LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FALL ON SNOW, HIT AND DRAGGED BY FALLING CLIMBER, INEXPERIENCE, MISPERCEPTIONWashington, Silver/Tinkham PeaksOn June 8, Joe Myers (40), Jacob Engelstein (40), and Phil Loe (58) were attempting to climb Tinkham P...
Mt. Inglismaldie. New route. 1938, E. E. Bishop, D. R. Crosby. From Anthracite by way of the S. W. ridge in 5 h., thence following the crest and making the first ascent of Mt. Girouard.
International Himalaya Expedition. Prof. and Mrs. G. O. Dyhrenfurth again led an expedition to the Himalaya, composed this time of Marcel Kurz, Dr. Winzeler, André Roch, James Belayeff, Hans Ertl, Albert Höcht, Piero Ghiglione and a number of cine...
Peaks on Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. An Italian expedition was led by Dr. Bruno Barabino and had as climbers Dr. Giampaolo Guidobono Cavalchini, Dr. Giorgio Gualco, Dr. Franco Baravalle, Carlo Boati, Dr. Serena Sauli, Matteo Visconti di M...
Shisha Pangma. The Naturfreunde Expedition consisted of Hans Mautner, leader, Dr. Paul Alf, Thaddäus Dowbenka, Roman Findl, Egon Obojes, Karl Ölmüller, Kurt Pokos and Ewald Putz. Base Camp was established on September 18 at 16,850 feet. Camps I, I...
All Four 7000ers and Khan Tengri in One Season. I departed Italy on July 2 and returned August 28. The following peaks were climbed in sequence. In the Pamir, Andrey Molotov, Denis Urubko and I summitted Pik Lenin (7134m) on July 15 four days afte...
Yacuma Group, Cordillera Real. Annibale Bonicelli was leader of an Italian expedition from Bergamo. Others were Rino Farina, Augusto Sugliani, Santino and Nino Calegari and Padre Giuseppe Vitali. They entered the Cordillera Real from Coocó and pla...
Vinson Massif. Vern Tejas climbed the highest peak in Antarctica in 14 hours from Base Camp to summit to Base Camp on December 11, five days after guiding two other men to the top. His only difficulties on the day-long journey, which began at four...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, Harriman State ParkOn June 1, 1985,1 was on the first pitch of a climb whose name and rating I do not know. I was about three meters from my last piece of protection on a hard trave...
STRANDED—BENIGHTED (LATE START), INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows, Lembert DomeOn September 7 at 2030, Philip Kast (22) and Sean McCarthy (25) were benighted and ledged out ...
Palcaraju Oeste, Ratz Fatz. On the west face of the west summit (6110m) a new route, Ratz Fatz (500m, TD), was established by Chileans Eduardo Mondragon, and Martin Waldhoer on July 25,2000. The route begins just right of a prominent rock spur nea...
Anglo-Danish Trans-Greenland Expedition. On April 21 John Anderson, Erik Hjelmar, Sven Poulsson and I left Kulusuk on the east coast on the first stage of a 720-mile sledge journey across the inland icecap. From the air strip at Kulusuk we commenc...
Tower Mountain, Southwest Rib, 1989. From afar, this route appears both south-facing and defined as a ridge. Close inspection revealed it to be a series of south west-trending ribs blending into one. Joe Cataloni and I discovered this on July 21, ...
Chobutse Attempt. All twelve members attempted Ramdung (5925 meters, 19,440 feet) unsuccessfully before going to Chobutse. Then seven of us tried to climb Chobutse (6685 meters, 21,932 feet) by a new route, the central southwest ridge. David Heath...
Jirishanca summary. The impressive southeast aspect of Jirishanca (6,094m [sometimes given as 6,126m]) was a focal point of Huayhuash activity in 2003. In June, Brits Nick Bullock and Al Powell, returning after a near disaster in 2002 when they we...
Chilkat Range. Chuck Warren, Dave Butherus, Ted and Steve Lewis, Duncan Crosby and I as leader visited the heart of the Chilkat Range in southeastern Alaska at the head of the Davidson Glacier in June. We climbed P 6658, the main peak south of the...
British Columbia, Selkirks, Swiss Peaks. On 17 July Donald David Wallbridge (35) apparently climbed at least one other peak in the vicinity of Rogers Peak Hermit area since he had signed the Cairn register on Sifton (9,563 feet) and had apparently...
In August 2009 Andy Baker, Jack Grinsted, and I climbed the obvious left-trending couloir on the southeast face of Maria Lloco (5,523m), a striking subsidiary peak west of Huayna Potosi. The finish involved three steep ice pitches up the headwal...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Crowfoot MountainOn August 13, 1989, F.E. (58) was hiking up Crowfoot Mountain. At 1100, he was ascending the small, relatively snow-free glacier on the West Face o...
There has recently appeared in the Revista Mensile of the C. A. I. (Vol. XLVIII, Sept.-Oct., 1929, No. 9-10, pp. 213-223) a very interesting article by one of our members, M. Strumia on the northern Canadian Rockies, giving an account of the climb...