Kent McClannan and I climbed a new route on an unnamed peak west of Shaqsha in the Cordillera Blanca. [Editor's note: This peak is now known as Nevado Quillujirca (5,040m).] The granite wall, which tops out at ca. 16,000', is clearly visible from ...
North America’s highest peak was climbed by a number of different expeditions. Most of them ascended the mountain via the West Buttress and visited only the main (south) summit. Those that reached the top successfully by this route were as follows...
Simvu Southeast, Sikkim. A 15-man team from the National Cadet Corps was led by Major Puskar Chand. They trekked from Gangtok with 30 porters. They had no high-altitude porters. They crossed the Theula Pass (17,100 feet), built a log bridge over t...
North Central Section. The North Central Section was without a chairman in 2006 as the former chair of eight years, Scott Christensen, resigned to finish his Ph D. in comparative physiology. Because of this, communication within the Section was a ...
Parshui Valley. The German Naturfreunde (Nature Friends) Expedition was in the Parshui valley off the upper Munjan valley. The leader was Manfred Kaierleber; other members were Wolfgang Frey, Heinz Gall, Karl Gross, Karl Hiller and Gottfried Holch...
Kluane National Park Climbing Season; Mounts Logan, Kennedy and Al- verstone. During the 1984 climbing season in Kluane National Park, there were 16 groups that climbed or skied in the St. Elias Mountains. This was made up of 87 men and women who ...
LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FALL ON SNOW, HIT AND DRAGGED BY FALLING CLIMBER, INEXPERIENCE, MISPERCEPTIONWashington, Silver/Tinkham PeaksOn June 8, Joe Myers (40), Jacob Engelstein (40), and Phil Loe (58) were attempting to climb Tinkham P...
Mt. Inglismaldie. New route. 1938, E. E. Bishop, D. R. Crosby. From Anthracite by way of the S. W. ridge in 5 h., thence following the crest and making the first ascent of Mt. Girouard.
International Himalaya Expedition. Prof. and Mrs. G. O. Dyhrenfurth again led an expedition to the Himalaya, composed this time of Marcel Kurz, Dr. Winzeler, André Roch, James Belayeff, Hans Ertl, Albert Höcht, Piero Ghiglione and a number of cine...
Peaks on Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. An Italian expedition was led by Dr. Bruno Barabino and had as climbers Dr. Giampaolo Guidobono Cavalchini, Dr. Giorgio Gualco, Dr. Franco Baravalle, Carlo Boati, Dr. Serena Sauli, Matteo Visconti di M...
Shisha Pangma. The Naturfreunde Expedition consisted of Hans Mautner, leader, Dr. Paul Alf, Thaddäus Dowbenka, Roman Findl, Egon Obojes, Karl Ölmüller, Kurt Pokos and Ewald Putz. Base Camp was established on September 18 at 16,850 feet. Camps I, I...
All Four 7000ers and Khan Tengri in One Season. I departed Italy on July 2 and returned August 28. The following peaks were climbed in sequence. In the Pamir, Andrey Molotov, Denis Urubko and I summitted Pik Lenin (7134m) on July 15 four days afte...
Yacuma Group, Cordillera Real. Annibale Bonicelli was leader of an Italian expedition from Bergamo. Others were Rino Farina, Augusto Sugliani, Santino and Nino Calegari and Padre Giuseppe Vitali. They entered the Cordillera Real from Coocó and pla...
Vinson Massif. Vern Tejas climbed the highest peak in Antarctica in 14 hours from Base Camp to summit to Base Camp on December 11, five days after guiding two other men to the top. His only difficulties on the day-long journey, which began at four...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, Harriman State ParkOn June 1, 1985,1 was on the first pitch of a climb whose name and rating I do not know. I was about three meters from my last piece of protection on a hard trave...
STRANDED—BENIGHTED (LATE START), INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows, Lembert DomeOn September 7 at 2030, Philip Kast (22) and Sean McCarthy (25) were benighted and ledged out ...
Palcaraju Oeste, Ratz Fatz. On the west face of the west summit (6110m) a new route, Ratz Fatz (500m, TD), was established by Chileans Eduardo Mondragon, and Martin Waldhoer on July 25,2000. The route begins just right of a prominent rock spur nea...
Anglo-Danish Trans-Greenland Expedition. On April 21 John Anderson, Erik Hjelmar, Sven Poulsson and I left Kulusuk on the east coast on the first stage of a 720-mile sledge journey across the inland icecap. From the air strip at Kulusuk we commenc...
Tower Mountain, Southwest Rib, 1989. From afar, this route appears both south-facing and defined as a ridge. Close inspection revealed it to be a series of south west-trending ribs blending into one. Joe Cataloni and I discovered this on July 21, ...
Chobutse Attempt. All twelve members attempted Ramdung (5925 meters, 19,440 feet) unsuccessfully before going to Chobutse. Then seven of us tried to climb Chobutse (6685 meters, 21,932 feet) by a new route, the central southwest ridge. David Heath...