Ecuador: Tierras Atlas.Jorge Anhalzer. Imprenta Mariscal, Quito, 1987. 154 pages, 120 color photographs, 1 sketchmap. Hardbound.Frontera Superior de Colombia.José F. Machado et al. Banco de Occidente, Bogotá, 1987. 183 pages, 146 color photographs...
Fear and Loathing. In early September, Dan Stih, Paul Reinshagen and I climbed a new 400- meter route in Oak Creek Canyon, just north of Sedona, Arizona. The wall is located just behind Christopher’s Tower, high in Counterfeiter Canyon. The line, ...
Halletts Peak, Direct Second Buttress. In June of 1963 Tex Bossier and I completed this new route, which lies between the Jackson-Johnson and the Kor-Benneson routes. We first climbed a steep crack and then traversed right for 40 feet to a belay. ...
Canadian Rockies North FacesAssiniboine and Edith CavellChristopher A. G. JonesThe mystery of life is not a problem to be solved, but a reality to be experienced.—Van Der LeeuwThe Fourth of July is a thin time for climbers in Yosemite, for with it...
Wizards of Rock: A History of Free Climbing in America. Pat Ament. Berkeley: Wilderness Press, 2002. 381 pages. Paperback. $24.95.Pat Ament has always been an artist, whether he is focusing on chess, music, the martial arts, writing, or climbing. ...
Up and Down Great Trango TowerGoing light on a stormy new route and harrowing descent in Pakistan.Gabo CmÁrik and Dodo KopoldDodo Kopold: An ascent of Great Trango Tower meant more to me than all the routes I had done before. It was a big dream, a...
Pachyung Ham (6,529m), Gang Dzong Kang (6,123m), first ascents. The Kansai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club (JAC) sent an academic and mountaineering expedition to West Tibet in 2004 in commemoration of the JAC’s 100th anniversary, which comes ...
Twenty years ago, when I first hiked up the Torre Valley, the steep towers of the Cerro Torre massif loomed as if they were the cathedrals of a foreign religion. They looked distant, cold, and unattainable. Initially, merely hiking up the glacier ...
Mount Everest—The Best Writing and Pictures from Seventy Years of Endeavour. Edited by Peter Gillman with a forward by Sir Edmund Hillary. Little Brown & Co. Boston, 1993. $35.What has been prominently missing in the profuse literature of the ...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry Spire (2)— On August 24, a climbing party led by Sterling Neale (22) of the Exum Mountaineering Concession, Janet Crane (18), Tom Lightburn (12), Steve Howse (17), and John Manley (17), had completed a ...
Mount Temple, North Face Direct. A climber driving the Banff-Jasper highway will not miss the huge north face of Mount Temple. To Jeff Lowe and me the center rib, attempted by Abrons, Eberl and Roberts in 1969 (A.A.J., 1970, 17:1, pp. 82-3), which...
FALLING ROCK, HYPOTHERMIA, BAD WEATHERAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LouisOn November 20, 1980, after a late start and a somewhat slow ascent, Steve Langley and two companions, Lorene and Jay, reached the summit of Mount Louis, where they met Hel...
Aconcagua, South Face. We arrived at Plaza de Mulaz on December 26. We made our first attempt on the normal route up to c.6500 meters on December 31, but returned because of storms and deteriorating weather. On January 3,1997, we summited via the ...
To the Unknown Mountain by Wilfrid Noyce. London: Heineman, 1963. xii and 183 pages, 19 photographs. Price 21 s.Trivor (25,370 feet), above the Gharesa Glacier in the western Karakorum, was Noyce’s unknown mountain and a worthy find. Perhaps from ...
Latok II Attempt, and Ascents of Ogre Thumb and Spaldang. It was reported that a German expedition powered by the bold young climber Alexander Huber reached a height of 6600 meters on Latok 2 before turning back in the face of unsettled weather an...
East Peak, Mount Logan. During June and July Albert Nickerson, Jr., Leif Patterson, Edward Carman, Jr., Walter Gove and I made the third ascent of the east ridge of the east peak of Mount Logan. All except Gove are members of the Harvard Mountaine...
Castle Rock Spire. In September TM Herbert and Tom Frost did a new route on the face of Castle Rock Spire. The climb follows a crack system that eventually connects with the original route about two-thirds of the way up the face. The first two pit...
Vallunaraju Group, Cordillera Blanca. On July 28 seven Americans left Huaraz and climbed up the Quebrada Mullaca to establish Base Camp at Lake Mullaca. That same afternoon they began the reconnaissance of the lower icefall. On the next morning Sa...
Hummingbird Ridge’s Thunderbird VariationDavid Nettle, UnaffiliatedThe Logan Effect: A phenomenon whereby everything you see is actually four times longer, steeper and more difficult than it appears. See also: The Hummingbird Ridge.STANDING BY THE...
The High Sierra: Wilderness of Light. Photography by Claude Fiddler. Foreword by David Brower. Introduction by Steve Roper. Chronicle Books, San Francisco. Hardcover, 132 pages, color and black and white photography. $25.00.The High Sierra: Wilder...