AVALANCHE, CLIMBING ALONEAlberta, Canmore, Mount Lady MacDonaldOn or about March 13, J.F (20) decided to make a solo scramble towards the summit of Mount Lady MacDonald. He was not one to follow the regular path and likely ascended directly toward...
Trisul. An expedition of the German Alpine Club’s (DAV) Mountain and Ski School, led by Franz Kellner, got 14 of its 17 members to the summit by the normal route.
Makalu Attempt. A group of nine Belgians led by Wounter Panis attempted to climb the normal northwest route on Makalu (8463 meters, 27,786 feet). They had five camps above Base Camp, including two Camps IV, one at 25,425 feet and the other, after ...
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. In 2010, notable new routes and rapid repeats continued [see below], as did the inevitable rescues and tragedies. Thirty-five climbers were stricken with injuries or illnesses that required medical inter...
Ama Dablam South Ridge Attempt. After a 13-day walk-in, we arrived at Base Camp on September 17. Four members succumbed to illness. Ian Barton suffered a retinal hemorrhage, leader Martin Mandel contracted glandular fever, Mac Battersby was debili...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONWashington, Sahale MountainOn June 24, 1984, Rick Jali (50) was climbing the south side of Sahale and was 20 meters below the summit, watching another member of his party climbing directly above when a dislodged rock str...
Langshisha Ri Attempt. Nine Japanese led by Kosuke Shiota attempted to climb Langshisha Ri by the southwest ridge. A high point of 6100 meters was reached on October 19 by Akihiko Yagi, Sugiyama Yoshiaki and Kirken Sherpa and then the climb was gi...
RECORDS OF FIRST ASCENTSMount McKinley. South Peak (20,300 ft.) by Dr. Hudson Stuck and Harry P. Karstens, June 7, 1912.“The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley)," by Hudson Stuck, New York, 1914.North Peak (20,000 ft.?) by William Taylor and Peter A...
Note on the Altitudes of Gunnbjørns Fjeld, Dome and Cone. Although Major Olsson has made the claim that both Dome and Cone are higher than Gunnbjørns Fjeld and has suggested that Dome be named “Ingemars Fjeld” and Cone “Lars Fjeld,” the Danish Geo...
WEATHER-WIND, FALL ON SNOW/ICENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Odell GullyOn December 4, a climber was traversing into the center of Odell Gully with his two partners. They were about a third of the way across the neck of the gully when a gust ble...
Colorado: (6) Torreys Peak (14,264 ft.). On 16 July 1950 Bill Bueler, 16, and James Kumkle, 34, were injured during their descent from this mountain. They had just completed an easy ascent of Grays Peak (14,274 ft.), having climbed it in 2 1/2 hou...
Named after a famous miner from the 19th century who discovered gold and copper, the beautiful Navarro Valley is situated south of Las Cuevas Village. A group of four peaks stands on the west side of the valley The name of the northern peak is S...
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED Arizona, Capitol ButteOn January 7, 1988, Richard Mullen (30s), visiting from Oregon where he lived, decided to climb, alone, the standard South Face Ducked Route of Capitol Butte. The climb is steep and over 1...
Tuttle Creek, Keyhole Wall. On May 18, Jack Roberts and I climbed a classic six-pitch new route on this spectacular wall; we called it the “Locksmith Route”. The route climbs the smooth central and highest portion of the face, and can be identifie...
Mustagh Tower Correction. The British party that climbed the Mustagh Tower, as reported on page 318 of A.A.J., 1985, made the second ascent of the lower west summit. The second ascent of the higher east summit was made by Guido Magnone’s party in ...
Andes: A new German expedition, financed by the Deutscher und Österreichischer Alpenverein and led by Philipp Borchers, the leader of the mountaineering group of the 1928 Russo-German Alai Expedition, has left for the exploration of the Cordillera...
Mount Hooker, “The Third Eye.” In August, Steve Quinlan and I climbed a completely new route on Mount Hooker (VI, 5.10, A4). The 1800-foot climb is to the left of the Dockery route. Due to bad weather, it took Steve and me three tries spread over ...
Shark’s Nose, Southwest Face. The longest face on Shark’s Nose, one of the most striking summits in the southern portion of the Wind River Range, is the west and southwest, which presents a very impressive wall from the cirque of Shadow Lake. Whil...
Charakusa Valley, Various Ascents. An Italian expedition comprising Maurizio Giordani, Luca “Rampikino” Maspes, Mattia Locatelli and Natale Villa were active in the Charakusa Valley in July, making a number of ascents, including the ascent mention...
Tlipobdan. On June 24, most of our group started the drive to Pakistan. They were Bernhard Juptner, Stefan Oberhauser, Christian Schimanek, Beatrix Meyer, Christine Fegerl, Robert Klapps and Andreas Ranet. En route, they climbed Ararat in Turkey a...