Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Himalchui Attempt

Himalchuli Attempt. A nine-man Korean expedition attempted to climb Himalchuli by the southwest ridge but got only to 6250 meters, which was reached on September 9. The leader Chung Chai-Hong died of illness and his place was taken by Han Seung-Kw...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Climbs Above Quebrada Ishinca

Climbs above Quebrada lshinca. The following summits were reached by members of the Iowa Mountaineers: Tocllaraju (19,790 feet) from Ishinca by Donnie Black, Norman Benton, Tim Schuld, Bruce Schneider, Cleveland Bell, Rick Droker on July 15; Sven ...


Club Activities AAJ
Explorers Club of Pittsburgh

Explorers Club of Pittsburgh. Our club does not have sections devoted to special activities such as mountaineering, rock climbing, or caving. The typical member is a generalist who participates in several Earth Sports depending on Pittsburgh’s fli...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Kumaon, Suj Tilla West (Earlier Known as Suitilla), First and Second Ascents

Suj Tilla West (earlier known as Suitilla), first and second ascents. Two of the finest ascents of the season were on Suj Tilla West (6,373m). These were made by two separate teams in different styles. The peak rises steeply near Ralam village in ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Kumaon and Garhwal, Nanda Kot Attempt

Nanda Kot Attempt. We were Ajoy Mondal, Nishi Kanta Sen, Rakhal Ghosh, Naresh Rai, Amitabha Bhattacharya, Gopal Chakraborty, Dr. Amit Bhowmick and I as leader. After arriving at Munsiary on September 8, we had difficulty recruiting porters because...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Devistan I

Devistan I. The Nainital Mountaineering Club sent a nine-member team led by Anup Sah to prepare for a scientific cum exploratory expedition to the Nanda Devi Sanctuary next summer. On October 3 Nayan Kumar Katira and two high-altitude porters Tej ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Prince William Sound

Prince William Sound. This was a new locality for all in the party except the writer who had visited the glaciers of the northern inlets in 1931.2 All these were revisited in 1935 and the work was extended to the glaciers on the western side of th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
M. Beckett Howorth, 1900-1986

M. BECKETT HOWORTH 1900–1986 By the death of M. Beckett Howorth the American Alpine Club has lost one of its most distinguished members. Although Dr. Howorth spent most of his life in the New York area, he was born in West Point, Mississippi and ...

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Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, The Innominate, Northwest Face and Ridge, Bighorn Mountains

The Innominate, Northwest Face and Ridge, Bighorn Mountains. In July 1933 a remarkable climb was done in the Bighorn Mountains by A.W. and Walter B. Willcox, which “turned out to be the climax of our expedition, a magnificent peak.”* The Willcox p...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Rock Dislodged By Partners, Montana, Beartooth Mountains

FALLING ROCK, ROCK DISLODGED BY PARTNERS Montana, Beartooth MountainsOn September 2, 1992, Kimberly Paulson (22) was with seven other members of a Minneapolis, MN, YMCA group when she was struck by a falling rock that had been dislodged by the per...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falls on Rock (7), Protection Pulled Out (2), Inadequate Protection, Rappel Errors (2), Belay Error, New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks

FALLS ON ROCK (7), PROTECTION PULLED OUT (2), INADEQUATE PROTECTION, RAPPEL ERRORS (2), BELAY ERRORNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksSeven reports were submitted for 2011 (including the narrative above).There was only one long fall. This male ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Western China, Cholpanlik Mustagh, Kun Lun

Cholpanlik Mustagh, Kun Lun. Our expedition was composed of Koshi Sasaki, Eiichi Sato, Ichiro Yamagata, Hitoshi Goto, Hirofumi Oe, Toshiaki Yoshioka, Masami Hosaka, Takashi Ota and me as leader. We started from Kashgar with two jeeps and a truck o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir

Tirich Mir. Of the 32 members of our group, 18 including two women reached the summit of Tirich Mir (25,290 feet by the Czech route). On July 13 we established Base Camp at 15,100 feet on the Upper Tirich Glacier. Camp I and II at 16,750 and 19,70...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kanjiroba Hima, Peak ca 5,900m

Peak ca 5,900m. Goetz Wiegland led a six-member German team to attempt Norbu Kang (6,005m), a peak added to the permitted list in 2002 and first climbed a year later by Tamotsu Ohnishi’s Japanese expedition, by the north face from a col west of th...


Club Activities AAJ
Appalachian Mountain Club

Appalachian Mountain Club. During 1959 members of this club were active in almost all mountain ranges of the world. Club trips were made to Africa, the Canadian Rockies, and many more regions closer to home.Various of the club sections have instit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Redoubt, South Ridge, Winter Ascent

Mount Redoubt, South Ridge, Winter Ascent. Kevin Duffy and I did a winter ascent of the south ridge of Mount Redoubt (10,197 feet). The climb took nine days, seven of them for the approach. We flew to Crescent Lake, about ten miles from the mounta...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, The West Buttress of El Capitan

The West Buttress of El Capitan. In the balmy spring of 1964 Chuck Pratt and I, in 3½ days, made the second ascent of the West Buttress of El Capitan (for first ascent, see A.A.J., 1964, 14:1, pp. 79-80.) This was the first continuous ascent of th...


Accident Reports ANAM
Inadequate Belay—Rope Passed Through Belay Device, Overconfidence, California, Yosemite Valley, Pat and Jack Pinnacle

INADEQUATE BELAY—ROPE PASSED THROUGH BELAY DEVICE, OVERCONFIDENCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Pat and Jack PinnacleIn the afternoon of September 29, 1994, Grant Farquhar (27) and Clare Carolan (25), both from Scotland, were climbing at the Pat and...


Book Reviews AAJ
Manual of Ski Mountaineering

Manual of Ski Mountaineering, edited by David R. Brower and others. Compiled under the auspices of The National Ski Association of America. 135 pages and one plate. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1942.If ski touring, especially in the H...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Squaretop from the West

Squaretop from the West, Wind River Range. In the second week of August Joe Giovannone and I climbed Squaretop up the north side of the southwest couloir. The route started just a little south of a point due west of the summit. To start, we climbe...