On March 7, three climbers were climbing the left line of Louise Falls (II WI4+). The temperature in the Lake Louise area had been at around zero degrees C, then dropped to -26 degrees C in the couple of days before March 7. The lead climber had l...
Everest Winter Ascent and Tragedy. Yasuo Kato, 33, was lost on Everest after becoming the first climber to reach the summit in a winter, solo attempt. His partner, Toshiaki Kobayashi, 34, who was following with bivouac supplies and met Kato just b...
Mt. Red Beard, West Ridge. In early May Jamal Lee-Elkin and I, unable to fly into the Hayes Range because of uncooperative weather, flew into the Yentna Glacier south of Mt. Foraker. The Yentna is a relatively unvisited area, probably because the ...
Mount Herschel, Cape Hallett. The members of our party were all experienced mountaineers: Sir Edmund Hillary, leader, N. D. Hardie, Dr. H. J. Harrington, G. Hancox, M. R. Ellis, M. White, Dr. M. Gill, Dr. P. Strang and B. Jenkinson. On October 21,...
The Diluter-Demand Oxygen SystemUsed During the International Himalayan Expedition to Mount EverestF. DUANE BLUME AND NELLO PACEIN 1969 the White Mountain Research Station, University of California Berkeley, was asked by Barry Hagen to assist with...
In June, Jared Ogden and I completed the North Shore (5.11+), a new route on the northwest face of the Big Island. The Big Island is a huge flat-topped formation off Cross Fissures Overlook. The climb follows an invisible line on excellent rock ...
Footprints on the Peaks: Mountaineering in China. Zhou Zheng and Liu Zhenkai. Cloudcap Press, Seattle, Washington, 1995. $30.00.Footprints on the Peaks is a long-overdue and badly-needed counterweight to a decidedly Anglo-centric view of the histo...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face. Nanga Parbat (26,660 feet) has now been climbed three times, each time by an expedition led by Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer and each time by a different route. Each ascent has been followed by the most awesome dissent bet...
Kamet and Abi Gamin. In 1982 the Indian Military Academy completed fifty years of its existence. As a part of the Golden Jubilee, a commemorative expedition, led by me and consisting of its alumni past and present, was organized to scale Kamet and...
From the Sea to P 12,300Walter R. Gove and William PillingAPPROACHED FROM THE WEST, the northern Fairweather Range rises out of the Pacific Ocean. Paralleling the shoreline is an old terminal moraine which acts as a natural dam that forms a large ...
Mix-up Peak, The Misunderstanding. On October 25 Forest McBrian, Dave Jordan, and I established a new line on Mix-up Peak in North Cascades National Park. The route, which climbs the northeast face of the north summit, is partially visible from Ca...
The Peaks of the Lailak Ak-Su Valley. While there has been a recent surge in publicity about the Karavshin Ak-Su Valley, fewer American climbers are aware of the alpine rock walls of the Lailak Ak-Su Valley. We here print a number of photos of the...
Attempt on Huantsán, Ascents of Yahuarraju, Santa Cruz Norte, and Other Peaks, Cordillera Blanca. The expedition of the Nagano branch of the All-Japan Mountaineering Association was led by Eiichi Murai, with Yasuo Yokochi as deputy leader, and com...
Mt. Alverstone, west face. In early May Simon Yates and I climbed a new route on the 6,000 west face of Mt. Alverstone (14,565'/4,439m). We knew very little about the mountain, except that the west face was huge, and apparently only two routes had...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCKWyoming, TetonsOn July 4, Greg Smith and Melissa Malm (28) were climbing a route on Prospectors’ Mountain (3370 meters) named the “Upper Northeast Face” (II, F6).Around 1430 at the 3150-meter level, Smith led a traversing...
Cerro de las Cuevas. Ancient and Modern Ascents. Searching for the legendary Inca “city” of Aconquija, an expedition of the Club Andino Mercedario (San Juan, Argentina) travelled to Concepción in Tucumán Province, reached the junction of the river...
Guide to the John Muir Trail and the High Sierra Region, by Walter A. Starr, Jr. Fourth edition, xii+130 pages, with a foreword by Francis P. Farquhar, map in pocket at back. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1951.In a Prefatory Note, David R. Brower, C...
Two First Ascents in the Bolivian AndesJoseph P. PremIN Bolivia1 the Cordillera de los Andes that stretches through thewhole continent of South America reaches its greatest width, although not its greatest height. It consists essentially of the We...
Snow Dome, The Real Ice Porn to serac band. On October 13 Dana Ruddy, Cory Richards, and I climbed a waterfall ice route (800m, WI 5+) on the north face of Snow Dome. It is the fifth route on Snow Dome, and the first on the north face proper, arou...
Life Is Meeting by John Hunt (Lord Hunt of Llanfair Waterdine).London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1978. 286 pages, 28 photographs and11 maps. Price £ 6.95.This book tells the story of how John Hunt has managed to combine outstanding mountaineering with...