FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO BACKUP ASCENDERSCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Tangerine TripOn September 8, Jeff Cabral (33) fell to his death while following the fifth pitch of Tangerine Trip (Grade VI, 5.8 A2/C3) on the Southeast Face of ElC...
Huamashraju, west face. On August 4 Toma Erovnik (Slovenia) and our new Canadian friend Bruce Gordon climbed a new route on the west face of Huamashraju (5434m). They left Huaraz in the morning. After four hours of walking they reached the foot of...
Sierra Juárez, El Gran Trono Blanco, East Face. Through the eastern escarpment of Baja’s Sierra Juárez runs Cañon Tajo, largest of all the Juárez canyons. In Tajo’s upper reaches is a granite wall known as El Gran Trono Blanco, a 1600-foot high bl...
Forbidden Peak, The Forgotten Spurs, 1989. West of the northwest face of Forbidden Peak, on the divide leading to Mount Torment, are a pair of north-facing spurs long neglected by climbers. On August 26 and 27, 1989, my brother Carl and I climbed ...
Gaurishankar, South Summit. A Japanese expedition of 13, led by Michio Yuasa, climbed the previously unascended southeast ridge of the south summit of Gaurishankar. After Base Camp and Camp I were established at 4800 and 5600 meters on August 30 a...
Jirishanca, Suerte to East Buttress. During July 11-21 Italians Stefano DeLuca, Alessandro Piccini, and Paolo Stoppini (with Valerio Poggiani at base camp) established a line on the right side of the east-face rock wall, beginning just right of a ...
South Taku Tower, East Face. Daniel Reid and others made the first ascent of the difficult east face of South Taku Tower during the summer, placing no bolts and finding an F8, A4 standard. For the Juneau Icefield, the weather was quite good and al...
Vancouver Island, Mt. Bensen. On 28 November Frank Tolen (16) and five companions climbed through snow to a cabin at about 3,000 feet on Mt. Bensen. Frank stopped to change socks and shortly thereafter said he could not go any farther. The group w...
Huayna Potosi (6,088m), east face, Summit or Die. Coming up the road from tropical, mosquito-infested Zongo Valley, I saw the possibility for a new route on the east side of Huayna Potosi, far north of the normal route. In June I accessed the face...
STRANDED, COMBING ALONE, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainOn September 21, 1989, a lone scrambler started climbing up the southeast face of Cascade Mountain. The terrain is complex and is third and fourth class. He turned arou...
Those interested in the history of the exploration of the Eastern Alps will read with interest the article on “The Oetzthal Glaciers in History and Cartography before 1800” by Dr. J. M. Thorington in the Geographical Journal for March, 1930.
Gangotri I Ascent and Tragedy. A Polish women’s expedition consisted of Ewa Kalinowska, leader, Dr. Danuta Kasiura, Jolanta Patysnowska, me and one male member, Marek Bumblis. We climbed Gangotri I (6672 meters, 21,890 feet) by a new route, from t...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempt. We began with the normal hassles with airlines, Pakistani bureaucrats and Balti porters. We were Ethan Van Matre, leader, Dave Bong, climbing leader, Susan Havens, Dave Schermer, Ed Holt, Don Beavon, Butch Suits...
Cerro Piergiorgio, La Ruta del Hertnano to summit ridge. In early 2007 we fixed 400m of rope up Piergiorgio’s 950m northwest face. We decided to use fixed ropes after hearing that a group of Germans climbers had tried the face with portaledges, on...
Everest Southwest Face Attempt. After grave porter problems at Jiri, on August 24 we set up Base Camp. We cooperated with the Korean-Japanese expedition in preparing the route through the icefall and set up Camps I and II in the Western Cwm at 590...
Dhaulagiri IV Attempt. We set out from Pokhara on March 14. We knew the route from previous expeditions but the high passes were deep under snow, especially the Jangla-Bhanjang section. After 22 days we got to Mukut and Base Camp at 13,125 feet, n...
The Alpine Club of Canada. This was the Jubilee Year of the Club, which was founded in 1906. In consequence the annual summer camp was held at one of the historic sites connected with early Canadian mountaineering, at Glacier, British Columbia, in...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksOn the morning of October 17, I (Lisa Wang, 23) was leading the route Frogs Head. It was my second day of leading at the ‘Gunks.At the bulge above the fi...
Mount Shand, West Face. Rick Studley, Ian MacRae and I convinced Paul Rodgers at Talkeetna Air Taxi to land us in a basin at the base of the west face of Mount Shand on April 1. Friends in Fairbanks had first named us the Dream Team, but once they...
Swiss Expedition. Four members of the Alpine Ski-club Zürich and the S. A. C. with a subvention from the latter club made a mountaineering trip in the Caucasus this past summer. Under the leadership of Paul Bühler, Walter Rickenbach, Lorenz Saladi...