Nalumasortoq (2,045m), new route on south-southwest face of Central Pillar and first free ascent on any of the pillars. Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick attempt. On June 26, 2001 Petr Balcar, Pavel Jonák, Václav atava and Martin Vrkoslav from the Czech R...
Escape Routes. David Roberts. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1997. 267 pages. $22.95.It is hard to imagine a regular reader of this journal who is not familiar with at least some of the climbs of Dave Roberts. And it is almost as hard to imagine someo...
Puscanturpa Sur, El Guardian de Pachamama, to top of rock wall. Oriol Anglada (Catalunya) and I wanted to make our own contribution to the mountains. When we arrived in Lima, a mountain guide mentioned the walls of Puscanturpa, describing their be...
Langtang Lirung Attempt. An eight-man Canadian expedition led by Shaun Parent attempted to repeat the 1980 British route which started up a rib on the south face and continued up the face. They reached Base Camp at 13,125 feet on March 12. A high ...
Glacial Movement in the Khumbu IcefallJack StarmerSINCE 1921 WHEN GEORGE MALLORY FIRST SAW IT from the brink of the Lho La, Everest’s Khumbu Icefall has been viewed with great respect—and, indeed, with considerable awe. It plunges for slightly ove...
JOAN WILSHIRE FIREY1927-19801973. It was an American Alpine Club gathering in full swing in Los Angeles. Committee reports were droning on—a lassitude had seeped into the audience and heads were beginning to bob. I was about to make another “aside...
Challenge of the North Cascades, by Fred Beckey. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1969. 280 pages, including 22 pages Appendix; 47 photos; 13 maps. Price $7.95.For years American mountaineers have been pondering the questions: How many climbs can a man ...
Puscanturpa Este, Stonehenge. Grega Kresal and I, who climbed Chacraraju’s 700m east face (VII A2) together in 1993, returned to Peru for the east face of Puscanturpa Este (5,410m). The peak is located in the extreme southeast corner of the Huay...
Kedar Dome. A 15-member Polish expedition led by Marek Grochowski hoped to climb two routes on Kedar Dome. Base Camp was established at Topoban on September 20. On the 25th Andrzej Jakubowski, Zbigniew Mikolajczyk, Marek Orenczuk and Waldemar Zmur...
Wiencke and Ronge Islands, various ascents and scientific program. An international expedition comprising myself as leader and skipper, co-skipper Dave Hildes (Canada), Peter Taylor (US), Grant Redvers (NZ), Jon Millar (Canada), Elliot Robertson (...
Mt. Everest, solo attempt. In the spring of 1952 a Dane, Klaus Bekker Larsen, with four Sherpas, traveled from Darjeeling to Namche Bazar and climbed to the Lobujya Khola between Nuptse and the Lho La. After they were forced back from there, they ...
San Juan, Copap Group, Chinchey. After leaving the Vilcabamba (see also that section), we reached Huaraz on July 11. Geoff Spear- point had taken Radcliffe’s place, joining David Bamford, John Gates, Tom Clarkson and me. Because conditions had bee...
INADEQUATE PROTECTION – NUT PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATNorth Carolina, Looking Glass Rock, Second ComingOn July 28, at 9:00 p.m. two climbers called 911 from the base of Second Coming, a well-known 5.7 two pitch traditional climb located...
Everest, The Hornbein Couloir Direct from Tibet. Swiss Erhard Loretan, Nicole Niquille, Jean Troillet, as well as my wife Annie and I from France, arrived on July 17 by jeep and truck from the Nepalese-Tibetan border. Troillet wanted to solo the c...
MARK DENNIS WEIGELT 1949-1972Mark Weigelt died on October 15, 1972, in a massive rockfall in the exit gully of the Ice Cliff Glacier on Mount Stuart in the Washington Cascades. He was very exuberant that day because the glacier was well broken, in...
1951-711972Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta30143820627British Columbia6619947511Yukon Territory9822000Ontario111000Quebec111000West Arctic000112Practi...
Shisha Pangma and Cho Oyu. Both peaks were climbed by the standard routes, by which the first ascents had been made. Shisha Pangma was climbed in classic style from Base Camp at 5100 meters but without high-altitude porters. Camps were at 5700, 63...
INVOLUNTARY GLISSADE—Vermont, Smuggler’s Notch. At 2:30 p.m. on 4 January 1974, Tom McCrumm (28), Allen Gaines (34), and Harvey Goldstein (26) hiked into Smuggler’s Notch to find an ice gulley to climb. Only a short distance from where we left my ...
FALL ON SNOW, ASCENDING TOO FAST, HAPE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, PLACED NO PROTECTION, DESCENDING UNROPED Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 14 Charles Cearley (40) and the Edwards brothers flew into Kahiltna base camp. Their climbing itinerary was first t...
The Naked Mountain, by Elizabeth Knowlton. vii + 355 pages, 34 illustrations, diagrams and index. New York and London. G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1933. Price $5.00.This book, devoted to the assault on Nanga Parbat (26,620 ft.) by the German-American exp...