Fitz Roy Group, 1974. A Polish expedition was active in various parts of the Andes from October, 1973 to September, 1974. They were Ryszard Rodzinski, Henryk Cioncka, Stanislaw Jaworski, Zbigniew Kursa, Andrzej Lapinski, Antoni Panta and Zdzislaw ...
Midnight Rock, Tumwater Canyon. In May, starting from approximately below the prominent large balanced rock, Ron Priebe, Ed Cooper, and Irv Dunn climbed a route which they dubbed the “Widowmaker.” This class 5-6 climb required 14 pitons. The “Grea...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempt. A strong French group led by Jean-Jacques Prieur had originally planned an attempt on the southwest face of Gasherbrum I, a new line to the left of the Polish spur of 1983. Due to scarce snowfall in the spring, ...
Phabrang. Keshab Mukherjee, Asit Roy, Bidhu Sarkar and Sankat Ali Mondai from Calcutta made the third ascent of Phabrang (20,250 feet) on July 19.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
The Temple, (Methow Range), Northeast Face. What must be the last unclimbed part of this picturesque peak on Kangaroo Ridge fell to Dan Tate and me on May 30. Although we only used seven pitons on the climb, all for safety, there was a quite diffi...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park (2)—On July 10, 1956 Jack Jay (26) and a companion had climbed Hallett Peak. In descending they were sliding down a snow field above Emerald Lake when Jay slipped, fell, and slid into the rocks below the snow...
A.A.C., New England Section. We had just one scheduled meeting in 1974, but Section members saw each other at several of the Appalachian Mountain Club and Harvard Mountaineering Club slide shows and dinners, with which we don’t and can’t compete. ...
Shivling, Attempt and Near Tragedy. Our expedition was made up of Surendra Chavan, Moreshwar Kulkarni, Rejesh Patade, Anil Sable, Sanjay Doiphode, Tushar Tonpe, Vivek Marathe and me as leader. A two-day trek took us to Base Camp at Topovan at 3975...
El Gran Trono Blanco, Northeast Face, Sierra Juárez, Baja California. A new climb via the pillar on the northeast fact was begun by Rob Dellinger, Brian Gregory and me. Four pitches were fixed during some exhilarating free and aid climbing on good...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, POOR POSITION, NO HARD HAT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside RouteOn June 12, 1994, Paul Luty (39) was descending the south side (Hogsback) route, when he lost control during glissade and slid/f...
The Alps in Fiction. To the list in A. A.J. iv, 458, one mayadd:Baum, Vicky. Marion Alive. Doubleday, 1941.Bradden, M. E. Asphodel. (The title of this thriller has been sent by Col. Strutt, who remembers it from his younger days. The club library ...
Mount Robson Traverse. On August 20 Michael Sawicky and I climbed the long snow and ice face on the north side of Mount Robson. Reaching the top of the face at two A.M. we continued through the ice formations of the narrow Emperor Ridge and arrive...
Homer’s Nose, “Dance of Topo-Usho”. In August Dave Ohst, John Tuttle and I climbed this exceptional route that ascends the great cleft (chimney) that splits the south face of Homer’s Nose. Start fifty feet right of an obvious water streak—the Blac...
The Desert, Various Activity. Jeff Achey and Irene Bloche made the first free ascent of the giant hoodoo Mexican Hat. The climb, which they called The Frito Route (5.12), begins ten feet left of the Bandito Route. The first two or three bolts are ...
FALLING ROCK, INEXPERIENCE—Wyoming, The Tetons. On August 4, about 11:30 p.m. Doug Calloway (17) was climbing the Owen Spalding Route on the Grand Teton a short distance above the Upper Saddle. A rock was dislodged by his partner’s rope while the ...
Mankial. In September a party of four Pakistanis and three westerners under the auspices of the Climbers Club of Lahore visited Swat state to make the fourth ascent of Mankial (18,750 feet). The leader was Mubarak Hussain. I do not know the names ...
AVALANCHE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS—WARNING NOTICES, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Lion Head TrailOn January 5, the body of Alexandre Cassan—one of four members in a party attempting an ill-advised winter ascent of the 6,288-foo...
Glacier Peak, Scimitar Glacier Variant. On July 21 and 22 Jim Corbin, Vinny Perone and I climbed the Scimitar Glacier route on Glacier Peak. Instead of going up the final headwall directly toward the summit, we traversed to the right on hard névé ...
STRANDED, CLIMBING UNROPED California, Echo ColOn March 11 Dave Kahn (25) and Steve Barnett (25) were cross-country skiing in the Bishop Creek drainage. When they reached Echo Col, about ten miles in from the roadhead, they were confronted by the ...
Monitor Peak, East Face, Needle Mountains. The second ascent of this spectacular 1200-foot wall, by a more direct route which started north of the original route, was accomplished on September 18 or 19 by Paul Stettner, Jr. and Larry Dalke. Stettn...