Tirich Mir via West Spur of Tirich Mir West. Our expedition again climbed alpine-style and consisted of only Gianni Calgagno and me. We first climbed Tirich Mir (25,290 feet), as a training climb, by the 1967 Czech route from the northwest col, us...

Norbu Kang (6,005m), second ascent. On September 7 Isolde Frei, Anna Wirbel, Edmund Wirbel, Dorje Lama Tamang, and Tendi Sherpa made the second ascent of Norbu Kang. This Austrian-Luxemburger team followed the 2002 Japanese route on the north face...

Chicago Mountaineering Club. Activities continued much the same as in years past. The membership now stands at 146 with 57 qualified rope leaders.The club held local climbs about once a month throughout the year. Most of these were held at Devils ...

Mount Spurr. The icefall which skirts the east of Crater Peak provided a new route to Mount Spurr’s summit. After landing on winter snow south of Crater Peak, we attacked the icefall on March 25. Marginal weather provided an ethereal setting as sé...

El Capitan, The Dihedral Wall. On June 6, after 5 days of difficult aid climbing, Tom Frost and I completed the first continuous ascent of the Dihedral Wall, otherwise known as the direct southwest face of El Capitan. We passed our first night in ...

Here are the events leading up to the rescue of the nine climbers, from three parties, from Camp 6 on the Nose. Quotations have been edited. The American party consisted of Dean Freeman (34), Craig DeMartino (29), Tom Nonis (37), and Karen Ba...

Arctic Manual. Two paper-backed volumes prepared under direction of the Chief of the Air Forces, United States Army. 536 pages. No illustrations. Washington: U. S. Government Printing Office, 1940. Price 70 cents per set.While reading the Arctic M...

Cloud Peak, East Face, Bighorns. On July 2, I climbed a couloir to the left of the sheer, blank section of the east face, solo. It was 45° ice and snow. It should be climbed in August as wet snow slides were frequent when I was in the couloir. Lat...

P 7500 (“Hound’s Tooth”). On June 15 Dan Cauthorn and I in three hours climbed P 7500 via its west snow slope and rock scramble from the Buckthorn Glacier. The peak lies north of the Broken Tooth and east of the Moose’s Tooth. We propose the name ...

Cho Oyu, Foresummit, and Shisha Pangma, Central Summit. On August 30, Jan Harris, Jim Jennings, Dan Langmade and I arrived at the 5400-meter roadhead Base Camp for Cho Oyu. We established Advance Base at the junction of the Gyabrak and Nangpala Gl...

Chilkoot Range. George Barnett, Dr. Russell Batt, William Bendy, Dr. Jurgen Meyer-Arendt, Dan Reeder, Dr. Thomas Stengle, Charles Warren and I as leader climbed in the Chilkoot range along the international boundary adjacent to the south branch of...

Haverford Mountaineers. The Club now has 18 members, with Archibald Macintosh as faculty advisor. Activities center in training on near-by cliffs. Plans for the future include a possible trip to the Canadian Rockies in 1952.Peter Wood

Nevado Alpamayo. In July, Glenn Garland and I climbed Alpamayo in 11 days, round trip from Colcas, including two rest days. The route to the north col, over the glaciers from the west, was very complicated due to low snowfalls the previous season,...

Hindu Kush. An expedition from North Germany climbed in the Hindu Kush, possibly in the Koh-i-Chebrek region, and made the ascents of some 16 peaks, all of them less than 20,000 feet. The leader was Josef Ruf.

Sisne Himal, Kanjiroba. The two-man team of Captain Richard A.L. Anderson of the British Army and Andrew C.F. Russell was assisted by a lone Sherpa. They had set up Base Camp at 12,600 feet on the 22,505-foot peak. The weather was not good in the ...

Mount Heyburn, Northwest Ridge. Beckey and Fuller climbed about two-thirds of the way up the northwest ridge and then traversed into the north face where they found some fine class five pitches to the top. A few days later Fuller took me up the sa...

Committee for the Protection of the Environment of the Cordillera Blanca. This Peruvian committee has been formed in order to combat the deterioration of the trails, campsites, woods, lakes and glaciers of the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera ...

Aconcagua, South Buttress of South Summit. In January, a Slovene expedition of 15 members first spent ten days acclimatizing by climbing Mirador (5500 meters, 18,045 feet). They then split into three groups. The first, including a woman member, Ta...

Cuerno principal, Paine group. A light Chilean expedition, made up of four university students, attempted the main horn of the Paine, locally known as Cuerno Principal del Paine (2110 meters or 6890 feet). The group was led by Eduardo García who h...

Mount Hood, North Face. On July 11,I made a quick ascent of Mount Hood, climbing 5300 feet in 3¼ hours, to take a peek down the north face at the Eliot Glacier Headwall. Conditions were ideal for soloing with clear skies, below-freezing temperatur...