In the second half of August, Ryan Hokanson and I enjoyed a great trip to the remote Arrigetch Peaks in Gates of the Arctic National Park. After flying for an hour from Fairbanks to Betties, then another hour to Circle Lake, we walked for two da...
ROBERT MANLY ORMES1904-1994The name Ormes conjures up to Colorado adventurers of the past several decades immediate images of a vast array of mountain terrain. The Ormes Guide to the Colorado Mountains was initially printed in 1952 and now is in t...
Sadao Tambe 1916–2007Sadao Tambe, born in Kyoto, Japan, learned climbing as a member of the famous Keio University Alpine Club. After earning his degree in economics in 1939, Sadao started his career in management with Nippon Yusen Kaisha, one of ...
Colorado Mountain Club. One hundred and eleven hiking and climbing trips were participated in by over 2000 persons from the Denver Group during the spring, summer, and fall months. One of these trips in August was a joint one with the Forest Servi...
Kangchenjunga, North Face Attempt. We arrived at Base Camp at Pangpema on April 6 after a 13-day trek. The team consisted of John Roskelley, leader, Dr. Robin Houston, Gregg Cronn, Kim Momb, Canadian Laurie Skreslet and me as assistant leader. We ...
Singing on the SummitElizabeth S. CowlesWITH all the writing that has been done about the joys of mountaineering, it has always seemed strange to me that so little mention is made of music in the mountains. For my part, I have never considered a ...
Conquering Mount Alberta, 1925Jean Weber forewordJEAN WEBER, a young Swiss, came to Canada as an emigre and fell in with high adventure—the first ascent of the last great unclimbed peak of the Canadian Rockies.Several years before, in Switzerland,...
YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CANTotal Number of Persons Involved USA-CanInjuredUSA-CANKilledUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— 2196047— 464— 1237— 819—...
Annapurna IV. Our expedition was made up of Osamu Yamamoto, Noboru Yokoyama, Mikio Takamatsu and me as leader. We set up Base Camp at 11,500 feet in the Salatang Khola above Pisang on April 2. We climbed Annapurna’snorth ridge. Camps I, II, III an...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWest Virginia, Seneca Rocks, Triple SiRegrettably I must report my involvement in another climbing accident. I was leading Triple Si, a dihedral climb on August 10. About ten feet from the top, I was having troub...
Northernmost Peaks on the Continental Divide, Romanzof Mountains. I began this soujourn at Okpilak Lake with three Swiss climbers. After an ascent of Mount Michelson, we entered the Arey Creek drainage. Granite P 8405 stood directly north of our c...
Schweizerland, first ascents. In late June the Cambridge University East Greenland Expedition set off for Schweizerland. Our destination was an area of 20km by 40km situated to east of the Knud Rasmussen Glacier, just south of the Arctic Circle. O...
Langtang Lirung Tragedy. The two American climbers, leader Daniel Newell and Elliot Spake and Sherpa Gyalgen were killed by an avalanche on October 18 at 4900 meters when they were trying to descend to their 3775-meter Base Camp. They are believed...
Cordillera Apolobamba, Huancasayani Valley, first ascents and new routes. After receiving the AAC’s McNeill-Nott Award and funding from the New Zealand Alpine Club, James and Sarah Dempster (N.Z.), Aaron Gillespie (N.Z.), and I explored the remote...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE California, Disappointment PeakOn the morning of September 13,1986, Scott Denton (30) and Don Kershaw (28) started off on what was to be a long day of climbing. They planned to climb Disappoi...
By Cargo Boat and Mountain, by Marie Beuzeville Byles. J. B. Lippincott Co., Philadelphia, Pa., 1931. $5.00.This brief but vivid account of an unconventional world tour, wherein the authoress attempts to cover as many mountain regions as the slow ...
K2 Attempt. The Navarra K2 Expedition was composed of Mari Abrego, Dr. Javier Garayoa, José Manuel Casimiro, José María Donazar, Juan María Equillor, Jesús Moreno, Javier Muru, Agustín Setuain and me as leader. We started from Dassu with 300 porte...
Nevado Ulta to summit ridge, west-northwest face, solo. The two days of walking, battling for space in chicken-filled collectivos, and bus transport played hell with my battered body. Al Powell and I had been attempting a new line on the southeast...
Mountaineering and MysticismJ. W. A. HicksonMYSTICISM, a term derived from the significant Greek word µ?e?? to shut the eyes,—µ?st??, one who is initiated into the mysteries—indicates a phase or state of feeling rather than of thought, which from...
The complex massif of Mount Lucania rises to 17,147 feet in the St. Elias Mountains, only 50 miles north of Mount Logan. Before we started, no route had yet been completed on its southeast face for obvious reasons. The ridges are all long and dr...