Oregon, Mt. Hood—On May 16, Harry McAllister (50), his son Keith (15), and Bob Bissett (31) completed an ascent of Mt. Hood by the usual south side route. The snow in the “chute” had been softened by a bright sun by the time the party was descendi...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite Valley, Sunnyside BenchOn October 8, Joe Presuto (51) was seriously injured in a fall on the jam crack, 5.9, on Sunnyside Bench.He protected right off the ground, placed four pieces in the first 40 fe...
Kham region: Jarjinjabo, Jantno Spire summit block, first ascent. In August Bernie Laforest, Ben Ditto, Jonathan Knight, Steve Cater, and I journeyed to the Jarjinjabo Massif in the Sichuan Province of China. With help from the American climber Jo...
This is the thirty-third issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the fourth that has been edited and published jointly by the American Alpine Club and the Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: Over forty mountaineering accidents are known ...
New Routes, Cho Oyu and Shisha PangmaWojciech Kurtyka, Klub Wysokogórski, Kraków, PolandTHE VIRGIN SOUTHWEST FACE of Cho Oyu and the central couloir of the south face of Shisha Pangma were the objectives of Swiss Jean Troillet, Erhard Loretan and ...
Merra, first known ascent. The name Anidesh Himal refers to the mountain range separating the Ramtang Glacier to the north and the Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Glacier to the south. The ca 10km-long massif is characterized by a striking, narrow ridge runni...
Bandaka. The Tohoku Gakuin University expedition, led by Genichi Hashimoto, was successful when on July 28 Kazuyoshi Matsukura and Takeshi Sato reached the summit of Bandaka (22,450 feet), having approached from the Anjuman Pass. Other members wer...
Icefield Ranges Research Project, St. Elias Mountains. The Icefield Ranges Research Project completed its second field season in August 1962. Whereas the 1961 field program was devoted to reconnaissance and the commencement of scientific study of ...
The Crack of Destiny. In March Joe Faint and I climbed a continuation of the Crack of Doom route which ends at the summit of Elephant Rock, instead of in the middle. Although three different routes go to the midpoint of the rock, a blank-appearing...
Mt. Assiniboine and Mt. EonLillian GestONE Sunday morning in the latter part of August, 1934, I started to walk into Mt. Assiniboine for a ten days’ trip. I. had Christian Häsler as my guide and had chosen the route up Brewster Creek. Dufflebags h...
Canadian Rockies, Various Activity. The summer of 1999 was a frustrating one in the Canadian Rockies. From sport climbs to big alpine routes, wet rock was the norm through mid-August. The Front Ranges were somewhat dryer and saw the most activity....
An Ascent of the Watzmann OstwandRichard N. MeyerTHE Watzmann, an 8900-foot peak in the Bavarian Alps, dominates the ancient little town of Berchtesgaden as majestically as the Matterhorn does Zermatt. Many thousands of Americans admire it every y...
The Free SalathéPaul Piana, UnaffiliatedIn 1961, A GREAT EXPANSE of unclimbed granite lay on the southwest face of Yosemite’s El Capitan. This wall was named for John Salathé, a pioneer in the development of Yosemite rock climbing and inventor of ...
Iowa Mountaineers. On December 16, 1993, the Iowa Mountaineers successfully completed its first 50 years of incorporation as a not-for-profit mountaineering club. John and Ede Ebert founded the club in 1940 and have been the guiding lights all the...
Howser Spire, West Face, Bugaboos. Ever since Yvon Chouinard and I made the circuit of the Howser Spires two years ago, the one climb in the Bugaboos that haunted me was the great western wall of its highest summit, Howser Spire. Estimates of its ...
North Chasm View Wall, Roasted Pork. In September Nick Meyer and I made the first ascent of Roasted Pork (IV 5.11 A1) on the far left side of the North Chasm View Wall. We approached the climb by descending the Cruise Gully. We then skirted the en...
The South Arête of Angel WingsGALEN ROWELLANGEL Wings rises vertically 1800 feet above Valhalla, a hanging granite valley near the headwaters of the Kaweah River in Sequoia National Park. So what? Mount Whitney rises 6128 feet above Whitney Portal...
FALL ON ICY ROCK-BLOWN OVER BY WINDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn June 25, James McDonald, Larry Susanka and Dan Sola (38) were attempting to climb the Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton in icy conditions with a storm in progress. Ar...
The 2006 Banff Mountain Book Festival competition—the 14th annual—received 113 booksfrom nine countries. Those were narrowed down to 29 finalists by a committee, and then toeight winners by jury members Audrey Salkeld, David Stevenson, and David L...
Pupuya Group, Cordillera Apolobamba. Our group consisted of Keisuke Miyasaki, Shigekazu Jodai, Shigeyuki Okajima, Terushige Ohta, Hidekazu Ninomiya and myself as leader. We all belong to the Asano School Alpine Club in Yokohama. On May 12 we left ...