Club Activities AAJ
AAC, North Central Section

AAC, North Central Section. The North Central Section covers Minnesota, Iowa, Nebraska, South Dakota and North Dakota. In July, 1999, Scott Christensen took over the post of chairman, which had been vacant in 1997-’98. A first goal was to make a w...


Accident Reports ANAM
Climber Pulled Rock Off, Rock Fall

CUMBER PULLED ROCK OFF, ROCK FALLColorado, Eldorado Canyon, Wind TowerOn June 17 rescuers were called to Eldorado Canyon State Park for a rock- slide with a person trapped. Selma Hafizbegovic (39) was going to climb the Wind Tower rock formation v...


Book Reviews AAJ
Unbekannte Schweizer Landschaften aus dem xvii

Unbekannte Schweizer Landschaften aus dem xvii. Jahrhundert, by S. Stelling-Michaud. 4to., pp. 103, with 40 plates. Zürich: Niehans Verlag, 1937. Sw. Fr. 16.50.The great Dutch masters, like Rembrandt, seldom traveled south of the Alps—there were e...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Angelino Wall, Drop Zone

Angelino Wall, Drop Zone. From November 27-December 1, 1996, Chris McNamara and I climbed Drop Zone (11 pitches, 5.8 A4-) on the Angelino Wall, the chocolate-colored pillar on the first large formation behind the Visitors’ Center. The Angelino Wal...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Himal, Manaslu, P2, First Ascent

P2, first ascent. As noted above, one of the aims of the Ukrainian expedition to Manaslu was to make the first ascent of P2 (6251m a.k.a. Simnag Himal East), a minor summit along the east ridge of Ngadi Chuli (7871m a.k.a. Peak 29) immediately sou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K7 Attempt

K7 Attempt. Bob Wightman, Bob Brewer, Luke Steer and I hoped to make the second ascent of K7 by a new route, the southwest ridge, capsule style. We arrived at Base Camp on July 23. Camps I and II were placed at 4600 and 5000 meters on July 25 and ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Placed No Protection, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Aberdeen

FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AberdeenAbout 1700 on August 27, a party of four were descending the north glacier separating the summits of Mts. Aberdeen (3152 meters) and Haddo. On the lower ice tongue (angled ab...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kanjiroba Himal, Norbu Kang, First Official Ascent

Norbu Kang, first official ascent. During the summer, Japanese led by Tamotsu Ohnishi made the first ascent of Norbu Kang, a recently opened 6,005m peak in the Upper Dolpo region of northwest Nepal. From a base camp pitched on June 20 at 4,805m, w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak Ascent and Attempts

Broad Peak Ascent and Attempts. As in previous years, a number of expeditions attempted to climb Broad Peak, mostly by the normal route. An international group of eight climbers from seven different countries was organized commercially and guided ...


Club Activities AAJ
Chicago Mountaineering Club

Chicago Mountaineering Club. During 1948 the Chicago Mountaineering Club enjoyed a series of fine monthly meetings from January to June and from October to December, and held a number of local outings. The favorite local climbing spot is Devils La...


Book Reviews AAJ
Over Tyrolese Hills

Over Tyrolese Hills, by F. S. Smythe. xv + 297 pages, with illustrations, map and index. London : Hodder & Stoughton, 1936. In the summer of 1935, as a preliminary to a more arduous Himalayan journey, the author, accompanied by a Canadian, Cam...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest in the Post-Monsoon Season

Everest in the Post-Monsoon Season. On the standard South Col route on Everest, climbers are somewhat better protected from the terrible winds that sweep the Tibetan side and on October 10, Japanese Muneo Nukita reached the summit with Sherpas Apa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, Various Ascents

Schweizerland, Various Ascents. It was reported that Britans Ian Brewer, Rupert Finn, Steve Fisher, Lucy and Richard Pash, and Cynnedd Richards skied some 100 kilometers through the Caledonian Alps and across the Glacier de France to reach their c...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Nyambo Kinka (6,114m), East Face, Attempt Asia, China

During the last week of April and the first week of May, a four-person New Zealand-American team, comprising Lydia Bradey, Kenny Gasch, Penny Goddard, and I, attempted the east face of Nyambo Konka. This beautiful summit lies just south of M...

| Published 2009 | Author Mark Jenkins


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Ladakh, Gya, Mistaken Attempt, and Other Ascents

Gya, Mistaken Attempt, and Other Ascents. It was reported that three expeditions attempted this unclimbed peak in 1997. In April, Arum Samant led a three-man team (Anil Chavan and Vinod Bodh) from Bombay that also included High-Altitude Porters Pa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Siulá Grande, South-Southeast Spur

Siulá Grande, South-Southeast Spur. On July 12 Jean Baehler, Luc Défago and I were at Base Camp at 13,775 feet on the shores of Siulácocha to the east of Siulá Grande below the unclimbed south-southeast spur. On the 13th we fixed rope on a 1000-fo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Montana, Glacier National Park, Various Activity

Glacier National Park, Various Activity. A cool, dry fall, a full moon, and the sudden arrival of an arctic front coincided with a trip Ryan Hokanson and I had planned for the first week- end in November. To ensure we didn’t waste such rare condit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Bubbs Creek Wall, Aquaman California, Sierra Nevada, Kings Canyon National Park

Viewing the massive south-facing Bubbs Creek Wall, one will see two obvious continuous crack systems on the right (east) side of the face. The left crack was climbed by Fred Beckey and party in 1974. In July 1983, Bill McConachie and I climbed the...

| Published N/A | Author Dick Leversee


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Olympic Mountains

Washington, Olympic Mountains, Mt. Cleaver. On August 26, a large party of Mazamas was climbing different spires in the vicinity of Mt. Cleaver. As the climbers were descending individually by different routes Dennis Searcy (18) apparently stepped...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall Rock, No Hard Hat, California, Yosemite Valley

FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite ValleyOn June 3, 1980, Jeff Jackson (21) and Bill Crichlow were climbing the Jam route on Glacier Point Apron. Jackson was leading the first pitch when he was struck twice by a rockfall and fell about...