In Memoriam AAJ
William Williams, 1862-1947

WILLIAM WILLIAMS 1862-1947William Williams was born in New London, Conn., on 2 June 1862, a son of Charles Augustus and Elizabeth Hoyt Williams. He was a descendant of William Williams who signed the Declaration of Independence. A bachelor, he di...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall/Slip on Snow, Inexperience, Inadequate Equipment—Washington, Mt. Rainier

FALL/SLIP ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—Washington, Mt. Rainier. Frederick Hamly (35) was cleaning a billy pot at Camp Hazard (11,000 feet). He was a member of an RMI expedition seminar. The top of the pot got away from him, and as h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Narsap Sarqa Fjord, Various Ascents

Narsap Sarqa Fjord, Various Ascents. It was reported that Britans Chris Bedford, Simon Inger, Henry Lickorish and Alastair Mitchell operated out of the head of Narsap Sarqa Fjord from July 24 to August 13 and made first ascents of the following: A...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Kangri Garpo Range, Mt. Ruoni, Attempt

Mt. Ruoni, attempt. The Kangri Garpo Range is located in the Zayul and Bomi Counties of Eastern Tibet. Since this region is close to the borders with both India and Myanmar, it has remained strictly off-limits to foreigners for many years. Even no...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, CIS—Kirgizia, Peaks Twelve Kilometers West of Pik Pobedy, Tien Shan

Peaks Twelve Kilometers West of Pik Pobedy, Tien Shan. Our expedition was composed of Austrians Leo Baumgartner, leader, Dr. Andreas Paul, Gernot Madritsch, Hubert Engl, Heli Ortner, Netherlander Ton Biesemaan and Germans Tom Stöger and me. On Sep...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Chasm View Wall, 8th Voyage

North Chasm View Wall, 8th Voyage, Black Canyon of the Gunnison. The 8th Voyage is a VI, 5.11d route located on North Chasm View Wall. It was put up by Jim Dunn and me in September. The route is located between the Stoned Oven and the Air Voyage. ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Utah, Salt Lake City, Pete's Rock

Utah, Salt Lake City, Petes Rock—On January 11, Curtis Hawkins (18), and Dick Wallin (16) were climbing on Pete’s Rock. They had been climbing for about one and a half hours before the accident. During this time Hawkins had been trying a lead on R...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Rolwaling Himal, Tengkangpoche, Attempts on North Side

Tengkangpoche, attempts on north side. As of the close of 2005 Tengkangpoche (6,487m), west of Namche Bazar, had been attempted by eight expeditions since it was brought onto the permitted list in 2002. All but one of these tried to climb the impr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Gangstang, Lahul

Gongstang, Lahul. An expedition led by Ashim Kumar Gosh Chowdhary approached Gangstang (6162 meters, 20,216 feet) via the Nisang valley. Four members reached the summit on September 2.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Kitchener

AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. KitchenerOn February 28, 1979, Scott Gilbert and Tom Pulaski, both of Denver, Colorado, left Highway 93 and started up the normal approach to the north face of Mt. Kitchener. Approximately 300 yards off the h...


Accident Reports ANAM
Weather — British Columbia, Comox, Mount Alber-Edward

WEATHERBritish Columbia, Comox, Mount Albert-EdwardThree climbers were reported overdue on September 17. They had been attempting a four- to five-day traverse which involved glacier travel in the Mount Albert-Edward area in the Comox region of Van...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Jasmaba Goth, West Ridge Attempt

Jasmaba Goth, west ridge attempt. Jasamba Goth is the name given to the 6,730m shoulder toward the end of the long northwest ridge of Pasang Lhamu Chuli, where the ridge splits into two branches; one falling north of west and the other south of we...


Notes AAJ
Canada, Glacier Camp of the A.A.C

Glacier Camp of the A.A.C. The 1947 camp of the Alpine Club of Canada was held at Glacier from July 13th to July 26th. It was located on the old Canadian Pacific Railway Glacier House site, as were the Sir Donald Camp of 1932 and the Arthur O. Whe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Langtang Ri

Langtang Ri. Virgin Langtang Ri (7239 meters, 23,750 feet) was climbed by its south ridge by a joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition led by Hideyuki Uematsu. Base Camp was established on September 20. On September 30, immediately after the big storm,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Sorcerer Group, Selkirks

Sorcerer Group, Selkirks. On August 20, W. S. Litterick and William J. Buckingham made the first ascent of “Mount Merlin” (9334 feet), between Fang Rock and Mount Graham. From Flat Creek Station we packed in to camp near the mouth of Farm Creek. W...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K2, South-Southeast Ridge, Ascent

K2, South-Southeast Ridge, Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by Yamamoto Atushi (33) put 12 members on the summit of K2 and recorded the third and fifth ascents of K-2’s south-southeast ridge. Deputy leader Matsubara Masayuki (31) led a team of si...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru-Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Oeste, North Face

Huandoy Oeste, North Face. I joined British climber Alan Hinkes for two climbs. We made a two-day ascent of Huandoy Norte by its northwest face for acclimatization. After a rest day, we camped at a small lake below the north face of Huandoy Oeste....


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Chearoco, Southeast Face

Chearoco, Southeast Face. Our expedition consisted of Mary Stigge, Jean Aschenbrenner, Wesley Berg and Jack Zuzack as members and Doug Solfermoser and myself as co-leaders. The objective was to climb Chearoco (6127m), the large peak to the southea...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Aguja de la S and St. Exupéry

Aguja de la S and St. Exupéry. After their successful ascent on the fourth try on December 3, 1986 of the Franco-Argentine route on Fitzroy, Austrians Hans Bärnthaler and Ewald Lidl returned to the region in late 1987. (Their companions Ernst Konz...


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Snow/Ice — California, Mount Whitney

SLIP ON SNOW/ICECalifornia, Mount WhitneyOn February 4, 1984, Rob Heineman (22) was descending the Mountaineers Route off Mount Whitney after a successful ascent of the East Face with his partner. The descent route is normally done third class, bu...