The Shining Mountain: Two Men on Changabang’s West Wall, by Peter Boardman, with material by Joe Tasker. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1978. 192 pages, 15 black-and-white photos, 12 color plates, 2 sketches. Price £5.95.The climb that may well be ...

Upernivik Island, West Greenland. Eight members of the University of St. Andrews, Scotland, spent seven and a half weeks on the compact mountainous island of Upernivik at 71 °N in the Umanak region of west Greenland. The island had been visited pr...

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Ouray, Ouray Ice ParkJohn Ohlson (61) was leading Pic O’ the Vic (WI 4) in the Ouray Ice Park. He led up to a stance at a cave—about 20 feet up, and placed an ice screw. He then cont...

First on the Rope, by Roger Frison-Roche. Translated by Janet Adam Smith. 246 pages. New York: Prentice-Hall, 1950. Price, $2.75.Written by a mountaineer and skier who is thoroughly familiar with the region of Chamonix, First on the Rope has alrea...

FALL ON SNOW—INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, OFF ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATEDCalifornia, High Sierra, Mount Ritter, Southeast GlacierOn August 9 the body of Otto Loenneker was found by Mono County Mountain Search and Rescue at the base of the Southeast Glacier on...

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. A Franco-German-Austrian expedition was led by Pierre Mazaud and composed of Michel Afanassief, Michel Berruex, Raymond Despiau, Kurt Diemberger, Hans Engl, Walter Cecchinel, Hubert Hillmaier and others. They climbed the...

Staunings Alper. Our Lancaster University (England) climbing expedition, consisting of Jim Taylor, Bill Band, and me, was organised in conjunction with the Northern Universities Natural Sciences expedition led by Dr. G. Halliday, and three of the ...

CLIMBING ALONE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alaska, Mount McKinleyBrian Hoover (26) registered with the Talkeetna Ranger Station on June 17,1987, to solo climb both the southeast ridge of Mount Foraker and the Cassin Ridge on Mount McKinley. Mountaineerin...

Tirich Mir. The Army Mountaineering Association Tirich Mir Expedition had as members of the party Corporal J. Anderson, Captains J. H. Cranmer, M. W. H. Day, G. F. Owens, B. K. Porter and R. A. Summerton, Surgeon Lieutenant P. N. Dilly, doctor, Ca...

Everest and Lhotse. Our 19-member expedition was led by Choi Chang-Min. I was the climbing leader. We prepared the way to Camp II, advancing through the Khumbu Icefall in partnership with the Americans. After Camp II at 6400 meters was set up on S...

FALLING ROCKS–DISLODGED BY CLIMBERS, PARTY SEPARATED, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchTwo separate parties (totaling four people) were climbing Avalanche Gulch in the poor September conditions (loose rocks, lack of snow). Unf...

Huandoy Norte and Este, Alexandra and Adam’s Variation. I arrived in Peru with the idea of climbing all four Huandoy summits. I came alone and decided to climb alone. I approached each Huandoy from the east (except when attempting the southwest fa...

Denali Arctic Environmental Project. This project was sponsored by the University of Oregon Outdoor Program, the Idaho State University Outdoor Program and the American Alpine Club. It was initiated in an attempt to contribute a new ethic in mount...

After four days acclimatizing in Puno, Hamish Dunn and I arrived in Macusani (4,300m), the nearest town to the southern side of the Carabaya, to discover that nobody spoke English or understood our limited Spanish. We were lucky to bump into Da...

Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. This fine range situated in northern Colombia, was visited in March, 1930, by Mr. and Mrs. Thomas D. Cabot. Although easily accessible from the eastern seaboard, and with peaks 19,000 feet in height, the range is almo...

The American Alpine Club 95th Annual Meeting, Bellevue, Washington, December 5-7, 1997. The energetic and diversified nature of world mountaineering was evident at the 95th Annual Meeting as the roughly 400 in attendance at the December weekend in...

Guide Vallot, Volume III — Aiguille Verte, Triolet, Dolent, Argentière, Trient, 3rd Edition, by L. Devies and P. Henry. Paris: Arthaud, 1966. 500 pages, 81 illustrations.This new edition is not merely an updated guide but a complete revision of th...

Bidhan, Third Ascent. Bidhan (6520 meters, 21,390 feet) was first climbed by Frank Smyth in 1937 and again by a Calcutta team in 1966. All ascents, including ours, were by the rather easy northwest spur. The peak lies at the head of the Deoban Gla...

Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1994. For the third consecutive year, a new record has been set for the number of mountaineers venturing up Mount McKinley. A multitude of 1277 climbers attempted the mountain during the 19...

Mount Everest, Discovery of the Body of George Mallory and Free Attempt of the Second Step. [On finding the body of George Mallory outside the search zone:] The probable location of the Chinese Camp VI, as defined by Jochen Hemmleb, was too high o...