The American Alpine Club 95th Annual Meeting, Bellevue, Washington, December 5-7, 1997. The energetic and diversified nature of world mountaineering was evident at the 95th Annual Meeting as the roughly 400 in attendance at the December weekend in...
Guide Vallot, Volume III — Aiguille Verte, Triolet, Dolent, Argentière, Trient, 3rd Edition, by L. Devies and P. Henry. Paris: Arthaud, 1966. 500 pages, 81 illustrations.This new edition is not merely an updated guide but a complete revision of th...
Bidhan, Third Ascent. Bidhan (6520 meters, 21,390 feet) was first climbed by Frank Smyth in 1937 and again by a Calcutta team in 1966. All ascents, including ours, were by the rather easy northwest spur. The peak lies at the head of the Deoban Gla...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1994. For the third consecutive year, a new record has been set for the number of mountaineers venturing up Mount McKinley. A multitude of 1277 climbers attempted the mountain during the 19...
Mount Everest, Discovery of the Body of George Mallory and Free Attempt of the Second Step. [On finding the body of George Mallory outside the search zone:] The probable location of the Chinese Camp VI, as defined by Jochen Hemmleb, was too high o...
Avenali Tower, first ascent, Avenali Avenue. The Avellano Towers are a remote, recently discovered group just northeast of Lago General Carrera in Chilean Patagonia. They comprise several low but rugged granite towers. The rock ranges from excelle...
Chogolisa, Northeast Ridge, and Broad Peak. Our original group, Mari Agrego, Josema Casimiro and I had hoped to climb together, but for reasons with the permissions, the first two had to join Renato and Goretta Casarotto; they climbed K2 as report...
1951–20032004Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCANADAAlberta490134102224811British Columbia2991106278414Yukon Territory342675112New Brunswick100000Ontario37967000Que...
L’InespéréeThe push for the top of a new route in Greenland’s Tasermiut Fjord by Lionel Daudettranslated by Alex Baer, Sébastien Gallison and Marina Heusch (from Montagne Magazine 3, October 1996)June 23, 1996.We’ve already spent 10 days on the we...
Kyokkiar and Sarybeles Mountains, first ascents. In August-September John Allen (UK), Peter Berggren (Sweden), Hilda Grooters (Holland), Tim Riley (UK) and I all climbed in the Gori Sarybeles and the Khrebet Kyokkiar of the far Western Kokshaal-To...
Mountaineers. The year 1971 marked the 37th Annual Climbing Program of the Seattle Mountaineers. As in recent years, three formal courses of instruction were offered to the membership. The courses extended from February through September beginning...
Noshaq (7,492m), first ascent in 25 years. The Oxus Mission, organized by Mountain Wilderness International, had two main goals: to show that it was again possible and not risky to visit the mountains of the High Hindu Kush in northeast Afghanista...
Gangotri I (6672m) ascent. Although this high peak south of Gangotri Temple has now seen many ascents, one on September 26 was notable. On that day 12 members of an all-women Indian expedition organized by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation reac...
In July and August, Saskia Groen, Vincent van Beek, Bas Visscher, and I explored a little-known range in the eastern part of the Pamir Alai, close to the Chinese border.This compact collection of steep alpine peaks, on a ridge running northeast to...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotalPersonsInvolvedInjuredKilledUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164019119...
First on Everest: The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine. Tom Holzel and Audrey Salkeld. Henry Holt, New York, 1986. 322 pages, black and white photographs. $19.95.In 1971 when Tom Holzel first proposed his theory that George Mallory may indeed have re...
Wall of Dikes, Central Pyramid, various first ascents. In July a team of two Irish climbers (Donie O’Sullivan and I) and four British (Ian Parnell, Mark Pretty, Dave Pickford, and Sam Whittaker) visited the Ak-Su Valley in the Karavashin region. T...
At 0840 on September 1, a 49-year-old climber arrived at the JVC Ranger Office to check out for a summit climb. After indicating he was planning to go alone, the climber was advised by Climbing Ranger Dan Ostrowski of the solo climb regulations an...
All 14 Eight-Thousanders. Reinhold Messner. Cloudcap Press, Seattle, 1988.247 pages, black and white and color photographs, route diagrams, map.$35.00.Messner has come a long way since I met him in 1976. I was then a shell-shocked dilettante on Al...
Pik 150th Anniversary of the British Alpine Club (4,836m), and four other first ascents; ski-mountaineering. In 2006 I was asked to organize a ski-mountaineering expedition as part of the celebrations of the 150th anniversary of the Alpine Club pl...