PULMONARY EDEMA—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Edward Guleke (29) was a member of an expedidon which was organized privately and then contacted Alaska Mountain Guides (Ray Genet) for a guide to lead them up the West Buttress. They were flown in on June 20,...
FALL INTO CREVASSE—SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSE, POOR POSITION, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—NO BELAY OR FIXED ROPEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 28 at 1900, Dominic Marshall (25) and Reggie Perrin fell into a crevasse at 13,600 feet while ascendin...
Two years had passed since the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club tried the first winter ascent of Lhotse’s giant south face. The attempt, which took place in December 2001, eventually failed at 7,600m due to a biting winter blizzard. A sec...
Oregon, St. Peter’s Dome—On Sept. 15, Don McKay (36) and Joe Quigley (32) were making an attempt to climb St. Peter’s Dome by a new route. Both were extremely experienced climbers. From the saddle of the south side of the Dome they traversed aroun...
Our plan to climb Kamet was not the result of any snap decision. We had faced many challenges before, and although confidence was born from these experiences, so too was fear and anxiety. At 7,756 meters, Kamet is the highest climbable mountain in...
Cerro Pajonales. Our aim was to ascend Cerro Pajonales (5958 m), highest in the Pajonales chain north-northeast of the railroad station of Socompa. We reached the end of the motorable road at the Llano (plains) de Pajonales and then marched southw...
Die Schweiz auf alten Karten, by Leo Weisz. 227 pages, with 244 reproductions of maps (some in color), views and instruments, in addition to many unnumbered portraits. Zürich: Verlag der Neuen Zürcher Zeitung, 1945.No student of Alpine maps can af...
Taurus Peak: First Ascent. At 7 p.m., on 26 July 1946, Edward Little, Eugen Rosenstock-Huessy and A. C. Fabergé left the main A.C.C. camp for several days to attempt the first ascent of Taurus Peak (10,000 ft.), several miles S. of Bugaboo Pass. T...
El Capitan, Ned’s Excellent Adventure. In the sweltering heat of early August, Warren Hollinger and I established a new line on the southeast face of El Cap. We began three days after I topped out on the Porcelain Wall (see below) and climbed nine...
FALLS ON ROCK (4), CLIMBING UNROPED (3), FALLING ROCK—NO HELMETWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkThere were five reports of climbing accidents from Devil's Lake this year, three of which resulted in fractures. The falling rock incident resulted in...
Kliuchevskaya Sopka, Kamchatka. Our expedition consisted of Richard Wojtaszaewki, Alyson Starling, Huw Davies and me. After an ascent of Avacha (2900 meters) near Petro-Pavlovsk and a failure due to high winds on Koryaksky volcano (3200 meters), w...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEUtah, Little Cottonwood CanyonA group of four spelunkers were descending to the mouth of a small cave on May 26, 1980, when this accident occurred. Lori Huntley (18) began an unbelayed rappel with...
EXHAUSTION – UNABLE TO DESCEND, DEHYDRATION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn September 1, a Colorado Mountain School guide reported to park rangers that Tim Ashwood (40), a climber with cerebral palsy who ha...
Aeolian Tower, Sorcerer and Socerer’s Apprentice, Moab Area of Can- yonlands. Previously unreported is the first ascent of 225-foot Aeolian Tower, an Entrada sandstone formation resting atop the Carmel formation. Also known as Airport Tower, it is...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. On 4 July while approaching the summit Richard Springgate’s foot was frostbitten due to (1) cold temperature (-16°F), (2) boot lacings tied too tightly, and (3) inadequate insulation in boot. Rewarming performed at 16,800 fee...
Sheep Rock, various ascents. Between August 2002 and July 2004 I climbed eight new routes on Sheep Rock in Gallatin Canyon, 20 miles south of Bozeman. Sheep Rock is the first major formation seen when entering the canyon, on the west side. Each ro...
FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIAAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 8, 1982, a four-member Denali East Ridge Expedition made the summit of Mount McKinley from their high camp (5520 meters) of four days at Denali Pass.On June 9, in cold, windy conditions...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, MISCOMMUNICATIONColorado, Ouray Ice ParkIn January, a 140-foot fall at the Ouray Ice Park resulted in fatality for an experienced climber, Pete Ro, who was participating in a master’s ice climbing class with a g...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE BELAY, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountain, Hermit MountainA party of six students and instructors from the National Cadet Camp at Banff were attempting Hermit Mountain on August 14, 1983. About ten meters from the s...
Alpamayo, Ferrari Route, Crowding. Heading to the Blanca for a classic route? Get ready to take a number and wait. After climbing the Ferrari Route on Alpamayo one day in early July, Jordan Campbell, Rick Leonadis, Charlie French, and I were aston...