Langtang Lirung Tragedy. The two American climbers, leader Daniel Newell and Elliot Spake and Sherpa Gyalgen were killed by an avalanche on October 18 at 4900 meters when they were trying to descend to their 3775-meter Base Camp. They are believed...
Cordillera Apolobamba, Huancasayani Valley, first ascents and new routes. After receiving the AAC’s McNeill-Nott Award and funding from the New Zealand Alpine Club, James and Sarah Dempster (N.Z.), Aaron Gillespie (N.Z.), and I explored the remote...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE California, Disappointment PeakOn the morning of September 13,1986, Scott Denton (30) and Don Kershaw (28) started off on what was to be a long day of climbing. They planned to climb Disappoi...
By Cargo Boat and Mountain, by Marie Beuzeville Byles. J. B. Lippincott Co., Philadelphia, Pa., 1931. $5.00.This brief but vivid account of an unconventional world tour, wherein the authoress attempts to cover as many mountain regions as the slow ...
K2 Attempt. The Navarra K2 Expedition was composed of Mari Abrego, Dr. Javier Garayoa, José Manuel Casimiro, José María Donazar, Juan María Equillor, Jesús Moreno, Javier Muru, Agustín Setuain and me as leader. We started from Dassu with 300 porte...
Nevado Ulta to summit ridge, west-northwest face, solo. The two days of walking, battling for space in chicken-filled collectivos, and bus transport played hell with my battered body. Al Powell and I had been attempting a new line on the southeast...
Mountaineering and MysticismJ. W. A. HicksonMYSTICISM, a term derived from the significant Greek word µ?e?? to shut the eyes,—µ?st??, one who is initiated into the mysteries—indicates a phase or state of feeling rather than of thought, which from...
The complex massif of Mount Lucania rises to 17,147 feet in the St. Elias Mountains, only 50 miles north of Mount Logan. Before we started, no route had yet been completed on its southeast face for obvious reasons. The ridges are all long and dr...
Tuttle Creek, Goin’ Nuts. In August 1974, Elliot Dubreuil and I climbed the red wall just west of Stonehouse Buttress on the south face of Lone Pine Peak. I believe that it was the first time this wall had been climbed, the other south face routes...
DONALD WINCHESTER BROWN 1910-1952Donald Brown died on 21 December 1952 in a tragic automobile accident near Poughkeepsie, New York. Thus ended a career into which a love of mountains and travel were inextricably woven.Donald was drawn to the mount...
Mikeno: We hear that our honorary member, His Majesty, the King of the Belgians, has recently during his tour of the Congo, attempted the ascent of this volcanic peak, 14,350 feet high, north of Lake Tanganyika. The party consisting, in addition t...
Ojos del Salado. We were startled to read in the press that on January 22, 1955, a group of the Argentinian Associatión Tucumana de Andismo had made an ascent of a peak higher than Aconcagua. They claimed that the Ojos del Salado was the highest p...
FALL ON SNOW, ROPED BUT NOT BELAYED, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonAt approximately 1230 on August 21, 1990, Kofler and Herbst (30) were descending from the summit of Mount Robson. Herbst fell and slid down the southwe...
Yalung Kang, Southwest Face Attempt. Our international expedition was composed of Czechoslovaks Leopold Sulovský, Miss Zdenka Pleskotová and me as leader and Italians Marco Berti, Gianluigi Visentin and Miss Dr. Monica Zambon. We had no high-altit...
1932. Minya Konka (Gongga Shan)Nick ClinchAt 2:40 p.m. on October 28, 1932, Terris Moore and Richard Burdsall stood on the summit of Minya Konka. At 24,891 feet, this was the highest mountain in western China, and the highest mountain to be summit...
Western Hajar, various first ascents. Following our visit to Oman reported in AAJ 2006, pp. 295- 296, Geoff Hornby and I returned to the Western Hajar in January 2007. As before, our aim was to climb new alpine-style routes on the textured limesto...
Machapuchare. Machapuchare is a southern outlier of Annapurna III, connected with the main Annapurna chain to the north by a very long and jagged ridge. Its name means "the fish’s tail,” since it has two summits of almost equal height which give i...
Annapurna III, South Ridge, Attempt. Six years after our first try on Annapurna III (7555m), we were back again. In 1994, we were very close to success, but on the only day of bad weather, one team member, Beno Dolinsek, disappeared near the high ...
South face of El Plata. Four Polish climbers living in Buenos Aires undertook to climb the extremely steep, difficult and rock-swept south face of El Plata (19,784 feet) above Mendoza. Perhaps the only comparable climb to it was the French ascent ...
For the second stage of our three-part DEVOLD Triple North Walls expedition, Jan Doudlebsky and I visited the Hindu Kush. We were inspired by an old book of photos from the 1965 Czechoslovak Uparisina expedition; as a boy I went to this book, drea...