Satopanth. One of the three Altitude Extrême expeditions climbed Satopanth by the normal route with bad weather and difficult snow conditions. Two members were carried away by a snow avalanche but were able to escape without injury. After starting...
Gasherbrum I and II. A Czechoslovakian expedition led by Robert Gálfy succeeded in climbing both of these peaks. Gálfy, František Šoltés and Ivan Urbanovic, Jr. climbed to the summit of Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak). Two women of the same expedition,...
The Torre Traverse (Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, and Cerro Torre). From January 21-24, 2008, Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley made a phenomenal first enchainment of these towers in a continuous alpine-style push, climbing from nor...
Everest Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Cécile Pelaudeix, Charles Moray, Jean-Michel Asselin, Michel Bordet, Guy Martin, Eric Dutrievoz, Jean-Paul Meurisse, Emmanuel Cauchy, Dominique Martial, American Tony Riley and me as leader. We arrived ...
Manaslu, East Face. The fourth ascent of Manaslu by a fourth route, the east face, was successfully completed by a German expedition led by Dr. Gerhard Schmatz. Other members were René Arnold, Dr. Volkert Gazert, Siegfried Hupfauer, Günter Kämpfe,...
Appalachian Mountain Club. A major effort to clean up deferred maintenance on the Club’s extensive trail system was carried out in the summer of 1956. The huts were visited by more people than ever. Lectures, as usual, were popular and included cl...
Tukuche Attempts. Two post-monsoon expeditions on the northwest ridge of Tukuche (6920 meters, 22,703 feet) were unsuccessful. Seven Britons led by Miss Isobel Inglis reached 5950 meters on October 28, while a nine-member French expedition led by ...
FALL ON ROCKNew York, Adirondacks, Upper Washbowl CliffOn August 16, Dennis Murphy (35) had reached the top of a climbing route on Upper Washbowl Cliffs in Keene Valley at about 6:10 p.m. when he lost his footing and fell more than 100 feet. New Y...
Mount Hayes, Northeast Ridge. On May 15, Tom Douglas, Fred Harbison and I started from the Trident Glacier (6,000 feet) up a new route on the southeast ridge of Mount Hayes in the central Alaska Range. About 500 feet up the route, Harbison had a m...
Library of Empress Marie LouiseIn 1933 there was dispersed in Berlin ( Martin Breslauer) a group of books which once formed part of the library of Empress Marie Louise, second wife of Napoleon I, later Duchess of Parma, Piacenza and Guastalla.Duri...
Yarlha Shampo, attempt. This 6635m peak, which lies 80 km southeast of Lhasa at 28° 45' N, 91° 50' E, was attempted for the first time last year. Yoshiki Ito and 17 members of the Yamagata Mountaineering Association met with bad weather (particula...
Colorado, Jefferson County—Coal Creek Canyon—On 2 Sept., H. T. Carlson (17), Bill Steele (19) and Jerry Kahler (17) were climbing a steep cliff near the highway in leather soled shoes. They had no equipment and no experience in technical climbing,...
FAILURE TO TEST HANDHOLD—California, Mt. Haeckel, Sequoia-King’s Canyon. Don Burgess (19) and four companions were climbing the East Ridge of Mt. Haeckel. It is a class 3 route. They had a rope but were not using it. Burgess had climbed Mt. Haecke...
Kang Karpo and Meili Ranges. In October, Nicholas Clinch, Peter Davis, Gary Driggs, Brian and Diane Okonek, Peter Schoening and I, supported by Professor Zhou Zheng, Sun Po, Zhou Rong, Lin Cong and Cai Shun-Bo, visited the Kang Karpo and Meili ran...
Fairweather, Carpé Ridge. Don Langlois, Bill Staub and I landed on the beach just above Sea Creek on April 29. After following the normal route, on May 10 we hauled our last load to Base Camp. The approach had been long and hard, but the weather m...
FALL INTO MOAT, FALLING ROCK, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, Bugaboo SpireIn August, S.A. and B.C. approached the east face of Bugaboo Spire, intending to climb the Left-Hand Herr route. They ascended a snow apron below ...
Nanda Devi East. Our Catalan expedition was composed of Xavier Laporta, Manel Lobe, Salvador Angles, Josep Antón Alarcón, Ricard Miquel, Marc Martinez, Marc Cercós, Antón Rañé, Anna Rodríguez and me as leader. The route we followed was the only on...
Argentine Patagonia, Various Ascents. Argentine Rolando Garibotti and American Doug Byerly enjoyed a productive 1996-’97 Patagonian season, climbing the 1974 British Route (550 meters, 5.11 A0) on Aguja Inominata on December 2, the third ascent of...
Iowa Mountaineers. The Iowa Mountaineers celebrated their 50th anniversary with a very active schedule in 1990. Membership remained steady at about 1,200 members. Over 2,660 people participated in the club’s various courses, summer mountaineering ...
Moab Area, Various Ascents. Sunshine Wall is an exciting Wingate buttress bordering the northern reaches of Salt Valley, just north of the border of Arches National Park. It is reached by a good dirt road that branches east from U.S. 191 approxima...