Western Hajar, various first ascents. Following our visit to Oman reported in AAJ 2006, pp. 295- 296, Geoff Hornby and I returned to the Western Hajar in January 2007. As before, our aim was to climb new alpine-style routes on the textured limesto...
Machapuchare. Machapuchare is a southern outlier of Annapurna III, connected with the main Annapurna chain to the north by a very long and jagged ridge. Its name means "the fish’s tail,” since it has two summits of almost equal height which give i...
Annapurna III, South Ridge, Attempt. Six years after our first try on Annapurna III (7555m), we were back again. In 1994, we were very close to success, but on the only day of bad weather, one team member, Beno Dolinsek, disappeared near the high ...
South face of El Plata. Four Polish climbers living in Buenos Aires undertook to climb the extremely steep, difficult and rock-swept south face of El Plata (19,784 feet) above Mendoza. Perhaps the only comparable climb to it was the French ascent ...
For the second stage of our three-part DEVOLD Triple North Walls expedition, Jan Doudlebsky and I visited the Hindu Kush. We were inspired by an old book of photos from the 1965 Czechoslovak Uparisina expedition; as a boy I went to this book, drea...
GEORGE E. GOLDTHWAITE 1890-1960None loved better to walk in the hills of the Hudson Highlands and few knew more about them than did George Goldthwaite. So it seemed quite as George would have wished it that death came as he was on his way to his c...
A Traverse of the Grand TetonsAllen P. SteckHerrliche Berge, Sonnige Höhen. Bergvagabunden sind wir.*Part 1It is not so strange to suggest that the failure of a complex mountaineering venture can be an inescapable prerequisite to its subsequent su...
The Torugart-Too is a range of glaciated peaks rising to 5,000m on the border between Kyrgyzstan and China. There have been few expeditions, but the highest peak, Mustyr (5,108m), was first climbed in 2007 by Barney Harford and Pat Littlejohn. Fro...
Peak 9980, East Face. This peak, which lies between the two forks of Cascade Canyon, was named Yosemite Peak by the party that made the first ascent of the east face on September 6, Fred Beckey and Ken Weeks. Two broad tree-covered ledges divide t...
On New Rock-Climbing Equipment and Its UseYvon Chouinard and Thomas M. FrostDURING the last ten years a revolution has taken place in the field of technical rock climbing. Many of the advances in this revolution are associated with the high rise i...
Everest, Southwest Face in Winter. The southwest face of Everest, very seldom successfully scaled in any season, saw its first ascent in wintertime by a small but highly experienced team of seven Japanese aided by 28 strong Sherpas in the unusuall...
Annapurna BattlegroundEric SimonsonUNDER THE LEADERSHIP of Bob Wilson, our group of friends and friends of friends was convinced we could climb Annapurna in a semi-alpine “McKinley” style, carrying our own loads, without oxygen or Sherpa support. ...
The Mazamas. Problems with governmental agencies proliferated in 1998. The Oregon State Marine Board continued its vendetta to classify, regulate and tax the Mazamas as a commercial guide. The U.S. Forest Service took the same stance toward the Ma...
FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons FlatsOn the morning of July 1, Ranger Sam Wick (27) climber Kevin Laney, and I left Camp Schurman around 06:00 for a summit climb. Conditions were excellent with good weather, light winds, and fi...
Light TravelerOn a long Alaskan single-push ascent, it can feel like forever has come and gone already. Fighting off sleep and dehydration on new and newly freed routes up Denali, the Mini-Moonflower, and Mt. Hunter.Stephen KochFive. That is the n...
North Cascades National Park—A Moutaineering ParkJoan Firey, MountaineersTHE North Cascades National Park encompasses some outstanding mountaineering with a variety of mixed ice and rock climbing. Its complex geology of highly metamorphosed gneiss...
Latok III, third ascent. No doubt influenced by the inclusion of the route in the seminal book, Himalayan Alpine Style, Alvaro Novellon and Oscar Perez of Spain made the third ascent of the southwest ridge of 6,949m Latok III, also the third ascen...
AAC, New England Section. We had 82 members and guests in attendance at the Section’s 5th Annual Black Tie Dinner—almost a record. Joe Terravecchia gave a professional show of routes on Mounts Hunter and Foraker in Alaska. Peter Grote exhibited 14...
FRANCES ANDREWS MULLEN1902-1991Frances Mullen died on April 14 in Sherman Oaks, California of Alzheimer’s disease. She had been a member of the A AC since 1967 and was also an active member of the Chicago Mountaineering Club and the Sierra Club.Sh...
Gangotri, Bhagirathi III-IV col, west face. A team of six young French alpinists, under the guidance of Frederic Gentet and Christophe Moulin, hoped to repeat classic rock routes on Bhagirathi III. Snowfall of one and a half meters at base camp pr...