FALLING ROCK, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Bugaboo—Snowpatch ColA party of three, N.G., J.G., and G.W., was ascending to the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col using a rope at 0800 on August 4. A boulder slid down the slope above t...
Trisul. Our four-man expedition ascended the Nandakini River to establish Base Camp at 4300 meters on September 17. We placed Camps I and II at 5150 and 5850 meters on September 19 and 24, despite the illness of two of our members. Between Camps I...
Cerro Torre, East Face, Attempt. A large Polish team (Artur Paszczak, Janusz Golab, Jacek Fluder, Stanislaw Piecuch and Zbignew Kroskiewicz) climbed 600 meters of a new route on Cerro Torre’s east face in January, 1996, but were unable to reach th...
The Nuns, Various Activity. Three new routes were established on The Nuns in Castle Valley. Bad Habit (5.11) climbs the east face and was put up by John Catto, Jay Smith, and Mark Hesse. Holier Than Thou (5.11c) weaves its way up a dramatic calcit...
Makalu, Solo and Without Oxygen. The Sherpas climbed with me up the ropes, fixed the day before, to Camp III on the Makalu La at 24,550 feet. They dropped their loads and descended to Camp II, leaving me alone, still 3275 feet below the summit on ...
Istoronal, Southwest Ridge, Ascent. Four Austrian climbers led by Doctor Roland Maruna recorded the third and fourth ascents of Istoronal (7380 m) on August 24 and 26 via the southwest ridge in alpine- style. Norbert Bannert (35) and mountain guid...
Mt. Grosvenor, The Warrior's Way, and Mt. Johnson, The Escalator, third ascent. In 2005 Eamonn Walsh and I climbed two new routes on Mt. Grosvenor in the lower Ruth Gorge, which also were the mountain’s second and third ascents (AAJ 2006). The bes...
SLIP ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount OliveOn August 10, 1984, a party of ten on a novice climbing course was forced to descend off Mount Olive, a moderate mixed climb, by an approaching thunders...
Annapurna II, Winter Attempt. A British team, which included Ronald Rutland and his wife, set up Base Camp and Camps I, II and III on the north face of Annapurna II at 11,975, 13,775, 17,050 and 18,375 feet on November 24, December 1, 5 and 10 res...
P 7205, Philip Smith Mountains, Brooks Range. After a failed attempt on the south face of P 7240 above Echooka, our party passed to the Marsh Fork of the Canning River. The canyon here is reminiscent of the Alberta Rockies. We followed it west and...
Dorje Lhakpa. A joint expedition of seven Japanese and three Nepalese was led by Yoshihisa Nakano. They climbed the west ridge of Dorje Lhakpa, the same route as that of Japanese teams in 1981 and 1982. On October 3 Sawayuki Aoki, Masatoshi Ohkubo...
Annapurna Dakshin Winter Attempt. A seven-man Japanese expedition led by Masami Yamagata hoped to climb the south face of Annapurna Dakshin (South). They tried the south face for only one day. Because a huge avalanche came crashing down the face, ...
Fresno Dome, Blue Connection. This one-pitch route starts 50 feet to the right of Torn and Frayed and involves an easy ramp followed by a tricky face move and ending with an unprotected water groove. Jack Forsythe and I made the first ascent in Ju...
Ruwenzori: A group of Belgians under the leadership of Count Xavier de Grunne, with mountaineering and scientific aims, has left for the exploration of this range, and will approach the mountains from the Belgian Congo on the practically unknown w...
Kangchenjunga Attempt. The highly experienced Italian climber, Sergio Martini, managed to reach 8200 meters on the southwest face of Kangchenjunga on October 11. He and two Nepalese helpers became too exhausted to continue after a month’s effort.E...
Peaks in the San Juan Region, Central Andes. There are many first ascents and new routes to be made in this region. Cordillera de la Brea: This ridge had had only one previous ascent made by Juan Pablo Milana in 1987. At the beginning of 1993, Mar...
Cerro Catedral Group. Two more climbs of extreme difficulty were made in the Catedral group near Bariloche, both new routes. In March Anselmo Weber and Carlos Bottazzi climbed the Torre "La Vieja” shortly before Weber and Teodoro Sifuentes climbed...
Colorado, Boulder Mountain Park. Dan Franks and Guy Jenks, both 18 and University of Colorado students, began climbing the Third Flatiron about noon on December 2nd. The weather was sunny and warm, but a major winter storm had been predicted for l...
Mont Ross, Kerguelen Island. In the Indian Ocean at about 50° S. latitude, halfway between Australia and Africa, lies storm-buffeted Kerguelen Island. Its high point, Mont Ross, is only 6070 feet high, but it is heavily glaciated and where the roc...
Table Mountain, Central East Buttress. On September 7, Fred Beckey, Yvon Chouinard, and Ken Weeks ascended the gully separating the north from the central buttress only a short distance before turning left on a small ledge onto the central face. T...