Trisul. Trisul (7120 meters, 23,360 feet) is now being climbed frequently. Two commercial groups were successful, one Italian led by Alberto Re and a German one led by Günter Kampf. An Indian expedition under the leadership of Samir Kumar Guha als...
North Brother, East Ridge. After failing to climb North Brother in various attempts, from a logging road up Murhut Creek, in June, 1970 Robert Yekel, Roger Beckett, Max Triboulet and I climbed to a notch on the east ridge, where we came face-to-fa...
Tupungato and Tupungatito, First Winter Ascents. The Spanish mountain guide and ski instructor at Farellones, Chile, Fernando Garrido, had attempted Tupungato in the winter of 1981. He succeeded in the same endeavor on October 16, 1984. He approac...
Alpamayo, North Summit. Kanji Shimamura, Yoshio Takano and Kazuhiro Nishimura left Huaraz on June 1 and placed Base Camp at 13,775 feet at the tongue of the Bailey Glacier on June 3 and Camp I on the plateau at 15,900 feet. They abandoned the sout...
Ascent, edited by Allen Steck & Steve Roper. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco 1980. 272 pages, 8½ x 11, paperbound, illustrated. Price $14.95.Readers accustomed to Ascent each year in the Sixties and every other year in the early Seventies, an...
Owir III. Dr. G. Gruber was with Manfred Geilhofer on the South Barum Glacier, where they met up with the Germans Walter Pschorr and Barbara Anders. Geilhofer and Fräulein Anders climbed Owir III, which had been previously climbed by the Norwegian...
Shivling Ascent and Tragedy. Six Japanese climbers led by Koichi Minami all reached the summit of Shivling by the north ridge. They established Base Camp on September 12 at Tapovan. On October 9 Katsuhiko Takeuchi, Atsushi Yokoyama and Hiroshi Han...
Adamant, Gothic and Sir Sandford Groups, Northern Selkirks. Twelve members and friends of the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club spent three weeks climbing out of Fairy Meadow and Great Cairn Cabins and a camp on the upper Austerity Glacier. Although f...
Bhrigupanth. Bhrigupanth (6772 meters, 22,220 feet) was climbed by an Indian team from Pune via the south face, the route of the first ascent in 1980 by the American women’s team led by Arlene Blum, though it was different above Camp III, where we...
British Columbia Mountaineering Club. Summer never really did visit the Vancouver area in 1973, and the BCMC schedule of 110 trips, including three camps, suffered accordingly. Nevertheless, the outings were popular, and good use was made of what ...
Sita Chuchura. Our expedition, composed of Guy Hiron, Guy Mattioni, Jean-Louis Guillet, Claude Hameau, Philippe Lataud, Ang Tarke Sherpa and me as leader, made the second ascent of Sita Chuchura (6611 meters, 21,690 feet). After a ten-day approach...
RAPPEL FAILURE AND FALL/SLIP ON ROCK—Wyoming, The Tetons, Mt. Moran. Gerald Huntley (32) and Susan Huntley (29) were descending by rappel the East Ridge of the West Horn of Mt. Moran on the afternoon ofAugust 25. At a point several hundred feet ab...
Sierra Nevada: (1) Yosemite Valley. On 31 May 1947 Donald Boyd, a 14-year-old boy, was killed by a fall from Sunnyside Bench beneath upper Yosemite Falls. Another boy of the same age was with him. It was evening and getting dark. They had taken a ...
To Be Brave, My Life, Volume 1. Royal Robbins. Pink Moment Press, 2009. 221 pages. Paperback. $19.95.Royal Robbins was the outstanding climber of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing. More important, he was the most influential. He was probably the...
ALTITUDE SICKNESS, PNEUMONIAYukon Territory, Mt. Logan, King Trench RouteAt 8 a.m. on May 16, 1980, Kluane Park headquarters received word that Elizabeth Strasser was suffering from a combination of altitude sickness and severe cold at the 17,500-...
Of General InterestArticles in The Geographical Journal. Several interesting articles have appeared recently in The Geographical Journal (London).“Search for Power in the British Columbia Coast Range,” by R. C. Farrow, Chief Hydraulic Engineer of ...
Mountaineering in Greenland 1977–1986Dolfi Rotovnik and Peter Søndergaard, Dansk BjergklubTHE WORLD’S LARGEST ISLAND, Greenland, fascinates mountaineers throughout the continents. It is a vast country covered by ice and snow and with mountains as ...
AAC, Oregon Section. Our winter Section expedition was made to Smith Rock to construct an emergency rescue litter shelter. Jeff Alzner, Richard Bence, Bob McGown, Bob Spike, and others participated. The Section has plans for other litter shelters ...
Austin and Laoiju Stringham have opened a sandstone trad climbing area in northwest Yunnan Province. Accessed through the town of Liming (2,100m), two and a half hours drive west of the major city Lijiang, the sandstone walls lie within Loaj...
Mt. Bradley, South Face. In July, Blair Williams and Michael Schaefer climbed a new route (5.10 A3) on the south face of Mt. Bradley. The route takes a line to the right of The Gift (Carpenter-House-Twight, 1998) and left of The Pearl (Orgler et a...