Annapurna II, Winter Attempt. A British team, which included Ronald Rutland and his wife, set up Base Camp and Camps I, II and III on the north face of Annapurna II at 11,975, 13,775, 17,050 and 18,375 feet on November 24, December 1, 5 and 10 res...

P 7205, Philip Smith Mountains, Brooks Range. After a failed attempt on the south face of P 7240 above Echooka, our party passed to the Marsh Fork of the Canning River. The canyon here is reminiscent of the Alberta Rockies. We followed it west and...

Dorje Lhakpa. A joint expedition of seven Japanese and three Nepalese was led by Yoshihisa Nakano. They climbed the west ridge of Dorje Lhakpa, the same route as that of Japanese teams in 1981 and 1982. On October 3 Sawayuki Aoki, Masatoshi Ohkubo...

Annapurna Dakshin Winter Attempt. A seven-man Japanese expedition led by Masami Yamagata hoped to climb the south face of Annapurna Dakshin (South). They tried the south face for only one day. Because a huge avalanche came crashing down the face, ...

Fresno Dome, Blue Connection. This one-pitch route starts 50 feet to the right of Torn and Frayed and involves an easy ramp followed by a tricky face move and ending with an unprotected water groove. Jack Forsythe and I made the first ascent in Ju...

Ruwenzori: A group of Belgians under the leadership of Count Xavier de Grunne, with mountaineering and scientific aims, has left for the exploration of this range, and will approach the mountains from the Belgian Congo on the practically unknown w...

Kangchenjunga Attempt. The highly experienced Italian climber, Sergio Martini, managed to reach 8200 meters on the southwest face of Kangchenjunga on October 11. He and two Nepalese helpers became too exhausted to continue after a month’s effort.E...

Peaks in the San Juan Region, Central Andes. There are many first ascents and new routes to be made in this region. Cordillera de la Brea: This ridge had had only one previous ascent made by Juan Pablo Milana in 1987. At the beginning of 1993, Mar...

Cerro Catedral Group. Two more climbs of extreme difficulty were made in the Catedral group near Bariloche, both new routes. In March Anselmo Weber and Carlos Bottazzi climbed the Torre "La Vieja” shortly before Weber and Teodoro Sifuentes climbed...

Colorado, Boulder Mountain Park. Dan Franks and Guy Jenks, both 18 and University of Colorado students, began climbing the Third Flatiron about noon on December 2nd. The weather was sunny and warm, but a major winter storm had been predicted for l...

Mont Ross, Kerguelen Island. In the Indian Ocean at about 50° S. latitude, halfway between Australia and Africa, lies storm-buffeted Kerguelen Island. Its high point, Mont Ross, is only 6070 feet high, but it is heavily glaciated and where the roc...

Table Mountain, Central East Buttress. On September 7, Fred Beckey, Yvon Chouinard, and Ken Weeks ascended the gully separating the north from the central buttress only a short distance before turning left on a small ledge onto the central face. T...

Crystal Creek Tower, South Face Stuart Range. On July 4 Shari Kearney, Steve Mitchell and I climbed a clean, short wall on the tower’s south face. Obvious jam-cracks led up the center of the face. NCCS II, F8.Alan Kearney

Fourteen-Hour Pinnacle, Southeast Couloir. An apparently easier but more dangerous route to this summit was found on August 5 by Dennis Menhet and Alan Rubin; no direct aid was used. After scrambling up about one third of the gully to the left of ...

Mir Samir. Mir Samir (19,059 feet) was climbed on July 8 by Shuichi Tani, Junichi Chiba and Nobuki Togashi. This Chiba University expedition was led by Toshitaka Chuhma. Shinichi Konuki also took part.Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club

Climbs in Canyonlands National Park. Jeff Achey and I free-climbed the last aid route on Moses, a 500-foot sandstone tower in Taylory Canyon. Ironically, the route, though 5.11, was the easiest of the three routes on the tower. In the spring Charl...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount FreshfieldOn September 14, 1981, a party of four left Niverville Meadows to climb Mount Freshfield.They gained the summit via the south ridge and be...

Torres del Diablo and The Bader Valley, Various Ascents. On January 18, John Merriam, Dylan Taylor, Darrel Gschwendtner and I teamed up with Mark Slovak and Robert Bodrogi to visit the Torres del Diablo (a.k.a. Grupo La Paz). Five hours south of P...

La Esfinge, Dion’s Dihedral. On June 23, after two weeks of effort, Larry Dolecki and I climbed to the 5325-meter summit of La Esfinge, completing the first ascent of a big wall aid route on the mountain’s east face. La Esfinge is a beautiful alpi...

Kangchungtse (Makalu II). All members of an eight-man expedition climbed Kangchungtse’s east ridge from the north col. Base Camp was established on September 8 and Camp IV at 24,475 feet on October 8. On October 9 a Swiss and an American reached t...