Wyoming: (1) Teton Range. At noon on 19 July 1950, a party of four was returning from the Teton Glacier by the normal route. This requires crossing a steep slope on the north side of Disappointment Peak This was largely covered by hard packed snow...
The weekend of June 4-5, the G.A.M (Grupo de Alta Montaña) de los Perros Alpinos went to the sector Queltehues – Las Melosas, near Santiago but very seldom visited by climbers, mostly due to private companies prohibiting access. On the map w...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT,CLIMBING ALONE Arizona, Wilson CanyonOn February 25, 1988, Damien Glassy (30s) had ascended the standard Wilson Mountain Trail (south) to the summit of Wilson Mountain by himself. He had on minim...
Trango Attempts. Two Japanese expeditions both failed to climb the easternmost of the Trango Towers (5753 meters, 18,875 feet) by its southwest buttress. The first party, led by Yoshimitsu Takatori, in June got to about 1000 feet from the summit. ...
Climbing in the Icefield Ranges of Kluane National Park Reserve. The 1993 season was characterized by relatively mild weather during June and July. Many expeditions reported unusually warm temperatures, higher than normal firn lines and unstable s...
Shark’s Nose, North Face. The north face of Shark’s Nose, immediately above the notch adjacent to Overhanging Tower, offers a direct ascent of about 600 feet. Though it has been used for descent, the face had never been scaled prior to this summer...
Brakk Zang, Ganyips. From June 28 to July 5, Pep Masip and I put up a new route on the southeast face of a virgin mountain named Brakk Zang (4800m) in one of the secondary Hushe valleys of the Pakistan Karakoram. We called the route Ganyips (VI 6a...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. After the successes on Gasherbrum I and II in 1985 and Broad Peak and K2 in 1986, the Quota 8000 climbers turned in the summer of 1987 to the 1962 German route on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. We were Italians leader ...
Chulu East, South Buttress, 1988. On November 25, 1988, Sara Ballantyne, Nuru Wangchu and I stood on the summit of Chulu East. We believe we had made the first ascent of the triangular-shaped south buttress, 2000 feet of 60° ice. Approach camps we...
Palcaraju Oeste. Our expedition was composed of Josep Piera, leader, Albert Altet, Lluís Ambròs, Eduard Ballbè, Esteva Cardellach and me. With the veteran porter Eustaquio Henostroza, we set up Base Camp in the Quebrada Ishinca at 14,400 feet on J...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1983, with membership remaining about 700. Nearly 300 members participated in one of the courses, the mountain camps, or the foreign expeditions, which were from one to four weeks long. ...
Suj Tilla West, second ascent. The Ralam valley lies between the more famous Milam valley to its west and the little-known Lassar Yankti to its east. It harbors the breathtakingly beautiful village of Ralam and a system of three glaciers, namely; ...
Nanda Devi East. The expedition which I led to Nanda Devi East was composed of 14 Indians and 14 Ukrainians. Because of the closure of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, we approached from Kumaon to the east, making the second ascent of the peak from outsi...
Trisul and P 21,220. Trisul (23,360 feet) was climbed by Sadananda Das, Aninda Sen, Jeten Mitra, Dawle M. Kindo, Nima Dorje and Sher Singh on September 21. Prabir K. Banerjee, Kalsadhan Banerjee, Sovon Gupta, Dwijen Roy, Nima Dorje and Kitare clim...
Holkham Bay. A brief visit was made to the glaciers of Tracy and Endicott Arms of Holkham Bay by Russell Dow and the writer. The position of the termini relative to the observations of 1929 were as follows : Sumdum Glacier has retreated ; North an...
MARJORIE MAYE MEEHAN HOWORTH 1904–1987Marjorie Maye Meehan was born in Quincy, Illinois in 1904. She attended the local schools and studied at the Chicago Academy of Art. She had a career in professional dancing in many cities of the Midwest. She ...
Cloud Peak, East Face, Bighorn Mountains. On June 24 Shawn Hogan, Dave Holsworth and I climbed a new couloir on the east face of Cloud Peak. There are four major couloirs on the face, two on the south of the wall and two on the north. Ours was the...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, MISCOMMUNICATION Nevada, Red Rocks, American SportsmanOn January 25, 1992, Matt Spydell of Santa Barbara, California, reached the anchors on American Sportsman (5.10c) on the Wall of Confusion, Red Rocks, Nevada. Hi...
FALL ON ROCK – FALL ON ROCKNorth Carolina, Pilot Mountain State ParkOn February 13, several others and I witnessed a long fall that resulted in a climber hitting the ground. I was climbing Foreign Trade Zone while a party of two was top-roping som...
Ulugh Mustagh. A joint expedition of 23 Japanese and 13 Chinese made the second ascent of Ulugh Mustagh. On August 31, six climbers got to the top, including climbing leader Fuminori Furukawa.