Chilean Patagonia, Various Ascents. Michael Pennings, Scott Lazar, and Cameron Tague reached the south summit of Torre Norte via a variation of La Ultima Esperanza on January 13, 1996. Our route was 1,500 feet, eight pitches, and 5.11 Al. On Janua...
Wheeler Crest, Stormy Petrel Route. Quite prominent among the line of granitic walls and towers between the desert floor and the top of Wheeler Crest is a pink-toned cliff on the left flank, above Wells Peak. Mike Warburton and I had tried a line ...
Robert Model Jr. 1973–2009I have still not quite come to terms with the truth that Bobby Model is dead. I knew Bobby for almost 20 years, traveled five continents with him, and tied in with him for hundreds of climbs. Bobby saved my life on a coup...
The Mountain of Storms—Dhaulagiri, 1960Norman G. DyhrenfurthLook here, Maurice, it’s absolutely unclimbable, that Dhaulagiri! It’s fiendishly difficult!“* Those were the words of Lionel Terray in 1950 as he reported the results of his reconnaissan...
The Valley Climbers, Yosemite’s Vertical Revolution. John Long, editor. Stonemaster Press, 2011. 99 photographs, most in color. 168 pages. Hardcover. $54.95.A coffee-table book with photos from improbable places, The Valley Climbers is organized a...
I’ll Call You in Kathmandu: The Elizabeth Hawley Story.Bernadette McDonald. Foreword by Sir Edmund Hillary. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2005. 24 pages of black & WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS, 2 MAPS. 256 PAGES. HARDCOVER. $24.95.For nearly five deca...
Clyde Minaret, Southeast Edge. After much consulting, Joel Richnik and I were pleasantly surprised to find no recorded ascent of the beautiful line that runs just right of the southeast edge proper of Clyde Minaret. The route begins near the base ...
Glacier National Park, Mt. Jackson, Shades of Gray and Alpenglow. Visiting, with limited time, Anna Jansen sought to climb a mountain over the weekend. Excited by high pressure, we made for Glacier. The following day our friends Jeff Shapiro and G...
Shivling, East Pillar, and Bhagirathi II Tragedy. On May 7 ten of us, from various parts of the world, met in Delhi en route to the Gangotri. We were Georges Bettembourg, French, Greg Child and Rick White, Australians, Mervyn English, New Zealande...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF ARREST, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount MoranJoseph Boots Allen, Justin Watsabaugh and Micha Thompson left a camp in a snow cave near the base of the Skillet Glacier on Mount Moran (12,605 ...
AVALANCHE, CLIMBING ROPEDOregon, Mount HoodOn Monday, May 24, 1982, a Mazama climbing party left Timberline Lodge (2000 meters) at 0030 for a climb of the Leuthold Couloir Route. The group consisted of leader Bob Williams (34), assistant leader Ba...
Mapping McKinley’s Southeast ApproachesBRADFORD WASHBURNFew living persons have enjoyed the privilege of spending a month in the magnificent Great Amphitheater or Basin of Ruth Glacier. Lying between the vertiginous granite crags of the Great Gorg...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONUtah, Indian CreekDuring the first week of April, Paul Sullivan, Ian Herring, Matt Pinkley, Bill Saul, and I (40) hit the ground running on our first day. Really, Matt and I had never been in an environment like ...
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades). 2006 was a relatively slow year in southwest British Columbia, with few new routes to report compared to previous years. In part this reflects the ending of the spurt of ...
Mount Logan—East PeakDavid A. Collins and Gilbert J. RobertsTHE airdrop of supplies at the foot of Mount Logan, North America’s second highest mountain, was the most thrilling bit of flying we had ever experienced. In two flights with a Yakutat-ba...
Our basecamp at just over 5,000 meters was the highest I’d ever had, and not being a quick acclimatizer I was still nursing a throbbing headache after the first week. Potentially I might have been looking even less healthy than our liaison officer...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBER COLLISION, CRAMPON INJURY Yukon Territory, Saint Elias Range, Mount LoganOn June 1, 1986, a party of four was climbing the East Ridge of Mount Logan. They began climbing at 1100, after about 60 hours of snow, with an accumula...
AMS AND FRACTUREAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressIn June, lead guide Bill Allen of the guiding concession Mountain Trip brought client Joanne Devenish (42) to the 14,200-foot medical camp because she was turned around short of the summit, abou...
Howse Peak, Howse of Cards. In December Will Gadd, Kevin Mahoney, and I made the first complete ascent of the east face of Howse Peak. After the excitement over M-16 (Backes-Blanchard-House, 1999) and the gauntlet that was thrown down with “twice ...
JOSEPH HENRY SCATTERGOOD 1877-1953J. Henry Scattergood, a Founding Member of the Club, died June 15, 1953. He was born in Philadelphia and took degrees from both Haverford College and Harvard University. After graduation he began work with the Ame...