He was a member of an RMI expedition seminar. The top of the pot got away from him, and as h...

Narsap Sarqa Fjord, Various Ascents. It was reported that Britans Chris Bedford, Simon Inger, Henry Lickorish and Alastair Mitchell operated out of the head of Narsap Sarqa Fjord from July 24 to August 13 and made first ascents of the following: A...

Mt. Ruoni, attempt. The Kangri Garpo Range is located in the Zayul and Bomi Counties of Eastern Tibet. Since this region is close to the borders with both India and Myanmar, it has remained strictly off-limits to foreigners for many years. Even no...

Peaks Twelve Kilometers West of Pik Pobedy, Tien Shan. Our expedition was composed of Austrians Leo Baumgartner, leader, Dr. Andreas Paul, Gernot Madritsch, Hubert Engl, Heli Ortner, Netherlander Ton Biesemaan and Germans Tom Stöger and me. On Sep...

North Chasm View Wall, 8th Voyage, Black Canyon of the Gunnison. The 8th Voyage is a VI, 5.11d route located on North Chasm View Wall. It was put up by Jim Dunn and me in September. The route is located between the Stoned Oven and the Air Voyage. ...

Utah, Salt Lake City, Petes Rock—On January 11, Curtis Hawkins (18), and Dick Wallin (16) were climbing on Pete’s Rock. They had been climbing for about one and a half hours before the accident. During this time Hawkins had been trying a lead on R...

Tengkangpoche, attempts on north side. As of the close of 2005 Tengkangpoche (6,487m), west of Namche Bazar, had been attempted by eight expeditions since it was brought onto the permitted list in 2002. All but one of these tried to climb the impr...

Gongstang, Lahul. An expedition led by Ashim Kumar Gosh Chowdhary approached Gangstang (6162 meters, 20,216 feet) via the Nisang valley. Four members reached the summit on September 2.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal