First Ascents in the Central Andes, 1993-1996. In the last three southern summers I did the following: Cerro de los Remolinos (3848 meters, first ascent, December 27, 1993, southwest side, easy) and two days later, Cerro Alto de Dolores (4110 mete...
Serra 5. On June 15 Dick Culbert and Glenn Woodsworth were landed by plane on the Scimitar Glacier near the mouth of Chaos Glacier. They packed down the Scimitar and skirted an icefall on the Radiant Glacier to camp at 6600 feet. From there they c...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE RELAY Utah, Rig Cottonwood Canyon, GeronimoOn January 22, 1994, a climber (19) was on Geronimo (5.8) when he lost his hold and fell 25 feet. He had not placed adequate protection, and his bela...
Peak 10,552, Death Canyon. The past four summers have seen considerable activity on the very steep walls in the vicinity of the Snaz, the original 1964 route by Chouinard and Hempel. To the right (east) of the Snaz is the Fallen Angel (IV, F10), a...
Mir Samir. Hubert Schmid, leader, Philipp Albrecht, and Hans and Heinrich Pritschet of the Allgäu Hindu Kush Expedition were handicapped by illnesses. Even so Albrecht and Hans Pritschet made on June 19 the third ascent of Mir Samir (19,060 feet) ...
Pinnacles National Monument. Hard free climbing continues this year at Pinnacles. Reports in Climbing Magazine, January-February 1979, indicate Jim Beyer and Bob Sullivan (unaffiliated) have done several new routes, including Butter (F10), Digger ...
Mount Breitenbach, North Face, Lost River Range. From July 13 to 16, Bob Boyles, Mike Weber and I made the first ascent of the north face of Mount Breitenbach. Bill March has told me that some years ago his party was turned back by very severe roc...
Steele and Walsh. A third Japanese party in the Yukon consisted of Masakatsu Masuda, Tetsu Nakanishi, Tohuru Sakamoto, Takuya Nakazono,Shunichi Sakanishi, Masao Nakamura and Tatsuo Inoue, of the Alpine Club of Kobe University. They ascended Steele...
New Hampshire, White Mountains, Crawford Notch, Willey Slide. A scheduled A.M.C. Beginners’ Ice Climb was held on the Willey Slide, Crawford Notch, on Saturday, March 17th. The party included Bert Hirtle and Walter Herrmann, trip leaders, John Per...
Panch Chuli. Heinrich Harrer was one of two well-known German mountaineers who escaped from an Allied prison camp during the war and took refuge in Tibet. During the summer of 1951 Harrer, with New Zealander Frank Thomas, two Sherpas and minimum e...
South Howser Tower, Complete East Ridge, Bugaboos. Bill Sumner and I climbed South Howser on August 20 via the complete east ridge. This may be the only reasonable short route on the peak when snow and ice climbing conditions are poor. We had inte...
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn August 29, 1981, R. set off following the guidebook description for the east-southeast ridge of Mount Temple. He travelled too far east along the ...
FALL INTO CREVASSEAlaska, Mount McKinley, Northwest Fork, Kahiltna GlacierOn May 13, The Velvet Underground Expedition, Courtland Shafer (33) and Glenn and Morrison (40) began their climb of Denali’s West Rib. On May 24, Shafer and Morrison were c...
Kangchungtse. After an 11-day approach from Tumlingtar up the Arun and Barun valleys, we got to Base Camp at 16,000 feet on October 1. Following the route pioneered in 1955 by Couzy and Terray, we installed Camp I at 17,400 feet under the west rid...
North Tower, Spirito Libero. On February 2, 1998, the team of Fabio Leoni and Elio Orlandi from Trento, Italy, put up a new route on the north spur of the North Tower of Paine. The route, Spirito Libero (V 5.11a, 500m), was put up in alpine style....
P 6410, Chugach Range. Karen Courtright and I finally got through irresistible blueberries up the south fork of Eagle River to make on August 26 the first ascent of P 6410 via the southeast ridge. We skirted gendarmes by following a talus shelf an...
Latok II. We had applied for the Ogre and as second choice, one of the Latok peaks. As permission for the Ogre had already been granted the British, the Pakistani government authorized Latok I (23,440 feet*), which lies between the Choktoi and Bia...
Deep South Section. Our Section is plugging along with three AAC Ambassadors in place: Jay Love (Athens, Georgia), Frank Nederhand (Atlanta), and Gray Ruhl (Tampa).We have been attracting new members and establishing a presence in the Deep South b...
Mount Louis. A new route on the south face of Mount Louis was made on August 30 and 31. The climb ascends from the lower end of the amphitheater for 250 feet up a thin crack, which is not difficult after the first rope length. The route then trave...
Ranrapalca, Scandinavian Direct, Solo. On July 24, Pavle Kozjek (Slovenia) made a solo ascent of Scandinavian Direct route (ED inf) on the north face of Ranrapalca (6162m). It took him three hours to climb this ca. 1000-meter mixed route (the topo...