Bhagirathi II. The expedition of me Siegerland Section of the German Alpine Club (DAV) had ten members. Base Camp was at Nandanban at 4450 meters. For Bhagirathi II we established Camps I and II at 5050 and 5800 meters on May 15 and 18. The summit...
The Playground of Europe, by Leslie Stephen. 243 pages, 19 illustrations.My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus, by A. F. Mummery. 256 pages, 16 illustrations.Blackwell’s Mountaineering Library. Edited by H. E. G. Tyndale. Basil Blackwell, Oxford. The...
Mount Kimball. Mount Kimball (10,350 feet) was climbed for the second time in June via its north ridge, a new route, which had been attempted by Grace and Vin Hoeman and Fred Beckey in 1969. Doug Buchanan, Jerry Johnson and Ken Irving flew to Slat...
P 7450 (“Ivers Peak”) Ascent and Mount Orville Attempts, Fairweather Range. In 1991, Patrick Simmons and I flew with bush pilot Mike Ivers of Yukutat when we made an unsuccessful attempt to climb Mount Orville. In 1992, we were saddened to hear th...
Pumori, Southwest Ridge. The Internet contributed this spring to a new type of awkward situation concerning membership of an expedition. A Swiss, Markus Sofer, saw that a Canadian team was listed for an attempt on Everest’s neighbor Pumori, so he ...
Nun. Two Polish expeditions climbed Nun in 1987. Starting from the Shafat Glacier, they established four camps at 5300, 6150, 6550 and 6800 meters. On August 12, the summit was reached by leader Waclaw Otreba, Andrzej Rykaczewski, Bozena Bruzdowic...
Ama Dablam Attempts. An Australian-New Zealand expedition of six climbers led by Michael Groom failed in two tries on Ama Dablam. They got to 5700 meters on the northeast spur on April 26 and to 6740 meters on May 11 on the southwest route.Elizabe...
St. Elias Ski Traverse. From April 12 to May 13 Craig Patterson, Steve Darrow and I traversed the St. Elias Range. Our route followed the Tana Glacier onto the Bagley Icefield to the Seward Glacier, which flows between Mounts St. Elias and Logan. ...
Touch the Sky: The Needles in the Black Hills of South Dakota. Paul Piana. The American Alpine Club, New York, 1983. 304 pages, 48 black and white photographs, separate maps. $13.50.There was a time when the mountains were complicated, and a guide...
Zaalaisky Range, Sat Peak traverse. In July 2002, I led a team of Moscow climbers on several climbs in the western Zaalaisky Range (the Pamir), and the first full traverse of the Sat Peak massif. Because the western Zaalaisky Range is separated fr...
Pumori, Post-Monsoon Ascents, Tragedies and Attempt via the Southeast Face to the East Ridge. Jean-Noël Roche led six Frenchmen on the normal route on the southeast face to the east ridge of Pumori (7161 meters, 23,494 feet). On September 15, the ...
FALLING ROCK, OFF ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Washington, Unicorn PeakOn July 5, 1988, Andre Genereux fell 150 meters to his death after pulling a rock off the face of Unicorn Peak. The following details came from an interview with his partner, Edw...
Menlove: The Life of John Menlove Edwards. Jim Perrin. Victor Gollancz Ltd., London, 1985. (Distributed in the United States by David & Charles, Inc., North Pomfret, Vermont.) 344 pages, photographs. $34.95.Jim Perrin has found a difficult, in...
Ndoto Mountains, Poi, Story About Dancing Dogs. In 2002 the Slovenian team of Luka Fonda, Stanko Gruden, Matja Jeran, Goran Koren, and Rok Sisernik drilled a sport route from top to bottom and climbed it at 5.13b. For more information about the ro...
Cuerno Norte del Paine, 1992. On December 30 and 31,1992, Mike (Twid) Turner and I climbed an excellent new 21-pitch route on the northwest face of Cuerno Norte del Paine above the Valle del Francés. After failing to make new routes and climbing t...
Blackburn, Northwest Ridge, P 10,600 and P 10,685, Wrangell Mountains. The Hokkai College Alpine Club’s expedition from Sapporo had twenty-two men and two women as members. While one group attempted the northeast ridge, supported by others, a seco...
Mount Hunter, The Mystic Jewel. At midnight on June 19, Calvin Herbert, Mike Colocino and I climbed the initial 2,000 feet of Rattle and Hum to a protected bivouac and the beginning of our route on Mount Hunter's North Face. The climbing had been ...
Jogin III. A ladies’ expedition, organized by the Bharat Outward Bound Pioneers of Poona, set up Base Camp on the true right bank of the Kedar Ganga at 14,000 feet on May 29. Camps I, II and III were placed at 15,200, 16,100 and 17,000 feet. On Ju...
New York, Shawungunks (2)—In November, 1956 Ted Church and Kris Raubenheimer were climbing “Gaston.” On first pitch Ted’s hand slipped off an extremely small ledge. His fall was held by Kris through piton about 6 feet below his point of fall. Ted ...
Jarjinjabo Mountains, Kham Region, various first ascents. In October Peter Athans, Robert Mackinlay, Hilaree Nelson, Jared Ogden, Kasha Rigby, and Mark Synnott made various first ascents on the Zhopu Spires and the first ascent of the northern Jar...