Originally we had planned to attempt a first ascent of Kawaluori (Kawarani) near Ganze. However, it proved impossible to secure permission due to religious celebrations and the need to avoid disturbing the delicate political balance in the region....
American-Japanese Climbing Exchange, Part I in Alaska. In February four Japanese came to Alaska, at the invitation of the Alaska Section of the AAC to climb ice. In October, an American (mostly Alaskan) team made a reciprocal, rock-climbing visit ...
Deadman Buttress, Sonora Pass Region, 1982 and 1984. In July 1982 Don Neer and I climbed the Arête Route up crack systems on the central of the three buttresses on the south side of Highway 108, ½ mile east of Chipmunk Flat. The route is on the ar...
Mt. Whitney, …Lost. Our climb was spectacular and, compared to our expectations, epic. Not counting 8,000' vertical of carrying loads in the first 24 hours. Not counting getting snowed off the Fishhook Arête, our training climb. Not counting our t...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, PROTECTION PULLED OUTAlberta, Bow Valley, Yamnuska, CMC WallOn June 15, a female climber was leading on the CMC Wall on Yamnnska (Mount John Laurie). On the third pitch near the top, she pulled out some large l...
Trisul, West Face. A seven-man Japanese expedition climbed the Yugoslavian route on Trisul’s west face. The leader was Kozo Sakano. Base Camp was established at 15,550 feet on September 4 and Camp I at 16,900 feet on the 7th. Camp II was placed at...
Makalu, West Buttress Attempt and Tragedy. New Zealanders Peter Hillary and Bill Denz and Australians Mark Moorhead and Fred From attempted to climb the west buttress of Makalu. They pitched three camps above Base Camp. The death of two of the fou...
From June 13-15, Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Colin Haley climbed Mt. Foraker by starting on False Dawn, then making the first ascent of a 3,000' mixed wall on the southeast face, and finishing via the French Ridge. Their climb, Dracula (AI4+ M6R AO), ...
Ama Dablam, North Ridge Attempt. Steven Davis, Charles “Mick” Holt, Jeffery Alzner and I attempted the north ridge of Ama Dablam. After some delay in getting our baggage because of the continuing monsoon, we established Base Camp on September 25 a...
FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSWashington, Chair PeakOn June 30, 1984, The Mountain School, a well-known climbing academy that has been operated by Ray Smutek out of Renton for the last 14 years, had just finished five intensive days of traini...
LIST OF PEAKS1 KNOWN TO EXCEED 9000 FEET IN ALTITUDECoast RangeLatitudeLongitudeElevationfeet“Kate’s Needle”57° 03'132° 02'9,954“Devil’s Thumb”57 00132 229,127St. Elias RangeLatitudeLongitudeElevationfeetMount St. Elias60° 18'140° 55'18,024Mount V...
Gunnbjørns Fjeld. A Mountain Travel expedition made another ascent of Gunnbjøms Fjeld. On June 26, Americans Jim Williams, Jerry Corr, Robert Hoffman and I and Dane Gunnar Jensen climbed to the summit. An original objective of measuring neighborin...
FALLING ROCK-BLOCK PULLED OFFNew Mexico, Sandia Mountain Wilderness, Hail PeakAfter breakfast and coffee, Sinjin Eberle and I set out to have a nice day for a multi-pitch 5.8 climb of Hail Peak on May 9, Mother’s Day. The weather was warm and stab...
Wyoming: (1) Teton Range. At noon on 19 July 1950, a party of four was returning from the Teton Glacier by the normal route. This requires crossing a steep slope on the north side of Disappointment Peak This was largely covered by hard packed snow...
The weekend of June 4-5, the G.A.M (Grupo de Alta Montaña) de los Perros Alpinos went to the sector Queltehues – Las Melosas, near Santiago but very seldom visited by climbers, mostly due to private companies prohibiting access. On the map w...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT,CLIMBING ALONE Arizona, Wilson CanyonOn February 25, 1988, Damien Glassy (30s) had ascended the standard Wilson Mountain Trail (south) to the summit of Wilson Mountain by himself. He had on minim...
Trango Attempts. Two Japanese expeditions both failed to climb the easternmost of the Trango Towers (5753 meters, 18,875 feet) by its southwest buttress. The first party, led by Yoshimitsu Takatori, in June got to about 1000 feet from the summit. ...
Climbing in the Icefield Ranges of Kluane National Park Reserve. The 1993 season was characterized by relatively mild weather during June and July. Many expeditions reported unusually warm temperatures, higher than normal firn lines and unstable s...
Shark’s Nose, North Face. The north face of Shark’s Nose, immediately above the notch adjacent to Overhanging Tower, offers a direct ascent of about 600 feet. Though it has been used for descent, the face had never been scaled prior to this summer...
Brakk Zang, Ganyips. From June 28 to July 5, Pep Masip and I put up a new route on the southeast face of a virgin mountain named Brakk Zang (4800m) in one of the secondary Hushe valleys of the Pakistan Karakoram. We called the route Ganyips (VI 6a...