South Taku Tower, East Face. Daniel Reid and others made the first ascent of the difficult east face of South Taku Tower during the summer, placing no bolts and finding an F8, A4 standard. For the Juneau Icefield, the weather was quite good and al...

Vancouver Island, Mt. Bensen. On 28 November Frank Tolen (16) and five companions climbed through snow to a cabin at about 3,000 feet on Mt. Bensen. Frank stopped to change socks and shortly thereafter said he could not go any farther. The group w...

Huayna Potosi (6,088m), east face, Summit or Die. Coming up the road from tropical, mosquito-infested Zongo Valley, I saw the possibility for a new route on the east side of Huayna Potosi, far north of the normal route. In June I accessed the face...

STRANDED, COMBING ALONE, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainOn September 21, 1989, a lone scrambler started climbing up the southeast face of Cascade Mountain. The terrain is complex and is third and fourth class. He turned arou...

Those interested in the history of the exploration of the Eastern Alps will read with interest the article on “The Oetzthal Glaciers in History and Cartography before 1800” by Dr. J. M. Thorington in the Geographical Journal for March, 1930.

Gangotri I Ascent and Tragedy. A Polish women’s expedition consisted of Ewa Kalinowska, leader, Dr. Danuta Kasiura, Jolanta Patysnowska, me and one male member, Marek Bumblis. We climbed Gangotri I (6672 meters, 21,890 feet) by a new route, from t...

Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempt. We began with the normal hassles with airlines, Pakistani bureaucrats and Balti porters. We were Ethan Van Matre, leader, Dave Bong, climbing leader, Susan Havens, Dave Schermer, Ed Holt, Don Beavon, Butch Suits...

Cerro Piergiorgio, La Ruta del Hertnano to summit ridge. In early 2007 we fixed 400m of rope up Piergiorgio’s 950m northwest face. We decided to use fixed ropes after hearing that a group of Germans climbers had tried the face with portaledges, on...

Everest Southwest Face Attempt. After grave porter problems at Jiri, on August 24 we set up Base Camp. We cooperated with the Korean-Japanese expedition in preparing the route through the icefall and set up Camps I and II in the Western Cwm at 590...

Dhaulagiri IV Attempt. We set out from Pokhara on March 14. We knew the route from previous expeditions but the high passes were deep under snow, especially the Jangla-Bhanjang section. After 22 days we got to Mukut and Base Camp at 13,125 feet, n...

The Alpine Club of Canada. This was the Jubilee Year of the Club, which was founded in 1906. In consequence the annual summer camp was held at one of the historic sites connected with early Canadian mountaineering, at Glacier, British Columbia, in...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksOn the morning of October 17, I (Lisa Wang, 23) was leading the route Frogs Head. It was my second day of leading at the ‘Gunks.At the bulge above the fi...

Mount Shand, West Face. Rick Studley, Ian MacRae and I convinced Paul Rodgers at Talkeetna Air Taxi to land us in a basin at the base of the west face of Mount Shand on April 1. Friends in Fairbanks had first named us the Dream Team, but once they...

Swiss Expedition. Four members of the Alpine Ski-club Zürich and the S. A. C. with a subvention from the latter club made a mountaineering trip in the Caucasus this past summer. Under the leadership of Paul Bühler, Walter Rickenbach, Lorenz Saladi...

Kangri Garpo Range, exploration. During October and November 2001, New Zealanders John Wild, Wilf Dickerson, Nick Shearer, Colin Monteath and I (leader), accompanied by trekkers Jos Lang and Betty Monteath went on a recce expedition to the remote ...

Utah, Needle Point Peak—On April 3, Glen Albert Frazier (29) was killed when he fell while climbing Needle Point Peak. He apparently lost his footing and fell more than 100 feet down the face of the peak and then rolled an additional 150 feet. He ...

HARNESS FAILURE—California, Practice Cliffs. A Mountain Safety Research climbing harness broke at the anchor point when the belayer caught a simulated leader fall at the Rock Climbing Sections safety tests May 24. Dave Perkins was anchored to a tr...

Siguniang, Sichuan. Japanese led by Chiharu Yoshimura climbed Siguniang (6250 meters, 20,506 feet) by its south face. They established Base Camp at 3500 meters on June 29 and Advance Base in the cirque below the face at 4600 meters on July 1. The ...

Ice Climbs Near Valdez. During the four-month 1980-1981 season, 33 more frozen waterfalls were newly climbed, bringing the total to 62 in the close vicinity of Valdez. Almost all of these are roadside climbs. During December, cold temperatures and...

FALLING ROCK, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Bugaboo—Snowpatch ColA party of three, N.G., J.G., and G.W., was ascending to the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col using a rope at 0800 on August 4. A boulder slid down the slope above t...