FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONUtah, Indian CreekDuring the first week of April, Paul Sullivan, Ian Herring, Matt Pinkley, Bill Saul, and I (40) hit the ground running on our first day. Really, Matt and I had never been in an environment like ...
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades). 2006 was a relatively slow year in southwest British Columbia, with few new routes to report compared to previous years. In part this reflects the ending of the spurt of ...
Mount Logan—East PeakDavid A. Collins and Gilbert J. RobertsTHE airdrop of supplies at the foot of Mount Logan, North America’s second highest mountain, was the most thrilling bit of flying we had ever experienced. In two flights with a Yakutat-ba...
Our basecamp at just over 5,000 meters was the highest I’d ever had, and not being a quick acclimatizer I was still nursing a throbbing headache after the first week. Potentially I might have been looking even less healthy than our liaison officer...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBER COLLISION, CRAMPON INJURY Yukon Territory, Saint Elias Range, Mount LoganOn June 1, 1986, a party of four was climbing the East Ridge of Mount Logan. They began climbing at 1100, after about 60 hours of snow, with an accumula...
AMS AND FRACTUREAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressIn June, lead guide Bill Allen of the guiding concession Mountain Trip brought client Joanne Devenish (42) to the 14,200-foot medical camp because she was turned around short of the summit, abou...
Howse Peak, Howse of Cards. In December Will Gadd, Kevin Mahoney, and I made the first complete ascent of the east face of Howse Peak. After the excitement over M-16 (Backes-Blanchard-House, 1999) and the gauntlet that was thrown down with “twice ...
JOSEPH HENRY SCATTERGOOD 1877-1953J. Henry Scattergood, a Founding Member of the Club, died June 15, 1953. He was born in Philadelphia and took degrees from both Haverford College and Harvard University. After graduation he began work with the Ame...
In summer 2009 Calle Martins, Mattias Sellden, Martin Urby, and I from Sweden spent four weeks in the Hermelndal at the head of the Tasermiut Fjord. The best-known climbed features in this valley are the Tininnertuup peaks II to IV. We set up camp...
This is the forty-second issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the eleventh that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: It seems to have been a bad year for loose b...
Gunnbjørns Fjeld, 1988, More Details. (This will help complete the report given in AAJ, 1989, page 164.) In addition to Greg Englefield, Nick Hulton,Lewis Jones and me, we were also accompanied by a film crew, Allen Jewhurst and Jan Pester. After ...
THOMAS J. GARGAN, SR.1920-1996During this past year we lost a dear friend and mentor, Thomas J. Gargan, Sr. He was born in Golden, Colorado, attended Golden High School, Notre Dame University and Regis College and received his Master’s degree in b...
ATRIAL FIBRILLATIONAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressJack Ziegler (50) registered with the National Park Service as a member of a Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., guided expedition, with Greg Collins being the lead guide. The...
Oschapalca, new route and various activity. After acclimatizing by guiding the Normal Route (PD) on Pisco (5,752m), the North Ridge (AD-) of Vallunaraju (5,686m), and the Normal Route (PD+/AD-) to the north summit (6,664m) of Huascarán, Chilean cl...
St. Elias Range, Yukon Territory. Members of the Sierra Club of California, Los Angeles Chapter, Jim Sutherland, Don Clarke, Bud Bingham, Barbara Lilley, and George Wallerstein, joined Bill Davis of the Colorado Mountain Club in Whitehorse August ...
THE Middle Triple Peak, a piece of rock and ice, was unclimbed. It stands to the west of Mount McKinley within a rugged complex of glacier and granite known as the Cathedral Spires of the Kichatna Mountains. “The Spires are probably North Americ...
Little Trango Tower, First Ascent, and Hainabrakk East Tower, Unfinished Symphony. Operating out of Shipton base camp in July, Joshua Wharton and Brian McMahon established new routes on two area towers. The PM Wall (V- 5.10+), named for Wharton’s ...
Coast Range Mountains, 1953. The Coast Range of British Columbia has long had a reputation for the magnificence of its mountains. It has equally long had a reputation for the severity of the approaches to these mountains. The classic pioneering, b...
There is no doubt that those who first climb Kanchenjunga will achieve the great feat of mountaineering, for it is a mountain which combines in its defences not only severe handicaps of wind, weather, and very high altitude, but technical climb...
On November 14 Jimmy Chin, Tim Kemple, Alex Honnold, Renan Ozturk, James Pearson (UK), and I arrived in N’Djamena, the capital of Chad. Our goal was to explore and climb in the Ennedi Desert, which lies in eastern Chad near the border with Sudan. ...