Dhaulagiri II Attempt. French climbers led by François Imbert attempted Dhaulagiri II by a new route, the south ridge. They established four high camps. They reached 22,300 feet on October 19 but gave up because of too much snow which threatened a...
Manson Icefield, ascents and exploration. From the village of Grise Fjord we made a month-long unsupported ski tour and exploratory mountaineering trip from April 28 to May 24. Our group consisted of Marek Vokac and Lars Tore Ludvigsen from Norway...
Toilsome Peak, first ascent; Worrisome Peak, northwest ridge. Ross Noffsinger, David Stchyrba, and I helicoptered with Pollux Aviation to a 5,500' saddle on the ridge northwest of Troublesome Glacier, in the western Chugach, on June 26. We scrambl...
Indian Peak Descents: Ski Mountaineering and Snowboarding in Colorado’s Indian Peaks. Ron Haddad and Eileen Faughey. Sigma Books, Boulder, Colorado, 1996. Paper, 13 topos and 90 photos. 147 pages. $15.95.Comment: Describes 56 spring and summer ski...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club was unusually active in 1965. Fourteen week-end climbing outings were sponsored to the Mississippi Palisades in Illinois and to Devils Lake in Wisconsin. The annual banquet attracted 130 members from five states to hear...
Mount Cook, Caroline Face. The “last great problem” of New Zealand, the 7000-foot Caroline Face of Mount Cook was finally climbed in November by Peter Clough and John Glasgow. Details appear in Mountain of May 1970 and January 1971.
Shishapangma. It was reported that Goran Kropp (Sweden) led a 12-member expedition to Shishapangma on which Renata Chlumksa became the first Swedish woman to climb above 8000 meters and Cyril Destremau managed to make the first snowboard descent f...
Cerro San Francisco, Central Andes. Two local climbers, Mario Alfaro and Iván Vigoroux, and the Frenchman Philippe Grenier made the first ascent of the southeast buttress of Cerro San Francisco (14,698 feet) on February 2. The climb, some 2300 fee...
El Mocho, Aguja del S and Cerro Adela Sur. Giancarlo Grassi, M. Rossi and R. Pe climbed in the Fitz Roy region in November and December of 1986. They climbed the “Todo o Nada” couloir on the southeast face of El Mocho on November 18. The face has ...
Chopicalqui. On July 1 Walter Herrmann, Jack Hickman, Robert Kyrlach, David Mattox and I from Albuquerque and Hermann Denk of Munich, Germany were trucked up to the Llanganuco Lakes and headed toward the Portachuelo, leaving the pack trail where i...
Great Trango Tower, Northwest Face, Russian Direct. Alexander Odintsov, Igor Potankin, Ivan Samoilenko (high-altitude cameraman) and Yuri Koshelenko arrived at Base Camp on July 7. From July 15-August 10, the team established The Russian Way (VII ...
Istor-o-Nal. The Kwansei Gakuin University expedition made an attempt on Istor-o-Nal. The leader was Akira Nomura and the other members were Yoshihiko Ogawa, Takashi Morimoto, Yasumasa Nakai, Koji Miyazaki and the Afghan liaison officer Khalid Lat...
Nuptse West Summit. A Korean expedition led by Cho Hyung-Kyu made the first ascent of the west summit of Nuptse (7784 meters, 25,538 feet), climbing the northwest ridge. On December 22, Chun Bong-Gon, Bae Hyun-Jong, Kim Hwa-Gon, Oh Se-Cheul, Lhakp...
Fox Jaw Cirque, six first ascents. In mid-June, Josh Beckner, Darcy Deutcher, Kadin Panagoulis, Jed Porter, Annie Trujillo, and I stepped off a boat and schlepped seven miles into the Fox Jaw Cirque in the Tasiilaq Fjord Area. First reports of cli...
FALL ON ROCK, EXPOSURE, DARKNESS Nevada, Red Rocks Canyon, EpinephrineOn October 30, climbers Joel Geerling (24) and Chris Pannucci (25) left the Black Velvet Canyon parking lot at 0530, arriving at the base of 18-pitch Epinephrine (5.9) by 0630. ...
Mount Lempriere, Monashee Range. The northern Monashee Range runs parallel to the Canadian Rockies. Its sedimentary and metamorphic rock has limited technical climbing. Yet, there are high alpine peaks with important glaciers and steep, imposing f...
Uja Tirche. The objective of Ajit Shelat and me was Uja Tirche (6202 meters, 20,348 feet) in eastern Garhwal. It lies on the Siruanch Glacier. Ours was the third ascent, following the Scots Weir and Murray in 1950 and a team from Calcutta in 1974....
Mercedario, La Conquista del Poniente. This mountain (6,770m), in Provincia de San Juan, is similar to Aconcagua in height, glaciers, and difficulties, but it hasn’t had as many ascents. In 1999 a team of four from the city of San Juan went to the...
Maine: (1) Appalachian Mountains, Mt . Katahdin. On 18 March 1951 seven students of the Phillips Exeter Academy Mountaineering Club slid about 1,000 feet in a snow avalanche which they touched off during a winter ascent of this 5,268-foot mountain...
In summer Cerro Acay, southeast of San Antonio de los Cobres, in the province of Salta, is generally a barren rounded hill, which was first summited by the Incas for religious purposes. However, on February 13 Gustavo González and friend, reside...