Sheep Rock, various ascents. Between August 2002 and July 2004 I climbed eight new routes on Sheep Rock in Gallatin Canyon, 20 miles south of Bozeman. Sheep Rock is the first major formation seen when entering the canyon, on the west side. Each ro...

FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIAAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 8, 1982, a four-member Denali East Ridge Expedition made the summit of Mount McKinley from their high camp (5520 meters) of four days at Denali Pass.On June 9, in cold, windy conditions...

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, MISCOMMUNICATIONColorado, Ouray Ice ParkIn January, a 140-foot fall at the Ouray Ice Park resulted in fatality for an experienced climber, Pete Ro, who was participating in a master’s ice climbing class with a g...

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE BELAY, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountain, Hermit MountainA party of six students and instructors from the National Cadet Camp at Banff were attempting Hermit Mountain on August 14, 1983. About ten meters from the s...

Alpamayo, Ferrari Route, Crowding. Heading to the Blanca for a classic route? Get ready to take a number and wait. After climbing the Ferrari Route on Alpamayo one day in early July, Jordan Campbell, Rick Leonadis, Charlie French, and I were aston...

Correction on Aguja Poincenot. On pages 212-215 of A.A.J., 1987, it incorrectly states that the climbers reached the summit of Aguja Poincenot. They reached the 1962 Anglo-Irish route some 300 meters from the summit. They did not, however, continu...

Manaslu Solo. I spent a couple of weeks on the Manaslu plateau at Advance Base (17,050 feet) to acclimatize before attempting the normal northeast-face route of Manaslu. On October 19 I left Base Camp all alone and got to Camp I at 21,000 feet at ...

Lhotse Attempt and Tragedy. A very strong Polish expedition, which included Krzysztof Wielicki and Jerzy Kukuczka was led by Janusz Majer. They established six camps and fixed much rope on the right side of the south face. Up to about 7600 meters ...

Point Peter, Northwest Face. It was reported that on March 15, Ulf Carlsson, Nicolas Ganzin and Ian Howell made the first ascent of the Northwest Face of Point Peter (4757m), a sharp granite spire below the north face of Mt. Kenya. The team took a...

Pirámide Blanca, Southwest Face, 1988. Geoffrey Bartram, Nevin White- law and David Peltier made a new route, the southwest face, on Pirámide Blanca (5230 meters, 17,159 feet) in the Cordillera Real in August, 1988.David Marshall

Mount Lituya. After many a rainy night in Juneau, Larry McGee of Channel Flying landed our trio at Cape Fairweather on a glacial lake above the beach. My wife Diana is quite feminine, Jim Nelson young and thin and I overweight and so our pilot was...

Aguja Guillaumet, Hard Sayin’ Not Knowing. On the morning of January 22, 2009, with a marginal weather report, Kate Rutherford and I left El Chalten and continued to the east face of Aguja Guillaumet. We looked at the Anker- Piola route, but it ha...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn August 20, 1988, Gert Hirst (48), Jim D’Allura (32), and Kevin Springer (28) were climbing on “The Blob” rock formation. They were attempting a new climbi...

Alpine Glaciers, by A. E. Lockington Vial. London: The Blatch- worth Press, 1952. (7½ x 10¼"). Price 30 shillings.It has been a pleasure to review Alpine Glaciers, written by a member of the British Glacialogical Society. Perhaps his description o...

Iowa Mountaineers. The club sponsored 19 week-end climbing outings to climbing areas in Iowa, Illinois, and Wisconsin. Ten 20-mile conditioning hikes were scheduled as well as several dozen shorter hikes. A number of seasonal social activities wer...

Peaks Above Palcacocha. I returned this year in July with my wife Jacqueline and Gérard and Monique Maillard. We established our base at Palcacocha at 14,700 feet. First, from a camp at 15,575 feet, we climbed Ishinca Chico (17,405 feet), between ...

Salcantay Tragedy. Steve Kelsey, a South African living in North Wales, and Briton Graham Whittaker were tragically killed when they fell while trying to climb a new route on the west ridge of Salcantay.

Shisha Pangma and Kukuczka’s 14th 8000er. Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person after Reinhold Messner to scale the world’s 14 highest mountains when he completed his ascent of Shisha Pangma. The 13-member international team, whic...

Harvard Mountaineering Club. Last summer was an extremely active one for the HMC, with members climbing in various parts of Europe and North and South America. The most ambitious venture was the Andean expedition, which is described elsewhere in t...

Satopanth Attempt. Koldo Aldaz, Juanito Cebriain and I set up Base Camp on Vasuki Tal at 4950 meters and Camp I at 5300 meters on July 31 and August 4.I fell sick and had to abandon the climb. Another of us had an accident and had to be evacuated....