River Road Area, Various Ascents. Along the River Road (east of Moab), O’Grady (5.12+) was climbed in September by Jay Smith and Kitty Calhoun. This route is just right of Lighthouse Tower above Big Bend Recreation Area. In the same area in Februa...
Jannu Attempt. A three-man Japanese expedition led by Masayuki Shinohara attempted the French route on Jannu (7710 meters, 25,294 feet). All three members reached 24,275 feet on October 20 during a summit push without bivouac equipment. At one P.M...
Tirich Mir, Ascent. It was reported that the French team of Pierre Bouchard and Lionel Boucher made the first French ascent of Tirich Mir on July 27 despite bad weather and deep snow on the lower section of the route. The pair established two camp...
Maine, Mt. Katahdin. (See accident report) Following the second radio contact with Toque Pond, Park Supervisor Taylor dispatched additional rangers, who arrived at Chimney Pond at 8:00 A.M. Two inches of new snow had fallen. This party was told th...
Rignys Bjerg Mountains, Various Ascents. Lying 130 kilometers east-northeast of the Watkins mountains, the Rignys Bjerg ranges have, until 1998, eluded all mountaineering expeditions on the grounds of cost and complex logistics. Covering an area o...
Mt. Huntington, first winter ascent. On March 10,2007, Jed Brown (Fairbanks) and I flew from Talkeetna to the Tokositna Glacier below Mt. Huntington. On March 12 we climbed to the summit of Huntington via the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk) and d...
FALL ON ROCK, DESCENDING UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Edith CavellOn July 17, 1984, two climbers ascended the east ridge of Mount Edith Cavell. They had five years climbing experience, and were equipped with rock climbing equipment and o...
Saltoro Kangri II Attempt. Our expedition, Martin Albanus, leader, Offert Dorka, Fred Bässler and I, had such difficulties with baggage, our liaison officer and flight to Skardu that our time schedule was upset. After ascending the Kondus valley, ...
La Esfinge, The Riddle of the Cordillera Blanca, New Route. On May 1, Todd Offenbacher, Bill Posner and I arrived in Lima, Peru, with the goal of climbing a new route on La Esfinge. Bill Posner traveled with us with the intent of helping us comple...
Annapurna II. A five-man team from Australia, led by Timothy Macartney- Snape climbed Annapurna II by its south face and south spur. They set up Base Camp and Advance Base at 8525 and 12,150 feet on August 19 and 20. Camp I at 16,000 feet, Camp II...
P 12,200, Wrangell-Saint Elias Mountains. On April 23, my wife Siri, Paul and Donna Claus and I made the first ascent of P 12,200, a border peak due west of Mount Logan. Landing at 8400 feet on an unnamed glacier west of our summit, we established...
Gaurishankar Winter Ascent, 1986. Four South Koreans led by Seo Jeong- Bae were on the ridge in the southwest face, previously climbed by Wyman Culbreth and Ang Kami Sherpa in the spring of 1984. On January 16, 1986 Choi Han-Jo and Ang Kami (for h...
World’s Seven Summits by First European Female. Having recently climbed Aconcagua, Frenchwoman Dr. Christine Janin became the second woman, after Japanese Junko Tabei, to ascend successfully the highest points of all seven continents. Her first wa...
Chandra Parvat, Attempt. In 1938, the first Austrian Himalaya Expedition made many ascents in the western Garhwal Himalaya, including the first ascent of Chandra Parvat (6728m), which was climbed via the west ridge by Leo Spannraft and Dr. W. Frau...
Annapurna Dakshin Women s Attempt. Our Yugoslav women’s expedition attempted the nearly five-kilometer-long southwest ridge of Annapurna Dakshin (Annapurna South), which was first climbed in the autumn of 1978 by Japanese after their unsuccessful ...
Kyzylbash Peak, Northeast face, New Route. On August 19-22, a team from Norilsk composed of Anatoly Paveliev (leader), together with Pavelieva Nelia, Sergey Kartsev, Nikolay Koltakov, Rimma Popova, and Natalia Raficova, established a new route on ...
Patagonian Climbing, 1989-1990 Summer. At the end of the season (February 23, 1990), I have little to report. At the end of January, 1990, Italians Paolo Grippa and Eliana de Zordo were avalanche victims and swept into a crevasse below the Torre E...
Kettle Dome, West Face. Fred Beckey, Phil Warrender and I made the first ascent of this route on October 20, 1974; the first technical climb to be established on this small but attractive dome. A long poorly protected crack led us into the center ...
Torre Norte, El Husar de la Muerte. On January 30-31, 2009 Nicolas Gutierrez and I (both Chilean) opened a direct new line on the west side of the North Tower of Paine, north summit. It’s probably the first Chilean route on the three towers of Pai...
Himalayan Expeditions : There are at present several expeditions under weigh, one of which contains several American members. Herr Willi Merkl of Munich left at the end of April with a large party to attempt Nanga Parbat (26,629 feet), the trip ha...