The Southeast Face of Mount TempleArthur Gran, Club de Montagne CanadienJohn Hudson and I had come to attempt the 4000-foot southeast face of Mount Temple, the tenth highest peak in the range. John, probably one of the most promising young mountai...

Gangotri I and III and Rudugaira. Of a ten-member expedition of the Corps of Electrical and Mechanical Engineers, Majors J.K. Bajaj, I. S. Kumar and S.L. Deora, Captains P.P. Rao and K.B. Sood, Havildar Kuldip Singh, Havildar Sherpa Natembu and Sh...

FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE, LOSS OF CONCENTRATION California, Yosemite Valley, Cathedral SpiresOn the evening of May 27, 1992, the park received a report of an accident on Higher Cathedral Rock. The reporting party had been on the Cathedral Spires at 1...

Hermann Buhl: Climbing without Compromise. Reinhold Messner and Horst Hofler. Translated by Tim Carruthers. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 2000. 205 pages. $24.95.Until this book, the only written material that was available for most of us on the li...

FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD, SEATED BELAYERColorado, Shelf RoadDespite the rain and a recent shoulder dislocation, Joe (32) and Chris (35) decided to keep their plans to climb at Shelf Road to celebrate the end of a hard semester of grad sc...

THE Dream: I am inside an impeccably constructed stone building with a high beam ceiling and a fifty-foot- wide level concrete floor. The only adornments are a huge stone fireplace and three beds with mattresses. I suddenly realize that the ...

Nameless Trango Tower, Eternal Flame Route. Our expedition was composed of Milan Sykora, Christoph Stiegler, Wolfgang Güllich and me. Our goal was to establish a new route on the south face of the Nameless Tower in free-climbing or Rotpunkt (red p...

Three Peaks Mountain (Mahindra), southeast summit, The Taming of the Shrew. Our four-man Russian team, Eugene Korol, Alex Soshnikov, Dmitrii Vlaznev, and I, intended to climb a virgin mountain via a route of the highest grade of difficulty (6B in ...

AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, UNDERESTIMATED CONDITIONS Alaska, Mount HunterOn May 5, 1994, Andy Carson and Charles Crago triggered an avalanche and were carried 800 feet down the route they were attempting on Mount Hunter.The team—totaling five peopl...

AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION Alaska, Mount HunterOn May 13, 1996, Marcus von Zitzewitz and Olaf Hecklinger were killed when an avalanche swept them off their climbing route on Mount Hunter.On May 5, four Germans, Peter Fresia, Franz Perchtold, Marcus ...

FRANCIS P. FARQUHAR1887-1974Francis P. Farquhar died at his home in Berkeley, California on November 21, 1974. Mountaineer, scholar, writer, book collector, and conservationist, he was a living institution at the hub of an ever expanding circle of...

Silverthrone. After we were landed by Doug Geeting in the spectacular Ruth Amphitheater, we skied eight miles to the base of an icefall, established our third camp at the top of the icefall, and skied around Silverthrone, gaining the summit ridge ...

Annapurna I, east ridge, third ascent. One of the most notable accomplishments of the season was the second two- way traverse of the east ridge of Annapurna I (8,091m). When the well-known Polish climber, Piotr Pustelnik, organized his four-man te...

Silverton and Monte Cristo Area. This area contains many minor summits with routes of moderate difficulty which provide enjoyable early season climbing. “Sawhorse Peak” (6880 feet) is located at the intersection of the ridge running east from East...

MARCUS MORTON1893-1989Marcus Morton was born on August 13,1893 in Newton Massachusetts, the third in the family to bear that name, the first being a distinguished governor of the Commonwealth. He attended Groton School and then Yale College, from ...

Irian Jaya, Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m), north face, Root Matrix.After summiting Carstensz, Charlie Mace, Erik Weihenmayer, and I had a spare day before a helicopter arrived to take us out. Erik graciously requested that Charlie and I try to establ...

Kingnait Fiord, Baffin Island. Our expedition of seven climbers arrived at Pangnirtung on July 25 and after seven hours on July 27 arrived by boat at the head of Kingnait Fiord. The region had been explored in 1972 and 1973 by Dr. G. Cochran’s exp...

Mount Zeke, Northwest Arête. In early April, local Natanuska Glacier pilot Billy Stevenson and I flew an aerial recon for Nova Adventure Company, scoping mountain and glacier routes for guiding. After looking at peaks in five major drainages, we f...

Cordilleras Real, Quimsa Cruz, and Calzada. Invited by the Bolivian president, then Dr. Víctor Paz Estenssoro, the Asociación Poblano de Excursionismo (Puebla Touring Association), supported by the Federatión Mexicano de Excursionismo, began its p...

The Mazamas. For The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, safety is the dominant theme in the club’s numerous mountaineering endeavors. Under the highest standards of safety, the Climbing Committee conducts mountaineering education programs, schedules and...