FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATIdaho, City of RocksOn June 25, Tim Herron (early 30s) fell about five meters from Dire Straights. He was held by his rope, but he struck his head. He was lowered to a rock formation below, unconscious and having convulsio...
Denali Rehabilitation Project, 1976. Our special objective was to remove garbage from the 17,200-foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. We also interviewed many climbers and compiled attitudes and opinions about the numbers of climbers,...
ANALYSIS OF ACCIDENTSA breakdown of the accidents that occurred during 1954 and the cumulative totals are presented as in the past years. No marked change is noted. The descent still seems to be more hazardous than the ascent. The proper use of ra...
Lovelace, First Free Ascent. On April 25, Kennan Harvey and I wanted to try a free ascent of Moonlight Buttress in Zion, but a huge landslide had closed the canyon. Craig Luebben and Chris Harmston planned to aid ahead of us and photograph our att...
California, Yosemite Valley. On October 17th David Bryan (age 20) and Michael Harrison (24) were attempting a new route on the Glacier Point Apron. Harrison Jumared to the top of a rope he had fixed previously. The rope was attached by one carabin...
Gangotri Climbs. Two members of a team from Bombay led by Uday Kolwankar climbed Gangotri I (6672 meters, 21,890 feet) in July. Jogin I (6465 meters, 21,210 feet) and Jogin III (6116 meters, 20,065 feet) were climbed on August 21 and Jogin II (631...
Nyabubuya, Northeast Gully, Ruwenzori Group. Our party included Frank Eastwood, David Higgs, Dr. Arnold Pines, Roger Reid, Alan Roberts and me. We climbed Mount Baker, Mount Speke and the four peaks of Mount Stanley. In addition, on July 21 Alan R...
Tetons. During the past summer the following new routes and first ascents were established on the peaks of the Grand Teton National Park.
Mount Shuksan, North Face. Bruce Blume and I made the first winter ascent of this route on December 23, 1975.David Seman
SLIP ON SNOW, INATTENTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LawsonElizabeth N. (45) and John D. climbed Mt. Lawson (2795 meters), a moderate scramble, on July 9, 1994, and were descending a steep, narrow gully in good snow at a...
Momhil Sar Attempt. Our expedition had as members Josep Cla, Joan Córdoba, Joaqim Cufí, Lluis Julià, Dr. Carlos de Mendoza, Francesc Xavier Miquel, Luis Olivas, Joan Ribas, Jordi Tosas and me as leader. We had hoped to climb Momhil Sar (7343 meter...
Diran, North Ridge. The six-man expedition of the Hirosaki University Alpine Club was led by Ken Takahashi. They climbed the north ridge, which had not been climbed before, although Austrians had descended it in 1985. On July 11, Takahashi, Suzuki...
Mount Moran, South Buttress Variation. On August 13, 1965, Peter Cleveland, Roland Fleck, and Jack Stauffer made an important variation on the standard south buttress route. From the second grassy ledge of that route a traverse was made to the wes...
Colorado College Mountain Club. The CCMC experienced a highly successful year thanks to the efforts of enthusiastic members and our president, Laurie Rehnebohm. Notable climbs included the east face of Crestone Needle by Ken and Lester Michaels; K...
Menthosa. Japanese led by Tsuneo Suzuki climbed Menthosa (6444 meters, 21,140 feet) at the end of August. On August 14, Ishikawa and Ms. Miyo Tsuki reached the summit, followed on the 15th by T. Yagihara and I. Mizuro and on the 16th by H. Yawaguc...
Huanacuni, North Ridge, P 5550. Four British climbers who met up in a bar in La Paz climbed Huanacuni (5796 meters) by a new route up the North Ridge to make the second, and first British, ascent of the mountain (June 15-17). Basecamp was then mov...
Waddington Area. During the summer of 1963, a group of Mazamas visited the Coast Range. During three weeks in the area, we climbed the main peak of Waddington and several other peaks. First ascents were made of the northwest ridge of Mount Jeffery...
FALLING ICEUtah, Provo, Stairway to HeavenOn January 4, 1994, M.M. (33) and three companions had hiked to the base of the frozen waterfall called Stairway to Heaven. Small pieces of ice had come down from a large icicle which did not connect at it...
Prospector’s Mountain, North Face, Yellow Jaundice. In June of 1977 Mike Munger and Kent Lugbill made a new route to the left (east) of the Raven Crack and to the right of yellow streaks in the rock wall. This climb of seven leads begins with a mi...
Northern Khwaja Muhammed Range. The Carinthian Hindu Kush expedition consisted of Karl Gritzner, Winfried Pretterebner, Werner Unterlass and Erhard Winkler. After an overland trip to Kabul, they continued over the Salang Pass to Qunduz and Kesem. ...