Cerro Torre Attempt by Club Alpino Italiano, Belledo Section. In early January an Italian expedition led by Carlo Mauri moved into the Túnel valley en route to Cerro Torre. With him were Casimiro Ferrari, Lorenzo Acquistapace, Pierluigi Lanfranchi...
Makalu, Polish Attempt, 1978. The Polish expedition, led by Janusz Kurczab, had difficulties at the Indian frontier and lost weeks with truck- engine trouble. Base Camp at 15,750 feet was not set up until September 27, 1978. After Camps I and II w...
FALLING ICEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn June 25, Jesse Woods (20) and Scott Kastengren were preparing to climb the third pitch of the Casual Route (IV 5.10) on the Diamond of Longs Peak when Woods was struck in the face by ...
CHRISTIAN HÄSLER(1889-1940)With the passing of Christian Häsler on October 31st, 1940, a strong and skillful climber, a capable and resourceful guide, a splendid companion, and a gay and wholesome spirit has left us, and all who had the privilege ...
Deutsche am Nanga Parbat, by Fritz Bechtold. Munich. Verlag F. Bruckmann AG., 1934. RM 3.50.A thin unassuming book, with only sixty-eight pages of text, and eighty of photographs, tells the story of the ill-fated 1934 German expedition to Nanga Pa...
Cape Dyer, Baffin Island. Our expedition was organized primarily for exploratory mountaineering in the Arctic, combined with glaciology and photography. I am indebted to the Canadian government and the administrators of the Department of Indian an...
TABLE I General InformationState orProvinceNumber of Rescue MembersNumber of Operations ConductedNumber of Man-Hours In Field*Number of Alpine OperationsNumber of Lowland Operations’63’64’63’64’63’64’63’64’63’64Alberta —20—0—0—0—0* Arizona 3138161...
Thunder Mountain, new route attempt, and other ascents. Over about three weeks in May, Ken Glover and I climbed a little in the Alaska Range. First, we flew into base camp below the south face of Thunder Mountain, where we endured about a week of ...
Climbing Ice, by Yvon Chouinard. San Franciso: Sierra Club Books in association with the American Alpine Club. 192pp. 175 black and white photos. 16 pages of color photos. Price: $15.00 cloth; $9.95 paper. 1978.To climb intelligently today one mus...
North Cathedral Crag. 1940 first ascent by Miss J. Atkin, D. R. Crosby. From Monarch mine at spiral tunnels up brook W. of Cathedral Crags, ascending by way of the W. couloir. A fair trail leads up the brook for 3 miles, after which there is a mil...
Italian Expeditions in Staunings Alps, East Greenland. National Ski- Mountaineering Weeks have been organized by Italian Alpine guides since 1951 to climb all the most rewarding 4000-meter peaks of the Alps in the period from March through June. I...
FROSTBITE AND FATIGUE, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyHaving been discouraged by over two weeks of bad weather, including four days of being pinned down at the 3350 meter level in a blizzard, four members of a Mountain Rescue Council (MRC) expeditio...
Remo Patocchi, Maler der Alpen, by Roger de Craon-Poussy. 65 pages, with eight full-page plates in color and 36 in monotone from the artist’s paintings. Zürich: Fretz & Wasmuth Verlag, 1946. Price, $6.00.Born in 1876 at Bellinzona, northeast o...
Trillergerne Mountains, Fox Jaw Cirque, Tasiilaq Fjord. The Fox Jaw Cirque lies seven kilometers beyond the head of the Tasiilaq (a.k.a. Ammassalik) Fjord, ca 80 km from the settlement of Tasiilaq. Leaving Reykjavik in Iceland on June 23, Katy Hol...
Uumannaaq Fjord, several routes. In summer 2009 Giovanni Cristofori and Cristina Rapisardi decided to spend time on the west coast of Greenland. They own an ocean-going yacht, Billy Budd, and Christina likes to climb. In 2006 we put up new routes ...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTOregon, Mountain HoodOn May 19, 1985, Stan Meeuwssen (30), Michael Cenedella (34) and Kurt Cornick (19)were climbing Mt. Hood’s Castle Crags route. They reached the arete at the top of the Crags by 0700. The arete ...
Makalu. Our members were Enrique de Pablo, Xabier Erro, Martín Zabaleta and I as leader. On April 8 we got to Base Camp at 5400 meters, where we found the American West Buttress expedition camped. We spent time acclimatizing on peaks and glaciers....
Nalumasortoq (2,045m), new route on south-southwest face of Central Pillar and first free ascent on any of the pillars. Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick attempt. On June 26, 2001 Petr Balcar, Pavel Jonák, Václav atava and Martin Vrkoslav from the Czech R...
Escape Routes. David Roberts. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1997. 267 pages. $22.95.It is hard to imagine a regular reader of this journal who is not familiar with at least some of the climbs of Dave Roberts. And it is almost as hard to imagine someo...
Puscanturpa Sur, El Guardian de Pachamama, to top of rock wall. Oriol Anglada (Catalunya) and I wanted to make our own contribution to the mountains. When we arrived in Lima, a mountain guide mentioned the walls of Puscanturpa, describing their be...