Mount Ghent, Karakoram. An Austrian expedition under the leadership of Erich Waschak reached Base Camp on the Kondus Glacier at 13,750 feet in early May. Camp I (14,750 feet) was on the left lateral moraine of the glacier. On May 10 they establish...
La Schal. Our expedition was made up of Pierre Cier, Dr. Marc Koch, his wife Elisabeth, my wife Francine and me. Our objective was La Schal, near the Hagshu La, a pass which links the Chenab and Doda Rivers. The mountain lies just north of the Bar...
Mt. Hungabee. Guidebook, page 73. Route 3 is given incorrectly. The total height of the rope-off is 130 ft. Thence down S. W. (not S. E.) flank by gullies to a big snow patch, whence Prospectors (not Paradise) Valley is reached a little above Eagl...
Arctowski Peninsula, Port Lockroy/Wiencke Island, Paradise Bay and Cuverville Island, Ascents and Descents. Doug Stoup, Stephen Koch, Hans Saari, Kris Erickson, Rick Armstrong, Jared Stackman and Rick Hunt were on the Antarctic Peninsula for an ex...
Sierra Nevada, California: (1) Twin Peaks (8924 ft.), above Lake Tahoe. On 14 August 1947 a young man from Massachusetts, Emmett Pettit, 23 years old, previously acquainted with a few climbs in the Canadian Rockies, was killed by a fall from a roc...
Navajolands. Although climbing in the Navajo Indian Reservation is still discouraged, it is hoped that selective areas not sacred or near a native dwelling may soon be designated acceptable to ascents with an ecologically sound approach. In 1987 K...
California, Owens Peak. On 19 March, Richard Johnson (18) was starting to climb the Southeast ridge of Owens Peak. Richard was leading a 5.8- 5.9 layback perhaps 55 feet high. His belayer was sitting on the soft sand at the base of the cliff. Rich...
Hut Tower, Tower Couloir to Werewolf-Hut Col. James Mehigan and I aren’t keen on beach vacations, so we traveled to Alaska in April, just in time for the end of a two-month high-pressure spell. On the day we arrived the wind swung to the south, wh...
Linksar Attempt. A Japanese expedition from Rissho University, led by Kihuo Goto, reached 19,850 feet on the east face of 23,100-foot Linksar. Base Camp was established at 11,500 feet on the Kondus Glacier on June 7. Four camps were placed on the ...
Gasherbrum II Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Dr. Jean Pierre Becquemin, Thierry Cazenave, Thierry Gallouët, Marc Souchal and me. We left Skardu on June 9 and reached Base Camp on June 19. After carrying two loads to Camp I at 20,000 feet,...
P 12,483 and P 12,456, Southern Fremont Peak Area, Wind River Range. On a short trip into the Wind River Range in August, Charles McLaughlin and I climbed two apparently untouched summits. The first was P 12,483, a hogback detached from and south ...
North Twin (N. Summit, ca. 11,800 ft.). We christened this impressive hump “Twins Tower,” though it is not to be confused with a more independent rock-tower in the long and spectacular N. ridge of North Twin. Its first ascent was made on July 29th...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. Beacon Rock has been a constant access issue during 1995. For part of the year the entire rock was closed due to nesting peregrine falcons. The East Face is still closed and under constant political pressure by Gary Rail, t...
Wyoming: Southern Wind River Range. Late in June 1948 Ralph Widrig, Fred Beckey, Graham Matthews and Harry King hiked from Big Sandy Opening to a base camp at Shadow Lake. Heavy snow, freshly fallen, stalled climbing; but on the 27th Widrig and Ki...
Information Center about the Hindu Kush. The German tourist club, Die Naturfreunde, has set up an information center to help expeditions hoping to climb in the central Afghan Hindu Kush. Those planning to climb in this region will do well to write...
Pumori Southwest-Ridge Attempt. One member became seriously ill from high altitude and never reached Base Camp. The other four, New Zealanders John Roberts, leader, and Kevin Conaglen, Australian Stephen Macdonald and American Keith Swenson all re...
Cerro Torre. The furor goes on unabated over the 1971 ascent of Cerro Torre by Cesare Maestri, in which the Italian climbers placed an enormous number of bolts with the help of a pneumatic drill. It will be remembered that in 1959 Maestri claimed ...
Pre-Monsoon in the Nepal Himalaya. Seven climbers died this spring in the Nepalese Himalaya, all during descents from 8000-meter summits. Two had no previous success on any 8000-meter mountain and used artificial oxygen during the final hours of t...
Mt. Hermon. Mrs. V. Z. Lotowycz writes of climbing Mt. Hermon (9232 ft.), a mountain of both archaeological and historical interest, on the borders of Syria and Lebanon. She reports: “The summit consists of three peaks which rise from a small plat...
STEPHEN WAYNE JENSEN1952-1982Although he considered himself an amateur climber, mountaineering was playing an increasingly large role in Stephen Jensen’s life. His hobby had taken him to McKinley in Alaska, to Athabasca, Eisenhower, Assiniboine an...