Pigeon Spire, East Face Variation, Bugaboos. In August, 1978 Robin Kinnaird and I made a variant of the Kor-Cooper route on the east face of Pigeon Spire. We followed this fine route until we reached the long, left-facing dihedral near the center ...
The Catacomb and East Ridges of Mount McKinleyJoseph K. DavidsonAS I made new steps beside it, I noticed that the cornice fracture line was much wider than on the ascent twelve days before. Suddenly light appeared through the fracture line and a h...
Soviet Climbs in Asia, 1964. Also reported in Alpinismus are accounts of climbs done in 1964. B. Romanow led a group which first made the first ascent of a nameless 20,571-foot peak in the Tien Shan. They then made a new route on Khan Tengri (22,9...
WALTER ABBOTT WOOD1908-1993Walter Abbott Wood was born in Hoosick Falls, New York in 1908. He was educated at St. Paul’s School in Concord, New Hampshire and then for four years in Zürich, Switzerland, where he studied surveying and began his clim...
California, Joshua Tree National Monument (2)—William McAllister (45) was a member of a Long Beach church group which was camping at Indian Cove Campground on the weekend of November 12-13. McAllister, along with his wife, his church pastor, and o...
Sixth-Class Climbing in the Sawtooth RangeJack SchwablandTHAT part of the Sawtooth Range lying just west of the StanleyBasin in central Idaho is a wonderful place for the advanced rock climber to practise his art. It is a land of beautiful scenery...
FALLING ICE Washington, Mt. RainierDr. John DonLou (34), anesthesiologist from Palos Verdes, California, said today he is still “shell-shocked” over the loss of his right arm in a climbing accident on Mt. Rainier and doesn’t know what the future h...
Chopicalqui, Cordillera Blanca. On July 12 Dr. Alan Cooper, Jim Janney, Bill Phillips and I reached the previously unclimbed summit of the spectacular gendarme of approximately 20,000 feet which rises about 400 feet above the north ridge. Except f...
FALLING ROCKNew Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Sam’s Swan SongOn May 17, John Bouchard and Mark Richey were climbing fast in preparation for an attempt on the Himalayan peak Latok. High on the cliff, Mark was climbing second to John when a large flake M...
Chomo Lonzo North, southwest face to summit ridge. Although we left Kathmandu on April 15, it was not until the 24th that I arrived at my 4,750m base camp below Chomo Lonzo. There had been so much snow on the approach that in places I had to break...
Colorado Mountain Club. 1962 has been the Fiftieth Anniversary Year of the Colorado Mountain Club, and during the year the members joined an increased number of activities to promote climbing, to enhance mountaineering safety, and to make the gene...
Mount Redoubt, East Face, Ramparts. The great Rampart walls of Oubliette, Dungeon and Redoubt rise some 3000 feet above Amethyst Lake, one of the grandest sights in the mountains of Canada. The magnificent buttress on the east face of Redoubt seem...
The Three Gargoyles. This new tower route in Arches National Park is on the same formation as Zenyatta Endrada, around the right, or southeast, side, and was established by Jimmy Dunn, Hellen Heaven, Joe Slansky, and Bill Guymon. It climbs the tow...
Horn SpireCraig Lingle, UnaffiliatedTHIRTY miles north of Juneau, Horn Spire towers above the junction of the Thiel and Battle Glaciers. A triple-edged blade of rock, its 6700-foot summit stands 4700 feet above the valley glaciers below. Cliffs an...
Broad Peak Central from China Oscar Cadiach, Centre Excursionista de Tarragona, SpainDuring A THIRD SUMMIT ATTEMPT frustrated by bad weather, five of us were trapped for four days at Camp III at 7350 meters. Out of food and fuel, we had no choice....
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 31 January Peter Catelli, Peter Bradford, Craig Fournier, and Robert Koppe left the Glen House for a three day trip above timberline. Their planned route was to traverse the range from Mt. Madison to Crawford Notc...
Angel Wings, Right Wing. Chris LaBounty and I made the first ascent of the Right Wing (IV 5.10d) on Angel Wings on July 15. This route ascends the striking arête to the right (east) of the South Arête. We approached from the start of the South Arê...
SLIP ON SNOW, ICE AXES IN PACKS, FATIGUE Alaska, Mount McKinleyThe four members of the Utah Exploration Society flew into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier on May 4, 1983, to climb the Wickersham Wall on Mount McKinley. The expedition cli...
Achla Valley. The Kraków expedition led by Jerzy Wala, which has been described above as the first expedition in the Munjan Hindu Kush, was also active in the Achla valley, west of Sudgul village in the Landay Sin and three miles north of Barge Ma...
Baintha Brakk or The Ogre. Our expedition was made up of Kimio Itokawa, Shiro Aoki, Tetsuji Furuta, Toshiro Kitamura, Shosaku Kato, Masanobu Yonezawa and me as leader. We left Skardu on June 2 and traveled past Askole to Base Camp, which was estab...