William J. Mosconi 1951-2003Bill Mosconi began his climbing career relatively late; he was nearly 30. He learned to ski in the Alps and tried sky diving. With characteristic pragmatism, Bill sought the best climbing mentor available to him, hiring...

JAMES HUNTER HOLLOWAY1934-1992J. Hunter Holloway was killed on April 30, 1992 in a car crash near Donnellson, Iowa.Hunter was many things to many people and organizations. He was a veteran wire-service journalist and government communicator, most ...

Qungmo Kangri, first solo and first alpine style ascent, via south ridge. After a month of mountaineering in the central part of the Nyanchen Tanglha, Gerhard Gindl and I went to the far southwestern end of the range to make a reconnaissance of Qu...

Czechoslovakian-American Exchange. In September 1982 Mark Wilford, Rick Powell and Matt Kerns visited Czechoslovakia and concentrated on sandstone areas which had been a cradle of free-climbing. In return the American Alpine Club invited us to Ame...

Washington climbing, trends and new routes. In recent years alpine climbing in the Washington Cascades has become less exploratory. First ascents are still being made but less frequently. However, speed ascents and enchainments have become more po...

Mount Kabru, Attempt and Tragedy. The members of the Slovenian expedition to Mount Kumbhakarna East (a.k.a. Jannu East, 7468 m) in the fall were Bojan Pockar, leader, Ziga Petric and Anda Perdan, the doctor. Bojan and Ziga were planning to climb t...

Mounts Balchen and Geist, Alaska RangeDusan JagerskyIT was with the first break in the weather that we left. Until then we had been staring patiently from our tents at the end of the Delta Junction runway at the Alaska Range, a mirage against the ...

“Avanarsuasua*,” Exploration. The 1998 Euro-American North Greenland Expedition returned for the third time in a series of expeditions (1995, Schmitt, Deuel; 1996, Schmitt, Skafte) to further the exploration of this northernmost peninsula of the ...

K2, Attempts. It was reported that a seven-man group (Rick Allen, Andy Parkin, Mike Smith, Harry Taylor and Brian Tilly, U.K., plus Maciej Berbeka, Poland) planned to attempt the unclimbed east face. Some members reached ca. 6500 meters on the sou...

Whitesides Mountain, Children of the Sun. Mark Ilgner and I had been working on a new line on Whitesides Mountain for two years. We finally completed it in December. The route climbs the left side of the headwall section, beginning between Ship of...

White Needle, on Artificial Legs, and Nun. In 1946 Major R. Berry, Captain Ralph James and Major Tom Stobart attempted to make the first ascent of Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) via the east ridge. They climbed the White Needle (6550 meters, 21,49...

Parque Nacional Huascarán, Cordillera Blanca, PeruMichael J. RourkeTHE Parque Nacional Huascarán, situated in the northern Peruvian Andes approximately 400 kilometers (240 miles) north of Lima, embraces the entire Cordillera Blanca (with the excep...

Aguja Poincenot, Northwest Buttress, 1986. Above a prominent pedestal to the left of the 1977 Carrington-Rouse route, the Italian route ascended some 2000 feet of sustained difficulties. The ascent was made between December 6 and 8, 1986 by Italia...

The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee, chaired by Doug Wilson, scheduled 292 climbs in the summer season and 16 winter climbs. The climbing schools enrolled 200 students in Basic Mountaineering, 44 in Intermediate, 18 in Advanced Rock, and 12 in Adv...

Coronation Everest, by James Morris. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co., 1958. 145 pages; ills. Price $3.75.What, another Everest book? Yes, and a good one, too! In fact, one of the most readable of all. Although James Morris didn’t climb the mounta...

With the help of the McNeill-Nott and Mountain Fellowship grants, Blake Herrington and I spent ten days exploring peaks around the Scud Glacier of the Stikine Region in late July and early August. We flew 50 miles west from the Cassiar Highway ...

Lou Whittaker: Memoirs of a Mountain Guide. Lou Whittaker with Andrea Gabbard. Seattle: The Mountaineers. 1994. 271 pages. $24.95.Rock Jocks, Wall Rats, and Hang Dogs: Rock Climbing on the Edge of Reality. John Long. New York: Fireside/ Simon and ...

Washington, Cashmere Crags, Razor Back. The Mazama party climbing in the Cashmere Crags, May 27 - 30, consisted of five club members; Jim Craig, leader, Verner (Pete) Setala, assistant leader, Elmer McCor-mick (41), William Pratt, and Scott Arighi...

Quvernit Island, seven virgin summits and nine new long granite routes. At the end of July a seven-member-strong group from Switzerland and Germany started on a six-week climbing expedition to the South of Greenland. The target of our group was fi...

Mounts Logan, Queen Mary, McArthur and Hubbard, Icefield Ranges, Kluane National Park Reserve. During the 1991 climbing season, there were 16 groups that climbed or skied in the park. A total of 83 people spent 1497 person-days in the mountains. A...