Mount Foraker and Mount Crosson. On June 2, Doug Geeting flew Paul Barry, Jacques Boutet, Ron Rickman and me to the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, east of Foraker (17,400 feet). Our goal was the seven-mile-long Sultana Ridge, via Mount Cr...
Deoban attempts and P 21,122. An Indian Air Force team set up an advance camp on Deoban (22,480 feet) and made summit bids on June 17 and 19 but was foiled by inclement weather. They diverted to P 21,122 which Nawang Phenzo and two other members c...
P 20,240. Chanchal Mitra, Harsha Muni Nautiyal and Debi Ram claim to have climbed this virgin peak due north of Suvarna on August 9. They left for the summit from camp on the Kalindi Pass.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
New York, Shawungunks (1)—In June, 1956 Bob Graef and Mary Syl- vander were climbing “Gaston.” While leading the top pitch of “Gaston,” a practice climb, Bob lost consciousness due to heat and fell 20 to 30 feet. He was held by Mary but he suffere...
Siguniang, first ascent of north face. Taking 6 days, Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden made the first ascent of the north face of Siguniang, in April, 2002. Then, they made a two-day descent of the unclimbed north ridge. Most of days they endured snow...
Outpost. A new route was made to this summit on August 5 by Mr. and Mrs. W. V. Graham Matthews. From Fairy Meadow the northwest ridge was followed with minor variations onto the adjoining faces. Rope was used sparingly on a round trip of eight hou...
Pasang Lhamu Chuli (Jasamba, Cho Aui) (7,351m), attempt. A six-member Slovenian team led by Uros Samec went up a new line on this mountain just south of Cho Oyu. Although it is officially called Pasang Lhamu Chuli, it used to be known as Jasamba o...
Trango Nameless Tower. Two members of a 5-man South Korean expedition led by Kim Chang-Ho are said to have climbed the Trango Nameless Tower. Details are lacking.
Mount Rainier, Russell Cliffs. The previously unreported first ascent of these cliffs was completed in July, 1960, by Dave Mahre, Jim Kurtz, Don Jones, and Gene Prater. From a camp at Steamboat Prow, we crossed the Winthrop Glacier as soon as the ...
Leslie Stephen: His Thought and Character in Relation to his Time, by Noel Gilroy Annan. 342 pages, with 11 photographic illustrations. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1952. Price, $5.00.Mr. Annan, whose primary themes are indicated by...
Jatunhuma, West Face. On August 14 our expedition from the Brescia Section of the Italian Alpine Club from Hacienda Tinqui crossed the 16,650-foot Pacchanta Pass to place Base Camp on the shores of Ticllacocha at 15,750 feet. We established a high...
Located on the Qinghai-Ganshou border in central China, the Qilian (locally, the “Heavenly Mountains”) run northwest for some 800km from the town of Xining. The main range is split between northwestern and southeastern sections, though a separa...
Everest Diary, by John D. McCallum. Based on the diary of Lute Jerstad. Chicago: Follett Publishing Co. 213 pages + 32 pages of photographs. Price: $4.95.This book is written in a rather sensational style. We could not persuade either of two membe...
Mount Logan, First Ascent of Northwest Ridge. On May 28 Paul Kindree, John Howe, Reid Carter, John Wittmayer and I were flown to the westernmost cirque of the upper Logan Glacier. With 30 days’ food, climbing gear and 3000 feet of rope, we were le...
Winter Climbs. Thanks to prolonged spells of cold and unusually dry weather, a number of first winter climbs were possible during January and February. Most noteworthy was the ascent of Mount Index’s north peak by Dan Davis and Pat Callis, an effo...
Angmagssalik Region, East Greenland. Cormac Higgs, Colin Wootton and I arrived in Angmagssalik on July 20 where we met our sea freight. Our plan was to travel in our inflatable boat to the head of Kangertitivatsiaq Fjord, about 140 miles to the no...
Laila Peak, North Face Attempt. It was reported that a seven-member Italian expedition led by Oreste Forno failed in its attempt to make the first official ascent of Laila Peak (6096 meters). (High Mountain Sports 157)
Washington, Cascades, Granite Mountain. On March 25, Dr. Charles B. Andrews (35), and Donald J. LeBeau (29), set out to climb Granite Mountain, west of Denny Creek and west of Snoqualmie Pass. The climbers followed the Granite Mountain trail until...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Mount WhitneyOn May 15, Graeme Taylor (39) and Keith Reid (37), both experienced climbers, were in the Giant Staircase of the East Face route on Mt. Whitney. Graeme was about 40 feet out on lea...
Washington Column, East Face. The east face of Washington Column was climbed by Layton Kor, Jim Madsen and Kim Schmitz in May. The climb, which took three days, was rated as NCCS VI, F8, A5.