The Ascent of Mt. RedoubtJ. E. JohnsonTHE Rampart Range, lying 25 miles by trail southwest of Jasper, Alberta, is perhaps one of the most striking of all the groups that compose the Canadian Rockies. The name is well chosen, for the eastern and no...
STRANDED, RAPPEL ROPE JAMMED, WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett PeakOn July 3, 1993, Tor Anderson (20) and Brandon Latham (21) became stranded on the Northcutt-Carter Route III 5.7 on the North Face of Ha...
Kellas Peak (6,680m), attempt from south; Peak 6,252m. In autumn Graham Hoyland, Mark Lambert, Anindya Mukherjee, George Rodway, Dukpa Tsering Sherpa, Phurba Sherpa, Thend- up Sherpa, and I were fortunate to gain permission to enter northwest Sikk...
Colorado, Capitol Peak—On July 25, 1957, John W. Heckert, a student at Eileen Ginter and Richard A. Slusser left the Colorado Mountain Club’s camp at Snowmass Lake to explore a possible route to Pierre Basin and Capitol Peak. They left at 4:40 A.M...
The great Sahara desert, stretching for 2,500 miles across North Africa, has long presented a barrier, a tantalizing mystery and a challenge to European explorers and travelers. Concealed within the desert, remote mountains provided a refuge for v...
PULMONARY EDEMA—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Edward Guleke (29) was a member of an expedidon which was organized privately and then contacted Alaska Mountain Guides (Ray Genet) for a guide to lead them up the West Buttress. They were flown in on June 20,...
FALL INTO CREVASSE—SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSE, POOR POSITION, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—NO BELAY OR FIXED ROPEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 28 at 1900, Dominic Marshall (25) and Reggie Perrin fell into a crevasse at 13,600 feet while ascendin...
Two years had passed since the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club tried the first winter ascent of Lhotse’s giant south face. The attempt, which took place in December 2001, eventually failed at 7,600m due to a biting winter blizzard. A sec...
Oregon, St. Peter’s Dome—On Sept. 15, Don McKay (36) and Joe Quigley (32) were making an attempt to climb St. Peter’s Dome by a new route. Both were extremely experienced climbers. From the saddle of the south side of the Dome they traversed aroun...
Our plan to climb Kamet was not the result of any snap decision. We had faced many challenges before, and although confidence was born from these experiences, so too was fear and anxiety. At 7,756 meters, Kamet is the highest climbable mountain in...
Cerro Pajonales. Our aim was to ascend Cerro Pajonales (5958 m), highest in the Pajonales chain north-northeast of the railroad station of Socompa. We reached the end of the motorable road at the Llano (plains) de Pajonales and then marched southw...
Die Schweiz auf alten Karten, by Leo Weisz. 227 pages, with 244 reproductions of maps (some in color), views and instruments, in addition to many unnumbered portraits. Zürich: Verlag der Neuen Zürcher Zeitung, 1945.No student of Alpine maps can af...
Taurus Peak: First Ascent. At 7 p.m., on 26 July 1946, Edward Little, Eugen Rosenstock-Huessy and A. C. Fabergé left the main A.C.C. camp for several days to attempt the first ascent of Taurus Peak (10,000 ft.), several miles S. of Bugaboo Pass. T...
El Capitan, Ned’s Excellent Adventure. In the sweltering heat of early August, Warren Hollinger and I established a new line on the southeast face of El Cap. We began three days after I topped out on the Porcelain Wall (see below) and climbed nine...
FALLS ON ROCK (4), CLIMBING UNROPED (3), FALLING ROCK—NO HELMETWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkThere were five reports of climbing accidents from Devil's Lake this year, three of which resulted in fractures. The falling rock incident resulted in...
Kliuchevskaya Sopka, Kamchatka. Our expedition consisted of Richard Wojtaszaewki, Alyson Starling, Huw Davies and me. After an ascent of Avacha (2900 meters) near Petro-Pavlovsk and a failure due to high winds on Koryaksky volcano (3200 meters), w...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEUtah, Little Cottonwood CanyonA group of four spelunkers were descending to the mouth of a small cave on May 26, 1980, when this accident occurred. Lori Huntley (18) began an unbelayed rappel with...
EXHAUSTION – UNABLE TO DESCEND, DEHYDRATION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn September 1, a Colorado Mountain School guide reported to park rangers that Tim Ashwood (40), a climber with cerebral palsy who ha...
Aeolian Tower, Sorcerer and Socerer’s Apprentice, Moab Area of Can- yonlands. Previously unreported is the first ascent of 225-foot Aeolian Tower, an Entrada sandstone formation resting atop the Carmel formation. Also known as Airport Tower, it is...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. On 4 July while approaching the summit Richard Springgate’s foot was frostbitten due to (1) cold temperature (-16°F), (2) boot lacings tied too tightly, and (3) inadequate insulation in boot. Rewarming performed at 16,800 fee...