Pyramid Peak, Desolation Wilderness Area. Last summer I made several ascents on this peak and on a neighboring buttress. In July Steve Iverson and I climbed Pika Crack on the northwest face of Pyramid Peak. This is a crack right of the main dihedr...
St. Paul Peak, East Face Direct, Cabinet Range, 1981. Brad Weller and I climbed a chimney and dihedral system directly up the center of the steep east face of St. Paul Peak in early July, 1981. The route consisted of 10 pitches of rock climbing, t...
King Peak Reconnaissance. The Japanese Akira Aida and Hisao Nakadai represented the Renrei Alpine Club of Tokyo and made a reconnaissance of the south face of King Peak, which will be attempted by a large group in 1970. The two climbers reached a ...
Alberta, The Rockies, Mt. Eisenhower. On June 23, four experienced Edmonton climbers set out to climb the southeast ridge or face of the East Tower of Eisenhower. They were Patricia Payne (45), Ernie Kinsey, Jaro Mares, and Eric Hopkins.Top of the...
Abominable Snowman. Again the abominable snowman has caused a furore. Eric Shipton, leader of the post-monsoon British reconnaissance expedition to the S. side of Mount Everest, brought back excellent photographs of what his Sherpa porters declare...
North Howser Tower, Southwest Face, Bugaboos. After reading the title of this entry students of the minutiae of this journal might well ask if the real west face of the Howsers would please stand up. Claims to have climbed the west face have been ...
STRANDED, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount CoryOn August 23, 1981, two teenagers from Calgary decided to scramble up a mountain. About 200 meters above the highway, they encountered rock. The more adventurous youth continued; the wiser ...
FALL ON SNOW, FATIGUE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 16 at 1840, Christoph Haider (24) fell from below Denali Pass while descending the West Buttress route. Ranger Kevin Moore and others witnessed the fall and res...
Makalu Attempt. A Polish expedition led by Janusz Kurczab attempted the northwest ridge of Makalu but had to give up the climb on October 27 after reaching Camp IV at 24,275 feet. One member died in an avalanche on October 6. There were two women ...
Patagonia, Traverse. Carsten Birckhahn (Germany) and partners made a traverse from the Pacific to the Atlantic oceans across Patagonia in the spring of 1998. They started at the Pacific Ocean in Fiordo Calvo, then crossed the Hielo Continental Pat...
Mount Gannett, Chugach Range. At first light on March 18 on a completely clear day Gary Hansen, Bill Long, Frank Nosek and I were flown to the upper end of one of the spurs of the Knik Glacier. From our landing spot at 7000 feet we went directly u...
Latok II Tragedy. Our expedition attempted Latok II (23,340 feet) by the west ridge, previously attempted by the Japanese in 1975. We were Don Morrison, Pat Fearnehough, Pat Green, Tony Riley and I. We reached Skardu on May 23 and established Base...
Southern Appalachian Section. The primary objective for the new Southern Appalachian Section was to establish itself as relevant to AAC members as well as to the broader climbing community across the southern Appalachian mountains. Our membership ...
Mount Bryce. The middle peak of Mount Bryce was successfully climbed for the first time on July 27. The 11,100-foot summit was attained at 7:55 A.M. where a cairn was erected. The approach was from the Saskatchewan Glacier Hut, across Castleguard ...
Kent McClannan and I climbed a new route on an unnamed peak west of Shaqsha in the Cordillera Blanca. [Editor's note: This peak is now known as Nevado Quillujirca (5,040m).] The granite wall, which tops out at ca. 16,000', is clearly visible from ...
North America’s highest peak was climbed by a number of different expeditions. Most of them ascended the mountain via the West Buttress and visited only the main (south) summit. Those that reached the top successfully by this route were as follows...
Simvu Southeast, Sikkim. A 15-man team from the National Cadet Corps was led by Major Puskar Chand. They trekked from Gangtok with 30 porters. They had no high-altitude porters. They crossed the Theula Pass (17,100 feet), built a log bridge over t...
North Central Section. The North Central Section was without a chairman in 2006 as the former chair of eight years, Scott Christensen, resigned to finish his Ph D. in comparative physiology. Because of this, communication within the Section was a ...
Parshui Valley. The German Naturfreunde (Nature Friends) Expedition was in the Parshui valley off the upper Munjan valley. The leader was Manfred Kaierleber; other members were Wolfgang Frey, Heinz Gall, Karl Gross, Karl Hiller and Gottfried Holch...
Kluane National Park Climbing Season; Mounts Logan, Kennedy and Al- verstone. During the 1984 climbing season in Kluane National Park, there were 16 groups that climbed or skied in the St. Elias Mountains. This was made up of 87 men and women who ...