Shisha Pangma. Our expedition was made up of Setsuko Kitamura, Yoko Mihara, Yoshiko Kato, Keiko Tsurube, Yumiko Kurosawa, Yuko Kuramatsu, Etsuko Otsuki, Noriko Watanabe and me as leader. We traveled by car from Lhasa to Base Camp (16,900 feet) fro...

P 7400, East Side of the Ruth Gorge. Doug Klewin and I climbed the southwest face of P 7400. The first eight pitches were 5.9 or 5.10 with an occasional aid move. After that, it was easier, 5.8 or so. The route was 22 pitches in all and included r...

California, Yosemite Falls, Yosemite National Park. On 28 July, Kenneth Klein (23) and John Gunn (19) left a trail bike parked approximately three miles west of trail head to top of Yosemite Falls. Their automobile was left at the trail head, but ...

“Cloudburst Buttress, ” near Temple Lake. While in the Temple Peak area during the first week of September, Reid Dowdle, Jeff Niwa and I made the first ascent of a very attractive buttress on the west valley wall immediately north of Temple Lake. ...

Satopanth, Kedar Dome, Bhagirathi II. A Franco-Italian expedition led by two guides, Italian Cesare Cesa Bianchi and me, had 12 members. On August 13 Cesa Bianchi, Nicola Di Primio, Michel Bernard, Raymond Eynard-Machet and I climbed Satopanth by ...

Guide de la Chaine du Mont Blanc, by Marcel Kurz. 12 mo. ; 501 pages, with index and 56 diagrams. Fourth edition. Lausanne: Payot et Cie., 1935.The fourth edition of this standard guide (par pur piété filiale et pour perpétuer la tradition) contai...

Icefall Peak, Alaska Range. In March and April, Roman Motyha, Larry Reynolds and Bjarne Holm made a new route on Icefall Peak. The route from the Gulkana Glacier had been tried several times before, but all previous parties had been turned back by...

Mount Root. On May 30, Silas Wild, Sam Grubenhoff, Jim Urvina and I made the first ascent of Mount Root (10,570 feet), which we believe had been the second highest named but still unclimbed peak in North America. We were flown from Yakutat to 6700...

Lhotse Shar, Ascent. On Lhotse Shar, the 8400-meter eastern summit of the Lhotse massif next to Everest, a team of 15 Russian climbers led by Vladimir Savkov sent four men (Alexandre Foigt, Evgueni Vinogradski, Gleb Sokolov, Sergei Timofeev) to th...

Nun, Kun and White Needle. Many expeditions now successfully climb the peaks in the Nun and Kun Group. Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) was climbed by French led by François Chantran, Austrians led by G. Steinmair, Poles led by Waclaw Otreba, Spania...

Ama Dablam Attempt. Our members were Edward Ramey, Austin Weiss, Chuck Hanaway, Fred Sralam, Clyde Soles and I as leader. We established Base Camp, Camps I and II on April 5, 14 and 16 at 16,000, 19,000 and 19,800 feet on the southwest ridge of Am...

Mount Vancouver, North Buttress. A Japanese expedition made the first ascent of the north buttress of Mount Vancouver from the Hubbard Glacier. The first-ascent route (AAJ, 1950, p. 367) went up what might better be called the northwest ridge, tho...

Climbing in the Adirondacks. Don Mellor. Lake Placid Climbing School— Sundog Ski and Sports, Lake Placid, 1983. 178 pages, black and white photographs.

Northern Urals, Peak Sablya, two new routes in winter. These ascents took 10 days for the climbs (820m, Russian grade VI) and were done simultaneously by two teams. The joint Peterburg-Ekaterinburg team earned second place in the “first-ascent cla...

Pumori. A Spanish expedition led by Josu Feijoo climbed Pumori (7161 meters, 23,494 feet) by the southeast face to the east ridge. On April 25, Jesus María Díaz and Luis Angel Rojo completed the 61st ascent of the peak.Elizabeth Hawley

FALL ON ICE, FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING ALONE Washington, Mount RainierWhile descending Mount Rainier on July 3 via Tahoma Glacier, I slipped on some fairly steep ice. I tried unsuccessfully to self-arrest and was quickly out of control. I lost ...

Off the Beaten Track. Elizabeth D. Woolsey. Wilson Bench Press (PO Box 104, Wilson WY 83014). 208 pages, black and white photographs, glossaries. $19.75.Off the Beaten Track, Elizabeth Woolsey recounts a life that from her birth in New Mexico to t...

Ndoto Mountains, Poi, Doing A Dirty Eastern Groove. During July of 2003, we climbed a new 17-pitch route up the east face of Mt. Poi in the Ndoto Mountains of northern Kenya. Our team consisted of four university students from around the world: Fe...

P 2000. This peak lies just south of Cerro Catedral in the Valle del Francés. A route on its east face was worked out on six different days during December, 1992 and January, 1993 by Italians Svaluto Moreolo, Mauro Valmassoi, Alessandro Raccamello...

Mount Drum, Southwest Ridge, Wrangell Mountains. Two local groups climbed Mount Drum (12,010 feet) by the southwest ridge in early May. Jim Jennings and Jim Meigs reached the summit in one push from their camp at 5600 feet, bivouacking at 9900 fee...