Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse Shar Attempt

Lhotse Shar Attempt. Three Germans led by Werner Hof tried to climb the southeast ridge of Lhotse Shar. They got to a high point of 6700 meters on October 29.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Coast,Schweizerland, Mt. Forel and Perfeknunatak, corrections

Schweizerland, Mt. Forel and Perfeknunatak, corrections. The route climbed on Mt. Forel by the Spanish team in 2006 was the northeast ridge and not the southeast as statedin AAJ 2007 (pp. 204-5). Most likely this was a first ascent; the ridge seen...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Handhold Broke Off, Inadequate Protection, Missouri, Henley Wall

FALL ON ROCK, HANDHOLD BROKE OFF, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONMissouri, Henley WallDave Ogrodowczyk (age unknown) was climbing at the Henley Wall in Henley, Missouri with two of his students and another friend. Both Dave and his belayer were wearing helm...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, European Everest Expedition

European Everest Expedition. The pre-monsoon European Everest expedition’s attempt to climb the southwest face ended in abject failure due mostly to poor leadership and dissention among the climbers. The leader, German Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Mount Lempriere, Monashee Range

Mount Scheldt, Muskwa Range, Northern Rockies. After Dave Weins had landed us on June 11 north of Mount Roosevelt, we figured we had six weeks to spend in the Muskwa Range. In the next four days, we carried four weeks’ food and equipment to Base C...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kande Hiunchli Attempt

Kande Hiunchuli Attempt. British climbers Garry Kennard and Mark Adams attempted to reach the northern of the two northeast summits of Kande Hiunchuli. [This peak has erroneously been called Sisne Himal by earlier expeditions. The A.A.J., 1981 on ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Ojos del Salado, Scientific Determination of Highest Point

Ojos del Salado, scientific determination of highest point. Ojos del Salado is, at 6,879m (IGMA), the highest mountain in Chile, third highest in the Andes, and the highest active volcano in the world. It’s located on the Argentina-Chile frontier ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado: (2) Rocky Mountain National Park

Colorado: (2) Rocky Mountain National Park. On 16 July 1951 a party of 13 from the Young Men's Christian Association Camp near Estes Park made a hiking trip from the Fall River Museum to Ypsilon Mountain. The party cut down the gorge between Mt. C...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Morro Von Rosen (5,450m), Guanuqueando South America, Argentina, Northern Andes, Puna de Atacama

Martin Altamirano and Martin Castillo visited the Chani Group in northern Salta during March 2010. They first climbed several short rock routes and an icefall, then on the 27th put up a new rock route on Morro Von Rosen, which they named Guanuqu...

| Published 2011 | Author Marcelo Scanu, Argentina


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II

Gasherbrum II. Among the many groups attempting Gasherbrum II, the French commercial expedition, led by Bernard Muller and Laurence de la Ferrière, made an early ascent on June 6. During May and early June, the weather was unusually cold and only ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Annapurna South Face

Annapurna South Face, by Chris Bonington. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1971, 334 pages, 60 color plates, $10.00This climb represents the most difficult route yet accomplished on an 8000-meter peak. However, when we are told that it is a landmark in the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Yosemite, The Nose, El Capitan, First One-Day All-Free Ascent

The Nose, El Capitan, First One-Day All-Free Ascent. In September, Lynn Hill one-upped her first free ascent of the Nose on El Capitan done a year ago in four days, climbing the entire route in a 23-hour push (VI, 5.13b). An article on this achiev...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Lahaul, CB 14 (6078m), Attempts

CB 14 (6078m), attempts. During August two expeditions attempted this peak on the South Dakka Glacier. Keiichi Isobe’s three-member Japanese team made an attempt on the 28th but failed and subsequently ran out of time. Ermanno Pizzogolio led a 15-...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Abi Gamin

Abi Gamin. A 20-man team from the Indian Army Ordnance Corps Centre in Secunderabad was led by Major Harjeet S. Bajwa. They gained the summit of Abi Gamin (7355 meters, 24,130 feet) on August 30. The attempt on Kamet was abandoned because of bad w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Overview of Foreign Expeditions

Overview of foreign expeditions. Around 35 expeditions from various countries visited the Indian Himalaya during 2003. This was perhaps the smallest number of visiting teams in the last few years. Many expeditions cancelled after the threat of the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Hindu Kush, Bandaka

Bandaka. From August 20 to 28 Ulrich Eberhardt and Gunther Henneman climbed the north ridge of Koh-e-Bandaka North (22,064 feet). On August 26 they completed the second ascent of this peak by this very difficult new route. From August 20 to 26 Nor...


In Memoriam AAJ
Ian Watts, 1960-1988

IAN WATTS 1960-1988Ian Watts died on January 17 while attempting the Zurbriggen Ridge on Mount Cook in New Zealand. He was last seen at the foot of the ridge near dawn. It is believed that he and his two companions were struck by an avalanche duri...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, St. Elias Mountains, Various Ascents

St. Elias Mountains, Various Ascents. On April 9, our pilot, Paul Claus of Ultima Thule Outfitters, landed us in the remote mountain wilderness of the Canadian St. Elias Range to fend for ourselves for a few weeks. Bill Hartlieb, Ron Gregg, Carl S...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Mt. Diablo—Devil's Pulpit

California, Mt. Diablo—Devil’s Pulpit—On 14 July, Larry D. Robinson (19) with little experience and apparently climbing alone fell while ascending the Devil’s Pulpit. His fall was either due to a slip or a handhold coming loose. He suffered possib...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Kromprins Frederik Bjerge, Various Ascents

Kronprins Frederik Bjerge, Various Ascents. The Tangent British East Greenland Expedition 1996 visited the Kronprins Frederik Bjerge, using a base camp at N.67°11'56” W.35°06’30”. From there and several other camps a total of 55 first ascents were...