Kangri Garpo Range, exploration. During October and November 2001, New Zealanders John Wild, Wilf Dickerson, Nick Shearer, Colin Monteath and I (leader), accompanied by trekkers Jos Lang and Betty Monteath went on a recce expedition to the remote ...

Utah, Needle Point Peak—On April 3, Glen Albert Frazier (29) was killed when he fell while climbing Needle Point Peak. He apparently lost his footing and fell more than 100 feet down the face of the peak and then rolled an additional 150 feet. He ...

HARNESS FAILURE—California, Practice Cliffs. A Mountain Safety Research climbing harness broke at the anchor point when the belayer caught a simulated leader fall at the Rock Climbing Sections safety tests May 24. Dave Perkins was anchored to a tr...

Siguniang, Sichuan. Japanese led by Chiharu Yoshimura climbed Siguniang (6250 meters, 20,506 feet) by its south face. They established Base Camp at 3500 meters on June 29 and Advance Base in the cirque below the face at 4600 meters on July 1. The ...

Ice Climbs Near Valdez. During the four-month 1980-1981 season, 33 more frozen waterfalls were newly climbed, bringing the total to 62 in the close vicinity of Valdez. Almost all of these are roadside climbs. During December, cold temperatures and...

FALLING ROCK, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Bugaboo—Snowpatch ColA party of three, N.G., J.G., and G.W., was ascending to the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col using a rope at 0800 on August 4. A boulder slid down the slope above t...

Trisul. Our four-man expedition ascended the Nandakini River to establish Base Camp at 4300 meters on September 17. We placed Camps I and II at 5150 and 5850 meters on September 19 and 24, despite the illness of two of our members. Between Camps I...

Cerro Torre, East Face, Attempt. A large Polish team (Artur Paszczak, Janusz Golab, Jacek Fluder, Stanislaw Piecuch and Zbignew Kroskiewicz) climbed 600 meters of a new route on Cerro Torre’s east face in January, 1996, but were unable to reach th...

The Nuns, Various Activity. Three new routes were established on The Nuns in Castle Valley. Bad Habit (5.11) climbs the east face and was put up by John Catto, Jay Smith, and Mark Hesse. Holier Than Thou (5.11c) weaves its way up a dramatic calcit...

Makalu, Solo and Without Oxygen. The Sherpas climbed with me up the ropes, fixed the day before, to Camp III on the Makalu La at 24,550 feet. They dropped their loads and descended to Camp II, leaving me alone, still 3275 feet below the summit on ...

Istoronal, Southwest Ridge, Ascent. Four Austrian climbers led by Doctor Roland Maruna recorded the third and fourth ascents of Istoronal (7380 m) on August 24 and 26 via the southwest ridge in alpine- style. Norbert Bannert (35) and mountain guid...

Mt. Grosvenor, The Warrior's Way, and Mt. Johnson, The Escalator, third ascent. In 2005 Eamonn Walsh and I climbed two new routes on Mt. Grosvenor in the lower Ruth Gorge, which also were the mountain’s second and third ascents (AAJ 2006). The bes...

SLIP ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount OliveOn August 10, 1984, a party of ten on a novice climbing course was forced to descend off Mount Olive, a moderate mixed climb, by an approaching thunders...

Annapurna II, Winter Attempt. A British team, which included Ronald Rutland and his wife, set up Base Camp and Camps I, II and III on the north face of Annapurna II at 11,975, 13,775, 17,050 and 18,375 feet on November 24, December 1, 5 and 10 res...

P 7205, Philip Smith Mountains, Brooks Range. After a failed attempt on the south face of P 7240 above Echooka, our party passed to the Marsh Fork of the Canning River. The canyon here is reminiscent of the Alberta Rockies. We followed it west and...

Dorje Lhakpa. A joint expedition of seven Japanese and three Nepalese was led by Yoshihisa Nakano. They climbed the west ridge of Dorje Lhakpa, the same route as that of Japanese teams in 1981 and 1982. On October 3 Sawayuki Aoki, Masatoshi Ohkubo...

Annapurna Dakshin Winter Attempt. A seven-man Japanese expedition led by Masami Yamagata hoped to climb the south face of Annapurna Dakshin (South). They tried the south face for only one day. Because a huge avalanche came crashing down the face, ...

Fresno Dome, Blue Connection. This one-pitch route starts 50 feet to the right of Torn and Frayed and involves an easy ramp followed by a tricky face move and ending with an unprotected water groove. Jack Forsythe and I made the first ascent in Ju...

Ruwenzori: A group of Belgians under the leadership of Count Xavier de Grunne, with mountaineering and scientific aims, has left for the exploration of this range, and will approach the mountains from the Belgian Congo on the practically unknown w...

Kangchenjunga Attempt. The highly experienced Italian climber, Sergio Martini, managed to reach 8200 meters on the southwest face of Kangchenjunga on October 11. He and two Nepalese helpers became too exhausted to continue after a month’s effort.E...