In summer 2009 Calle Martins, Mattias Sellden, Martin Urby, and I from Sweden spent four weeks in the Hermelndal at the head of the Tasermiut Fjord. The best-known climbed features in this valley are the Tininnertuup peaks II to IV. We set up camp...
This is the forty-second issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the eleventh that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: It seems to have been a bad year for loose b...
Gunnbjørns Fjeld, 1988, More Details. (This will help complete the report given in AAJ, 1989, page 164.) In addition to Greg Englefield, Nick Hulton,Lewis Jones and me, we were also accompanied by a film crew, Allen Jewhurst and Jan Pester. After ...
THOMAS J. GARGAN, SR.1920-1996During this past year we lost a dear friend and mentor, Thomas J. Gargan, Sr. He was born in Golden, Colorado, attended Golden High School, Notre Dame University and Regis College and received his Master’s degree in b...
ATRIAL FIBRILLATIONAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressJack Ziegler (50) registered with the National Park Service as a member of a Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., guided expedition, with Greg Collins being the lead guide. The...
Oschapalca, new route and various activity. After acclimatizing by guiding the Normal Route (PD) on Pisco (5,752m), the North Ridge (AD-) of Vallunaraju (5,686m), and the Normal Route (PD+/AD-) to the north summit (6,664m) of Huascarán, Chilean cl...
St. Elias Range, Yukon Territory. Members of the Sierra Club of California, Los Angeles Chapter, Jim Sutherland, Don Clarke, Bud Bingham, Barbara Lilley, and George Wallerstein, joined Bill Davis of the Colorado Mountain Club in Whitehorse August ...
THE Middle Triple Peak, a piece of rock and ice, was unclimbed. It stands to the west of Mount McKinley within a rugged complex of glacier and granite known as the Cathedral Spires of the Kichatna Mountains. “The Spires are probably North Americ...
Little Trango Tower, First Ascent, and Hainabrakk East Tower, Unfinished Symphony. Operating out of Shipton base camp in July, Joshua Wharton and Brian McMahon established new routes on two area towers. The PM Wall (V- 5.10+), named for Wharton’s ...
Coast Range Mountains, 1953. The Coast Range of British Columbia has long had a reputation for the magnificence of its mountains. It has equally long had a reputation for the severity of the approaches to these mountains. The classic pioneering, b...
There is no doubt that those who first climb Kanchenjunga will achieve the great feat of mountaineering, for it is a mountain which combines in its defences not only severe handicaps of wind, weather, and very high altitude, but technical climb...
On November 14 Jimmy Chin, Tim Kemple, Alex Honnold, Renan Ozturk, James Pearson (UK), and I arrived in N’Djamena, the capital of Chad. Our goal was to explore and climb in the Ennedi Desert, which lies in eastern Chad near the border with Sudan. ...
American Skiers in China’s Wild WestNed GilletteDICK DORWORTH AMBLES slowly through the ancient streets. He is unescorted except for the usual ragtag army of street urchins. A young Moslem who is not Chinese stops him. Pointing at this black-beard...
Iowa Mountaineers. During 1952 the Club sponsored an outstanding number of major activities. The Summer Camp in the Tetons attracted 41 participants. The Christmas holiday climbing outing to Mexico attracted 16 participants and culminated in the a...
High Adventure, by Edmund Hillary. 256 pages with 31 plates, 10 maps and drawings, and pen sketches by G. Djurkovic. New York: E. P. Dutton and Co., 1955. Price, $4.50.For decades adventure-minded readers have vicariously lived the struggles of gr...
A New Route on The Wickersham WallMOUNT McKINLEY, NORTH FACE DIRECTHenry L. AbronsWe sought a challenge on ice and rock. The Alaska Range is rich in possibilities, but after considering the time and cost of such a venture we inevitably faced the q...
Facing the Extreme: One Woman’s Story of True Courage, Death-Defying Survival and Her Quest for the Summit. Ruth Ann Kocour with Michael Hodgson. St. Martin’s: New York, 1998. 256 pages. $22.95.Facing the Extreme does not merit inclusion in the AA...
FOOTHOLD BROKE OFF – FALL ON ROCKIdaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Castle RockOn May 21 at 11:45 a.m., volunteer camp host Dottie Cross (63) broke a foothold and fell while attempting to lead the upper pitch of “One For Matt” on Castle Rock. ...
IgikpakDavid S. Roberts“THE LANDSCAPE was one of the bleakest imaginable,” wrote S. B. McLenegan in 1885. “Not a sign of life was anywhere visible, and the cold piercing blasts which swept across the tundra caused us to realize keenly the solitude...
Degrees of Difficulty. Vladimir Shatayev. Translated from the Russian by Deborah Piranian. Foreword by Pete Schoening. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1987. 194 pages, 13 black-and-white photographs. $10.95 (paper).In this book the great Soviet climber...