Fairweather, Carpé Ridge. Don Langlois, Bill Staub and I landed on the beach just above Sea Creek on April 29. After following the normal route, on May 10 we hauled our last load to Base Camp. The approach had been long and hard, but the weather m...
FALL INTO MOAT, FALLING ROCK, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Bugaboo SpireIn August, S.A. and B.C. approached the east face of Bugaboo Spire, intending to climb the Left-Hand Herr route. They ascended a snow apron below ...
Nanda Devi East. Our Catalan expedition was composed of Xavier Laporta, Manel Lobe, Salvador Angles, Josep Antón Alarcón, Ricard Miquel, Marc Martinez, Marc Cercós, Antón Rañé, Anna Rodríguez and me as leader. The route we followed was the only on...
Argentine Patagonia, Various Ascents. Argentine Rolando Garibotti and American Doug Byerly enjoyed a productive 1996-’97 Patagonian season, climbing the 1974 British Route (550 meters, 5.11 A0) on Aguja Inominata on December 2, the third ascent of...
Iowa Mountaineers. The Iowa Mountaineers celebrated their 50th anniversary with a very active schedule in 1990. Membership remained steady at about 1,200 members. Over 2,660 people participated in the club’s various courses, summer mountaineering ...
Moab Area, Various Ascents. Sunshine Wall is an exciting Wingate buttress bordering the northern reaches of Salt Valley, just north of the border of Arches National Park. It is reached by a good dirt road that branches east from U.S. 191 approxima...
Makalu, Winter Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Mario Curnis, my wife Goretta and me as leader, Italians, and Romolo Nottaris, Claudio Zimmermann and Giorgio Senaldi, Swiss. We left Dharan on November 25, 1980 with 147 porters and arrived at M...
Kuti Dorkush, South Ridge. Annabelle Barker, Mary Twomey, Janet Vince and I established a fantastic base camp on the north side at the Sat Marao Glacier at ca. 3600 meters on a vegetated, flower-strewn ablation valley. Huge boulders formed caves f...
Arizona, Catalina Mountains, Pima Canyon. On 23 February Robert Schultz (22) and his brother William Schultz (17) were hiking near the trail in Pima Canyon when Robert fell and cut his foot. Both were deaf mutes. William installed “shoelace tourni...
Western Staunings Alps, Various Activity. Team members Colwyn Jones (Joint Expedition Coordinator), Stephen Reid (Joint Expedition Coordinator), John Bickerdike, Brian Shackleton, Jonathan Preston, Colin Read, John Peden, and Chris Ravey left Glas...
Peak 7,400', South Ridge. Micha Miller and I spent two weeks in May in the Ruth Gorge, where we climbed a few things and failed on a few more. We left our camp under Mt. Dickey one morning hoping to get on something that wasn’t too committing, as ...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, FAILURE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Aberdeen GlacierOn the sunny, warm morning of July 19, 1984, two climbers were descending the lower Aberdeen Glacier. They were equipped with gear for climbi...
Mango Gusor, 1980. An expedition of three Japanese made the first ascent of Mango Gusor (6288 meters, 20,633 feet). They established Base Camp in the Stokpa valley at 13,800 feet on June 15, 1980. Camp I was on the glacier at 15,100 feet and they ...
La Esfînge, Cruz del Sur, New Route. Silvo Karo (Slovenia), Mauro “Bubu” Bole (Italy), and I traveled to Peru on my birthday, June 23. Upon our arrival at Base Camp (4650m) below La Esfinge (a.k.a. the Sphinx) on June 27, we had some problems with...
Annapurna II Attempt. A six-member team from South Korea was led by Jung Sang-Mo. They set up Base Camp and Camps I, II, IV and V at 11,500, 14,750, 16,725, 22,300 and 23,950 feet on September 3, 4, 7, October 1 and 8 respectively. They hoped to c...
Neacola. A complete article on the ascent of this remote peak appears earlier in this Journal.
Karyolung Winter Attempt, 1986. A joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition led by Kim Young-Ho attempted Karyolung by its northeast face. They had two camps above Base Camp. On January 25, 1986 Ko Heung-Lyul and Ang Chir- ing Sherpa reached 6400 meters ...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1993. The 1993 climbing season was essentially normal compared with the tragic season last year. The weather was better than normal and climbers generally exhibited more caution, contributi...
Swachand, West Face, Attempt. Malcolm Bass, Julian Clamp and Simon Yearsley (U.K.) attempted the west face of Swachand (6721m) during September and October. Swachand was first climbed by the Austrians Messner and Spann raft during the incredibly p...
Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. A French expedition led by Philippe Berger failed to climb the southwest ridge of Annapurna Dakshin (South). The other three members, Vincent Couttet, Eric Fauret and Denis Leroy, reached their highest point of 6300 mete...