Annapurna I, east ridge, third ascent. One of the most notable accomplishments of the season was the second two- way traverse of the east ridge of Annapurna I (8,091m). When the well-known Polish climber, Piotr Pustelnik, organized his four-man te...
Silverton and Monte Cristo Area. This area contains many minor summits with routes of moderate difficulty which provide enjoyable early season climbing. “Sawhorse Peak” (6880 feet) is located at the intersection of the ridge running east from East...
MARCUS MORTON1893-1989Marcus Morton was born on August 13,1893 in Newton Massachusetts, the third in the family to bear that name, the first being a distinguished governor of the Commonwealth. He attended Groton School and then Yale College, from ...
Irian Jaya, Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m), north face, Root Matrix.After summiting Carstensz, Charlie Mace, Erik Weihenmayer, and I had a spare day before a helicopter arrived to take us out. Erik graciously requested that Charlie and I try to establ...
Kingnait Fiord, Baffin Island. Our expedition of seven climbers arrived at Pangnirtung on July 25 and after seven hours on July 27 arrived by boat at the head of Kingnait Fiord. The region had been explored in 1972 and 1973 by Dr. G. Cochran’s exp...
Mount Zeke, Northwest Arête. In early April, local Natanuska Glacier pilot Billy Stevenson and I flew an aerial recon for Nova Adventure Company, scoping mountain and glacier routes for guiding. After looking at peaks in five major drainages, we f...
Cordilleras Real, Quimsa Cruz, and Calzada. Invited by the Bolivian president, then Dr. Víctor Paz Estenssoro, the Asociación Poblano de Excursionismo (Puebla Touring Association), supported by the Federatión Mexicano de Excursionismo, began its p...
The Mazamas. For The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, safety is the dominant theme in the club’s numerous mountaineering endeavors. Under the highest standards of safety, the Climbing Committee conducts mountaineering education programs, schedules and...
Pigeon Spire, East Face Variation, Bugaboos. In August, 1978 Robin Kinnaird and I made a variant of the Kor-Cooper route on the east face of Pigeon Spire. We followed this fine route until we reached the long, left-facing dihedral near the center ...
The Catacomb and East Ridges of Mount McKinleyJoseph K. DavidsonAS I made new steps beside it, I noticed that the cornice fracture line was much wider than on the ascent twelve days before. Suddenly light appeared through the fracture line and a h...
Soviet Climbs in Asia, 1964. Also reported in Alpinismus are accounts of climbs done in 1964. B. Romanow led a group which first made the first ascent of a nameless 20,571-foot peak in the Tien Shan. They then made a new route on Khan Tengri (22,9...
WALTER ABBOTT WOOD1908-1993Walter Abbott Wood was born in Hoosick Falls, New York in 1908. He was educated at St. Paul’s School in Concord, New Hampshire and then for four years in Zürich, Switzerland, where he studied surveying and began his clim...
California, Joshua Tree National Monument (2)—William McAllister (45) was a member of a Long Beach church group which was camping at Indian Cove Campground on the weekend of November 12-13. McAllister, along with his wife, his church pastor, and o...
Sixth-Class Climbing in the Sawtooth RangeJack SchwablandTHAT part of the Sawtooth Range lying just west of the StanleyBasin in central Idaho is a wonderful place for the advanced rock climber to practise his art. It is a land of beautiful scenery...
FALLING ICE Washington, Mt. RainierDr. John DonLou (34), anesthesiologist from Palos Verdes, California, said today he is still “shell-shocked” over the loss of his right arm in a climbing accident on Mt. Rainier and doesn’t know what the future h...
Chopicalqui, Cordillera Blanca. On July 12 Dr. Alan Cooper, Jim Janney, Bill Phillips and I reached the previously unclimbed summit of the spectacular gendarme of approximately 20,000 feet which rises about 400 feet above the north ridge. Except f...
FALLING ROCKNew Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, Sam’s Swan SongOn May 17, John Bouchard and Mark Richey were climbing fast in preparation for an attempt on the Himalayan peak Latok. High on the cliff, Mark was climbing second to John when a large flake M...
Chomo Lonzo North, southwest face to summit ridge. Although we left Kathmandu on April 15, it was not until the 24th that I arrived at my 4,750m base camp below Chomo Lonzo. There had been so much snow on the approach that in places I had to break...
Colorado Mountain Club. 1962 has been the Fiftieth Anniversary Year of the Colorado Mountain Club, and during the year the members joined an increased number of activities to promote climbing, to enhance mountaineering safety, and to make the gene...
Mount Redoubt, East Face, Ramparts. The great Rampart walls of Oubliette, Dungeon and Redoubt rise some 3000 feet above Amethyst Lake, one of the grandest sights in the mountains of Canada. The magnificent buttress on the east face of Redoubt seem...