Crystal Creek Tower, South Face Stuart Range. On July 4 Shari Kearney, Steve Mitchell and I climbed a clean, short wall on the tower’s south face. Obvious jam-cracks led up the center of the face. NCCS II, F8.Alan Kearney
Fourteen-Hour Pinnacle, Southeast Couloir. An apparently easier but more dangerous route to this summit was found on August 5 by Dennis Menhet and Alan Rubin; no direct aid was used. After scrambling up about one third of the gully to the left of ...
Mir Samir. Mir Samir (19,059 feet) was climbed on July 8 by Shuichi Tani, Junichi Chiba and Nobuki Togashi. This Chiba University expedition was led by Toshitaka Chuhma. Shinichi Konuki also took part.Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club
Climbs in Canyonlands National Park. Jeff Achey and I free-climbed the last aid route on Moses, a 500-foot sandstone tower in Taylory Canyon. Ironically, the route, though 5.11, was the easiest of the three routes on the tower. In the spring Charl...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount FreshfieldOn September 14, 1981, a party of four left Niverville Meadows to climb Mount Freshfield.They gained the summit via the south ridge and be...
Torres del Diablo and The Bader Valley, Various Ascents. On January 18, John Merriam, Dylan Taylor, Darrel Gschwendtner and I teamed up with Mark Slovak and Robert Bodrogi to visit the Torres del Diablo (a.k.a. Grupo La Paz). Five hours south of P...
La Esfinge, Dion’s Dihedral. On June 23, after two weeks of effort, Larry Dolecki and I climbed to the 5325-meter summit of La Esfinge, completing the first ascent of a big wall aid route on the mountain’s east face. La Esfinge is a beautiful alpi...
Kangchungtse (Makalu II). All members of an eight-man expedition climbed Kangchungtse’s east ridge from the north col. Base Camp was established on September 8 and Camp IV at 24,475 feet on October 8. On October 9 a Swiss and an American reached t...
Cathedral Pass. As a better route, superseding the Dennis and Duchesnay route from Field to Lake O’Hara, Cathedral Pass (8800 ft.) crosses between Mt. Stephen and the Cathedral massif. It is reached on the railroad side by a 3-mile walk or ride to...
Nanga Parbat. The German expedition of this last year, composed of W. Merkl, leader; Peter Aschenbrenner; F. Bechtold ; A. Drexel ; P. Müllritter; W. Welzenbach; U. Wieland; W. Bernard, doctor ; H. Hieronimus ; and E. Schneider as climbers made a ...
Puncak Trikora, 1987. On August 16, 1987, Günter and Werner Hönlinger and I made the first ascent of Puncak Trikora (4765 meters, 15,633 feet) by its west ridge.Wolfgang Axt, Österreichischer Alpenverein
FALL ON ROCK, DARKNESSNew York, ShawangunksOn October 20,1985, a man (35) had finished climbing late in the evening. He unroped and was going to relieve himself when he took a fatal fall to the ground from the top of Skytop Cliff. (Source: Tom Sch...
Khatang Attempt. Australians, John Lamb and Ray Vran, reached a high point of 6100 meters on Khatang (6782 meters, 22,250 feet) in the Rolwaling Himal on December 27. They were hoping to climb a new route, the northwest face. They abandoned the cl...
Mount Rainier, Willis Wall. In early May, Dusan Jagersky and I climbed about half way up the central rib on Mount Rainier’s Willis Wall when a large avalanche came within 100 yards of us and swept the entire right side of the wall. This, combined ...
There appears to be a renaissance of interest in the Himalaya. Last summer a German expedition from Munich attempted Kan- chenjunga and was only prevented from reaching the top by the onset of bad weather, when they had overcome the greatest diffi...
Satopanth. The Klub Wysokogórski Rzeszów organized an expedition to the Gangotri region led by Jerzy Wala. They climbed Satopanth by the normal north ridge. Above Advance Base at 5100 meters, they established Camps I and II at 5800 and 6300 meters...
Wyoming, Wind Rivers—Koven—On 20 July, Bob and Gail Bates, Fred Truslow and John Oberlin (43) were about 125 feet below the summit of Koven during the ascent, where they were forced to stop on a comfortable ledge when the blue sky was suddenly obs...
Pioniere der Alpen, by Carl Egger. 371 pages, with 24 portrait drawings. Zürich: Verlag Amstutz, Herdeg & Co., 1946.Here are presented 30 biographies of notable Swiss guides from Melchior Anderegg to Franz Lochmatter, forming an outline of mou...
Frank Smythe: The Six Alpine/Himalayan Climbing Books (Climbs and Ski Runs; The Kangchenjunga Adventure; Kamet Conquered; Camp Six; The Valley of Flowers; Mountaineering Holiday). Frank Smythe. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books; London: Bâton Wicks,...
Yankee Rock and Ice. Laura and Guy Waterman. Stackpole Books, Harrisburg,PA, 1992. 354 pages, 125 black-and-white illustrations. $24.95 (paper).You needn’t be a Yankee to relish this companion to the Waterman’s rich, Forest and Crag. You don’t eve...