FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Canmore Area, Stoneworks CragAt about 1730 on July 10, 1994, Ian B. was climbing with two friends at the Stoneworks when he took a two-meter leader fall near ...
Bojohaghur Duanasir Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Austrian Günther Steinmair, American Dr. Michael Henry and Germans Hans Feith and me. Bojohaghur Duanasir (7329 meters, 24,045 feet) had first been climbed by Japanese by its west face an...
Rakaposhi Attempt. After arriving at Jaglot on July 24, José Angel Cobo, Perfecto Rodríguez, Francisco José Ruiz, Iñaki Ruiz, Pedro Sánchez and I as leader set out with 18 porters through Barit and Dobar to arrive at Base Camp at 3750 meters on Ju...
Spalding Peak, South Face. John Hudson and Dick Williams climbed this new route, graded III, F7, A2, on July 14. From the base of the face they ascended the prominent, easy couloir near the center of the face, generally on the left (west) side, fo...
Colorado Mountain Club. 1974 was an extremely active year for the Colorado Mountain Club, despite the fact that our rapid growth rate of the last few years finally slowed down. In fact, the membership total for our 12 groups was only 4892 as of De...
P 6100 and P 5720, Losar Valley. Climbers from Calcutta led by Gopal Roy established Base Camp at 4725 meters on August 23. On the 29th, Asim Kumar Chakraborty, Nilotpal Roy, porters Angrup Doje and Chhering Paldan Bodh Losar (Pandit) unsuccessful...
First Ascents in the Central Andes, 1993-1996. In the last three southern summers I did the following: Cerro de los Remolinos (3848 meters, first ascent, December 27, 1993, southwest side, easy) and two days later, Cerro Alto de Dolores (4110 mete...
Serra 5. On June 15 Dick Culbert and Glenn Woodsworth were landed by plane on the Scimitar Glacier near the mouth of Chaos Glacier. They packed down the Scimitar and skirted an icefall on the Radiant Glacier to camp at 6600 feet. From there they c...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE RELAY Utah, Rig Cottonwood Canyon, GeronimoOn January 22, 1994, a climber (19) was on Geronimo (5.8) when he lost his hold and fell 25 feet. He had not placed adequate protection, and his bela...
Peak 10,552, Death Canyon. The past four summers have seen considerable activity on the very steep walls in the vicinity of the Snaz, the original 1964 route by Chouinard and Hempel. To the right (east) of the Snaz is the Fallen Angel (IV, F10), a...
Mir Samir. Hubert Schmid, leader, Philipp Albrecht, and Hans and Heinrich Pritschet of the Allgäu Hindu Kush Expedition were handicapped by illnesses. Even so Albrecht and Hans Pritschet made on June 19 the third ascent of Mir Samir (19,060 feet) ...
Pinnacles National Monument. Hard free climbing continues this year at Pinnacles. Reports in Climbing Magazine, January-February 1979, indicate Jim Beyer and Bob Sullivan (unaffiliated) have done several new routes, including Butter (F10), Digger ...
Mount Breitenbach, North Face, Lost River Range. From July 13 to 16, Bob Boyles, Mike Weber and I made the first ascent of the north face of Mount Breitenbach. Bill March has told me that some years ago his party was turned back by very severe roc...
Steele and Walsh. A third Japanese party in the Yukon consisted of Masakatsu Masuda, Tetsu Nakanishi, Tohuru Sakamoto, Takuya Nakazono,Shunichi Sakanishi, Masao Nakamura and Tatsuo Inoue, of the Alpine Club of Kobe University. They ascended Steele...
New Hampshire, White Mountains, Crawford Notch, Willey Slide. A scheduled A.M.C. Beginners’ Ice Climb was held on the Willey Slide, Crawford Notch, on Saturday, March 17th. The party included Bert Hirtle and Walter Herrmann, trip leaders, John Per...
Panch Chuli. Heinrich Harrer was one of two well-known German mountaineers who escaped from an Allied prison camp during the war and took refuge in Tibet. During the summer of 1951 Harrer, with New Zealander Frank Thomas, two Sherpas and minimum e...
South Howser Tower, Complete East Ridge, Bugaboos. Bill Sumner and I climbed South Howser on August 20 via the complete east ridge. This may be the only reasonable short route on the peak when snow and ice climbing conditions are poor. We had inte...
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn August 29, 1981, R. set off following the guidebook description for the east-southeast ridge of Mount Temple. He travelled too far east along the ...
FALL INTO CREVASSEAlaska, Mount McKinley, Northwest Fork, Kahiltna GlacierOn May 13, The Velvet Underground Expedition, Courtland Shafer (33) and Glenn and Morrison (40) began their climb of Denali’s West Rib. On May 24, Shafer and Morrison were c...
Kangchungtse. After an 11-day approach from Tumlingtar up the Arun and Barun valleys, we got to Base Camp at 16,000 feet on October 1. Following the route pioneered in 1955 by Couzy and Terray, we installed Camp I at 17,400 feet under the west rid...