Paiju Peak. In the late fall of 1960 Rick Litterick, my wife Courtney and I gathered in Abbottabad, West Pakistan, to organize our visit to Paiju Peak in the central Karakoram. Some months later the government of Pakistan approved our plans, but f...
K2, West Ridge and Abruzzi Spur Attempts. Our team consisted of Doug Scott, Joe Tasker, Dick Renshaw and me. We left Skardu on May 10. Deep snow on the Baltoro Glacier hindered our progress. At the foot of K2 on May 24, the porters refused to carr...
Notes Damien Gildea, “Many of the peaks in these areas would have had previous ascents by BAS personnel based at Port Lockroy over the years, but it was almost certainly the first time snowboarding had been conducted here and almost all of the pea...
Sierra Nevada, California: (2) Yosemite Valley. On 31 May 1947 Donald Boyd, a 14-year-old boy, was killed by a fall from Sunnyside Bench beneath upper Yosemite Falls. Another boy of the same age was with him. It was evening and getting dark. They ...
Rocky Mountain National Park, New Routes. Notchtop, Southeast Face. A variation of White Room, which was first climbed by Briggs and Hamilton in 1974, Black Curtains goes directly over the roof avoiding the poorly protected traverse to the left. O...
California, Yosemite National Park, Phantom Pinnacle. On 5 July, Robert Foster (22) and Jeffrey Schaffer (23), both of Berkeley, began a climb on Phantom Pinnacle at about 10:15 a.m. The first two pitches went easily. The third pitch, a long, stre...
Mt. Godwin, probable first ascent, West Ridge. In early April, my dad Harold Faust, George Peck, and I climbed the West Ridge (Alaska Grade 2) of Mt. Godwin in the Kenai Mountains, near Seward. At about 5,860', Mt. Godwin is not a tall peak, thoug...
Teram Kangri III. Our expedition was composed of Masatoshi Sato, Zenzo Shikanai, Mitsutaka Kudo, Masanori Oka, Takayoshi Sato, Osamu Nonomura, Tetsuo Hasegawa, Junji Kurotaki, Kenji Nikko, Akira Marui, Gaku Ishi and me as leader. We left Khapalu o...
Gasherbrum II, Husband-and-Wife Ascent. My wife Liliane, her brother Alain Bontemps and I reached the summit of Gasherbrum II on June 12. We were accompanied to Base Camp by Louis Thiberge, thus complying with the Pakistani regulation of having fo...
Lost Eagle Pinnacle, Wind River Range. From a campsite on Slide Lake, Rick Horn, Joe Larson, Dave Eland, Pat Paddon, and I made the first ascent of this 2000-foot pinnacle on July 30. We ascended by the easiest route we could find and this reached...
Mt. Victoria. First guideless traverse N. to S. peak. August 1, 1938. E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard. “Plains” to Lake Louise (12 hours).
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. In 1995 our section worked hard to improve communications both within the club and with non-members in the local climbing communities. Hosting the A.A.C. Annual Meeting last December in Oakland provided a perfect foc...
Mountaineering in the National Parks. Interest of the National Park Service in mountain climbing in Park areas has steadily increased. The responsibility of Park personnel in encouraging safe climbing and in carrying out rescues is now more clearl...
Pik Lenin, Pamir Mountains. After fifteen years of attempting to get permission, an Austrian expedition was finally allowed to leave for the Pamirs on July 21 under the joint leadership of Erich Vanis and Franz Huber. The other members were Karl K...
The members of the expedition were Edin Alikalfic, Mario Bago, Janez Benkovic, Željko Gobec, Branko Pusak and I as leader. We established Base Camp and Advance Base at 4620 and 5240 meters on October 6 and 10. In spite of bad weather in the next f...
Cerro Solo. After the Anglo-Swiss expedition to Cerro Torre, Eric Jones made in February a solo ascent of Cerro Solo in five hours.
Post-Monsoon in the Nepal Himalaya. In the post-monsoon in the Nepal Himalaya, the summer monsoon rains and snowfall continued throughout September and into early October, several weeks beyond the normal end of the rainy season, only to be followe...
EquipmentRawl-Drive Climbing Anchor. In recent years, some of the climbers in the Northwest have begun carrying and using rock anchors as standard equipment in rock climbing. Usually the anchors have been used either for safety or for direct aid i...
CLINTON M. KELLEY1913-1982Clint Kelley, 69, fell to his death June 20, 1982 while climbing with friends on Mount Shuskan. Clint had first climbed Shuskan in 1938 while working on his Ph.D. at the University of Washington. He had started climbing i...
Tirich Mir. Shunzo Masue led the 14-man Ishikawa Prefecture Section of the Japanese Alpine Club expedition. The notorious southwest ridge of Tirich Mir (25,290 feet) was their first objective, but because of avalanche danger they changed to the we...