Kangchunne or Kagmara, Kanjiroba Himal. Koji Mizutani was the climbing leader of a five-man-and-a-woman expedition of the Osaka Alpine Club to Kangchunne (also called Kagmara; 21,140 feet). Base Camp was set up on March 28 at 13,850 feet below Lha...
Mount Heyburn, Winter Ascent. On April 4 Louis Stur and I made the first winter ascent of this major Sawtooth peak, using skis to the north saddle and then climbing the west chimney. Although it was cold, the climbing was quite tolerable because t...
Santa Cruz, Southwest Face and West Ridge. Jean-Marc Lang, Bruno Douillet and I climbed the southwest face and upper west ridge of Santa Cruz. (This route coincided with Wells’ only in the very upper part.— Editor.) On August 4 we started up the l...
Nevado San Miguel and Other Peaks. In April 1979, an expedition of the Club Amigos de la Montaña, Salta, climbed San Miguel (c. 5400 meters, 17,717 feet), located south of Nevado del Acay. As expected, archeological remains were located on the sum...
Mercedano, South Face. In the second half or January Héctor A. de la Vega, Cesarino Fava and Fausto Barozzi, Argentines, set out to make the first ascent of the south face of Mercedario (21,884 feet). From a high camp at the foot of the face at 15...
Mount Washington, Southeast Spur. On an extremely hot July day Harvey Schmidt and I forged a new variant of twelve 180-foot leads on this classic alpine spur. Beginning at the moat at the right edge of the prominent buttress, we climbed 2½ pitches...
SAFETY PROGRAMSPacific Northwest. The Mazamas have a rescue group organized to assist in emergencies in all mountainous areas. The Mountaineers, Inc. (Seattle, Everett and Tacoma) give annual training programs in elementary and intermediate climbi...
RAPPEL FAILURE, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Leavenworth Practice CliffsPeggy Stark (49) died Sunday [May 24] of head injuries she suffered Saturday in a rock- climbing accident in Chelan County just southwest of Leavenworth, the King Coun...
P 6447, Near K6. The first ascent of P 6447 (21,152 feet) was made by six members of an eight-man Japanese party led by Akiya Ishimura on August 17. They climbed the north ridge with camps at 15,750, 17,000 and 19,000 feet. The peak is five miles ...
Lhotse, First American Female Ascent. It was reported that on May 26, Christine Feld Boskoff became the first American woman—and second woman ever—to climb Lhotse. She had climbed to Camp IV (7805m) by her husband, Keith Boskoff. After waiting out...
Tombstone Shadow, Big Baldy Dome, Sequoia National Forest. In May, Roy Swafford, Barry Fowlie and I climbed a four-pitch route which starts in a huge left-facing corner on Big Baldy’s south face. Steep but easy climbing up the comer leads to a pit...
Colonel Foster, East Face. The main attraction of this wall is that it is quite likely the largest on Vancouver Island—about 3300 feet high. It was climbed in September by Fred Douglas, Paul Starr and me by a buttress leading to the highest peak o...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEMontana, Glacier National ParkOn October 12, 1983, Ken Lynch (28) and Steve Fernekes (27) were picking their way down from the top of Swiftcurrent Peak Glacier on the north face. They were attempting...
Mount Ghent, Karakoram. An Austrian expedition under the leadership of Erich Waschak reached Base Camp on the Kondus Glacier at 13,750 feet in early May. Camp I (14,750 feet) was on the left lateral moraine of the glacier. On May 10 they establish...
La Schal. Our expedition was made up of Pierre Cier, Dr. Marc Koch, his wife Elisabeth, my wife Francine and me. Our objective was La Schal, near the Hagshu La, a pass which links the Chenab and Doda Rivers. The mountain lies just north of the Bar...
Mt. Hungabee. Guidebook, page 73. Route 3 is given incorrectly. The total height of the rope-off is 130 ft. Thence down S. W. (not S. E.) flank by gullies to a big snow patch, whence Prospectors (not Paradise) Valley is reached a little above Eagl...
Arctowski Peninsula, Port Lockroy/Wiencke Island, Paradise Bay and Cuverville Island, Ascents and Descents. Doug Stoup, Stephen Koch, Hans Saari, Kris Erickson, Rick Armstrong, Jared Stackman and Rick Hunt were on the Antarctic Peninsula for an ex...
Sierra Nevada, California: (1) Twin Peaks (8924 ft.), above Lake Tahoe. On 14 August 1947 a young man from Massachusetts, Emmett Pettit, 23 years old, previously acquainted with a few climbs in the Canadian Rockies, was killed by a fall from a roc...
Navajolands. Although climbing in the Navajo Indian Reservation is still discouraged, it is hoped that selective areas not sacred or near a native dwelling may soon be designated acceptable to ascents with an ecologically sound approach. In 1987 K...
California, Owens Peak. On 19 March, Richard Johnson (18) was starting to climb the Southeast ridge of Owens Peak. Richard was leading a 5.8- 5.9 layback perhaps 55 feet high. His belayer was sitting on the soft sand at the base of the cliff. Rich...