FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlaska, Alaska Range, Idems PeakOn March 24, Karoline Frey (27), a German graduate student at the University of Alaska, Fairbanks, died after falling 90 feet into a crevasse while snowshoeing down a glacier abou...
Annapurna III. Our expedition was composed of Jean-Pierre Rieben, Bernard Polli, Patrik Gaillard, Bruno Vocat, Dr. Claude Pfefferlé, Jean-Claude Gay-Crosier and me as leader. Temba Sherpa was also a full member of the climbing team. Base Camp was ...
Espada, Chilly Willy. From January 21-February 8, Thierry Bionda and Jean Michell Zweiacker (Switzerland) put up a new route on the west face of Espada in the Valle del Frances. Chilly Willy (VI A3 5.8, 250m) was reported to have excellent granite...
West Quarter Dome, North Face. The Quarter Domes have two summits. Chouinard and Frost did an excellent route on the higher of these in 1962. The remaining face was climbed by Dave Goeddel and me last fall. We followed a prominent left-facing flak...
McKinley, Solo Winter Ascent. Overcoming the usual high winds, extreme temperatures and blustering storms, Vern Tejas became the first man to climb Mount McKinley solo in winter and live to tell about it. He had previously climbed the mountain 13 ...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)At the same time as they were searching for C.N. on Mount Brock on April 23, the conservation officers were called to a rescue on Mount Yamnuska about 1300. A climber was f...
Annapurna Ski Descent and Tragedy. Our team was composed of Dr. Lucien Adenis, Michel Berquet, Bernard Germain, Jean-Louis George, Yves Morin, Henry Sigayret and me and three Sherpas, Dawa Gyalzen, Chawang Rinzee and Dahunga Pemba Lama. We followe...
Alaska Alpine Club. Numerous week-end trips, particularly in the vicinity of the Club’s hut on the Castner Glacier, were made during the past year. An attempt by a new route was made on the White Princess, but was stopped by severe whiteout condit...
Dhaulagiri, Winter Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by So Anma made a successful winter ascent of Dhaulagiri on December 13 by the normal northeast ridge when Akio Koizumi and Sherpa Wangdu reached the summit. They bivouacked on the descent in a ...
Mt. Kennedy, north buttress, ascent and pilot's death. On July 10 Bill Pilling and I flew with Kurt Gloyer to climb the north buttress of Mt. Kennedy. We decided to carry over the top and return via a scenic and easy route over nearby Mt. Alversto...
Mt. Yukla, West Ridge. Rod Hancock and Stuart Parks climbed the Complete West Ridge of Yukla in 2004 for the first ascent, after quite a few local attempts (including a near miss by Charlie Sassara and Marty Schmidt during the winter of 1983-84). ...
Hueco Tanks: Climbing and Bouldering Guide, Second Edition. John Sherman. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1996. 407 pages. $25.00.Comment: Possibly the most routes and boulder problems ever compiled between the covers of a single volume. Al...
Idaho Alpine Club. A late and short season severely curtailed the outings and activities of the club in 1965. Ski tours into early July were held in the Teton Pass, Beartooth Pass, and Galena Summit areas. In the early part of the season climbing ...
Unclimbed Tower Near Furka Pass. Starting from the Hotel Furkablick, one can reach the base of the tower in an hour’s hike following the trail to the Sidelen Glacier to the stream draining the glacier and then up left into the snow basin immediate...
Shishapangma, Attempt. The main goal of the Slovenian Shishapangma 1997 autumn expedition was to climb the British route on the Shishapangma’s southwest face. Besides that, we planned an alpine style ascent and a ski descent from the top across th...
Lo Valdés group, Central Andes. A number of steep walls of very good rock of the Cathedral massif (13,073 feet) known as Placas, have been a favorite ground for technical climbs in Central Chile. On April 30, the last and most difficult of these w...
Aguja Guillaumet. After climbing Aconcagua by both the normal and the French south-face routes and five attempts on Fitz Roy driven back by bad weather, our Basque expedition reached one summit. In unstable weather in February, J. C. Tamayo climbe...
Cancaracá. Graziano Bianchi, Carlo Nembrini, Romano Cattaneo, and Franco Robecchi of the Erba Section of the Club Alpino Italiano on July 27 ascended from Shilla by way of the Quebrada Ulta to Base Camp at 13,850 feet. They decided to attack the w...
Great Trango Tower, Northwest Face, Parallel Worlds. From July 2-August 1, Alex Lowe, Jared Ogden and Mark Synnott, with Darren Britto, Greg Thomas, Jim Surrette and Mike Graber operating as film crew and internet coordinators in Base Camp, establ...
A Further Note on Istor-o-Nal. The Japanese ascent, noted in A.A.J., 1969, 16:2, p. 465, may also have been, as Ichiro Yoshizawa points out, obviously of the very high, Mutch-Murphy peak, since the Japanese ladies were also similarly led astray by...