North Tower, Spirito Libero. On February 2, 1998, the team of Fabio Leoni and Elio Orlandi from Trento, Italy, put up a new route on the north spur of the North Tower of Paine. The route, Spirito Libero (V 5.11a, 500m), was put up in alpine style....
P 6410, Chugach Range. Karen Courtright and I finally got through irresistible blueberries up the south fork of Eagle River to make on August 26 the first ascent of P 6410 via the southeast ridge. We skirted gendarmes by following a talus shelf an...
Latok II. We had applied for the Ogre and as second choice, one of the Latok peaks. As permission for the Ogre had already been granted the British, the Pakistani government authorized Latok I (23,440 feet*), which lies between the Choktoi and Bia...
Deep South Section. Our Section is plugging along with three AAC Ambassadors in place: Jay Love (Athens, Georgia), Frank Nederhand (Atlanta), and Gray Ruhl (Tampa).We have been attracting new members and establishing a presence in the Deep South b...
Mount Louis. A new route on the south face of Mount Louis was made on August 30 and 31. The climb ascends from the lower end of the amphitheater for 250 feet up a thin crack, which is not difficult after the first rope length. The route then trave...
Ranrapalca, Scandinavian Direct, Solo. On July 24, Pavle Kozjek (Slovenia) made a solo ascent of Scandinavian Direct route (ED inf) on the north face of Ranrapalca (6162m). It took him three hours to climb this ca. 1000-meter mixed route (the topo...
Mount McKinley, Second Ascent of Western Rim of South Face. Seiwa Asanome and Kazuo Yanamoto made this climb in only three days. From the foot of the great couloir, the two climbers began their climb by rush tactics on June 26. The couloir rises f...
Siniolchu, Sikkim. Eighteen members of a team from the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute of Gangtok climbed this peak (22,610 feet) in four groups from May 18 to 23.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
New York Section. New York Section members, like everyone else, love rituals, and one of our most enduring, second in longevity to our black tie dinner in the fall, is our Adirondack Winter Outing, now in its 16th year. Historically the weather in...
Scottish Hindu Kush Expedition. After refusing us permission to climb in several regions, the Afghan government allowed us to climb in the central Hindu Kush on the watershed ridge between Nuristan and Badakh- shan. Several German expeditions have...
Mount Steele, East-Southeast Ridge. The long, but not difficult, east- southeast ridge of Mount Steele had been climbed before. We had hoped to repeat the 1937 Washbum-Bates route. Because of a less-than-average snowfall, our pilot, Andy Williams,...
FROSTBITE-WEATHER CONDITIONS, FAILURE TO TURN BACK, FALLS ON SNOW AND INTO CREVASSESWashington, Mount Rainier, Kautz GlacierOn June 9 at 1700, David German and his partner Judy Rittenhouse left their high camp at 10,200 feet on the Wapowety Cleave...
Mt. Girouard. 1938 first ascent by E. E. Bishop, D. R. Crosby. From summit of Mt. Inglismaldie descent was made to the Inglis- maldie-Girouard col and the narrow ridge followed to the summit of Mt. Girouard, traversing where necessary on the steep...
Nanda Devi. Messrs. E. E. Shipton and H. W. Tilman explored the Rishi Gorge in an attempt to find a feasible route on this seemingly inaccessible mountain.
Kingnait Fiord, Baffin Island. In August I led a small expedition to Baffin Island, and was accompanied by Caroline Cochran, Cecil Grace, Gerald McCue and Richard Kullberg. Our objective was to seek more unexplored mountains. After an attempt to r...
Gongga Shan (Minya Konka) from the South. The objective of our expedition was to find and climb a new route on the south face of Gongga Shan (24,891 feet, 7587 meters). The climbing in China consisted of Dr. Lance Owens, Henry Barber, Gary Bocarde...
8000ers, Increase of Royalty Fees. The Pakistan Ministry of Tourism announced that for the year 2000, the fee for 8000-meter peaks would be raised, from US $7,500 for five members and $700 dollars for every additional member, to US $9,000 for seve...
Cordillera Apolobamba and Illampu and Pico del Norte, Cordillera Real. To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Sektion Berlin of the Deutscher Alpenverein, an expedition was sent to Bolivia. The members were Klaus Dörschel, Werner Fiala, Jürgen ...
Eiger North Face, Switzerland. Although I remember the Editor referring to the Eiger North Face as an “attractive shooting gallery,” when I soloed it on September 7, it was frozen together nicely and therefore offered minimal rockfall. Heavy vergl...
SNAKE BITENew York, ShawangunksOn July 6,1985, a man (27) was leading Black Fly (5.5) when he was bitten by a copperhead snake. He did not fall. (Source: Tom Scheuer, Senior Ranger, Mohonk Preserve)(Editor’s Note: This is one of the few instances ...