Makalu, Winter Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Mario Curnis, my wife Goretta and me as leader, Italians, and Romolo Nottaris, Claudio Zimmermann and Giorgio Senaldi, Swiss. We left Dharan on November 25, 1980 with 147 porters and arrived at M...
Kuti Dorkush, South Ridge. Annabelle Barker, Mary Twomey, Janet Vince and I established a fantastic base camp on the north side at the Sat Marao Glacier at ca. 3600 meters on a vegetated, flower-strewn ablation valley. Huge boulders formed caves f...
Arizona, Catalina Mountains, Pima Canyon. On 23 February Robert Schultz (22) and his brother William Schultz (17) were hiking near the trail in Pima Canyon when Robert fell and cut his foot. Both were deaf mutes. William installed “shoelace tourni...
Western Staunings Alps, Various Activity. Team members Colwyn Jones (Joint Expedition Coordinator), Stephen Reid (Joint Expedition Coordinator), John Bickerdike, Brian Shackleton, Jonathan Preston, Colin Read, John Peden, and Chris Ravey left Glas...
Peak 7,400', South Ridge. Micha Miller and I spent two weeks in May in the Ruth Gorge, where we climbed a few things and failed on a few more. We left our camp under Mt. Dickey one morning hoping to get on something that wasn’t too committing, as ...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, FAILURE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Aberdeen GlacierOn the sunny, warm morning of July 19, 1984, two climbers were descending the lower Aberdeen Glacier. They were equipped with gear for climbi...
Mango Gusor, 1980. An expedition of three Japanese made the first ascent of Mango Gusor (6288 meters, 20,633 feet). They established Base Camp in the Stokpa valley at 13,800 feet on June 15, 1980. Camp I was on the glacier at 15,100 feet and they ...
La Esfînge, Cruz del Sur, New Route. Silvo Karo (Slovenia), Mauro “Bubu” Bole (Italy), and I traveled to Peru on my birthday, June 23. Upon our arrival at Base Camp (4650m) below La Esfinge (a.k.a. the Sphinx) on June 27, we had some problems with...
Annapurna II Attempt. A six-member team from South Korea was led by Jung Sang-Mo. They set up Base Camp and Camps I, II, IV and V at 11,500, 14,750, 16,725, 22,300 and 23,950 feet on September 3, 4, 7, October 1 and 8 respectively. They hoped to c...
Neacola. A complete article on the ascent of this remote peak appears earlier in this Journal.
Karyolung Winter Attempt, 1986. A joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition led by Kim Young-Ho attempted Karyolung by its northeast face. They had two camps above Base Camp. On January 25, 1986 Ko Heung-Lyul and Ang Chir- ing Sherpa reached 6400 meters ...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1993. The 1993 climbing season was essentially normal compared with the tragic season last year. The weather was better than normal and climbers generally exhibited more caution, contributi...
Swachand, West Face, Attempt. Malcolm Bass, Julian Clamp and Simon Yearsley (U.K.) attempted the west face of Swachand (6721m) during September and October. Swachand was first climbed by the Austrians Messner and Spann raft during the incredibly p...
Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. A French expedition led by Philippe Berger failed to climb the southwest ridge of Annapurna Dakshin (South). The other three members, Vincent Couttet, Eric Fauret and Denis Leroy, reached their highest point of 6300 mete...
Kuilu Range, Exploration and Various Ascents. The Terskey Alatau Range extends along the southern shore of Lake Issyk Kul. During Soviet times it was one of the most popular climbing venues in the Tien Shan, having three mountaineering camps based...
Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot and Aguja Guillaumet in the 1988- 1989 Season. There were three ascents of Cerro Torre, all by the Maestri bolt route: on November 10, 1988 by Americans Brad Schilling and Mike Clifford and by Spanish Catalan...
Fresno Dome, Torn and Frayed. This short, four-pitch climb was done by Jack Forsythe and me in June. It lies on the right side of a prominent pillar a few hundred feet right of the Beckey-Stuart route. Three obvious pitches lead to a huge ledge fr...
Torre Central, South African Route, first free ascent. On February 2, 2009, Ben Ditto, Sean Villanueva, and I summited the Central Tower of Paine via the South African Route, making the firstfree ascent of the 1,200m east face. The route was first...
Kamchatka: It is reported that the highest summit on the island, Kluchevskaya (16,124 feet), has been recently ascended by two Europeans after a long expedition.
Kangchenjunga Attempt. A Spanish expedition led by Mari Abrego attempted to climb the north face of Kangchenjunga. They reached a highpoint of 8400 meters on September 23.Elizabeth Hawley