Moose’s Tooth, West Summit. On May 26 Roger Maier, Paul Kauf and I climbed to the west summit of the Moose’s Tooth by the west ridge in deteriorating weather, which prevented our attempt on the main summit. Snow conditions were extremely unstable ...
Cho Oyu from the North in the Post-Monsoon. Although all the climbers of Cho Oyu, with the exception of Krzysztof Wielicki’s expedition (see above), used the standard route on Cho Oyu on its western side, there were seven expeditions that approach...
Mount Vancouver, Border Peak. The Osaka-Fu Mountaineering Association expedition was ied by Nobuo Kuwahara and made up of Yasuhiro Sawada, Tokuji Kawada, Yoshikazu Nishikawa, Suichi Ueda, Toshiaki Miyamoto, Yoshio Mizuta, Masaru Shibata, Masaichi ...
Parshui Valley. The Bavarian Naturfreunde (Nature Friends) expedition of Hans Altheimer, leader, Eugen Bardroff, Ekkehard Otto, Ludwig Rehm and Herbert Ziegenhardt was refused permission to climb in the Wakhan. Therefore they completed the explora...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. In 1951, both in the spring and in the fall, the Club held its six-week course in rock climbing. This course, now traditional, is accepted by the college in fulfillment of the physical education requirement. A new is...
Alpamayo. Our expedition consisted of André Renet, Gael Schmidt, Joseph Vaillant, Serge Camefort, Anne Marie Roch, Pierre Mayaud and me as leader. On August 20 Vaillant and I got to the summit of Alpamayo by the north ridge from camp at 18,000 fee...
Koh-i-Bandakor. The Nagoya University party had as its first objective the climbing of Shakhaur, but when refused permission, they turned their eyes to the second ascent of Koh-i-Bandakor (21,851 feet), which had first been climbed by the Germans ...
Kangchunne or Kagmara, Kanjiroba Himal. Koji Mizutani was the climbing leader of a five-man-and-a-woman expedition of the Osaka Alpine Club to Kangchunne (also called Kagmara; 21,140 feet). Base Camp was set up on March 28 at 13,850 feet below Lha...
Mount Heyburn, Winter Ascent. On April 4 Louis Stur and I made the first winter ascent of this major Sawtooth peak, using skis to the north saddle and then climbing the west chimney. Although it was cold, the climbing was quite tolerable because t...
Santa Cruz, Southwest Face and West Ridge. Jean-Marc Lang, Bruno Douillet and I climbed the southwest face and upper west ridge of Santa Cruz. (This route coincided with Wells’ only in the very upper part.— Editor.) On August 4 we started up the l...
Nevado San Miguel and Other Peaks. In April 1979, an expedition of the Club Amigos de la Montaña, Salta, climbed San Miguel (c. 5400 meters, 17,717 feet), located south of Nevado del Acay. As expected, archeological remains were located on the sum...
Mercedano, South Face. In the second half or January Héctor A. de la Vega, Cesarino Fava and Fausto Barozzi, Argentines, set out to make the first ascent of the south face of Mercedario (21,884 feet). From a high camp at the foot of the face at 15...
Mount Washington, Southeast Spur. On an extremely hot July day Harvey Schmidt and I forged a new variant of twelve 180-foot leads on this classic alpine spur. Beginning at the moat at the right edge of the prominent buttress, we climbed 2½ pitches...
SAFETY PROGRAMSPacific Northwest. The Mazamas have a rescue group organized to assist in emergencies in all mountainous areas. The Mountaineers, Inc. (Seattle, Everett and Tacoma) give annual training programs in elementary and intermediate climbi...
RAPPEL FAILURE, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Leavenworth Practice CliffsPeggy Stark (49) died Sunday [May 24] of head injuries she suffered Saturday in a rock- climbing accident in Chelan County just southwest of Leavenworth, the King Coun...
P 6447, Near K6. The first ascent of P 6447 (21,152 feet) was made by six members of an eight-man Japanese party led by Akiya Ishimura on August 17. They climbed the north ridge with camps at 15,750, 17,000 and 19,000 feet. The peak is five miles ...
Lhotse, First American Female Ascent. It was reported that on May 26, Christine Feld Boskoff became the first American woman—and second woman ever—to climb Lhotse. She had climbed to Camp IV (7805m) by her husband, Keith Boskoff. After waiting out...
Tombstone Shadow, Big Baldy Dome, Sequoia National Forest. In May, Roy Swafford, Barry Fowlie and I climbed a four-pitch route which starts in a huge left-facing corner on Big Baldy’s south face. Steep but easy climbing up the comer leads to a pit...
Colonel Foster, East Face. The main attraction of this wall is that it is quite likely the largest on Vancouver Island—about 3300 feet high. It was climbed in September by Fred Douglas, Paul Starr and me by a buttress leading to the highest peak o...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEMontana, Glacier National ParkOn October 12, 1983, Ken Lynch (28) and Steve Fernekes (27) were picking their way down from the top of Swiftcurrent Peak Glacier on the north face. They were attempting...