FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS—JUMPING CREVASSE Oregon, Mount HoodOn June 11, 1989, while descending from a climb of Mount Hood, a rope team of four Mazamas reached the bergschrund, about 3250 meters. At this time and location, the ’schrund was opened abo...
Mount Edith, Canadian Rockies. Horst von Hennig made the second ascent of a route on the southeast face of Mount Edith in the summer of 1956 with the guide, Hans Gmoser. The latter describes the route as follows: “Our route was just on the east fa...
Rufous Peak, Northwest Face. During a five-day trip into the Tchaikazan River valley in September, Steve Sheffield and I climbed a new snow-and-ice route on one of the more prominent peaks of the area, between Taseko and Chilko Lakes. After five h...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTMinnesota, Minnesota State ParkOn July 8, 1991, Nancy Czech (38) fell about 45 feet from a moderate rock climb in Minnesota State Park.“What she was climbing was not a difficult climb for her at all,” said Czech’...
AAC, South Central Section. The South Central Section held an annual meeting in Dallas, Texas, on October 16. The newly elected officers for 2000 are Andy Jones, chair; Mike Doyle, co-chair; and Gail Billings, treasurer. Mike Lewis will assist the...
On June 26, Bill Wright (45) and Tom Karpeichik (48) attempted to simulclimb 100 pitches in Eldorado Canyon (Eldo) in a day. At about 7:30 a.m. the climbers were on their 11th route/34th pitch on Redguard Route (5.8) when the higher climber fell a...
The Alps in 1864, by A. W. Moore. 2 vols., 8vo., pp. 524, with illustrations. Oxford: Blackwell, 1938. Price 10 s.Some of this material the writer has read at times, in the original volume of which these are a reprint. Assembled together, however,...
Cable Mountain, Hammer and Sickle. In September, Ron Ramonde and I did the first ascent of Cable Mountain in Zion. The route climbs the thin, diagonaling seam on the left side of the wall, summitting about 100 feet left of the cable ruins. It’s se...
Ganchenpo, north face, attempt. Bruno Burr, Oskar Wachter, and I left Kathmandu on May 6 and after a five-day trek through the Langtang Valley established base camp at 4400m in the Nyangtsa Chui Valley. We hoped to climb the north face of Ganchemp...
Nameless Tower, Trango Towers. Our five-person international climbing team was composed of Frenchwoman Catherine Destivelle, Swiss Lucien Abbé, and Americans Jeff Lowe, Jim Bridwell and me, with additional filming support from Paul Sharp, Veroniqu...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount IndefatigableOn September 5, Kananaskis Country rangers were informed that someone had fallen down the East Face of Mt. Indefatigable (2670 meters) from the ridge joining its two peaks. A helico...
Dhaulagiri II, south face to east ridge, attempt. The seven-man Czech expedition led by Pavel Trefil chose the very rarely visited Dhaulagiri II (7,751m) as its objective for pre-monsoon 2003, hoping to repeat the 1978 Japanese Route (summit reach...
Broad Peak. Our team consisted of David and Diana Dailey, Scott McKee, Nels Niemi, Paul Stevenson and me as leader. We arrived at Base Camp on July 1. We had three camps at 18,600, 21,600 and 23,900 feet. The weather was good enough to climb to th...
Appalachian Mountain Club. In 1948 the Appalachian Mountain Club continued its usual round of lectures, walks, ski trips, rock climbs, white water canoeing, etc. The longest trip scheduled during the year was an excursion to Glacier National Park....
Kampf um den Berg, by Robert Montis. 8 vo.; 239 pages, with 8 full-page illustrations, and numerous smaller drawings. Graz: Verlag Styria, 1937.The Gesellschaft Alpiner Bücherfreunde has chosen as its most recent offering a volume (Band 6, Die Deu...
British Mount Everest Medical Expedition. Some 75 people in all were members of our expedition, but only eight were allowed to climb in the Western Cwm. Dr. Charlie Hornsby and Dr. Roddy Kirkwood reached the summit of Everest on October 11, accomp...
Greenland Icecap, East to West Solo Crossing. Miroslav Jakes crossed the Greenland icecap solo from Johan Petersen Fjord on the east coast to the airport in Kangerlussuaq (Sondre Stromfjord) in the west. The route (ca. 600 kilometers) took him 30 ...
Kula, First Ascent. It was reported that Kula (a.k.a. Chalung, 6546m) was climbed for the first time by a 11-member Japanese expedition led by Tsunso Suziki. The team ascended the northwest ridge; eight climbers reached the summit on July 11, 1997...
Puscanturpa Group. Climbers from Varese led by Luigi Ossola made a new route on the northwest face of Puscanturpa Noroeste. They also climbed Puscanturpa Sur by its south ice face and Puscanturpa Central by its west face and south ridge. Because o...
Donnell Reservoir, Moonshadow, Stanislaus National Forest. A 1500-foot wall lies on the north side of Donnell Reservoir just off Highway 108. The unique approach to the wall requires a canoe and is about as close to sea-cliff climbing as one can g...