Maine: (1) Appalachian Mountains, Mt . Katahdin. On 18 March 1951 seven students of the Phillips Exeter Academy Mountaineering Club slid about 1,000 feet in a snow avalanche which they touched off during a winter ascent of this 5,268-foot mountain...
In summer Cerro Acay, southeast of San Antonio de los Cobres, in the province of Salta, is generally a barren rounded hill, which was first summited by the Incas for religious purposes. However, on February 13 Gustavo González and friend, reside...
Gasherbrum II. This mountain is now frequently ascended. Some climbs are noted elsewhere in this journal. See reports by the French and Yugoslavs. Spaniards Juan del Olmo and Roberto Vâsquez reached the summit on July 9. Tragically the expedition ...
Summits and Secrets, by Kurt Diemberger. Translated from the German by Hugh Merrick. London: George Allen & Unwin Ltd, 1971. 344 pages, 78 photographs, 8 maps and sketches. £ 5.50 (about $15)There cannot be many mountaineering autobiographies ...
Climbs in the Sierra Nevada. The Sierra high country experienced a great deal of climber activity during the summer of 1994, but little energy was expended on new routes. The 1993 publication of Sierra Classics may have inspired climbers to plan t...
Tagne and Sagar, first ascents. A team of young climbers from Imperial College of London made a highly exploratory visit to the fairly recently de-restricted area north of the Kunzum La. The peaks here are non-technical and rather arid, the weathe...
Kagbhusand. A seven-member team sponsored by the Himalayan Club and led by Divyesh Muni climbed Kagbhusand (5830 meters, 19,128 feet). Base camp was placed on September 12 at 4000 meters between Thur Udiar and Eri Udiar in the Amrit Ganga valley. ...
Overview of Indian Expeditions. Seventy five Indian expeditions were organized by various clubs and associations within the country. In addition there were three expeditions organized by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, bringing the total to ...
Koh-i-Bandaka Zeraghau, Northeast Ridge. We approached the Bandaka massif from the south, driving from Kabul up the Kunar River and then up the Bashgal to Kamdesh, where a washout prevented further progress by vehicle. We hiked up the Bashgal and ...
WILLIAM B. BRYAN 1928-1988William B. Bryan died in Portland, Oregon on February 24 in his 61st year. Bill was bom and raised in Hood River, Oregon, where he was a long-time member of the Crag Rats, the important mountain rescue and climbing organi...
Kluane National Park Reserve Icefield Mountaineering Statistics, 1996. During the spring and summer of 1996 there were 45 mountaineering expeditions, comprising 161 persons, that ventured into the Saint Elias Mountains of Kluane National Park. The...
California, Sierra Nevada—North Palisade Peak—On 7 July, John Findley Scott (23) and party of five other persons were ascending North Palisade. Near summit a handhold that Scott grasped came loose and Scott fell some 40 feet to a narrow ledge. He ...
Mount Steele, East Ridge in Winter, 1982. On December 28 a helicopter of Trans North Turbo Air dropped us at Base Camp on the Steele Glacier. We were Jirí Kohout, leader, his brother Ivan, Ivan Bohácek, Josef Rubín and me. We spent that night in o...
KR-7 and KR-8, Lahul. Two parties operated in the Koa Rong valley, both of which succeeded in climbing hitherto unclimbed peaks. On August 19, three members of the Japanese expedition led by Kiyoshi Ishii completed the first ascent of difficult KR...
SLIP ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. AndromedaOn July 21, 1979, after climbing Mt. Andromeda via the Skyladder, Slawomir Lobdozinski and Jennifer Smith (ages unknown) of Edmonton were descending a gully into the Androm- eda-...
Ganesh III, First Ascent, North Ridge. Ganesh III had unsuccessfully been attempted six times before our expedition: 1953, spring, New Zealanders, north ridge to 18,000 feet; 1954, spring, Japanese, northwest ridge; 1971, spring, Japanese, northea...
Bugaboo and Vowell Groups, Purcells. During the second week of July Earle Whipple, Bob Page, Arnold Guess, and Bill Buckingham packed nearly a month’s food to Boulder Camp in the Bugaboos. For the next two weeks we familiarized ourselves with the ...
K2, Abruzzi Ridge. It was reported that Japanese Masafumi Todaka had planned a solo ascent of the unrepeated Kukuczka-Piotrowski route on the south face in three days with bivouacs at 6800 meters and 7900 meters, but unsettled weather and deep sno...
Guillaumet and Fitz Roy. At the end of September, Silvia FitzPatrick and I climbed the Aguja Guillaumet by the French couloir. For Silvia, this was her first Patagonian summit. We returned twice to Guillaumet and made a new variant on the northeas...
Shishapangma Attempt. Our Shishapangma (Xixabangma) expedition degenerated into a reconnaissance when a number of the expedition could not go. Although technically easy, the route on the mountain is not free of objective danger. A large slab avala...