Jirishanca summary. The impressive southeast aspect of Jirishanca (6,094m [sometimes given as 6,126m]) was a focal point of Huayhuash activity in 2003. In June, Brits Nick Bullock and Al Powell, returning after a near disaster in 2002 when they we...
Chilkat Range. Chuck Warren, Dave Butherus, Ted and Steve Lewis, Duncan Crosby and I as leader visited the heart of the Chilkat Range in southeastern Alaska at the head of the Davidson Glacier in June. We climbed P 6658, the main peak south of the...
British Columbia, Selkirks, Swiss Peaks. On 17 July Donald David Wallbridge (35) apparently climbed at least one other peak in the vicinity of Rogers Peak Hermit area since he had signed the Cairn register on Sifton (9,563 feet) and had apparently...
In August 2009 Andy Baker, Jack Grinsted, and I climbed the obvious left-trending couloir on the southeast face of Maria Lloco (5,523m), a striking subsidiary peak west of Huayna Potosi. The finish involved three steep ice pitches up the headwal...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Crowfoot MountainOn August 13, 1989, F.E. (58) was hiking up Crowfoot Mountain. At 1100, he was ascending the small, relatively snow-free glacier on the West Face o...
There has recently appeared in the Revista Mensile of the C. A. I. (Vol. XLVIII, Sept.-Oct., 1929, No. 9-10, pp. 213-223) a very interesting article by one of our members, M. Strumia on the northern Canadian Rockies, giving an account of the climb...
Satopanth. One of the three Altitude Extrême expeditions climbed Satopanth by the normal route with bad weather and difficult snow conditions. Two members were carried away by a snow avalanche but were able to escape without injury. After starting...
Gasherbrum I and II. A Czechoslovakian expedition led by Robert Gálfy succeeded in climbing both of these peaks. Gálfy, František Šoltés and Ivan Urbanovic, Jr. climbed to the summit of Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak). Two women of the same expedition,...
The Torre Traverse (Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, and Cerro Torre). From January 21-24, 2008, Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley made a phenomenal first enchainment of these towers in a continuous alpine-style push, climbing from nor...
Everest Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Cécile Pelaudeix, Charles Moray, Jean-Michel Asselin, Michel Bordet, Guy Martin, Eric Dutrievoz, Jean-Paul Meurisse, Emmanuel Cauchy, Dominique Martial, American Tony Riley and me as leader. We arrived ...
Manaslu, East Face. The fourth ascent of Manaslu by a fourth route, the east face, was successfully completed by a German expedition led by Dr. Gerhard Schmatz. Other members were René Arnold, Dr. Volkert Gazert, Siegfried Hupfauer, Günter Kämpfe,...
Appalachian Mountain Club. A major effort to clean up deferred maintenance on the Club’s extensive trail system was carried out in the summer of 1956. The huts were visited by more people than ever. Lectures, as usual, were popular and included cl...
Tukuche Attempts. Two post-monsoon expeditions on the northwest ridge of Tukuche (6920 meters, 22,703 feet) were unsuccessful. Seven Britons led by Miss Isobel Inglis reached 5950 meters on October 28, while a nine-member French expedition led by ...
FALL ON ROCKNew York, Adirondacks, Upper Washbowl CliffOn August 16, Dennis Murphy (35) had reached the top of a climbing route on Upper Washbowl Cliffs in Keene Valley at about 6:10 p.m. when he lost his footing and fell more than 100 feet. New Y...
Mount Hayes, Northeast Ridge. On May 15, Tom Douglas, Fred Harbison and I started from the Trident Glacier (6,000 feet) up a new route on the southeast ridge of Mount Hayes in the central Alaska Range. About 500 feet up the route, Harbison had a m...
Library of Empress Marie LouiseIn 1933 there was dispersed in Berlin ( Martin Breslauer) a group of books which once formed part of the library of Empress Marie Louise, second wife of Napoleon I, later Duchess of Parma, Piacenza and Guastalla.Duri...
Yarlha Shampo, attempt. This 6635m peak, which lies 80 km southeast of Lhasa at 28° 45' N, 91° 50' E, was attempted for the first time last year. Yoshiki Ito and 17 members of the Yamagata Mountaineering Association met with bad weather (particula...
Colorado, Jefferson County—Coal Creek Canyon—On 2 Sept., H. T. Carlson (17), Bill Steele (19) and Jerry Kahler (17) were climbing a steep cliff near the highway in leather soled shoes. They had no equipment and no experience in technical climbing,...
FAILURE TO TEST HANDHOLD—California, Mt. Haeckel, Sequoia-King’s Canyon. Don Burgess (19) and four companions were climbing the East Ridge of Mt. Haeckel. It is a class 3 route. They had a rope but were not using it. Burgess had climbed Mt. Haecke...
Kang Karpo and Meili Ranges. In October, Nicholas Clinch, Peter Davis, Gary Driggs, Brian and Diane Okonek, Peter Schoening and I, supported by Professor Zhou Zheng, Sun Po, Zhou Rong, Lin Cong and Cai Shun-Bo, visited the Kang Karpo and Meili ran...