Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Istor-o-Nal

Istor-o-Nal. On June 5 Zvone Kofler and Janko Ažman of the Third Yugoslav Hindu Kush Expedition made the second ascent of Istor-o-Nal (24,271 feet) by a new, direct route on the south side. The route ascended the southwest buttress and ridge. (Fir...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Vinson Massif, East Ridge, 1989

Vinson Massif, East Ridge, 1989. Chileans Arturo Fernandois, Fernando Luchsinger, Jaime Roca, Italo Valle and I as leader were flown from Punta Arenas by the Chilean Air Force to its base on Isla Rey Jorge and only 21 days later, because of bad we...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nameless Tower, Trango Towers, Baltoro Karakoram

Nameless Tower, Trango Towers, Baltoro Karakoram. Our members were Andrew Atkinson, Stuart Holmes, Alan Scott, Ian Lonsdale and me as leader. We wanted to climb a new route on the Nameless Tower alpine-style. We arrived at Base Camp on the Trango ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Oregon, North Sister

LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADEOregon, North SisterThe following accident on May 13, 1989, was reported as follows:All my information is secondhand. As a result of head injuries, I have no memory of the climb. I belayed my partner onto the glac...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Mount Fortitude, Selkirks

Mount Fortitude, Selkirks. The first ascent of Mount Fortitude, a 9100-foot summit at the western border of Glacier Park, British Columbia, was made by Dr. and Mrs. Robert West August 21, 1956. This climb up the east ridge of Mount Fortitude was c...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Stiletto, Sierra I and Eaglehead, Coast Range

Stiletto, Sierra I and Eaglehead, Coast Range. Technical new routes were done on each of these peaks, flanking the Tellot Glacier. A two-day climb was completed on the east buttress of Stiletto by Steve Must and John Chilton. These two also climbe...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Minnesota, Taylor's Falls

FALL ON ROCKMinnesota, Taylor’s FallsOn Saturday, April 6, while waiting for a friend at a local area called Taylors Falls, I did some easy soloing and some bouldering. I chose a crack route that was overhanging and has an excellent landing. After...


Club Activities AAJ
AAC, North Central Section

AAC, North Central Section. The North Central Section covers Minnesota, Iowa, Nebraska, South Dakota and North Dakota. In July, 1999, Scott Christensen took over the post of chairman, which had been vacant in 1997-’98. A first goal was to make a w...


Accident Reports ANAM
Climber Pulled Rock Off, Rock Fall

CUMBER PULLED ROCK OFF, ROCK FALLColorado, Eldorado Canyon, Wind TowerOn June 17 rescuers were called to Eldorado Canyon State Park for a rock- slide with a person trapped. Selma Hafizbegovic (39) was going to climb the Wind Tower rock formation v...


Book Reviews AAJ
Unbekannte Schweizer Landschaften aus dem xvii

Unbekannte Schweizer Landschaften aus dem xvii. Jahrhundert, by S. Stelling-Michaud. 4to., pp. 103, with 40 plates. Zürich: Niehans Verlag, 1937. Sw. Fr. 16.50.The great Dutch masters, like Rembrandt, seldom traveled south of the Alps—there were e...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Angelino Wall, Drop Zone

Angelino Wall, Drop Zone. From November 27-December 1, 1996, Chris McNamara and I climbed Drop Zone (11 pitches, 5.8 A4-) on the Angelino Wall, the chocolate-colored pillar on the first large formation behind the Visitors’ Center. The Angelino Wal...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Himal, Manaslu, P2, First Ascent

P2, first ascent. As noted above, one of the aims of the Ukrainian expedition to Manaslu was to make the first ascent of P2 (6251m a.k.a. Simnag Himal East), a minor summit along the east ridge of Ngadi Chuli (7871m a.k.a. Peak 29) immediately sou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K7 Attempt

K7 Attempt. Bob Wightman, Bob Brewer, Luke Steer and I hoped to make the second ascent of K7 by a new route, the southwest ridge, capsule style. We arrived at Base Camp on July 23. Camps I and II were placed at 4600 and 5000 meters on July 25 and ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Placed No Protection, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Aberdeen

FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AberdeenAbout 1700 on August 27, a party of four were descending the north glacier separating the summits of Mts. Aberdeen (3152 meters) and Haddo. On the lower ice tongue (angled ab...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kanjiroba Himal, Norbu Kang, First Official Ascent

Norbu Kang, first official ascent. During the summer, Japanese led by Tamotsu Ohnishi made the first ascent of Norbu Kang, a recently opened 6,005m peak in the Upper Dolpo region of northwest Nepal. From a base camp pitched on June 20 at 4,805m, w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak Ascent and Attempts

Broad Peak Ascent and Attempts. As in previous years, a number of expeditions attempted to climb Broad Peak, mostly by the normal route. An international group of eight climbers from seven different countries was organized commercially and guided ...


Club Activities AAJ
Chicago Mountaineering Club

Chicago Mountaineering Club. During 1948 the Chicago Mountaineering Club enjoyed a series of fine monthly meetings from January to June and from October to December, and held a number of local outings. The favorite local climbing spot is Devils La...


Book Reviews AAJ
Over Tyrolese Hills

Over Tyrolese Hills, by F. S. Smythe. xv + 297 pages, with illustrations, map and index. London : Hodder & Stoughton, 1936. In the summer of 1935, as a preliminary to a more arduous Himalayan journey, the author, accompanied by a Canadian, Cam...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest in the Post-Monsoon Season

Everest in the Post-Monsoon Season. On the standard South Col route on Everest, climbers are somewhat better protected from the terrible winds that sweep the Tibetan side and on October 10, Japanese Muneo Nukita reached the summit with Sherpas Apa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, Various Ascents

Schweizerland, Various Ascents. It was reported that Britans Ian Brewer, Rupert Finn, Steve Fisher, Lucy and Richard Pash, and Cynnedd Richards skied some 100 kilometers through the Caledonian Alps and across the Glacier de France to reach their c...