K2, South-Southeast Spur Attempt. Jaime Alonso, Txema Cámera, Ramón Portilla, Juanjo Sebastián, Koldo Tapia, Martín Zabaleta, Sirdar Abdul Karin and I set up Base Camp on the Godwin Austen Glacier at the foot of the south face of K2 on July 14. We...
Nuptse, Northwest Summit. A five-person German expedition to Nuptse was led by Ralf Dujmovits. On November 2, they climbed the northwest ridge to the northwest summit (7742 meters, 25,400 feet), still about 400 feet short of the true summit.Elizab...
Mount Queen Mary, Northeast Face. In the Royal Group of the Canadian Rockies, south of Assiniboine, Mount Queen Mary has a spectacular long ice face on its unnamed northeast hanging glacier. The face was climbed this fall for the first time and ap...
Liayliak Valley, Pik 4,600m, north face. During the summer Taras Cushko, Sasha Homenko, and I (Lavrinenko) from Odessa put up a new route on the north face of Pik 4,600m. There was only one line on this face, the Bashkirov Route, which diagonals u...
Langtang Lirung, Post-Monsoon Southeast Ridge Attempts. Two expeditions attempted Langtang Lirung (7225 meters, 23,705 feet) by the southeast ridge in the post-monsoon period. British led by James Grey got to 6100 meters on October 31. Japanese un...
FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD, NO HARD HAT Washington, Cascade MountainsOn Saturday, August 20, 1988, my climbing partner Meryl Douglas and I, Stephen DiBiase (32), set out on what was to be an easy Class 2 hike up Cashmere Mountain (2757 met...
Parque Nacional Huascarán, Ancash-Perú . Jim Bartle. Dai Nippon, Tokyo, 1985. 40 pages, 68 color and 4 black-and-white photographs, 3 sketch maps. Paper. $8.00.
Road to Rakaposhi, by George Band ; with Chapters Two and Five by Ted Wrangham and Chapter Seven by George Band and Roger Chorley. Also two appendices by David Fisher. 192 pages, 47 photographs, 4 maps. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1955. Price,...
Gran Campo Nevada, above the Straits of Magellan. For 40 days Peter Bruchhausen, Jack Miller and William Rodarmor explored the region north of the Straits of Magellan. They left Punta Arenas on November 23 and emerged at Puerto Natales, having cov...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. It seems to be the opinion of many Eastern climbers, and almost the general consensus among those in the West, that the only creditable climbing in the East exists either in the Gunks or at Seneca Rock. For those who...
Dragontail Peak. Dick Heffernan and Skip Edmonds made the first winter ascent of the Wickwire-Stanley route in February, 1975.
El Capitan: Historical Feats and Radical Routes. Daniel Duane. San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 2000. 35 black-and-white photos. 143 pages. $24.95.The endpapers of Dan Duane’s book feature a double-page spread of the Grand Topo of El Capitan. Route...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE,DARKNESS Colorado, El Diente PeakJoe Yearm (28) was descending El Diente Peak (14,159 feet) in the San Juan National Forest alone after dark on Saturday July 16 when he fell 20 feet into a snowfield and fractured his l...
Spantik. Our expedition was composed of Helga Kircher, Rolf-Christian Reich, Emilie-Ursula Reich, Dr. Wolgang Bunzl, Ludwig Rohrmeier, Franz Kuhnhauser, Johann Geiss, Reinhard Schönfeld, Eberhart Zindel, Netherlander Gerhard Meerten and me as lead...
Payu Attempt. We had bad luck on Payu (less correctly written Paiju) this year. The members were Jean François Porret, Raymond Coène, Simone Badier, Jean Bourgeois, Dr. Lucien Honnilh and I as leader. We tried to climb Payu by the route attempted ...
Southern Patagonian Continental Icecap. From January to April another group of our Club was in the northern part of this region, where they accomplished the first north to south traverse of the northern part of the southern icecap. Starting from L...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (6)—On September 1, 1956 Miss Julie Griffin (21) and other members of the party were approaching the summit of the Durrance Ridge on Symmetry Spire. The belay rope running from Miss Griffin to her belayer caught ...
Italian Expedition to Qioqe Peninsula, Northwest Greenland. North of Umanak and of Alfred Wegener’s Halv-oe, between mighty fjords, lies a peninsula, whose mountains rise directly from sea level to 7500 feet, often with impressive cliffs. Broad gl...
Tengkangpoche, north pillar, attempt. Paul Bride, John Furneaux, and I attempted the unclimbed north pillar of Tengkangpoche (6,487m). Base camp was at 4,350m and Paul made it as far as 5,000m, capturing an amazing series of video, digital, and fi...
Kang Yassay, West Peak. The expedition (Mike Ratty, leader, Trevor Willis, John Shelley, John Lovett and Nick Fellowes) had planned an ascent and exploration of the unclimbed Thalda Kurmis, in the Rupshu region of Ladakh. Permission for the peak w...