Churen Himal Attempt. A French expedition led by Gérard Grossan attempted Churen Himal (7371 meters, 24,184 feet) by the southeast face to the east ridge, hoping to reach the east peak. After establishing five camps, they reached 23,450 feet on No...
On September 5 the two of us set out to attempt two western Chugach peaks we thought might be unclimbed. From Richard’s home, we hiked up the North Fork of Eagle River and Twin Falls Creek before setting Camp 1 at Blue-Eyed Lake. The next day we c...
Red Rocks Select, Second Edition. Todd Swain. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1996. 246 pages. $25.00.Comment: Swain’s second edition contains nearly 800 routes, 300 more than the first edition and nearly four times the number included in J...
Services of the Arctic Institute of North America. Although many of our readers are familiar with AINA, it seems appropriate to call their attention to the Institute’s library and its major publication, the Arctic Bibliography. Its Canadian office...
Gaurishankar, Northeast Ridge, Attempt. Gaurishankar (7134m) lies on Nepal’s northern border with Tibet; it is visible from Kathmandu on the northeastern horizon, and it was once thought to be the world’s highest mountain until the British Survey ...
El Ermitaño and Peña Blanca, Northern Andes. These two peaks were ascended by an expedition of the Club Andino de Chile. The group travelled from Santiago to Copiapó and turned east to cover the last 130 miles in a jeep along the international roa...
Cerro Castillo, 1987. On January 26, 1987 my husband Gino Buscaini and I climbed an 800-meter-high, snow-and-ice couloir which had an angle of 55° in the upper part of the west face of Cerro Castillo (Coyhaiquel; 2670 meters) in Chile. We climbed ...
Great Trango Tower, Northwest Face, Lost Butterfly. Our expedition was planned to be a first ascent of the (presumed) highest big wall on earth, the nearly 2000-meter northwest face of the Great Trango Tower. With this project we garnered the Pola...
Istor-o-Nal and Other Peaks. A Czech expedition was led by Tibor Šurka. On June 25 Jožo Psotka, Juraj Zatkov and Ivan Fiala climbed Bajpash Zom (c. 22,000 feet) in the northern part of the Tirich group. On July 13 Pstoka and Milan Mereš climbed to...
Mount Everest. Our expedition on the south east ridge of Everest consisted of Brian Agnew, Peter Allen, Paul Bayng, Norm Crookston, Pat Cullinan, Chris Curry, Tony Delaney, Bruce Farmer, Charlie Hart, Peter Lambert, Terry McCullagh, Rick Moor, Joh...
South Howser Spire, East Face, Bugaboos. On the left side of the gully first climbed by Beckey and Chouinard in 1961 lies a large buttress that extends from the bottom to the top of the east face of South Howser Spire. Its most conspic uous featur...
Kamet. An Indian expedition led by Pradyut Chatterjee is said to have made a successful ascent of Kamet, but at this time there are no details.
Cordon de los Pioneros, Pico Bicentenario (6,092m). In November 2010 Guillermo Almaraz, Lelio de Crocci, Eduardo Namur, Juan Labra, Daniel Pontin, and Claudio Valva (Argentina) made the first ascent of Peak 6,092m in the northern part of the Cordo...
Gasherbrum IV Attempt. A British expedition consisted of David Lampard, leader, his wife Rhoda, Andrew Atkinson, Alan Phizacklea, Alan Scott, Alan Shand, Christine Watkins and Bob Wightman, They first attempted the west ridge but gave up at 6600 m...
Chau Chau Kang Nila (6304m), ascent. This popular peak in Spiti was climbed by Dipankar Ghosh’s West Bengal expedition, which included three handicapped persons.Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The Himalayan Journal
Nilkantha Attempt. I joined Fred Beckey, Jim Ruch, Greg Collum and Seth Shaw on an attempt on the southeast ridge of Nilkantha. We hiked for 2½ days up the valley from Badrinath, and with the help of local shepherds made Base Camp at 14,000 feet o...
California, Echo Summit Area—Sometime in November, Earl B. Seibert was killed while climbing alone near the south end of Lake Tahoe. A search party found the body at the base of a sheer cliff from which a rope was hanging.Source: National Skiing, ...
Hagshu Attempts. The usual approaches to the Kishtwar area have been restricted, forcing a long route via Lahul or Zanskar. A Spanish expedition led by Cristobal Real Gil approached via the Umasi La from Zanskar. They established Camp I at 5700 me...
HENRY S. FRANCIS JR.1930-1990Harry, as he was known to all, except possibly his parents, died at home on October 7, 1990. Though his fatal cancer had been diagnosed in the spring, he quickly came to grips with it and enjoyed the rest of his life. ...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. AlbertaOn August 1, 1979, Archie Ellis and two companions, all of Calgary, were descending Mt. Alberta. They had set up a rappel with Ellis coming last. Their rappel rope broke and...