Colchuck Peak, Northeast Ridge and North Face. On July 15, Ray Lilleby and I approached the peak from Colchuck Lake, ascending toward the Dragontail-Colchuck col to a point just below the Colchuck Glacier. Talus slopes lead to a narrow, snow-fille...
The Dolomites, by C. Douglas Milner, xiv+105 pages of text, 150 photographs by the author (including colored frontispiece), six map-diagrams and end-paper map. London: Robert Hale, 1951. Price, 25/10.This is one of the loveliest illustrated books ...
Qujoc (Punta de Lanzadera) and Waqaywilki (Verónica or Padre Eterno), Cordillera Urubamba. On August 12 Ray Sharpies and I and the American Tom Hendrickson made the first ascent of Qujoc (16,404 feet; formerly known as Punta de Lanzadera) via the ...
New regulations. Beginning January 1, 2011, new Chinese regulations make it financially much harder for small parties to attempt virgin peaks in Sichuan. Climbers will face up to five or six times the cost compared with 2010, with the rise in roya...
I Come From The Stone Age, by Heinrich Harrer. Translated from German by Edward Fitzgerald. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co., 1965. 256 pages, 38 pictures, 18 in color, 5 maps—sketch. Price: $6.95. Harrer is an illustration in the best tradition o...
Mount Logan, Catenary Ridge. Frank Sarnquist, Al Bergland, Steve Ericson and I had chosen to repeat the popular east ridge of Mount Logan. Though the north side of Logan was clear after eight days of waiting, we were still unable to land at the fo...
Sue Peak. The second highest peak in the seldom visited Bailey Range was first climbed on July 7 by Roy Etten, Jack Christiansen, Dennis Pruitt, and Dan Baker. The party tentatively named the 6950-foot mountain “Sue Peak” in honor of Christiansen’...
Alfred Wegener Peninsula. Our expedition was made up of Emil Galehr, Heinz Grasbon, Berhard Grimm, Gerhard and Waltraut Huber, Helmut Koch and me as leader. We were carried by fishing boat from Umanak to Base Camp at Tuperssuatsiait on the western...
Baintha Brakk Ascent. It was reported that Jean Annequin and Pascal Chataing, both of France, climbed this pillar (c. 6400 meters) in six days (July 1-6). The ascent involved some 30 pitches at up to 7a. (High Mountain Sports 157)
Washington, Mt. Erie. On April 8 a group including Robert Wiley was descending the mountain. The group of five lost the trail, and they were descending a rocky gully with some brush. They were close together. A rock was dislodged and the warning c...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, POOR COMMUNICATIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Lower Yosemite FallsOn June 24, Raj Dhingra (39), my brother Hugh (34), and I—Dan Sakols (37)— decided to tackle Commitment (three pitches, 5.9), one of the “Five Open ...
Higher Cathedral Rock, East Face. In June, Chris Fredericks and Jim Bridwell made the first ascent of the east face of Higher Cathedral Rock, which they rated at NCCS VI, A4, F9.
AVALANCHE—BACKCOUNTRY SNOWBOARDING, POOR POSITIONAlaska, Mount St. EliasOn April 7, John Griber was carefully working his way down a 45-degree ice face on Mount St. Elias. He turned at the sound of a “swish” above. Forty to 50 feet away, he saw co...
Annapurna IV Attempt, 1979. We were Jaume Serrat, Kim Prunes and I, Catalans, Felipe Uriarte and Martín Zabaleta, Basques, Carlos Buhler, American, and others. We began our approach march from Dumre on the Kathmandu-Pokhara road on October 3, 1979...
Central Tower of Paine, Macaroni-Porridge Junction. Our team was composed of three members: Filip Šilhan, Marek Holecek and David Štastný. We left for Patagonia on January 26 with the aim of climbing one of the routes on the 1200-meter east face o...
Wapama Rock, South Face, Hetch Hetchy Valley. Hetch Hetchy Valley lies a scant 15 air miles from Yosemite Valley, still within the confines of the park, but until April, Hetch Hetchy had never heard the blow of a piton hammer. Both climbers and hi...
McKinley, South Buttress Alternate. Our route may be a valuable alternative for attaining the crest of the South Buttress from the Kahiltna east fork. Our choice was based upon a desire to avoid the objective avalanche hazards to be found on the J...
RAPPEL ERROR, NO BACKUP, NO HARD HATAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Barrier Mountain, Barrier BluffsOn April 30, a climber fell 15 to 20 metres to the ground while rappelling off a 5.8 sport climb, at Barrier Bluffs, “One Way to Wangland.” The 30- ye...
Annapurna IV, Northwest Route, 1978. We were Chun Byung-koo, leader, Yoo Dong-ok, Byun Myu-keun, Lee Myung-ho, Chun Doo-sung and I, deputy leader. We left Begnas village on March 14, 1978 with 73 porters. During a heavy snowstorm at Chame village ...
Alpenbock Climbing Club. Owing to a general lack of snow in the Wasatch Range, some climbing was possible throughout the winter. A route on the "Tension Trap” in Little Cottonwood Canyon required the month of March to find. Fixed ropes were left o...