Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CANTotal Number of Persons Involved USA-CanInjuredUSA-CANKilledUSA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— 2196047— 464— 1237— 819—...


Club Activities AAJ
Memphis Mountaineers, Inc.

Annapurna IV. Our expedition was made up of Osamu Yamamoto, Noboru Yokoyama, Mikio Takamatsu and me as leader. We set up Base Camp at 11,500 feet in the Salatang Khola above Pisang on April 2. We climbed Annapurna’snorth ridge. Camps I, II, III an...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, West Virginia, Senece Rocks, Triple Si

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWest Virginia, Seneca Rocks, Triple SiRegrettably I must report my involvement in another climbing accident. I was leading Triple Si, a dihedral climb on August 10. About ten feet from the top, I was having troub...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Northmost Peaks on the Continental Divide, Romanzof Mountains

Northernmost Peaks on the Continental Divide, Romanzof Mountains. I began this soujourn at Okpilak Lake with three Swiss climbers. After an ascent of Mount Michelson, we entered the Arey Creek drainage. Granite P 8405 stood directly north of our c...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Schweizerland, First Ascents

Schweizerland, first ascents. In late June the Cambridge University East Greenland Expedition set off for Schweizerland. Our destination was an area of 20km by 40km situated to east of the Knud Rasmussen Glacier, just south of the Arctic Circle. O...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Langshisha Ri Attempt

Langtang Lirung Tragedy. The two American climbers, leader Daniel Newell and Elliot Spake and Sherpa Gyalgen were killed by an avalanche on October 18 at 4900 meters when they were trying to descend to their 3775-meter Base Camp. They are believed...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillear Apolobamba, Huancasayani Valley, First Ascents and New Routes

Cordillera Apolobamba, Huancasayani Valley, first ascents and new routes. After receiving the AAC’s McNeill-Nott Award and funding from the New Zealand Alpine Club, James and Sarah Dempster (N.Z.), Aaron Gillespie (N.Z.), and I explored the remote...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Failure to Follow Route, California, Disappointment Peak

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE California, Disappointment PeakOn the morning of September 13,1986, Scott Denton (30) and Don Kershaw (28) started off on what was to be a long day of climbing. They planned to climb Disappoi...


Book Reviews AAJ
By Cargo Boat and Mountain

By Cargo Boat and Mountain, by Marie Beuzeville Byles. J. B. Lippincott Co., Philadelphia, Pa., 1931. $5.00.This brief but vivid account of an unconventional world tour, wherein the authoress attempts to cover as many mountain regions as the slow ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K2 Attempt

K2 Attempt. The Navarra K2 Expedition was composed of Mari Abrego, Dr. Javier Garayoa, José Manuel Casimiro, José María Donazar, Juan María Equillor, Jesús Moreno, Javier Muru, Agustín Setuain and me as leader. We started from Dassu with 300 porte...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Ulta to Summit Ridge, West-Northwest Face, Solo

Nevado Ulta to summit ridge, west-northwest face, solo. The two days of walking, battling for space in chicken-filled collectivos, and bus transport played hell with my battered body. Al Powell and I had been attempting a new line on the southeast...


Feature Article AAJ
Mountaineering and Mysticism

Mountaineering and MysticismJ. W. A. HicksonMYSTICISM, a term derived from the significant Greek word µ?e?? to shut the eyes,—µ?st??, one who is initiated into the mysteries—indicates a phase or state of feeling rather than of thought, which from...


Feature Article AAJ
Harmony Ridge — Lucania's Southeast Ridge

The complex massif of Mount Lucania rises to 17,147 feet in the St. Elias Mountains, only 50 miles north of Mount Logan. Before we started, no route had yet been completed on its southeast face for obvious reasons. The ridges are all long and dr...

| Keywords
| Published 1977 | Author Steven Gaskill


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Tuttle Creek, Goin' Nuts

Tuttle Creek, Goin’ Nuts. In August 1974, Elliot Dubreuil and I climbed the red wall just west of Stonehouse Buttress on the south face of Lone Pine Peak. I believe that it was the first time this wall had been climbed, the other south face routes...


In Memoriam AAJ
Donald Winchester Brown, 1910-1952

DONALD WINCHESTER BROWN 1910-1952Donald Brown died on 21 December 1952 in a tragic automobile accident near Poughkeepsie, New York. Thus ended a career into which a love of mountains and travel were inextricably woven.Donald was drawn to the mount...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Belgian Congo, Mikeno

Mikeno: We hear that our honorary member, His Majesty, the King of the Belgians, has recently during his tour of the Congo, attempted the ascent of this volcanic peak, 14,350 feet high, north of Lake Tanganyika. The party consisting, in addition t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Ojos del Salado

Ojos del Salado. We were startled to read in the press that on January 22, 1955, a group of the Argentinian Associatión Tucumana de Andismo had made an ascent of a peak higher than Aconcagua. They claimed that the Ojos del Salado was the highest p...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Roped but not Belayed, Inexperience, British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount Robson

FALL ON SNOW, ROPED BUT NOT BELAYED, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonAt approximately 1230 on August 21, 1990, Kofler and Herbst (30) were descending from the summit of Mount Robson. Herbst fell and slid down the southwe...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

Yalung Kang, Southwest Face Attempt. Our international expedition was composed of Czechoslovaks Leopold Sulovský, Miss Zdenka Pleskotová and me as leader and Italians Marco Berti, Gianluigi Visentin and Miss Dr. Monica Zambon. We had no high-altit...


Feature Article AAJ
1932. Minya Konka (Gongga Shan)

1932. Minya Konka (Gongga Shan)Nick ClinchAt 2:40 p.m. on October 28, 1932, Terris Moore and Richard Burdsall stood on the summit of Minya Konka. At 24,891 feet, this was the highest mountain in western China, and the highest mountain to be summit...