Bighorn Peak, Northeast Face, Bighorn Mountains. This face is nearly two miles long and varies in height from 800 to 1300 feet. It embraces two cirques. On August 20 I climbed the southern cirque, starting at the waterfall which dominates the cent...
FALL ON ICE, FAILURE TO TEST ICE TOOL PLACEMENT, ICE TOOL PULLED OUT, INATTENTIONNew Hampshire, Crawford Notch, Hitchcock GullyOn January 9, 1992, my partner, Charles Narnold (22) and I (21) went ice climbing, after spending the night in the AMC h...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Reconnaissance from the North. There were two Japanese expeditions that approached Gasherbrum I from the Chinese side. The first one conducted by Masaaki Fukushima and Jin Tamada from the Yokohama Alpine Association spen...
Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m), first alpine-style ascent from the north; Turka Himal (ca 5,800m). In early April Blue Eisele, Curtis Gray, and I visited the Dhaulagiri Range, hoping to climb a new route on the north side of Churen Himal (7,371m). To ge...
Mount Denison, Katmai National Monument. A professor and six students or graduates of Denison University in Ohio made the first ascent of Mount Denison, which had been named for the university in 1923. A first attempt in August, 1977 was unsuccess...
Colorado, 1977. The winter of 1977 was unusually dry and warm. Above 10,000 feet there was little snow accumulation, although it was frequently cold and windy. Because of a rainy summer and fall, ice was everywhere; many could enjoy the gullies ...
Peaks on the East Side of the Ruth Gorge. Dave Johnston, Dave Grimes and I did what is probably the first ascent of three minor peaks on the east side of the Ruth Gorge. In April we walked up the east side of P 7350 and the southeast ridge of P 75...
Alaska and the YukonMt. McKinley: A Proposed New Route. In a somewhat unusual article published in the 1947 A.A.J., I discussed two possible new routes up Mt. McKinley.1 Since then, I have flown around the mountain on numerous occasions; and in 19...
Quebradas Honda, Ishinca, Qelkaywanka, Llanganuco. The Alpine Club of Canada expedition consisted of H. Bussey, S. Heiberg, D. Heslop, R. Montgomery, P. Ritzema, my wife, C. McNamara, R. Nagy and me. The first area visited was the Quebrada Cancahu...
Soviet Climbs in Asia, 1963. Russian climbers continue to be active in the high mountains of Asia. Reported in Alpinismus were the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Pik Engels (21,359 feet) in the southwest Pamirs by a group of six Moscow cli...
Nampa South or Rokapi. The British Northumbria Himalaya Expedition, led by Richard Godfrey, climbed Rokapi (22,447 feet) by the southwest ridge. The summit was reached on October 10 by Thomas Herley and Kevin McLane from Camp IV. Early in the appr...
Grand Aiguille, South Face. Since the original ascent of this “unclimb- able” granite monolith in 1948, all subsequent climbs had been made by the chockstoned chimney on the west face or by an easier detour to its right. Because of its proximity t...
Peaks above the Southern Patagonian Icecap. Since I have not reported for the past several years, I am sending the information now. On January 20, 1967 I made the first ascent of Cerro Cono (c. 8200 feet), a lovely climb, which was mostly Grade IV...
Beacon Rock. In June Bill Antal and I climbed the headwall of Pipeline on Beacon Rock, a discontinuous dihedral system of vertical and overhanging rock. The six pitches were on clean rock and consisted of relentless laybacking, stemming and jammin...
Choktoi I Attempt. Malcolm Howells, Barry Whybrow, Jim Curran and I attempted Choktoi I (20,229 feet) in July. This small, attractive granite peak lies between the Choktoi and Nobande Sobande glaciers. We made reasonable progress until a nine-day ...
Artesian Route, Charlito Dome, Kings Canyon National Park. Situated next to and just south of the famous Charlotte Dome is a large south west-facing slab. A right-facing comer on its upper half and a peculiar spring of water halfway up mark the ro...
Mt. Bentley, Northeast Ridge, Ascent. The most notable ascent in the Sentinel Range this season was on Mt. Bentley (4145m), well north of Vinson Massif. Americans Wally Berg and Bob Elias were installing weather beacons and surveying on the Embree...
P 22,160 or Choricho Attempt, 1978. Our objective was Choricho, so called by the locals as it lies just south of the Choricho Glacier, northwest of Payu Peak. We were Will Thomson, John Hardie, Alan Thomson and I. In mid-June, after marching up th...
Mt. Murchison. First ascent of S. tower (C.A.J., xxv, illust. 4 facing p. 26). September 4th, 1938. E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard, E. Feuz, Jr. From a camp just below the two lakes in the valley directly S. of the tower, 3.5 hours to base of peak...
Pumori Winter Ascent via East Face. A Japanese expedition climbed a new route on the east face of Pumori. Hiroshi Aota and Yoshiki Sasahara made a quick alpine-style ascent that took them to the summit on the third day, December 3. The leader Kazu...