Puscanturpa Group. Climbers from Varese led by Luigi Ossola made a new route on the northwest face of Puscanturpa Noroeste. They also climbed Puscanturpa Sur by its south ice face and Puscanturpa Central by its west face and south ridge. Because o...
Donnell Reservoir, Moonshadow, Stanislaus National Forest. A 1500-foot wall lies on the north side of Donnell Reservoir just off Highway 108. The unique approach to the wall requires a canoe and is about as close to sea-cliff climbing as one can g...
New Routes in Pinnacles National Monument. Lifeline follows an indistinct water chute on the Hand, about 20 feet right of the Salathé route. There are many bolts. (I, 5.10b.) Peregrine ascends in four pitches the farthest west and most massive wat...
Kamet. A 25-man expedition of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police led by Sohan Lal left Joshimath on April 10 and, hampered by snow, got to Base Camp at 15,550 feet on April 25. Camp I was set on April 29. Then came blizzards. As they moved to Camp III...
Previous History of Gunnbjørns Fjeld. James Lowther has been kind enough to supply us with further data about Gunnbjørns Fjeld. After Gino Watkins’ expedition of 1930-31 had spotted the peak, Martin Lindsay fixed its position in 1934 during his re...
Diran, Ascent. Adrian Burgess and Rob Ziegler made the first American ascent of Diran (23,838') on July 10. The mountain was climbed in alpine-style over three days; we climbed the final 4,800 feet in eight hours to summit at midday. Base Camp was...
Tilitso. Our expedition consisted of Max Jeanpierre, Michel Laurent, Roger Laot, Denis Jeanvoine, Dominique Moutel and me as leader. I give a word on our approach and return. We followed the classic route to Manang in seven days. It takes a couple...
Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca. Our party consisted of Ernest and Richard Hildner, Ernest Kuncl, and me. During a brief trip into Quebrada Ishinca we ascended two peaks, Ishinca (18,143 feet) on July 20, and Urus Este (18,012 feet) on July 23. A ...
Panwali Dwar. An Indian group from Bombay’s Pinnacle Club, led by P.B. Bodhane, made the second ascent of Panwali Dwar (6663 meters, 21,860 feet.) They climbed the southeast ridge, joining the 1980 Japanese first-ascent route on the summit ridge. ...
Hanuman. This ladies’ expedition climbed Hanuman (19,930 feet) above the Rishi gorge. Camp I was established on June 21 at the foot of Rishikot at 17,000 feet. Camp II was set up the next day at 18,000 feet. Although the weather turned bad on June...
Bighorn Peak, Northeast Face, Bighorn Mountains. This face is nearly two miles long and varies in height from 800 to 1300 feet. It embraces two cirques. On August 20 I climbed the southern cirque, starting at the waterfall which dominates the cent...
FALL ON ICE, FAILURE TO TEST ICE TOOL PLACEMENT, ICE TOOL PULLED OUT, INATTENTIONNew Hampshire, Crawford Notch, Hitchcock GullyOn January 9, 1992, my partner, Charles Narnold (22) and I (21) went ice climbing, after spending the night in the AMC h...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Reconnaissance from the North. There were two Japanese expeditions that approached Gasherbrum I from the Chinese side. The first one conducted by Masaaki Fukushima and Jin Tamada from the Yokohama Alpine Association spen...
Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m), first alpine-style ascent from the north; Turka Himal (ca 5,800m). In early April Blue Eisele, Curtis Gray, and I visited the Dhaulagiri Range, hoping to climb a new route on the north side of Churen Himal (7,371m). To ge...
Mount Denison, Katmai National Monument. A professor and six students or graduates of Denison University in Ohio made the first ascent of Mount Denison, which had been named for the university in 1923. A first attempt in August, 1977 was unsuccess...
Colorado, 1977. The winter of 1977 was unusually dry and warm. Above 10,000 feet there was little snow accumulation, although it was frequently cold and windy. Because of a rainy summer and fall, ice was everywhere; many could enjoy the gullies ...
Peaks on the East Side of the Ruth Gorge. Dave Johnston, Dave Grimes and I did what is probably the first ascent of three minor peaks on the east side of the Ruth Gorge. In April we walked up the east side of P 7350 and the southeast ridge of P 75...
Alaska and the YukonMt. McKinley: A Proposed New Route. In a somewhat unusual article published in the 1947 A.A.J., I discussed two possible new routes up Mt. McKinley.1 Since then, I have flown around the mountain on numerous occasions; and in 19...
Quebradas Honda, Ishinca, Qelkaywanka, Llanganuco. The Alpine Club of Canada expedition consisted of H. Bussey, S. Heiberg, D. Heslop, R. Montgomery, P. Ritzema, my wife, C. McNamara, R. Nagy and me. The first area visited was the Quebrada Cancahu...
Soviet Climbs in Asia, 1963. Russian climbers continue to be active in the high mountains of Asia. Reported in Alpinismus were the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Pik Engels (21,359 feet) in the southwest Pamirs by a group of six Moscow cli...