Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. After the successes on Gasherbrum I and II in 1985 and Broad Peak and K2 in 1986, the Quota 8000 climbers turned in the summer of 1987 to the 1962 German route on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. We were Italians leader ...
Chulu East, South Buttress, 1988. On November 25, 1988, Sara Ballantyne, Nuru Wangchu and I stood on the summit of Chulu East. We believe we had made the first ascent of the triangular-shaped south buttress, 2000 feet of 60° ice. Approach camps we...
Palcaraju Oeste. Our expedition was composed of Josep Piera, leader, Albert Altet, Lluís Ambròs, Eduard Ballbè, Esteva Cardellach and me. With the veteran porter Eustaquio Henostroza, we set up Base Camp in the Quebrada Ishinca at 14,400 feet on J...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1983, with membership remaining about 700. Nearly 300 members participated in one of the courses, the mountain camps, or the foreign expeditions, which were from one to four weeks long. ...
Suj Tilla West, second ascent. The Ralam valley lies between the more famous Milam valley to its west and the little-known Lassar Yankti to its east. It harbors the breathtakingly beautiful village of Ralam and a system of three glaciers, namely; ...
Nanda Devi East. The expedition which I led to Nanda Devi East was composed of 14 Indians and 14 Ukrainians. Because of the closure of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, we approached from Kumaon to the east, making the second ascent of the peak from outsi...
Trisul and P 21,220. Trisul (23,360 feet) was climbed by Sadananda Das, Aninda Sen, Jeten Mitra, Dawle M. Kindo, Nima Dorje and Sher Singh on September 21. Prabir K. Banerjee, Kalsadhan Banerjee, Sovon Gupta, Dwijen Roy, Nima Dorje and Kitare clim...
Holkham Bay. A brief visit was made to the glaciers of Tracy and Endicott Arms of Holkham Bay by Russell Dow and the writer. The position of the termini relative to the observations of 1929 were as follows : Sumdum Glacier has retreated ; North an...
MARJORIE MAYE MEEHAN HOWORTH 1904–1987Marjorie Maye Meehan was born in Quincy, Illinois in 1904. She attended the local schools and studied at the Chicago Academy of Art. She had a career in professional dancing in many cities of the Midwest. She ...
Cloud Peak, East Face, Bighorn Mountains. On June 24 Shawn Hogan, Dave Holsworth and I climbed a new couloir on the east face of Cloud Peak. There are four major couloirs on the face, two on the south of the wall and two on the north. Ours was the...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, MISCOMMUNICATION Nevada, Red Rocks, American SportsmanOn January 25, 1992, Matt Spydell of Santa Barbara, California, reached the anchors on American Sportsman (5.10c) on the Wall of Confusion, Red Rocks, Nevada. Hi...
FALL ON ROCK – FALL ON ROCKNorth Carolina, Pilot Mountain State ParkOn February 13, several others and I witnessed a long fall that resulted in a climber hitting the ground. I was climbing Foreign Trade Zone while a party of two was top-roping som...
Ulugh Mustagh. A joint expedition of 23 Japanese and 13 Chinese made the second ascent of Ulugh Mustagh. On August 31, six climbers got to the top, including climbing leader Fuminori Furukawa.
Tirich Mir via West Spur of Tirich Mir West. Our expedition again climbed alpine-style and consisted of only Gianni Calgagno and me. We first climbed Tirich Mir (25,290 feet), as a training climb, by the 1967 Czech route from the northwest col, us...
Norbu Kang (6,005m), second ascent. On September 7 Isolde Frei, Anna Wirbel, Edmund Wirbel, Dorje Lama Tamang, and Tendi Sherpa made the second ascent of Norbu Kang. This Austrian-Luxemburger team followed the 2002 Japanese route on the north face...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. Activities continued much the same as in years past. The membership now stands at 146 with 57 qualified rope leaders.The club held local climbs about once a month throughout the year. Most of these were held at Devils ...
Mount Spurr. The icefall which skirts the east of Crater Peak provided a new route to Mount Spurr’s summit. After landing on winter snow south of Crater Peak, we attacked the icefall on March 25. Marginal weather provided an ethereal setting as sé...
El Capitan, The Dihedral Wall. On June 6, after 5 days of difficult aid climbing, Tom Frost and I completed the first continuous ascent of the Dihedral Wall, otherwise known as the direct southwest face of El Capitan. We passed our first night in ...
Here are the events leading up to the rescue of the nine climbers, from three parties, from Camp 6 on the Nose. Quotations have been edited. The American party consisted of Dean Freeman (34), Craig DeMartino (29), Tom Nonis (37), and Karen Ba...
Arctic Manual. Two paper-backed volumes prepared under direction of the Chief of the Air Forces, United States Army. 536 pages. No illustrations. Washington: U. S. Government Printing Office, 1940. Price 70 cents per set.While reading the Arctic M...