Mount Fortitude, Selkirks. The first ascent of Mount Fortitude, a 9100-foot summit at the western border of Glacier Park, British Columbia, was made by Dr. and Mrs. Robert West August 21, 1956. This climb up the east ridge of Mount Fortitude was c...
Stiletto, Sierra I and Eaglehead, Coast Range. Technical new routes were done on each of these peaks, flanking the Tellot Glacier. A two-day climb was completed on the east buttress of Stiletto by Steve Must and John Chilton. These two also climbe...
FALL ON ROCKMinnesota, Taylor’s FallsOn Saturday, April 6, while waiting for a friend at a local area called Taylors Falls, I did some easy soloing and some bouldering. I chose a crack route that was overhanging and has an excellent landing. After...
AAC, North Central Section. The North Central Section covers Minnesota, Iowa, Nebraska, South Dakota and North Dakota. In July, 1999, Scott Christensen took over the post of chairman, which had been vacant in 1997-’98. A first goal was to make a w...
CUMBER PULLED ROCK OFF, ROCK FALLColorado, Eldorado Canyon, Wind TowerOn June 17 rescuers were called to Eldorado Canyon State Park for a rock- slide with a person trapped. Selma Hafizbegovic (39) was going to climb the Wind Tower rock formation v...
Unbekannte Schweizer Landschaften aus dem xvii. Jahrhundert, by S. Stelling-Michaud. 4to., pp. 103, with 40 plates. Zürich: Niehans Verlag, 1937. Sw. Fr. 16.50.The great Dutch masters, like Rembrandt, seldom traveled south of the Alps—there were e...
Angelino Wall, Drop Zone. From November 27-December 1, 1996, Chris McNamara and I climbed Drop Zone (11 pitches, 5.8 A4-) on the Angelino Wall, the chocolate-colored pillar on the first large formation behind the Visitors’ Center. The Angelino Wal...
P2, first ascent. As noted above, one of the aims of the Ukrainian expedition to Manaslu was to make the first ascent of P2 (6251m a.k.a. Simnag Himal East), a minor summit along the east ridge of Ngadi Chuli (7871m a.k.a. Peak 29) immediately sou...
K7 Attempt. Bob Wightman, Bob Brewer, Luke Steer and I hoped to make the second ascent of K7 by a new route, the southwest ridge, capsule style. We arrived at Base Camp on July 23. Camps I and II were placed at 4600 and 5000 meters on July 25 and ...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AberdeenAbout 1700 on August 27, a party of four were descending the north glacier separating the summits of Mts. Aberdeen (3152 meters) and Haddo. On the lower ice tongue (angled ab...
Norbu Kang, first official ascent. During the summer, Japanese led by Tamotsu Ohnishi made the first ascent of Norbu Kang, a recently opened 6,005m peak in the Upper Dolpo region of northwest Nepal. From a base camp pitched on June 20 at 4,805m, w...
Broad Peak Ascent and Attempts. As in previous years, a number of expeditions attempted to climb Broad Peak, mostly by the normal route. An international group of eight climbers from seven different countries was organized commercially and guided ...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. During 1948 the Chicago Mountaineering Club enjoyed a series of fine monthly meetings from January to June and from October to December, and held a number of local outings. The favorite local climbing spot is Devils La...
Over Tyrolese Hills, by F. S. Smythe. xv + 297 pages, with illustrations, map and index. London : Hodder & Stoughton, 1936. In the summer of 1935, as a preliminary to a more arduous Himalayan journey, the author, accompanied by a Canadian, Cam...
Everest in the Post-Monsoon Season. On the standard South Col route on Everest, climbers are somewhat better protected from the terrible winds that sweep the Tibetan side and on October 10, Japanese Muneo Nukita reached the summit with Sherpas Apa...
Schweizerland, Various Ascents. It was reported that Britans Ian Brewer, Rupert Finn, Steve Fisher, Lucy and Richard Pash, and Cynnedd Richards skied some 100 kilometers through the Caledonian Alps and across the Glacier de France to reach their c...
During the last week of April and the first week of May, a four-person New Zealand-American team, comprising Lydia Bradey, Kenny Gasch, Penny Goddard, and I, attempted the east face of Nyambo Konka. This beautiful summit lies just south of M...
Gya, Mistaken Attempt, and Other Ascents. It was reported that three expeditions attempted this unclimbed peak in 1997. In April, Arum Samant led a three-man team (Anil Chavan and Vinod Bodh) from Bombay that also included High-Altitude Porters Pa...
Siulá Grande, South-Southeast Spur. On July 12 Jean Baehler, Luc Défago and I were at Base Camp at 13,775 feet on the shores of Siulácocha to the east of Siulá Grande below the unclimbed south-southeast spur. On the 13th we fixed rope on a 1000-fo...
Glacier National Park, Various Activity. A cool, dry fall, a full moon, and the sudden arrival of an arctic front coincided with a trip Ryan Hokanson and I had planned for the first week- end in November. To ensure we didn’t waste such rare condit...