SLIP ON SNOW, FALL INTO MOATWashington, Monte Cristo PeakThe climb began at 5:20 a.m. on August 22 from the Glacier Basin trailhead above the Monte Cristo resort area. I led the party at a moderate pace to the basin. All party members except for G...
AVALANCHENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, King RavineKing Ravine is a large glacial cirque located in the Northern Presidential Range. It features several prominent avalanche paths and starting zones. There are no avalanche forecasts issued for th...
One Hundred Years of Crossings of Greenland’s Inland Ice*Gunnar Jensen, Arctic Expeditions Adviser, DenmarkMORE THAN ONE HUNDRED YEARS ago, in the autumn of 1888, the ice-covered interior highlands of Greenland were explored by the Norwegian polar...
Unsupported crossing of the Western Kun Lun and attempt on Pt. 6,903m. In September a Russian team jointly led by Boris Malakhov and me, with Michael Bertov, Paul Demeshchik, and Sergey Zajko, made a northeast-to-southwest crossing of the Western ...
FREDERIC KING BUTTERS1878 - 1945Professor Butters was born at Minneapolis, Minn., on February 8, 1878, and died there August 1, 1945. He was unmarried. The family name was originally Butter, his ancestors coming from Scotland and settling in Wobur...
STRANDED – WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, HYPOTHERMIACalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Half DomeEnglish climbers Justin (28) and Luke (about 25) arrived in the Valley in May, intent on climbing the regular Northwest Face of Half Dome (24 pitches, VI 5....
AVALANCHE, HYPOTHERMIA, FROSTBITEBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mount SheerOn Saturday, November 27, 1982, six youths and their adult leader were climbing Mount Sheer on showshoes. A total of 40 centimeters of snow had fallen during the previo...
NecrologyJames K. Angell, Jr.Bob HardyP. Jim RatzJohn William AugensteinMorgan HarrisKenneth L. RinehartMads AulumScott David HyslopChristine SeashorePatrick ClarkRobert F. KampsPhilip E. SharpeHenry E. Everding, IIIVera KomarkovaJohnny Soderstrom...
In the second half of August, Ryan Hokanson and I enjoyed a great trip to the remote Arrigetch Peaks in Gates of the Arctic National Park. After flying for an hour from Fairbanks to Betties, then another hour to Circle Lake, we walked for two da...
ROBERT MANLY ORMES1904-1994The name Ormes conjures up to Colorado adventurers of the past several decades immediate images of a vast array of mountain terrain. The Ormes Guide to the Colorado Mountains was initially printed in 1952 and now is in t...
Sadao Tambe 1916–2007Sadao Tambe, born in Kyoto, Japan, learned climbing as a member of the famous Keio University Alpine Club. After earning his degree in economics in 1939, Sadao started his career in management with Nippon Yusen Kaisha, one of ...
Colorado Mountain Club. One hundred and eleven hiking and climbing trips were participated in by over 2000 persons from the Denver Group during the spring, summer, and fall months. One of these trips in August was a joint one with the Forest Servi...
Kangchenjunga, North Face Attempt. We arrived at Base Camp at Pangpema on April 6 after a 13-day trek. The team consisted of John Roskelley, leader, Dr. Robin Houston, Gregg Cronn, Kim Momb, Canadian Laurie Skreslet and me as assistant leader. We ...
Singing on the SummitElizabeth S. CowlesWITH all the writing that has been done about the joys of mountaineering, it has always seemed strange to me that so little mention is made of music in the mountains. For my part, I have never considered a ...
Conquering Mount Alberta, 1925Jean Weber forewordJEAN WEBER, a young Swiss, came to Canada as an emigre and fell in with high adventure—the first ascent of the last great unclimbed peak of the Canadian Rockies.Several years before, in Switzerland,...
YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CANTotal Number of Persons Involved USA-CanInjuredUSA-CANKilledUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— 2196047— 464— 1237— 819—...
Annapurna IV. Our expedition was made up of Osamu Yamamoto, Noboru Yokoyama, Mikio Takamatsu and me as leader. We set up Base Camp at 11,500 feet in the Salatang Khola above Pisang on April 2. We climbed Annapurna’snorth ridge. Camps I, II, III an...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWest Virginia, Seneca Rocks, Triple SiRegrettably I must report my involvement in another climbing accident. I was leading Triple Si, a dihedral climb on August 10. About ten feet from the top, I was having troub...
Northernmost Peaks on the Continental Divide, Romanzof Mountains. I began this soujourn at Okpilak Lake with three Swiss climbers. After an ascent of Mount Michelson, we entered the Arey Creek drainage. Granite P 8405 stood directly north of our c...
Schweizerland, first ascents. In late June the Cambridge University East Greenland Expedition set off for Schweizerland. Our destination was an area of 20km by 40km situated to east of the Knud Rasmussen Glacier, just south of the Arctic Circle. O...