Seven Summits. Dick Bass and Frank Wells, with Rick Ridgeway. Warner Books, New York, 1986. 336 pages, color photographs. $19.95.The late, and much lamented, Tom Patey, had, as readers of his luminous book, One Man’s Mountains, know, a fine ear fo...
Kyrgyzstan-China border changes. During our journey to the Western Kokshaal-Too reported above, we were surprised to find that sections of the border have been realigned. All current printed maps (Kyrghyzstan, a Climber’s Map and Guide, produced f...
Chachacomani and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. Over the last decade, the American Alpine Institute has been climbing in the Chachacomani region. We returned from June to September in 1994. We have in the past approached from Lago Khara Kkota by fo...
FALL ON ICE—PROBABLY FROM FALLING ROCK, EXCEEDINGABILITIES, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, UNWILLINGNESS TOCHANGE PLANSWyoming, Grand TetonOn August 25, James Stamper (27), Jeffrey Jarvi (34), David Riggs (30), and Thomas Burch (35) established a high cam...
Tukuche Attempt. Four Frenchmen led by Georges Derycke attempted to climb Tukuche (6920 meters, 22,703 feet) by its northwest ridge but had to turn back at 6700 meters on May 27.Elizabeth Hawley
Karka and six other peaks in and near the Chhantir Valley. For the fourth time in 11 years, Franco Brunello led an expedition of the Alpine Club (CAI) Section of Montecchio Maggiore to the Hindu Raj for exploratory mountaineering and trekking. In ...
Ascent of Hidden PeakPeter K. SchoeningThere is something exciting about expeditions. In part it must be the uncertainty of them. Perhaps this is adventure. But for Hidden Peak there was something even more. It could be the last chance for an Amer...
LEWIS L. DELAFIELD1863 - 1944The demise of Lewis Livingston Delafield, our senior ex-president, will be received with especial sadness by older members of the club. Joining our ranks when past the age for active climbing, his innate love of rugged...
You might recall our adventure in the fall of 2008, when we searched for the simplest route from Jag- dula Khola through chaotic gorges to reach Kanjiroba base camp. Following the paths of Tichy and Tyssen, we climbed Dudh Kundali (AAJ 2009). But ...
STRANDED, MISPERCEPTION—ROUTE RESEARCH, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CREATING A HAZARDOUS CONDITIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan ZodiacOn Sunday, June 10, Dan McOmber (26) and Curt Chesney (25) fixed three pitches on the Zodiac (Grade VI) on El...
MakaluGlenn PorzakSPORTING ONE OF the lowest success ratios (20%) of any of the world’s fourteen 8000-meter peaks, Makalu has been a true nemesis for the American Himalayan climber. At 27,825 feet, the fifth highest mountain in the world has been ...
Maoist activity, an overview of the post-monsoon season. Maoist rebels fighting against Nepal’s constitutional monarchy have been earning quite a lot of money by extorting funds from groups of climbers and trekkers. Not all groups have met this pr...
Ascents in the Tres Gemelos Massif, Mendoza. This massif, as well as many others, was visited by Fitz Gerald and the Countess Nadine Von Meyendorff in 1903. On January 8, 1995, Andres Amione and Glauco Muratti ascended Cerro Tres Gemelos (5241 m),...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. In September the club ran an eight-day rock-climbing orientation class for 36 freshmen as part of the Freshman Trips Program at the College. This was our second year running, with two days added to the program as a r...
River Road Area, Various Ascents. Along the River Road (east of Moab), O’Grady (5.12+) was climbed in September by Jay Smith and Kitty Calhoun. This route is just right of Lighthouse Tower above Big Bend Recreation Area. In the same area in Februa...
Jannu Attempt. A three-man Japanese expedition led by Masayuki Shinohara attempted the French route on Jannu (7710 meters, 25,294 feet). All three members reached 24,275 feet on October 20 during a summit push without bivouac equipment. At one P.M...
Tirich Mir, Ascent. It was reported that the French team of Pierre Bouchard and Lionel Boucher made the first French ascent of Tirich Mir on July 27 despite bad weather and deep snow on the lower section of the route. The pair established two camp...
Maine, Mt. Katahdin. (See accident report) Following the second radio contact with Toque Pond, Park Supervisor Taylor dispatched additional rangers, who arrived at Chimney Pond at 8:00 A.M. Two inches of new snow had fallen. This party was told th...
Rignys Bjerg Mountains, Various Ascents. Lying 130 kilometers east-northeast of the Watkins mountains, the Rignys Bjerg ranges have, until 1998, eluded all mountaineering expeditions on the grounds of cost and complex logistics. Covering an area o...
Mt. Huntington, first winter ascent. On March 10,2007, Jed Brown (Fairbanks) and I flew from Talkeetna to the Tokositna Glacier below Mt. Huntington. On March 12 we climbed to the summit of Huntington via the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk) and d...