South Continental Tower, Continental Drifters. From the idyllic upper meadows of the Little Sandy Valley, the South Continental Tower consists of a lower west-facing wall separated from the freestanding summit pinnacle by a large talus bench. In 1...
“The Matterhunk” is our unofficial name for the huge limestone peak formation a mile south of Boyden Cave on Highway 180 on the south fork of the Kings River. In October Herb Laeger, Eddie Joe and I climbed the dramatic 1500-foot northeast arete f...
Canadian St. Elias Expedition. On July 10 Alice Culbert, Jack Bryceland, Jim Craig, Fred Douglas, Steve Heim, Dietmar Setzer, my wife Margriet Wyborn and I flew from Seattle to Yakutat. On the same day we were flown into Oily Lake which is trapped...
Rosario Norte, Sarapo Oeste, Ancocancha Este and Other Peaks. On July 20 Peter Leeming, Cedric Marsh, William Patterson and I packed our gear onto four burros and set off on our two-day walk from Cajatambo to Base Camp at 4300 meters on the southw...
In August 2011 Wesley Ashwood, Kelsey Sheely, and I put up a new line on the northeast face of the Guardian (13,617') in the East Grenadier Range of the southern San Juan Mountains. My two previous attempts on the face had been thwarted by weather...
An Approach to Habel Creek and Mt. Alberta from the Sunwapta Valley. August, 1938. E. R. Gibson, B. Gilman, H. S. Hall, Jr. From the Jasper-Lake Louise road between mileposts 57 and 58 (5200 ft. ; directly E. of Mt. Woolley, and where letter S of ...
Na Vrh Sveta, by Aleš Kunaver, Ante Mahkota, Jože Andlovic, Matija Maležic, Danilo Cedilnik and Tone Skarja. Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, 1979. Published in both Slovene and Croatian. 254 pages with 184 photographs in color, 124 in black-and-white...
Mazamas. The Mazamas, Portland, Oregon, continued their regular program of official climbs, local walks and Wednesday evening clubroom programs during the year 1950. The climbing committee conducted a pre-season climbing school for ten weeks durin...
Pumori Winter Ascent. On November 25 Michael Dimitri and I made Base Camp at Gorak Shep in order to climb Pumori. On December 1, we climbed directly from Kala Patar to 6000 meters on the southwest ridge, but Dimitri had an intestinal illness and s...
Grandes Jorasses and Aiguille de Leschaux, Mont Blanc Group. On August 11 Guido Machetto and I made the first ascent of the south face of the Grandes Jorasses. We climbed the 5000-foot-high face in three days, starting from the Ferret Valley. Our ...
When Men and Mountains Meet: The Explorers of the Western Himalayas 1820-75. John Keay. Archon Books, Hamden, Connecticut, 1982. 277 pages, black and white photographs, illustrations, maps, bibliography. $17.50.This is a book of the men who mapped...
Aguja Mermoz, northwest crest. On October 21 Vasja Kouta, David Pehnec, and I arrive at base camp, Piedra del Fraile. The weather is bad. First we attempt Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy but turn back a few pitches above the block. Later, conditions on ...
Cayangate IV, North Face, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our expedition was composed of Dr. Pierre Barnola, Pierre Chapoutot, Paul Giroud, Jean Jacques and Martine Rolland, my wife Elizabeth and me. We accomplished our chief objective, a new route on the n...
At the western end of the Darwin Range in Chile’s Tierra del Fuego rises one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, the ca 2,200m Monte Sarmiento. The mountain is 150km from the nearest human settlement and is only accessible by boat. Bad...
ANATOLI BOUKREEV1958-1997The last 15 months that have been left on my shoulders have given me three splendid successes, both personal and in sport. An ascent on Fitz Roy (3441m) in Patagonia via the west face in 25 hours round-trip, an ascent of t...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT and INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Tahquitz RockOn October 19, Sean was leading the first pitch of “The Blank” route on Tahquitz when he fell. The route began at a large ledge and access t...
Expedition to Mount HayesOscar HoustonAN unsuccessful attempt to climb Mt. Hayes was made in August, 1937, by a party of four, Dr. Roger Whitney, Andrew Taylor, Grant Pearson and Oscar Houston. The expedition was defeated by the bad weather that p...
HAPE, HACE, FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 22, 1991, Korean Kim Hongbim (32), who was camped at Denali Pass at 18,200 feet on the West Buttress Route on Mount McKinley, became seriously ill with severe AMS and high altitude pulmonary edema....
Kanchenjunga SoloPIERRE Beghin, Groupe de Haute MontagneON MY RETURN FROM JANNU in November 1982, I obtained permission to climb Kanchenjunga’s southwest face in the autumn of 1983. In March 1983 I decided on a solo ascent. Despite six years of Hi...
RAPPEL RIGGING ERROR – FALL ON ROCK, DISTRACTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Serenity CrackOn May 7, Brian Ellis (31) and Japhy Dhungana (25), his frequent climbing partner of several years, climbed Serenity Crack (three pitches, 5. lOd) and Sons ...