Cloud Peak, East Face, Bighorns. On July 2, I climbed a couloir to the left of the sheer, blank section of the east face, solo. It was 45° ice and snow. It should be climbed in August as wet snow slides were frequent when I was in the couloir. Lat...
P 7500 (“Hound’s Tooth”). On June 15 Dan Cauthorn and I in three hours climbed P 7500 via its west snow slope and rock scramble from the Buckthorn Glacier. The peak lies north of the Broken Tooth and east of the Moose’s Tooth. We propose the name ...
Cho Oyu, Foresummit, and Shisha Pangma, Central Summit. On August 30, Jan Harris, Jim Jennings, Dan Langmade and I arrived at the 5400-meter roadhead Base Camp for Cho Oyu. We established Advance Base at the junction of the Gyabrak and Nangpala Gl...
Chilkoot Range. George Barnett, Dr. Russell Batt, William Bendy, Dr. Jurgen Meyer-Arendt, Dan Reeder, Dr. Thomas Stengle, Charles Warren and I as leader climbed in the Chilkoot range along the international boundary adjacent to the south branch of...
Haverford Mountaineers. The Club now has 18 members, with Archibald Macintosh as faculty advisor. Activities center in training on near-by cliffs. Plans for the future include a possible trip to the Canadian Rockies in 1952.Peter Wood
Nevado Alpamayo. In July, Glenn Garland and I climbed Alpamayo in 11 days, round trip from Colcas, including two rest days. The route to the north col, over the glaciers from the west, was very complicated due to low snowfalls the previous season,...
Hindu Kush. An expedition from North Germany climbed in the Hindu Kush, possibly in the Koh-i-Chebrek region, and made the ascents of some 16 peaks, all of them less than 20,000 feet. The leader was Josef Ruf.
Sisne Himal, Kanjiroba. The two-man team of Captain Richard A.L. Anderson of the British Army and Andrew C.F. Russell was assisted by a lone Sherpa. They had set up Base Camp at 12,600 feet on the 22,505-foot peak. The weather was not good in the ...
Mount Heyburn, Northwest Ridge. Beckey and Fuller climbed about two-thirds of the way up the northwest ridge and then traversed into the north face where they found some fine class five pitches to the top. A few days later Fuller took me up the sa...
Committee for the Protection of the Environment of the Cordillera Blanca. This Peruvian committee has been formed in order to combat the deterioration of the trails, campsites, woods, lakes and glaciers of the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera ...
Aconcagua, South Buttress of South Summit. In January, a Slovene expedition of 15 members first spent ten days acclimatizing by climbing Mirador (5500 meters, 18,045 feet). They then split into three groups. The first, including a woman member, Ta...
Cuerno principal, Paine group. A light Chilean expedition, made up of four university students, attempted the main horn of the Paine, locally known as Cuerno Principal del Paine (2110 meters or 6890 feet). The group was led by Eduardo García who h...
Mount Hood, North Face. On July 11,I made a quick ascent of Mount Hood, climbing 5300 feet in 3¼ hours, to take a peek down the north face at the Eliot Glacier Headwall. Conditions were ideal for soloing with clear skies, below-freezing temperatur...
Sierra Nevada. For the Sierra Club, which is interested primarily in conservation, mountaineering activities are administered by a Mountaineering Committee, at present under the chairmanship of Morgan Harris. Local rock climbing committees conduct...
LOSS OF CONTROL, VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Mount RainierOn May 31, 1981, John Sabella (33) caught a crampon point and lost control while attempting a sitting glissade during a descent from the Emmons Glacier at the 10,5...
Ghent II, Second Ascent. A 10-man Japanese expedition led by Harutoshi Kobayashi made the second ascent of Ghent II (24,092 feet), which had been climbed first by Austrians in 1977. Base Camp was established on the Kondus Glacier at 13,450 feet. T...
Lhotse Intermediate, Attempt and Tragedy. Vladimir Bashkirov, a Russian climber who summited Everest with his Indonesian employers this season had, amongst his many accomplishments, led the successful first attempt to climb the very steep south ri...
Nowhere To Run, South Buttress, North Mountain, Kings Canyon National Park. Along the “Motor Nature Trail” and above a Park Service residence rises a prominent pillar of rock. In May, Bill McConachie, Barry Fowlie and I found that the route had fi...
Snow Creek Wall, Country Club Route. Thwarted by bad weather, and somewhat put-off by the overabundance of people heading for the north side of Mount Stuart, we sighted instead on nearby Snow Creek Wall for our after-Christmas adventure. On Decemb...
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Mount WashingtonOn December 31, 1982, at 2300, Edward Aalbue (21) fell to his death while out looking for a friend who was overdue from a climb of the Central Gully in Huntington Ravine. Aalbue went out tow...