American Skiers in China’s Wild WestNed GilletteDICK DORWORTH AMBLES slowly through the ancient streets. He is unescorted except for the usual ragtag army of street urchins. A young Moslem who is not Chinese stops him. Pointing at this black-beard...
Iowa Mountaineers. During 1952 the Club sponsored an outstanding number of major activities. The Summer Camp in the Tetons attracted 41 participants. The Christmas holiday climbing outing to Mexico attracted 16 participants and culminated in the a...
High Adventure, by Edmund Hillary. 256 pages with 31 plates, 10 maps and drawings, and pen sketches by G. Djurkovic. New York: E. P. Dutton and Co., 1955. Price, $4.50.For decades adventure-minded readers have vicariously lived the struggles of gr...
A New Route on The Wickersham WallMOUNT McKINLEY, NORTH FACE DIRECTHenry L. AbronsWe sought a challenge on ice and rock. The Alaska Range is rich in possibilities, but after considering the time and cost of such a venture we inevitably faced the q...
Facing the Extreme: One Woman’s Story of True Courage, Death-Defying Survival and Her Quest for the Summit. Ruth Ann Kocour with Michael Hodgson. St. Martin’s: New York, 1998. 256 pages. $22.95.Facing the Extreme does not merit inclusion in the AA...
FOOTHOLD BROKE OFF – FALL ON ROCKIdaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Castle RockOn May 21 at 11:45 a.m., volunteer camp host Dottie Cross (63) broke a foothold and fell while attempting to lead the upper pitch of “One For Matt” on Castle Rock. ...
IgikpakDavid S. Roberts“THE LANDSCAPE was one of the bleakest imaginable,” wrote S. B. McLenegan in 1885. “Not a sign of life was anywhere visible, and the cold piercing blasts which swept across the tundra caused us to realize keenly the solitude...
Degrees of Difficulty. Vladimir Shatayev. Translated from the Russian by Deborah Piranian. Foreword by Pete Schoening. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1987. 194 pages, 13 black-and-white photographs. $10.95 (paper).In this book the great Soviet climber...
The Southeast Face of Mount TempleArthur Gran, Club de Montagne CanadienJohn Hudson and I had come to attempt the 4000-foot southeast face of Mount Temple, the tenth highest peak in the range. John, probably one of the most promising young mountai...
Gangotri I and III and Rudugaira. Of a ten-member expedition of the Corps of Electrical and Mechanical Engineers, Majors J.K. Bajaj, I. S. Kumar and S.L. Deora, Captains P.P. Rao and K.B. Sood, Havildar Kuldip Singh, Havildar Sherpa Natembu and Sh...
FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE, LOSS OF CONCENTRATION California, Yosemite Valley, Cathedral SpiresOn the evening of May 27, 1992, the park received a report of an accident on Higher Cathedral Rock. The reporting party had been on the Cathedral Spires at 1...
Hermann Buhl: Climbing without Compromise. Reinhold Messner and Horst Hofler. Translated by Tim Carruthers. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 2000. 205 pages. $24.95.Until this book, the only written material that was available for most of us on the li...
FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD, SEATED BELAYERColorado, Shelf RoadDespite the rain and a recent shoulder dislocation, Joe (32) and Chris (35) decided to keep their plans to climb at Shelf Road to celebrate the end of a hard semester of grad sc...
THE Dream: I am inside an impeccably constructed stone building with a high beam ceiling and a fifty-foot- wide level concrete floor. The only adornments are a huge stone fireplace and three beds with mattresses. I suddenly realize that the ...
Nameless Trango Tower, Eternal Flame Route. Our expedition was composed of Milan Sykora, Christoph Stiegler, Wolfgang Güllich and me. Our goal was to establish a new route on the south face of the Nameless Tower in free-climbing or Rotpunkt (red p...
Three Peaks Mountain (Mahindra), southeast summit, The Taming of the Shrew. Our four-man Russian team, Eugene Korol, Alex Soshnikov, Dmitrii Vlaznev, and I, intended to climb a virgin mountain via a route of the highest grade of difficulty (6B in ...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, UNDERESTIMATED CONDITIONS Alaska, Mount HunterOn May 5, 1994, Andy Carson and Charles Crago triggered an avalanche and were carried 800 feet down the route they were attempting on Mount Hunter.The team—totaling five peopl...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION Alaska, Mount HunterOn May 13, 1996, Marcus von Zitzewitz and Olaf Hecklinger were killed when an avalanche swept them off their climbing route on Mount Hunter.On May 5, four Germans, Peter Fresia, Franz Perchtold, Marcus ...
FRANCIS P. FARQUHAR1887-1974Francis P. Farquhar died at his home in Berkeley, California on November 21, 1974. Mountaineer, scholar, writer, book collector, and conservationist, he was a living institution at the hub of an ever expanding circle of...
Silverthrone. After we were landed by Doug Geeting in the spectacular Ruth Amphitheater, we skied eight miles to the base of an icefall, established our third camp at the top of the icefall, and skied around Silverthrone, gaining the summit ridge ...